The Westover manuscripts: containing the history of the dividing line betwixt Virginia and North Carolina; a journey to the land of Eden, A.D. 1733; and a progress to the mines

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THE

WESTOVER MANUSCRIPTS:

CONTAINING

THE HISTORY OF THE DIVIDING LINE

BETWIXT VIRGINIA AND NORTH CAROLINA, ^t T^

A JOURNEY TO THE LAND OF EDE,N«5^kr^g<^733 ;

AND

A PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

WRITTEN FROM 1218 TO mii, AND N04V FIRST PUBLISUED.

BY WILLIAM BYRD,

OP WESTOVER.

PETERSBURG :
I'RINTED BY EDMUND AND .IHLIAN ('. KUFKIN.

18dl

A'

< \\

Entered, according to act of congress, in the year 1841, by Edmund Rdffin, in the
Clerk's office of the District Court of the Eastern District of Virginia.

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EDITOR'S PREFACE.

The manuscripts of Col. William Byrd, of Westover, the father of the last
proprietor of the same name, of different dates from 1728 to 1736, are con-
tained in a large folio volume bound in parchment, which has been carefully
preserved in his family, until recently placed in the hands of the editor. The
whole is in the hand-writing of a copyist, but written evidently under the
immediate direction of its author, as there are numerous corrections, inter-
lineations, and more considerable additions, in his own hand-writing. The
book was doubtless copied exactly from the author's earliest draught on loose
sheets, which were afterwards destroyed, as useless. At any rate, this old
volume is the only copy in existence. The Historical Society of Virginia
obtained the consent of the proprietor of the manuscripts to have them
copied, with a view to publication. But the operations of that society ceased
before the publication had been commenced, and when only one of the seve-
ral manuscripts had been copied. It was one of the latest acts of the last
proprietor, George E. Harrison, Esq., of Brandon, to place at our disposal
this highly valued work of his distinguished and talented ancestor, with per-
mission to publish any portion, or the whole of the contents, provided the
manuscript volume itself should be preserved uninjured, and afterwards re-
stored to the owner. The better to secure the latter object, the copy of the
part made for the use of the Historical Society, has also been placed in our
hands by the directors.

The manuscripts offer abundant internal evidence that they were written
merely for the amusement of the author, and for the perusal of his family
and friends, and not with any view to their being printed. This adds much
to their other and important value. For there prevails throughout, as in the
private letters of an accomplished writer, a carelessness in the mode of ex-
pression, and a manifest freedom from all restraint, W'hich together serve to
render subjects pleasing and interesting, that, however worthy of consider-
ation, would be dry and tedious if the writer had sought for the applause, or
feared the censure, of the reading public. The author was a man "too
proud to be vain," and who neither cared for, nor thougiit of seeking, public
applause for his writings. The influence of that first feeling, and its results,
naturally operated on his children and later descendants, to deter them also
from pul)lishing the manuscripts; and this course, besides being in con-
formity with the writer's intention, was perhaps deemed the more proper,
because of his great freedom of expression, and of censure, often tinctured
by his strong "church and state" principles and prejudices, and which might
have given offence to some of the individuals or classes wiio were the sub-
jects of his free remarks. But at this late time, there no longer remains, if
there existed before, any reason f(>r withiiolding these interesting writings
from the public. And there is no free expression of even the prejudiced and
erroneous opinions of the writer, which, to an intelligcMit and liberal-minded
reader, would now give offence. Col. Byrd was a true and worthy inheritor
of the opinions and feelings of the old cavaliers of Nirj^inia ; and it is because
from such a souri-e, as well as being designed at fust as private and I'onli-
denlial, tli;il his writings sliouM he nou considtM'cd.

IV

PREFACE.

Col. William Byrd died where he had long lived, at his then beautifully
decorated and princely mansion, Westover, on the north bank of James
river; and which even at this late day exhibits admirable remains of his
taste, and his magnificent sc^ of expenditure for its gratification. His body
was buried in the garden, and his grave is covered by a monument of white
marble, on which is the following inscription :

[on the north side.]

Here lieth

The Honorable William Byrd, Esq.,

Being born to one of the amplest fortunes in this country.

He was sent early to England for his education ;

Where, under the care and direction of Sir Robert Southwell,

And ever favoured with his particular instructions.

He made a happy proficiency in polite and various learning.

By the means of the same noble friend.

He was introduced to the acquaintance of many of the first persons of that age

For knowledge, wit, virtue, birth, or high station,

And particularly contracted a most intimate and bosom friendship

With the learned and illustrious Charles Boyle, Earl of Orrery.

He was called to the bar in the Middle Temple,

Studied for some time in the Low Countries,

Visited the court of France,
And was chosen Fellow of the Royal Society.

[on the south side.]

Thus eminently fitted for the service and ornament of his country,

He was made receiver general of his majesty's revenues here,

Was thrice appointed public agent to the court and ministry of England,

And being thirty-seven years a member.

At last became president of the council of this colony.

To all this were added a great elegancy of taste and life, ?

The well-bred gentleman and polite companion,

The splendid economist and prudent father of a family,

With the constant enemy of all exorbitant power.

And hearty friend to the Uberties of his country.

Nat. Mar. 28, 1674. Mort. Aug. 26, 1744. An. eetat. 70.

HISTORY

THE DIVIDING LINE:

RUN IN THE YEAR 1728.

Before I enter upon the journal of the Ime between Virginia and North
Carolina, it will be necessary to clear the way to it, by showing how the other
British colonies on the Main have, one after another, been carved out of
Virginia, by grants from his majesty's royal predecessors. All that part of
the northern American continent now under the dominion of the king of
Great Britain, and stretching quite as far as the cape of Florida, went at first
under the general name of Virginia.

The only distinction, in those early days, was, that all the coast to the
southward of Chesapeake bay was called South Virginia, and all to the
northward of it. North Virginia.

The first settlement of this fine country was owing to that great ornament
of the British nation, sir Walter Raleigh, who obtained a grant thereof from
queen Elizabeth of ever-glorious memory, by letters patent, dated March
the 25th, 1584.

But whether that gentleman ever made a voyage thither himself is uncer-
tain ; because those who have favoured the public with an account of his life
mention nothing of it. However, thus much may be depended on, that sir
Walter invited sundry persons of distinction to share in his charter, and join
their purses with his in the laudable project of fitting out a colony to Virginia.

Accordingly, two ships were sent away that very year, under the command
of his good friends Amidas and Barlow, to take iiossession of the country in
the name of his royal mistress, the queen of England.

These worthy commanders, for the advantage of the trade winds, shaped
their course first to tl^e Charibbe islands, thence stretching away by the
gulf of Florida, dropped anchor not far from Roanoke inlet. They ventured
ashore near that place upon an island now called Colleton island, where they
set up the arms of England, and claimed the adjacent country in right of their
sovereign lady, the queen; and this ceremony being duly performed, they
kindly invited the neighbouring Indians to tratfick with them.

These poor people at tir.st approached the English with icreat caution, hav-
ing heard much of the treachery of thr Spaniards, and not knowing but these
strangers might be as trcarliorous as they. But, ;it !(Migtli, discovorinir a kind
of good nature in tlieir looks, they ventured to draw near, and barter their
skins aiid furs for the bawblcs and trinkets of the l^nglish.

The.se first adventurers m.idc a very profitable voyage, raising at least a
thousand per cent, upon tlieir cargo. Amongst other Indian commodities,

2 THE HISTORY OF

tliey brought over some of that bewitching vegetable, tobacco. And this be-
ing tlie first that ever came to England, sir Walter thought he could do no
less than make a present of some of the brightest of it to his royal mistress,
for her own smoking. The queen graciously accepted of it, but finding her
stomach sicken after two or three whiffs, it was presently whispered by the
earl of Leicester's faction, that sir Walter had certainly poisoned her. But
her majesty soon recovering her disorder, obliged the countess of Notting-
ham and all her maids to smoke a whole pipe out amongst them.

As it happened some ages before to be the fashion to saunter to the Holy
Land, and go upon other Quixote adventures, so it was now grown the hu-
mour to take a trip to America. The Spaniards had lately discovered rich
mines in their part of the West Indies, which made their maritime neigh-
bours eager to do so too. This modish frenzy being still more inflamed by
the charming account given of Virginia, by the first adventurers, made many
fond of removing to such a paradise.

Happy was he, and still happier she, that could get themselves transported,
fondly expecting their coarsest utensils, in that happy place, would be of
massy silver.

This made it easy for the company to procure as many volunteers as they
wanted for their new colony; but, like most other undertakers who have no
assistance from the public, ttiey starved the design by too much frugality ; for,
unwilling to launch out at first into too much expense, they shipped off but
few people at a time, and those but scantily provided. The adventurers
were, besides, idle and extravagant, and expected they might live without
work in so plentiful a country.

These wretches were set ashore not far from Roanoke inlet, but by some
fatal disagreement, or laziness, were either starved or cut to pieces by the
Indians.

Several repeated misadventures of this kind did, for some time, allay the
itch of sailing to this new world ; but the distemper broke out again about
the year 1606. Then it happened that the earl of Southampton and several
other persons, eminent for their quality and estates, were invited into the
company, who applied themselves once more to people tlie then almost aban-
doned colony. For tliis purpose they embarked about a hundred men, most
of them reprobates of good families, and related to some of the company,
who were men of quality and fortune.

The ships that carried them made a shift to find a more direct way to Vir-
ginia, and ventured through the capes into the bay of Chesapeake. The
same night they came to an anchor at the mouth of Powhatan, the same as
James river, where they built a small fort at a place called Point Comfort.

This settlement stood its ground from that time forward in spite of all the
blunders and disagreement of the first adventurers, and the many calamities
that befel the colony afterwards.*

* The six "-611116111011 who were first named of the company by the crown, and who were
empowered to choose an annual president from among tiiemselves, were always engaged in
factions and quarrels, while the rest detested work more than famine. At this rate the
colony must have come to nothing, had it not been for the vigilance and bravery of captain
Smith, who struck a terror into all the Indians round about. This gentleman took some
pains to persuade the men to plant Indian corn, but they looked upon all labour as a curse.
They chose rather to depend upon the musty provisions that were sent from England : and
when they failed they were foiced to take more pains to seek for wild Iruits in the woods,
than they would have taken in tilling the ground. Besides, this exposed them to be
knocked on the head by the Indians, and gave them fluxes info the bargain, which thinned
the plantation very much. To supply this mortality, they were reinforced the year follow-
ing with a greater number of people, amongst which were fewer gentlemen and more la-
bourers, who, however, took care not to kill themselves with work.

THE DIVIDING LINE-

3

Tl)ese found tlie first adventurers in a very starving condition, but relieved
their wants with the fresh supply they brought with them. From Kiquotan
they extended tliemselves as tar as James-town, where, hke ti'ue English-
men, they built a church that cost no more than fifty pounds, and a tavern
that cost five hundred.

They had now made peace with the Indians, but there was one thing want-
ing to make that peace lasting. The natives could, by no means, persuade
themselves that the English were heartily their friends, so long as they dis-
dained to intermarry with them. And, in earnest, had the English consulted
their own security and the good of the colony — had they intended either to
civilize or convert these gentiles, they would have brought their stomachs to
embrace this prudent alliance.

The Indians are generally tall and well-proportioned, which may make full
amends for the darkness of their complexions. Add to this, that they are
healthy and strong, with constitutions untainted by lewdness, and not en-
feebled by luxury. Besides, morals and all considered, I cannot think the
Indians were much greater heathens than the first adventurers, who, had
they been good Christians, would have had the charity to take this only
method of converting the natives to Christianity. For, after all that can be
said, a sprightly lover is the most prevailing missionary that can be sent
amongst these, or any other infidels.

Besides, the poor Indians would have had less reason to complain that the
English took away their land, if they had received it by way of portion
with their daughters. Had such affinities been contracted in the begin-
ning, how much bloodshed had been prevented, and how populous would
the country have been, and, consequently, how considerable'? Nor would
the shade of the skin have been any reproach at this day ; for if a Moor may
be washed white in three generations, surely an Indian might have been
blanched in two.

The French, for their parts, have not been so squeamish in Canada, who
upon trial find abundance of attraction in the Indians. Their late grand
monarch thought it not below even the dignity of a Frenchman to become
one flesh with this people, and therefore ordered 100 livres for any of his sub-
jects, man or woman, that would intermarry with a native.

By this piece of policy we find the French interest very much strengthened
amongst the savages, and their religion, such as it is, propagated just as far .
as their love. And I heartily wish this well-concerted scheme does not here-
after give the French an advantage over his majesty's good subjects on the
northern continent of America.

About the same time New England was pared off' from Virginia by letters
patent, bearing date April the 10th, IGOS. Several gentiemon of the town
and neighborhood of Plymouth obtained this grant, with the lord chief
justice Pojiham at their head.

Their bounds were si^cified to extend from 38 to 4C) degrees of northern
latitude, with a breadth of one hundred miles from the sea shore. The first
fourteen year.s, this company encountered many difficulties, and lost many
men, though far from being discouraged, they sent over numerous recruits of
Presbyterians, every year, who for all that, had much ado to stand their
ground, with all their fighting and praying.

But about the year l(')2(), a largo swarm of dissenters fled thither from the
severities of their .stepmother, the clunch. These saints conceiving the same
aversion to the copper comploxion ot the native.^:, with that of the first ad-
venturers to Virginia, would, on no terms, contract alliances with them, afraid
perhaps, like the .lews ol old, Icsl they nii;j;hl br drawn into idolatry by those
strange women.

4 THE HISTORY OF

Whatever disgusted them I cannot say, but this false delicacy creating in
the Indians a jealousy that the English were ill affected towards them, was
the cause that many of them were cut off, and the rest exposed to various
distresses.

This reinforcement was landed not far from cape Cod, where, for their
greater security, they built a fort, and near it a small town, which, in honour
of the proprietors, was called New Plymouth. But they still had many dis-
couragements to struggle with, though, by being well supported from home,
they by degrees triumphed over them all.

Their brethren, after this, flocked over so fast, that in a few years they ex-
tended the settlement one hundred miles along the coast, including Rhode
Island and Martha's Vineyard.

Thus the colony throve apace, and was thronged with large detachments of
independents and presbyterians, who thought themselves persecuted at home.

Though these people may be ridiculed for some pharisaical particularities
in their worship and behaviour, yet they were very useful subjects, as bemg
frugal and industrious, giving no scandal or bad example, at least by any
open and public vices. By which excellent qualities they had much the ad-
vantage of the southern colony, who thought their being members of the
established church sufficient to sanctify very loose and profligate morals.
For this reason New England improved much faster than Virginia, and in
seven or eight years New Plymouth, like Switzerland, seemed too narrow a
territory for its inhabitants.

For this reason, several gentlemen of fortune purchased of the company
that canton of New England now called Massachusetts colony. And king
James confirmed the purchase by his royal charter, dated March the 4th,
1628. In less than two years after, above one thousand of the puritanical
sect removed thither with considerable effects, and these were followed by
such crowds, that a proclamation was issued in England, forbidding any
more of his majesty's subjects to be shipped off. But this had the usual effect
of things forbidden, and served only to make the wilful independents flock
over the faster. And about this time it was that Messrs. Hampden and Pym,
and (some say) Oliver Cromwell, to show how little they valued the king's
authority, took a trip to New England.

In the year 1630, the famous city of Boston was built, in a commodious
situation for trade and navigation, the same being on a peninsula at the bot-
tom of Massachusetts bay.

This town is now the most considerable of any on the British continent,
containing at least 8,000 houses and 40,000 inhabitants. The trade it drives,
is very great to Europe, and to every part of the West Indies, having near
1,000 ships and lesser vessels belonging to it.

Although the extent of the Massachusetts colony reached near one hundred
and ten miles in length, and half as much in breadth, yet many of its inhabit-
ants, thinking they wanted elbow room, quitted their old seats in the year
1636, and formed two new colonies: that of Connecticut and New Haven.
These king Charles II. erected into one government in 1664, and gave them
many valuable privileges, and among the rest, that of choosing their own
governors. The extent of these united colonies may be about seventy miles
long and fifty broad.

Besides these several settlements, there sprang up still another, a little more
northerly, called New Ha*^.pshire. But that consisting of no more than two
counties, and not being in condition to support the charge of a distinct go-
vernment, was glad to be incorporated with that of Massachusetts, but upon
condition, however, of being named in all public acts, for fear of being quite
lost and forgotten in the coalition.

THE DIVIDING LINE. 5

In like manner New Plymouth joined itself to Massachusetts, except only-
Rhode Island, which, though of small extent, got itself erected into a sepa-
rate government by a charter from king Charles II., soon after the restoration,
and continues so to this day.

These governments all continued in possession of their respective rights
and privileges till the year 1683, when that of Massachusetts was made void
in England by a quo warranto.

In consequence of which the king was pleased to name sir Edmund
Andros his first governor of that colony. This gentleman, it seems, ruled
them with a rod of iron till the revolution, when they laid unhallowed hands
upon him, and sent him prisoner to England.

This undutiful proceeding met with an easy forgiveness at that happy
juncture. King William and his royal consort were not only pleased to over-
look this indignity offered to their governor, but being made sensible how
unfairly their charter had been taken away, most graciously granted them a
new one.

By this some new franchises were given them, as an equivalent for those
of coining money and electing a governor, which were taken away. How-
ever, the other colonies of Connecticut and Rhode Island had the luck to
remain in possession of their original charters, which to this day have never
been called in question.

The next country dismembered from Virginia was New Scotland, claimed
by the crown of England in virtue of the first discovery by Sebastian Cabot.
By colour of this title, king James I. granted it to sir William Alexander by
patent, dated September the 10th, 1621.

But this patentee never sending any colony thither, and the French believ-
ing it very convenient for them, obtained a surrender of it from their good
friend and ally, king Charles II., by the treaty of Breda. And, to show their
gratitude, they stirred up the Indians soon after to annoy their neighliours of
New England. Murders happened continually to his majesty's subjects by
their means, till sir William Phipps took their town of Port Royal, in the year
1690. But as the English are better at taking than keeping strong places,
the French retook it soon, and remained masters of ft till 1710, when general
Nicholson wrested it, once more, out of their hands.

Afterwards the queen of Great Britain's right to it was recognized and
confirmed by the treaty of Utrecht.

Another limb lopped off from Virginia was New York, which the Dutch
seized very unfairly, on pretence of having purchased it from captain Hudson,
the first discoverer. Nor was their way of taking possession of it a whit
more justifiable than their pretended title. Their West India company tam-
pered with some \\T)rthy English skippers (Svho had contracted with a swarm
of English dissenters to transport them to Hudson river) by no means to land
them there, but to carry them some leagues more northerly.

This Dut(>h finesse took exactly, and gave the company time soon after
to seize Hudson river for themselves. 13ut sir Samuel Argall, then governor
of Virginia, understanding how the king's subjects had been abused by these
republicans, marched thither with a good force, and obliged them to renounce
all pretensions to that country. The worst of it was, the knight depended
on their parole to ship themselves for Brrzii, but took no measures to make
this slippery people as good as tlieir word.

No sooner was the good governor retired, l)ut the honest Dutch began to
build forts and strengtiien tiiemselves in their ill-gotten possessions; nor did
any of the king's liege people take the trouble to drive these intruders thence.
The civil war in Kngland, and the confiisions it brought forth, allowed no lei-
sure for such distant considerations. Though it is strange (hfit (he protector,
^^ B

Q THE HISTORY OF

who neglected no occasion to mortify the Dutch, did not afterwards call them
to account for this breach of faith. However, after the restoration, the king
sent a squadron of his ships of war, under the command of sir Robert Carr,
and reduced that province to his obedience.

Some time after, his majesty was pleased to grant that country to his royal
highness, the duke of York, by letters patent, dated March the 12th, 1664.
But to show the modesty of the Dutch to the life, though they had no shadow
of right to New York, yet they demanded Surinam, a more valuable country,
as an equivalent for it, and our able ministers at that time had the generosity
to give it them.

But what wounded Virginia deepest was the cutting off Maiyland from it,
by charter from king Charles I. to sir George Calvert'i afterwards lord Balti-
more, bearing date the 20th of June, 1632. The truth of it is, it begat much
speculation in those days, how it came about that a good protestant king
should bestow so bountiful a grant upon a zealous Roman catholic. But it is
probable it was one fatal instance amongst many other of his majesty's com-
plaisance to the queen.

However that happened, it is certain this province afterwards proved a
commodious retreat for persons of that communion. The memory of the
gunpowder treason-plot was still fresh in every body's mind, and made Eng-
land too hot for papists to live in, without danger of being burnt with the
pope, every 5th of November; for which reason legions of them transplanted
themselves to Maryland in order to be safe, as well from the insolence of the
populace as the rigour of the government.

Not only the gunpowder treason, but every other plot, both pretended and
real, that has been trumped up in England ever since, has helped to people his
lordship's propriety. But what has proved most serviceable to it was the grand
rebellion against king Charles L, when every thing that bore the least tokens
of popery was sure to be demolished, and every man that professed it was in
jeopardy of suffering the same kind of martyrdom the Romish priests do in
Sweden.

Soon after the reduction of ISiew York, the duke was pleased to grant out
of it all that tract of land included between Hudson and Delaware rivers, to
the lord Berkley and sir George Carteret, by deed dated June the 24th, 1664.
And when these grantees came to make partition of this territory, his lord-
ship's moiety was called West Jersey, and that to sir George, East Jersey.

But before the date of this grant, the Swedes began to gain footing in part
of that country ; though, after they saw the fate of New York, tliey were
glad to submit to the king of England, on the easy terms of remaining in their
possessions, and rendering a moderate quit-rent. Their posterity continue
there to this day, and think their lot cast in a much fairer land than Dalicarlia.

The proprietors of New Jersey, finding more trouble than profit in their
new dominions, made over their right to several other persons, who obtained
a fresh grant from his royal highness, dated March the 14th, 1682.

Several of the grantees, being quakers and anabaptists, failed not to en-
courage many of their own persuasion to remove to this peaceful region.
Amongst them were a swarm of Scots quakers, who were not tolerated to
exercise the gifts of the spirit in their own country.

Besides the hopes of being safe from persecution in this retreat, the new
proprietors inveigled many over by this tempting account of the country:
that it was a place free from those three great scourges of mankind, priests,
lawyers, and physicians. Nor did they tell them a word of a lie, for the peo-
ple were yet too poor to maintain these learned gentlemen, who, every where,
love to be well paid for what they do ; and, like the Jews, cannot breathe in a
climate where nothing is to be gotten.

THE DIVIDING LINE. 7

The Jerseys continued under the government of these proprietors till
the year 1702, when they made a formal surrender of the dominion to the
queen, reserving however the property of the soil to themselves. So soon as
the bounds of New Jersey came to be distinctly laid off, it appeared there was
still a narrow slip of land, lying betwixt that colony and Maryland. Of this,
William Penn, a man of much worldly wisdom, and some eminence among
the quakers, got early notice, and, by the credit he had with the duke of York,
obtained a patent for it, dated March the 4th, 1680.

It was a little surprising to some people how a quaker should be so much
in the good graces of a popish prince ; though, after all, it may be pretty
well accounted for. This ingenious person had not been bred a quaker ; but,
in his earlier days, had been a man of pleasure about the town. He had
a beautiful form and very taking address, which made him successful with
the ladies, and particularly with a mistress of the duke of Monmouth. By
this gentlewoman he had a daughter, who had beauty enough to raise her to
be a dutchess, and continued to be a toast full 30 years. But this amour had
like to have brought our fine gentleman in danger of a duel, had he not dis-
creetly sheltered himself under tliis peaceable persuasion. Besides, his father
having been a fiag-officer in the navy, while the duke of York was lord high
admiral, might recommend the son to his favour. This piece of secret history
I thought proper to mention, to wipe off the suspicion of his having been
popishly inclined.

This gentleman's first grant confined him within pretty narrow bounds,
giving him only that portion of land which contains Buckingham, Philadel-
phia and Chester counties. But to get these bounds a little extended, he
pushed his interest still further with his royal highness, and obtained a fresh
grant of the three lower counties, called Newcastle, Kent and Sussex, which
still remained within the New York patent, and had been luckily left out of
the grant of New Jersey. The six counties being thus incorporated, the pro-
prietor dignified the whole with the name of Pennsylvania.

The quakers flocked over to this country in shoals, being averse to go to
heaven the same way with the bishops. Amongst them were not a few of
good substance, who went vigorously upon every kind of improvement ; and
thus much I may truly say in their praise, that by diligence and frugality, for
which this harmless sect is remarkable, and by having no vices but such as
are private, they have in a few years made Pennsylvania a very fine country.
The truth is, they have observed exact justice v/ith all the natives that border
upon them ; they have purchased all their lands from the Indians ; and though
they paid but a trifle for them, it has procured them the credit of being more
righteous than their neighbours. They have likewise had the prudence to
treat them kindly upon all occasions, which has saved them from many wars
and massacres wherein the other colonies have been indiscreetly involved.
The truth of it is, a people whose principles forbid them to draw the carnal
sword, were in the right to give no provocation.

Both the French and Spaniards had, in the name of their respective mon-
archs, long ago taken possession of that part of the northern continent that
now goes by the name of Carolina ; but finding it produced neither gold nor
silver, as they greedily expected, and meeting such returns from the Indians
as their own cruelty and treachery deserved, they totally abandoned it. In
this deserted condition that country lay for the space of ninety years, till king
Charles II., finding it a derelict, granted it away to the earl of (""larendon and
others, by his royal charter, dated March the 24(11. 1003. The boundary of
that grant towards Virginia was a due west lino frnm Lurk island, (the same
as Colleton i.sland,) lying in 'i6 degrees of north latitude, quite to the
South sea.

8

THE HISTORY OF

But afterwards sir William Berkley, who was one of the grantees and at
that time governor of Virginia, finding a territory of 31 miles in breadth
between the inhabited part of Virginia and the above-mentioned boundary of
Carolina, advised the lord Clarendon of it. And his lordship had interest
enough with the king to obtain a second patent to include it, dated June the
30th,°1665.

This last grant describes the bounds between Virginia and Carolina in
these words : " To run from the north end of Coratuck inlet, due west to
Weyanoke creek, lying within or about the degree of thirty-six and thirty
minutes of northern latitude, and from thence west, in a direct line, as far as
the South sea." Without question, this boundary was well known at the
time the charter was granted, but in a long course of years Weyanoke creek
lost its name, so thaf it became a controversy where it lay. Some ancient
persons in Virginia affirmed it was the same with Wicocon, and others again
in Carolina were as positive it was Nottoway river.

In the mean time, the people on the frontiers entered for land, and took out
patents by guess, either from the king or the lords proprietors. But the
crown was like to be the loser by this uncertainty, because the terms both of
taking up and seating land were easier much in Carolina. The yearly taxes
to the public were likewise there less burthensome, which laid Virginia under
a plain disadvantage.

This consideration put that government upon entering into mea.sures with
North Carolina, to terminate the dispute, and settle a certain boundary be-
tween the two colonies. All the difficulty was, to find out which was truly
Weyanoke creek. The difference was too considerable to be given up by
either side, there being a territory of fifteen miles betwixt the two streams in
controversy.

However, till that matter could be adjusted, it was agreed on both sides,
that no lands at all should be granted within the disputed bounds. Virginia
observed this agreement punctually, but I am sorry I cannot say the same of
North Carolina^ The great officers of that province were loath to lose the
fees accruing from the grants of land, and so private interest got the better
of public spirit ; and I wish that were the only place in the world where such
politics are fashionable.

All the steps that were taken afterwards in that affair, will best appear by
the report of the Virginia commissioners, recited in the order of council
given at St. James', March the 1st, 1710, set down in the appendix.

It must be owned, the report of those gentlemen was severe upon the then
commissioners of North Carolina, and particularly upon Mr. Moseley. I vnW
not take it upon me to say with how much justice they said so many hard
things, though it had been fairer play to have given the parties accused a
copy of such representation, that they might have answered what they could
for themselves.

But since that was not done, I must beg leave to say thus much in behalf
of Mr. Moseley, that he was not much in the wTong to find fault with the
quadrant produced by the surveyors of Virginia, because that instrument
placed the mouth of Nottoway river in the latitude of 37 degrees ; whereas,
by an accurate observation made since, it appears to lie in 36° 30' 30", so
that there was an error of near 30 minutes, either in the instrument or in
those who made use of it.

Besides, it is evident the mouth of Nottoway river agrees much better with
the latitude, wherein the Carolina charter supposed Weyanoke creek, (namely,
in or about 36^ 30',) than it does with Wicocon creek, which is about fifteen
miles more southerly.

This being manifest, the intention of the king's grant will be pretty exactly

THE DIVIDING LINE. 9

answered, by a due west line drawn from T'oratuck inlet to the mouth oj
Nottoway river, for which reason it is probable that was formerly called
Weyanoke creek, and might change its name when the Nottoway Indians
came to live upon it, which was since the date of the last Carolina charter.

The lieutenant governor of Virginia, at that time colonel Spotswood,
searching into the bottom of this affair, made very equitable proposals to Mr.
Eden, at that time governor of North Carolina, in order to put an end to this
controversy. These, being formed into preliminaries, were signed by both
governors, and transmitted to England, where they had the honour to be rati-
fied by his late majesty and assented to by the lords proprietors of Carolina.

Accordingly an order was sent by the late king to Mr. Gooch, afterwards
lieutenant governor of Virginia, to pursue those preliminaries exactly. In
obedience thereunto, he was pleased to appoint three of the council of that
colony to be commissioners on the part of Virginia, who, in conjunction with
others to be named by the governor of North Carolina, were to settle the
boundary between the two governments, upon the plai; of the above-men-
tioned articles.

February, 1728. Two experienced surveyors were at the same time di-
rected to wait upon the commissioners, Mr. Mayo, who made the accurate
map of Barbadoes, and Mr. Irvin, the mathematic professor of William and
Mary College. And because a good number of men were to go upon this
expedition, a chaplain was appointed to attend them, and the rather because
the people on the frontiers of North Carolina, who have no minister near
them, might have an opportunity to get themselves and their children baptized.

Of these proceedings on our part, immediate notice was sent to sir Richard
Everard, governor of North Carolina, who was desired to name commission-
ers for that province, to meet those of Virginia at Coratuck inlet the spring
following. Accordingly he appointed four members of the council of that
province to take care of the interests of the lords proprietors. Of these, Mr.
Moseley was to serve in a double capacity, both as commissioner and sur-
veyor. For that reason there was but one other surveyor from thence, Mr.
Swan. All the persons being thus agreed upon, they settled the time of
meeting to be at Coratuck, March the 5th, 1728.

In the mean time, the requisite preparations were made for so long and
tiresome a journey ; and because there was much work to be done and some
danger from the Indians, in the uninhabited part of the country, it was neces-
sary to provide a competent number of men. Accordingly, seventeen able
hands were listed on the part of Virginia, who were most of them Indian
traders and expert woodsmen.

Feb. 27th. These good men were ordered to come armed with a musket
and a tomahawk, or large hatchet, and ]irovided with a sufficient quantity of
ammunition. They likewise brought provisions of their own for ten days,
after which time they were to be fiu-nished by the government. Their maiTh
was appointed to be on the 27th of February, on which day one of the coni-
missioners met them at their rendezvous, and proceeded with them as far as
colonel Allen's. This gentleman is a great economist, and skilled in ail the
arts of living well at an easy expense.

28th. They proceeded in good order through Surry county, as far as the
widow Allen's, who had copied Solomon's complete housewife exactly. At
this gentlewoman's house, the other two commissioners had appointed to join
them, but were detained by some accident at Williamsburg, longer than their
appointment.

29th. They pursued their march through the Isle of Wight, and observed
a most dreadful havoc made by a late liurricnnc, which happened in .Antrusf,
1720. The vifdcnce of i( Imd ni)( reiiched .-liiovc a (juarler of a rni!(> in

10 THE HISTORY OF

breadth, but within tliat compass had levelled all before it. Both trees and
houses were laid flat on the ground, and several things hurled to an incredi-
ble distance. It is happy such violent gusts are confined to so narrow a
channel, because they carry desolation wherever they go. In the evening
they reached Mr. Godwin's, on the south branch of Nansemond river, where
they were treated with abundance of primitive hospitality.

March 1st. This gentleman was so kind as to shorten their journey, by set-
ting them over the river. They coasted the north-east side of the Dismal for
several miles together, and found all the grounds bordering upon it very full
of sloughs. The trees that grew near it looked very reverend, with the long
moss that hung dangling from their branches. Both cattle and horses eat
this moss greedily in winter when other provender is scarce, though it is apt
to scour them at first. In that moist soil too grew abundance of that kind of
myrtle which bears the candle-berries. There was likewise, here and there,
a gall bush, which is a beautiful evergreen, and may be cut into any shape.
It derives its name from its berries turning water black, like the galls of an
oak. When this shrub is transplanted into gardens, it will not thrive without
frequent watering.

The two other commissioners came up with them just at their journey's
end, and that evening they arrived all together at Mr. Ci-aford's, who liv-es
on the south branch of Elizabeth river, over against Norfolk. Here the com-
missioners left the men with all the horses and heavy baggage, and crossed
the river with their servants only, for fear of making a famine in the town.

Norfolk has most the air of a town of any in Virginia. There were then
near 20 brigantines and sloops riding at the wharves, and oftentimes they have
more. It has all the advantages of situation requisite for trade and navi-
gation. There is a secure harbour for a good number of ships of any bur-
then. Their river divides itself into three several branches, which are all
navigable. The town is so near the sea, that its vessels may sail in and out
in a few hours. Their trade is chiefly to the West Indies, whither they ex-
port abundance of beef, pork, flour and lumber. The worst of it is, they
contribute much towards debauching the country by importing abundance of
rum, which, like gin in Great Britain, breaks the constitutions, vitiates the
morals, and ruins the industry of most of the poor people of this country.
This place is the mart for most of the commodities produced in the adjacent
parts of North Carolina. They have a pretty deal of lumber from the bor-
derers on the Dismal, who make bold with the king's land thereabouts, with-
out the least ceremony. They not only maintain their stocks upon it, but
get boards, shingles and other lumber out of it in great abundance.

The town is built on a level spot of ground upon Elizabeth river, the banks
whereof are neither so high as to make the landing of goods troublesome, or
so low as to be in danger of overflowing. The streets are straight, and
adorned with several good houses, which increase every day. It is not a
town of ordinaries and public houses, like most others in this country, but
the inhabitants consist of merchants, ship-carpenters and other useful artisans,
with sailors enough to manage their navigation. With all these conveni-
ences, it lies under the two great disadvantages that most of the towns in
Holland do, by having neither good air nor good water. The two cardi-
nal virtues that make a place thrive, industry and frugality, are seen here in
perfection; and so long as they can banish luxury and idleness, the town will
remain in a happy and flourishing condition.

The method of building wharves here is after the following manner. They
lay down long pine logs, that reach from the shore to the edge of the channel.
These are bound fast together by cross pieces notched into them, according
to the architecture of the loj^-houses in North Carolina. A wharf built thus

THE DIVIDING LINE. J|

will stand several years, in spite of the worm, which bites here very much,
but may be soon repaired in a place where so many pines grow in the neigh-
bourhood.

The commissioners endeavoured, in this town, to list three more men to
serve as guides in that dirty part of the country, but found that these people
knew just enough of that frightful place to avoid it. They had been told that
those Netherlands were full of bogs, of marshes and swamps, not fit for
human creatures to engage in, and this was reason enough for them not to
hazard their persons. So they told us, flat and plain, that we might even dag-
gle through the mire by ourselves for them.

The worst of it was, we could not learn from any body in this town, what
route to take to Coratuck inlet ; till at last we had the fortune to meet with a
borderer upon North Carolina, who made us a rough sketch of that part of
the country. Thus, upon seeing how the land lay, we determined to march
directly to Prescot landing upon North-west river, and proceed thence
by water to the place where our line was to begin.

4th. In pursuance of this resolution we crossed the river this morning to
Powder point, where we all took horse ; and the grandees of the town, with
great courtesy, conducted us ten miles on our way, as far as the long bridge
built over the south branch of the river. The parson of the parish, Mr.
Marston, a painful apostle from the society, made one in this ceremonious
cavalcade.

At the bridge, these gentlemen, wishing us a good deliverance, returned,
and then a troop of light horse escorted us as far as Prescot landing, upon
North-west river. Care had been taken beforehand to provide two periau-
gas to lie ready at that place to transport us to Coratuck inlet. Our zeal was
so great to get thither at the time appointed, that we hardly allowed ourselves
leisure to eat, which in truth we had the less stomach to, by reason the din-
ner was served up by the landlord, whose nose stood on such ticklish terms,
that it was in danger of falling into the dish. We therefore made our repast
very short, and then embarked with only the surveyors and nine chosen men,

leaving the rest at Mr, W n's to take care of the horses and baggage.

There we also left our chaplain, with the charitable intent, that the gentiles
round about might have time and opportunity, if they pleased, of getting
themselves and their children baptized.

We rowed down North-west river about 18 miles, as far as the mouth of
it, where it empties itself into Albemarle sound. It was really a delightful
sight, all the way, to see the banks of the river adorned with myrtle, laurel
and bay trees, which preserve their verdure the year round, though it must
be owned that these beautiful plants, sacred to Venus and Apollo, grow com-
monly in a very dirty soil. Tlie river is, in most places, fifty or sixty yards
wide, without spreading much wider at the mouth. It is remarkable it was
never known to ebb and flow till the year 1713, when a violent storm ojXMied
a new inlet, about five miles south of the old one ; since which convulsion,
the old inlet is almost choked up by the shifting of the sand, and grows both
narrower and shoalor every day.

It was dark before we could reach the mouth of the river, where our way-
ward stars directed us to a miserable cottage. The landlord was lately re-
moved, bag and baggage, from Maryland, through a strong antipathy he had
to work and paying his debts. For want of our tent, we were obliged to.
shelter ourselves in this wretched hovel, where we were almost devoured by
vermin of various kinds. However, we were above comj:iJaining, being ail
philosophers enough to improve such slender distresses into mirth and good
humour.

5th. The day being now come, on which we had agreed to meet tlie com-

12 THE HISTORY OF

missioners of North Carolina, we embarked very early, which we could the
easier do, having no temptation to stay where we were. We shaped our
course along the south end of Knot's island, there being no passage open on
the north. Further still to the southward of us, we discovered two smaller
islands, that go by the names of Bell's and Church's isles. We also saw a
small New England sloop riding in the sound, a little to the south of our
course. She had come in at the new inlet, as all other vessels have done
since the opening of it. This navigation is a little difficult, and fit only for
vessels that draw no more than ten feet water. The trade hither is engrossed
by the saints of New England, who carry off a great deal of tobacco, without
troubling themselves with paying that impertinent duty of a penny a pound.

It was JList noon before we arrived at Coratuck inlet, which is now so shal-
low that the breakers fly over it with a horrible sound, and at the same time
afford a very wild prospect. On the north side of the inlet, the high land
terminated in a bluff point, from which a spit of land extended itself towards
the south-east, full half a mile. The inlet lies between that spit and another
on the south of it, leaving an opening of not quite a mile, which at this day
is not practicable for any vessel whatsoever. And as shallow as it now is, it
continues to fill up more and more, both the wind and waves rolling in the
sands from the eastern shoals.

Aljout two o'clock in the afternoon we were joined by two of the Carolina
commissioners, attended by Mr. Swan, their surveyor. The other two were
not quite so punctual, which was the more unlucky for us, because there
could be no sport till they came. These gentlemen, it seems, had the Caro-
lina commission in their keeping, notwithstanding which, they could not for-
bear paying too much regard to a prov^erb — fashionable in their country — not
to make more haste than good speed.

However, that we who were punctual might not spend our precious time
unprofitably, we took the .several bearings of the coast. We also surveyed
part of the adjacent high land, which had scarcely any trees growing upon it,
but cedars. Among the shrubs, we were showed here and there a bush of
Carolina tea called Japon, which is one species of the Phylarrea. This is an
evergreen, the leaves whereof have some resemblance to tea, but differ very
widely both in taste and flavour. We also found some few plants of the
spired leaf silk grass, which is likewise an evergreen, bearing on a lofty stem
a large cluster of flowers of a pale yellow. Of the leaves of this plant the
people thereabouts twist very strong cordage.

A virtuoso might divert himself here very well, in picking up shells of va-
rious hue and figure, and amongst the rest, that species of conch shell which
the Indian peak is made of The extremities of these shells are blue and the
rest white, so that peak of both these colours are drilled out of one and the
same shell, serving the natives both for ornament and money, and are es-
teemed by them far beyond gold and silver.

The cedars were of singular use to us in the absence of our tent, which
we had left with the rest of the baggage for fear of overloading the periaugas.
We made a circular hedge of the branches of this tree, wrought so close to-
gether as to fence us against the cold winds. We then kindled a rousing fire
in the centre of it, and lay round it, like so many knights templars. But, as
comfortable as this lodging was, the surveyors turned out about two in the
morning to try the variation by a meridian taken from the north star, and
found it to be somewhat less than three degrees west.

The commissioners of the neighbouring colony came better provided for
the belly than the business. They brought not above two men along with
them that would put their hands to any thing but the kettle and the frying-
pan. These spent so much of their industry that way, that they had as little
spirit as inclination for work.

THE DIVIDING LINE. 13

6th. At noon, hiiving a perfect observation, we found the latitude of Cora-
tuck inlet to be 36 degrees and 31 minutes.

Whilst we were busied about these necessary matters, our skipper rowed
to an oyster bank just by, and loaded his periauga with oysters as savoury
and well-tasted as those from Colchester or Walfleet, and had the advantage
of them, too, by being much larger and fatter.

About three in the afternoon the two lag commissioners arrived, and after a.
few decent excuses for making us wait, told us they were ready to enter upon
business as soon as we pleased. The first step was to produce our respec-
tive powers, and the commission from each governor was distinctly read, and
copies of them interchangeably delivered.

It was observed b}'' our Carolina friends, that the latter part of the Vir-
ginia commission had something in it a little too lordly and positive. In an-
swer to which we told them it was necessary to make it thus peremptory,
lest the present commissioners might go upon as fi'uitless an errand as their
predecessors. The former commissioners were tied down to act in exact con-
junction with those of Carolina, and so could not advance one step farther,
or one jot faster, than they were pleased to permit them. The memory of
that disappointment, therefore, induced the government of Virginia to give
fuller powers to the present commissioners, by authorizing them to go on
with the work by them.selves, in case those of Carolina should prove
unreasonable, and refuse to join with them in carrying the business to exe-
cution. And all this was done lest his majesty's gracious intention should
be frustrated a second time.

After both commissions were considered, the first question was, where
the dividing line was to begin. This begat a warm debate; the Virginia
commissioners contending, with a great deal of reason, to begin at the end of
the spit of sand, which was undoubtedly the north shore of Coratuck inlet.
But those of Carolina insisted strenuously, that the point of high land ought
rather to be the place of beginning, because that was fixed and certain,
whereas the spit of sand was ever shifting, and did actually run out farther
now than formerly. The contest lasted some hours, with great vehemence,
neither party receding from their opinion that night. But next morning, Mr.
Moselef , to convince us he was not that obstinate person he had been repre-
sented, yielded to our reasons, and found means to bring over his colleagues.

Here we began already to reap the benefit of those peremptory words in
our commission, which in truth added some weight to our reasons. Never-
theless, because positive proof was made by the oaths of two credible wit-
nesses, that the spit of sand had advanced 200 yards towards the inlet since
the controversy first begaii, we were willing for peace' sake to make them
that allowance. Accordingly we fixed our beginning about that distance
north of the inlet, and tiiere ordered a cedar post to be driven deep into the
sand for our beginning. AVhile we continued hero, we were told that on the
south shore, not fir from the inlet, dwelt a marooner, that modestly called
himself a hermit, though he forfeited that name by suflbring a wanton female
to cohabit with him. llis habitation was a bower, covered with bark after
the Indian fashion, which in that mild situation protected him pretty well from
the weatiier. Like the ravens, he neither ploughed nor sowed, but sul)sisted
chielly upon oysters, which his handmaid made a shift to gather from the ad-
jacent rock.s. Sometimes, too, for change of diet, he sent her to drive up the
neighbour's cows, to moisten their mouths with a little milk. But as for rai-
ment, he depended mostly upon his length of beard, and %he upon her length
of hair, part of which she brought decently forward, and the rest dangled
behind quite down to her rump, like one of Herodotus' East Indian pigmies.

(•

J 4 THE HISTORY OF

Thus did these wretches live in a dirty state of nature, and were mere Adam*
ites, innocence only excepted.

7th. This morning the surveyors began to run the dividing line from the
cedar post we had driven into the sand, allowing near three degrees for the
variation. Without making this just allowance, we should not have obeyed
his majesty's order in running a due west line. It seems the former com-
missioners had not been so exact, which gave our friends of Carolina but too
just an exception to their proceedings. The line cut Dosier's island, consist-
ing only of a flat sand, with here and there an humble shrub growing upon
it. From thence it crossed over a narrow arm of the sound into Knot's
island, and there split a plantation belonging to William Harding.

The day being far spent, we encamped in this man's pasture, though it lay
very low, and the season now inclined people to aguish distempers. He suf-
fered us to cut cedar branches for our enclosure, and other wood for firing, to
correct the moist air and drive away the damps. Our landlady, in the days
of her youth, it seems, had been a laundress in the Temple, and talked over
her adventures in that station, with as much pleasure as an old soldier talks
over his battles and distempers, and I believe with as many additions to the
truth. ^ The soil is good in many places of this island, and the extent of it
pretty large. It lies in the form of a wedge : the south end of it is several
miles over, but towards the north it sharpens into a point. It is a plentiful
place for stock, by reason of the wide marshes adjacent to it, and because of
its warm situation. But the inhabitants pa}- a little dear for this convenience,
by losing as much blood in the summer season by the infinite number of
mosquitoes, as all their beef and pork can recruit in the winter.

The sheep are as large as in Lincolnshire, because they are never pinched
by cold or hunger. The whole island was hitherto reckoned to lie in Vir-
ginia, but now our line has given the greater part of it to Carolina. The
principal freeholder here is Mr. White, who keeps open house for all travel-
lers, that either debt or shipwreck happens to cast in his way.

8th. By break of day we sent away our largest periauga, with the bag-
gage, round the south end of Knot's island, with orders to the men to wait
for us in the mouth of North river. Soon after, we embarked ourselves on
board the smaller vessel, with intent, if possible, to find a passage roi^d the
north end of the island.

We found this navigation very difficult, by reason of the continued shoals,
and often stuck fast aground; for though the sound spreads many miles, yet
it is in most places extremely shallow, and requires a skilful pilot to steer
even a canoe safe over it. It was almost as hard to keep our temper, as
to keep the channel, in this provoking situation. But the most impatient
amongst us stroked down their choler, and swallowed their curses, lest, if
they suffered them to break out, they might sound like complaining, which
was expressly forbidden, as the first step to sedition.

At a distance we descried several islands to the northward of us, the
largest of which goes by the name of Cedar island. Our periauga stuck so
often that we had a fair chance to be benighted in this wide water, which
must certainly have been our fate, had we not luckily spied a canoe that was
giving a foitune-teller a cast from Princess Anne county over to North Caro-
lina. But, as conjurers are sometimes mistaken, the man mistrusted we were
officers of justice in pursuit of a young wench he had carried off along with
him. We gave the canoe chase for more than an hom% and when we came
up with her, threatened to make them all prisoners unless they would direct
us into the right channel. By the pilotage of these people we rowed up an
arm of the sound, called the Back bay, till we came to the head of it. There

THE DIVIDING LINE.

15

we were stopped by a miry pocoson full lia'f a mile in breadth, through
which we were obliged to daggle on foot, plunging now and then, though we
picked our way, up to the knees in mud. At the end of this charming walk
we gained the terra firma of Princess Anne county. In that dirty condition
we were afterwards obliged to foot it two miles, as far as John Heath's plan-
tation, where we expected to meet the surveyors and the men who waited
upon them.

While we were performing this tedious voyage, they had carried the line
through the firm land of Knot's island, where it was no more than half a
mile wide. After that they traversed a large marsh, that was exceedingly
miry, and extended to an arm of the Back bay. They crossed that water
in a canoe, which we had ordered round for that purpose, and then waded
over another marsh, that reached quite to the high land of Princess Anne.
Both these marshes together make a breadth of five miles, in which the men
frequently sank up to the middle, without muttering the least complaint. On
the contrary, they turned all these disasters into merriment.

It was discovered, by this day's work, that Knot's island was improperly
so called, being in truth no more than a peninsula. The north-west side of
it is only divided from the main by the great marsh above-mentioned, which
is seldom totally overflowed. Instead of that, it might, by the labour of a
few trenches, be drained into firm meadow, capable of grazing as many cattle
as Job, in his best estate, was master of In the miry condition in which it
now lies, it feeds greht numbers in the winter, though, when the weatlier grows
warm, they are driven thence by the mighty armies of mosquitoes, which are
the plague of the lower part of Carolina, as much as the flies were formerly
of Egypt, and some rabbins think those flies were no other than mosquitoes.

All the people in the neighbourhood flocked to John Heath's, to behold such
rarities as they fancied us to be. The men left their beloved chimney cor-
ners, the good women their spinning wheels, and some, of more curiosity
than ordinary, rose out of their sick beds, to come and stare at us. They
looked upon us as a troop of knights errant, who were running this great
risk of our lives, as they imagined, for the public weal ; and some of the
gravest of them questioned much whether we were not all criminals, con-
demned to this dirty work for offences against the state. What puzzled
them most was, what could make our men so very light-hearted under such
intolerable drudgery. "Ye have little reason to be merry, my masters,"
said one of them, with a very solemn face, " 1 fancy the pocoson you must
struggle with to-morrow will make you change your note, and try what
metal you are made of Ye are, to be sure, the first of human race that
ever had the boldness to attempt it, and I dare say will be the last. If, there-
fore, you have any worldly goods to dispose of, my advice is that you make
your wills this very night, for fear you die intestate to-morrow." But, alas!
these frightful tales were so far from disheartening the men, that they served
only to whet their resolution.

9th. The surveyors entered early upon their business this morning, and
ran the line through Mr. Eyland's plantation, as far as the banks of North
river. They passed over it in the periauga, and landed in Gibbs' marsh,
which was a mile in breadth, and tolerably firm. They trudged through this
marsh without much difficulty as far as the high land, which promised more
fertility than any they had seen in these lower parts. But this firm land
lasted not long befire they came upon the dreadful pocoson tliey had been
threateneil with. JVor did they find it one jot belter than it had been jiainted
to them. The beavers and otteis had rendered it quite impassable for any
creature but themselves.

Our poor fellows had nuicli ado to dra>.^ their legs after them in this quag-

15 THE HISTORY OF

mire, but disdaining to be balked, they could hardly be persuaded from
pressing forward by the surveyors, who found it absolutely necessary to
make a traverse in the deepest place, to prevent their sticking fast in the
mire, and becoming a certain prey to the turkey buzzards.

This horrible day's work ended two miles to the northward of Mr. Mer-
chant's plantation, divided from North-west river by a narrow swamp, which
is causewayed over. We took up our quarters in the open field, not far from
the house, correcting, by a fire as large as a Roman funeral pile, the aguish
exhalations arising fiom the sunken groimds that surrounded us.

The neck of land included betwixt North river and North-west river, with
the adjacent marsh, belonged formerly to Governor Gibbs, but since his decease
to Colonel Bladen, in right of his first lady, who was ]\Ir. Gibbs' daughter.
It w-ould be a valuable tract of land in any country but North Carolina,
where, for want of navigation and commerce, the best estate affords little
more than a coarse subsistence.

10th. The sabbath happened very opportunel}' to give some ease to our
jaded people, who rested religiously from every work, but that of cooking the
kettle. We observed very few coi'n-fields in our walks, and those very small,
which seemed the stranger to us, because we could see no other tokens of
husbandry or improvement. But, upon further inquiry, we were given to
understand people only made corn for themselvps and" not for their stocks,
which know very well how to get their own living. Both cattle and hogs
ramble into the neighbouring marshes and swamps, Ayhere they maintain
themselves the whole winter long, and are not fetched home till the spring.
Thus these indolent w^retches, during one half of the year, lose the advantage
of the milk of their cattle, as well as their dung, and many of the poor crea-
tures perish in the mire, into the bargain, by this ill management. Some,
who pique themselves more upon industry than their neighbours, will, now
and then, in compliment to their cattle, cut down a tree whose limbs are
loaded with the moss afore-mentioned. The trouble would be too great to
climb the tree in order to gather this provender, but the shortest way/ (which
in this country is always counted the best) is to fell it, just like the lazy In-
dians, who do the same by such trees as bear fruit, and so make one harvest
for all. By this bad husbandry milk is so scarce, in the winter season, that
were a big-bellied woman to long for it, she would lose her longing. And, in
truth, I believe this is often the case, and at the same time a very good reason
Avhy so many people in this province are marked w'ith a custard complexion.
The only business here is raising of hogs, which is managed with the least
trouble, and affords the diet they are most fond of The truth of it is, the
inhabitants of North Carolina devour so much swine's flesh, that it fills them
full of gross humours. For want too of a constant supply of salt, they are
commonly obliged to eat it fresh, and that begets the highest taint of scurv^y.
Thus, whenever a severe cold happens to constitutions thus vitiated, it is apt
to improve into the yaws, called there very justly the country distemper.
This has all the symptoms o( sT/philis, with this aggravation, that no prepara-
tion of mercury will touch it. First it seizes the throat, next the palate, and
lastly shows its spite to the poor nose, of which it is apt in a small time
treacherously to undermine the foundation. This calamity is so common and
familiar here, that it ceases to be a scandal, and in the disputes that happen
about beauty, the noses have in some companies much ado to carry it. Nay,
it is said that once, after three good pork years, a motion had like to have
been ma<le in the house of burgesses, that a man with a nose should be inca-
pable of holding any place of profit in the province ; which extraordinary mo-
tion conld never have been intended without some hopes of a majority.
Thus, considering the foul and pernicious effects of eating swine's flesh in

THE DIVIDING LINE. 17

a hot country, it was wisely forbidden and made an abomination to the Jews,
who lived much in tlie same latitude with Carolina.

1 Ith. We ordered the surveyors early to their business, who were blessed
with pretty dry grounds for three miles together. But they paid dear for it
in the next two, consisting of one continued frightful pocoson, which no
creatures but those of the amphibious kind ever had ventured into before.
This filthy quagmire did in earnest put the men's courage to a trial, and
though I cannot say it made them lose their patience, yet they lost their '
humour for joking. They kept their gravity like so many Spaniards, so that
a man miffht then have taken his opportunity to plunge up to the chin, with-
out dange'r of being laughed at. However, this unusual composure of coun-
tenance could not fairly be called complaining. Their day's work ended at
the mouth of Northern's creek, which empties itself into North-west river ;
though we chose to quarter a little higher up the river, near Mossy point.
This'we did for the convenience of an old house to shelter our persons and
haccage from the rain, which threatened us hard. We judged the thing right,
for^Uiere fell a heavy shower in the night, that drove the most hardy of us
into the house. Though, indeed, our case was not much mended by retreat-
ing thither, because that tenement having not long before been used as a
pork store, the moisture of the air dissolved the salt that lay scattered on the
floor, and made it as wet within doors as without. However, the swamps
and marshes we were lately accustomed to had made such beavers and
otters of us that nobody caught the least cold. We had encamped so early,
that we found time in the evening to walk near half a mile into the woods.
There we came upon a family of mulattoes that called themselves free, though
by the shyness of the master of the house, who took care to keep least in
sight, their freedom seemed a little doubtful. It is certain many slaves shelter
themselves in this obscure part of the world, nor will any of their righteous
neighbours discover them. On the contrary, they find their account in set-
tling such fugitives on some out-of-the-way corner of their land, to raise
stocks for a mean and inconsiderable share, well knowing their condition
makes it necessary for them to submit to any terms. Nor were these worthy
borderers content to shelter runaway slaves, but debtors and criminals have
often met with the like indulgence. But if the government of North Carolina
has encouraged tliis unneighbourly policy in order to increase their people,
it is no more" than what ancient Rome did before them, which was made a
city of refuge for all debtors and fugitives, and from that wretched beginning
grew up in "time to be mistress of a great part of the world. And, consider-
ing how fortune delights in bringing great things out of small, who knows
but Carolina may, one time or other, come to be the seat of some other great
empire ]

12th. Every thing had been so soaked with the rain, that we were obliged
to lie by a good part of the morning and dry them. However, that time was
not lost, because it gave the surveyors an opportunity of platting off their
work and taking the course of the river. It likewise helped to recruit the
spirits of the men, who had been a little -harassed with yesterday's inarch.
Notwithstanding all this, we crossed the river before noon, and advanced our
line tiiree miles. It was not possible to make more of it, by reason good
part of the way was either marsh or pocoson. The line cut two or three
plantations, leaving part of them in Virginia, and part of them in Carolina.
This was a case that happened frequently, to the great inconvenience of the
owners, who were therefore obliged to take out two patents and pay for a
new survey in each government. In the evening, we took up our quarters
in Mr. Ballance's pasture, a little above the bridge built over North-west
river. There we discharged the two periaugas, which in truth had beon

IS

THE HISTORY OF

very serviceable in transporting us over the many waters in tliat dirty and
difficult part of our business. Our landlord had a tolerable good house and
clean furniture, and yet we could not be tempted to lodge in it. We chose
rather to lie in the open field, for fear of growing too tender. A clear sky,
spangled with stars, was our canopy, which being the last thing we saw be-
foi-e we fell asleep, gave us magnificent dreams. The truth of it is, we took
so much pleasure in that natural kind of lodging, that I think at the foot of
the account mankind are great losers by the luxury of feather beds and
warm apartments.

The curiosity of beholding so new and withal so sweet a method of en-
camping, brought one of the senators of North Carolina to make us a mid-
night visit. But he was so very clamorous in his commendations of it, that
the sentinel, not seeing his quality, either through his habit or behaviour, had
like to have treated him roughly. After excusing the un.seasonableness of
his visit, and letting us know he was a parliament man, he swore he was so
taken with our lodging, that he would set fire to his house as soon as he got
home, and teach his wife and children to lie, like us, in the open field.

1.3th. Early this morning our chaplain repaired to us with the men we had
left at Mr. Wilson's. We had sent for them the evening before to relieve
those who had the labour-oar from Coratuck inlet. But to our great surprise,
they petitioned not to be relieved, hoping to gain immortal reputation by be-
ing the first of mankind that ventured through the great Dismal. But the
rest being equally ambitious of the same honour, it was but fair to decide
their pretensions by lot. After fortune had declared herself, those which she
had excluded offered money to the happy persons to go in their stead. But
Hercules would have as soon sold the glory of cleansing the Augean stables,
which was pretty near the same sort of work. J\o sooner was the contro-
versy at an end, but we sent those unfortunate fellows back to their quarters,
whom chance had condemned to remain upon firm land and sleep in a whole
skin. In the mean while the surveyors carried the line three miles, which
was no contemptible day's work, considering how cruelly they were entan-
gled with briers and gall bushes. The leaf of this last shrub bespeaks it to
be of the alaternus family.

Our work ended within a quarter of a mile of the Dismal above-mentioned,
where the ground began to be already full of sunken holes and slashes, which
had, here and there, some few reeds growing in them. It is hardly credible
how little the bordering inhabitants were acquainted with this mighty swamp,
notwithstanding they had lived their whole lives within smell of it. Yet, as
great strangers as they were to it, they pretended to be very exact in their
account of its dimensions, and were positive it could not be above seven or
eight miles wide, but knew no more of the matter than star-gazers know of
the distance of the fixed stars. At the same time, they were simple enough
to amuse our men with idle stories of the lions, panthers and alligators, they
were like to encomiter in that dreadful place. In short, we saw plainly there
was no intelligence of this terra incognita to be got, but from our own ex-
perience. For that reason it was resolved to make the requisite dispositions
to enter it next morning. We allotted every one of the surveyors for this
painful enterprise, with twelve men to attend them. Fewer than that could
not be employed in clearing the way, carrying the chain, marking the trees,
and bearing the necessary bedding and provisions. Xor would the commis-
sioners themselves have spared their persons on this occasion, but for fear of
adding to the poor men's burthen, while they were certain they could add
nothing to their resolution.

We quartered with our friend and fellow traveller, William Wilkins, who
had been our faithful pilot to Coratuck, and lived about a mile from the place

THE DIVIDING LINE. 19

where the line ended. Every tiling lool^ed so very clean, and tlie Curnituir
so neat, that we were tempted to lodge within doors. But the novelty of
being shut up so close quite spoiled our rest, nor did we breathe so free by
abundance, as when we lay in the open air.

14th. Before nine of the clock this morning, the provisions, bedding and
other necessaries, were made up into packs for the men to carry on their
shoulders into the Dismal. They were victualled for eight days at full allow-
ance, nobody doubting but that would be abundantly sufficient to carry them
■through that inhospitable place ; nor indeed was it possible for the poor fel-
lows to stagger under more. As it was, their loads weighed from 60 to 70
pounds, in just proportion to the strength of those who were to bear them.
It would have been unconscionable to have saddled them with burthens
heavier than that, when they were to lug them through a filthy bog, which
was hardly practicable with no burthen at all. Besides this luggage at their
backs, they were obliged to measure the distance, mark the trees, and clear
the way for the surveyors every step they went. It was really a pleasure to
see with how much cheerfulness they undertook, and with how much spirit
they went through all this drudgery. For their greater safety, the commis-
sioners took care to furnish them with Peruvian bark, rhubarb and hipocoa-
canah, in case they might happen, in that wet journey, to be taken with fevers
or fluxes. Although there was no need of example to inflame persons al-
ready so cheerful, yet to enter the people with the better grace, the author
and two more of the commissioners accompanied them half a mile into the
Dismal. The skirts of it were thinly planted with dwarf reeds and gall
bushes, but when we got into the Dismal itself, we found the reeds grew there
much taller and closer, and, to mend the matter, were so interlaced with
bamboo-briers, that there was no scufliing through them without the help of
pioneers. At the same time, we found the ground moist and trembling under
our feet like a quagmire, insomuch that it was an easy matter to run a ten-
foot pole up to the head in it, without exerting any uncommon strength to do
it. Two of the men, whose burthens were the least cumbersome, had orders
to march before, with their tomahawks, and clear the way, in ordei* to make
an opening for the surveyors. By their assistance we made a shifl; to push
the line half a mile in three hours, and then reached a small piece of firm
land, about 100 yards wide, standing up above the rest like an island. Here
the people were glad to lay down their loads and take a little refreshment,
while the happy man, whose lot it was to carry the jug of rum, began alrea-
dy, like iEsop's bread-carriers, to find it grow a good deal lighter.

After reposing about an hour, the commissioners recommended vigour and
constancy to their fellow-travellers, by whom they were answered with three
cheerful huzzas, in token of obedience. This ceremony was no sooner over
but they took up their burthens and attended the motion of the surveyors,
•who, though they worked with all their might, could reach but one mile far-
ther, the same obstacles still attending them which they had met with in the
morning. However small this distance may seem to such as are used to
travel at their ease, yet our poor men, who were obliged to work with an
unwieldy load at their backs, had reason to think it a long way ; especially
in a bog where they had no firm footing, but every step made a deep impres-
sion, which was instantly filled with water. At the same time they were
labouring with their hands to cut down the reeds, which were fen feet high,
their legs were hampered with the briers. Besides, the weather happened to
be warm, and the tallness of the reeds kept olF every friendly breeze from
coming to refresh them. And, intieed, it was a little provoking to Iiear the
wind whistling among the branches of the white cedars, which grew here
and there amongst the reeds, and at the same time not to have the comfort to
feel the least brt\nth of it.

20 '^"HE HISTORY OF

In the mean time the three commissioners returned out of the Dismal the
same way tliey went in, and, having joined their brethren, proceeded that
night as far as Mr. Wilson's. This worthy person lives within sight of the
Dismal, in the skirts whereof his stocks range and maintain themselves all
the winter, and yet he knew as little of it as he did of Terra Australis Incog-
nita. He told us a Canterbury tale of a North Briton, whose curiosity spur-
red him a long way into this great desert, as he called it, near twenty years
ago, but he having no compass, nor seeing the sun for several days together,
wandered about till he was almost famished ; but at last he bethought himself
of a secret his countrymen make use of to pilot themselves in a dark day.
He took a fat louse out of his collar, and exposed it to the open day on a
piece of white paper, which he brought along with him for his journal. The
poor insect, having no eye-lids, turned himself about till he found the darkest
part of the heavens, and so made the best of his way towards the north.
By this direction he steered himself safe out, and gave such a frightful ac-
count of the monsters he saw, and the distresses he underwent, that no mor-
tal since has been hardy enough to go upon the like dangerous discovery.

15th. The surveyors pursued their work with all diligence, but still found
the soil of the Dismal so spongy that the water oozed up into every footstep
they took. To their sorrow, too, they found the reeds and briers more firmly
interwoven than they did the day before. But the greatest grievance was
from large cypresses, which the wind had blown down and heaped upon one
another. On the limbs of most of them grew sharp snags, pointing every
way like so many pikes, that required nmch pains and caution to avoid.
These trees being evergreens, and shooting their large tops very high, are
easily overset by every gust of wind, because there is no firm earth to steady
their roots. Thus many of them were laid prostrate, to the great encum-
brance of the way. Such variety of difficulties made the business go on
heavily, insomuch that, from morning till night, the line could advance no far-
ther than one mile and thirty-one poles. Never was rum, that cordial of life,
found more necessary than it was in this dirty place. It did not only recruit
the people's spirits, now almost jaded with fatigue, but served to correct the
badness of the water, and at the same time to resist the malignity of the air.
Whenever the men wanted to drink, which was very often, they had nothing
more to do but to make a hole, and the water bubbled up in a moment. But
'it was far from being either clear or well tasted, and had besides a physical
effect, from the tincture it received from the roots of the shrubs and trees
that grew in the neighbourhood.

While the surveyors were thus painfully employed, the commissioners dis-
charged the long score they had with Mr. Wilson, for the men and horse.s
which had been quartered upon him during our expedition to Coratuck.
From thence we marched in good order along the east side of the Dismal,
and passed the long bridge that lies over the south branch of Elizabeth river.
At the end of 18 miles we reached Timothy Ivy's plantation, where we pitch-
ed our tent for the first time, and were furnished with every thing the place
afforded. We perceived the happy effects of industry in this family, in which
every one looked tidy and clean, and carried in their countenances the cheer-
ful marks of plenty. We saw no drones there, which are but too common,
alas, in that part of the world. Though, in truth, the distemper of laziness
seizes the men oftener much than the women. These last spin, weave and
knit, all with their own hands, while their husbands, depending on the bounty of
the climate, are slothful in every thing but getting of children, and in
that only instance make themselves useful members of an infant colony.

There is but little wool in that province, though cotton grows very kindly,
and, so far south, is seldom nipped by the frost. The good women mix this

THE DIVIDING LINE.

21

with their wool for their outer garments; though, for want of tlilling, that
kind of manufacture is open and sleazy. Flax likewise thrives there ex-
tremely, being perhaps as fine as any in the world, and I question not might,
with a little care, be brought to rival that of Egypt; and yet the men are
here so intolerably lazy, they seldom take the trouble to propagate it.

1 6th. The line was this day carried one mile and a half and sixteen poles.
The soil continued soft and miry, but fuller of trees, especially white cedars,
Many of these too were thrown down and piled in heaps, high enough for a
good Muscovite fortification. The worst of it M^as, the poor fellows began
now to be troubled with fluxes, occasioned by bad water and moist lodging:
but chewing of rhubarb kept that malady within bounds.

In the mean time the commissioners decamped early in the morning, and
made a march of twenty-five miles, as far as Mr. Andrew Mead's, who livesupon
Nansemond river. They were no sooner got under the shelter of that hos-
pitable roof, but it began to rain hai'd, and continued so to do great part of
the night. This gave them much pain for their friends in tlie Dismal, whose
sufferings spoiled their taste for the good cheer, wherewith they were enter-
tained themselves. However, late that evening, these poor men had the for-
tune to come upon another terra firma, which was the luckier for them, be-
cause the lower ground, by the rain that fell, was made a fitter lodging for
tadpoles than men. In our journey v/e remai-ked that the north side of this
great swamp lies higlier than either the east or the west, nor were the ap-
proaches to it so full of sunken grounds. We passed by no less than two
quaker meeting houses, one of which had an awkward ornament on the west
end of it, that seemed to ape a steeple. I must own I expected no such piece
of foppery from a sect of so much outside simplicity. That peisuasion pre-
vails much in the lower end of Nansemond county, (or want of niinisters to
pilot the people a decenter way to heaven. The ill reputation of tobacco
planted in those lower parishes makes the clergy unwilling to accept of them,
unless it be such whose abilities are as mean as their pay. Thus, whether
the churches be quite void or but indifTerently filled, the quakers will have an
opportunity of gaining proselytes. It is a wonder no popish missionaries are
sent from Maryland to labour in this neglected vineyard, who we know have
zeal enough to traverse sea and land on the meritorious errand of making
converts. Nor is it less strange that some wolf in sheep's clothing arrives
not from New Engla)id to lead astray a flock that has no sheph.erd. People
uninstructed in any religion are ready to embrace the first that oflpis. It is
natural for helpless man to adore his Maker in some form or other, and were
there any exception to this rule, I should suspect it to be among the Hotten-
tots of the cape of Good Hope and of North Carolina.

There fell a great deal of rain in the night, accompanied with a strong
wind. The fellow-feeling we had for the poor Disuialites, on account of this
unkind weather, rendered the down we laid upon uneasy. Wo fancied them
half-drowned in their wet lodging, with the trees blowing down about their
ears. These were the gloomy images our fears suggested ; though it was
so much uneasiness clear gain. They happened to come ofl' nuich better, by
being luckily encamped on the dry piece of ground afitre-iuontioncvl.

'7th. They were, liowtwer, flu^'cd to kei>p the sabl)ath in spite of their
teeth, contrary to the dispensation our good chaplain had given IIkmii. hi-
deed, their short allowance^ of provision would have justified (heii" uiaking
the best of their way, without distinction of days. It was certainl)' a work
both f)f necessity and seM-iire.servatioix, to save themselves iVom starving.
Nevertheless, the hard rain had made every thing so thoroughly wet. fliat it
was quite ini|)o.ssible to do any business. Tiiey therefore made a virtue of
what they could not help, and ("ontentedly rested in their dry situation.

D

22 THE HISTORY OF

Since the surveyors had entered the Dismal, they had laid eyes on no living'
creature : neither bird nor beast, insect nor reptile came in view. Doubtless,
the eternal shade that broods over this mighty bog, and hinders the sun-
beams from blessing the ground, makes it an uncomfortable habitation for
any thing that has life. Not so much as a Zealand frog could endure so
aguish a situation. It had one beauty, however, that delighted the eye,
though at the expense of all the other senses : the moisture of the soil pre-
serves a continual verdure, and makes every plant an evergreen, but at the
same time the foul damps ascend without ceasing, corrupt the air, and ren-
der it unfit for respiration. Not even a turkey buzzard will venture to fly
over it, no more than the Italian vultures will over the filthy lake Avernus, or
the birds in the Holy Land, over the Salt sea, where Sodom and GomoiTab
formerly stood.

In these sad circumstances, the kindest thing we could do for our suflTering
friends was to give them a place in the Litany. Our chaplain, for his part,
did his office, and rubbed us up with a seasonable semion. This was quite
a new thing to our brethren of North Carolina, who live in a climate where
no clergyman can breathe, any more than spiders in Ireland.

For want of men in holy orders, both the members of the councU and
justices of the peace are empowered by the laws of that country to marry
all those who will not take one another's word; but for the ceremony of
christening their children, they trust that to chance. If a parson come in
their way, they will crave a cast of his office, as they call it, else they are
content their offspring should remain as arrant pagans as themselves. They
account it among their greatest advantages that tliey are not priest-ridden,
not remembering that the clergy is rarely guilty of bestriding such as have
the misfortune to be poor. One thing may be said for the inhabitants of that
province, that they are not troubled with any religious fumes, and have the
least superstition of any people living. They do not know Sunday from any
other day, any more than Robinson Crusoe did, which would give them a
great advantage were they given to be industrious. But they keep so many
sabbaths every week, that their disregard of the seventh day has no manner
of cruelty in it, either to servants or cattle. It was with some difficulty we
could make our people quit the good cheer they met with at this house, so it
was late before we took our departure ; but to make us amends, our landlord
was so good as to conduct us ten miles on our way, as far as the Cypress
swamp, which drains itself into the Dismal. Eight miles beyond that we
forded the waters of the Coropeak, which tend the same way as do many
others on that side. In six miles more we reached the plantation of Mr.
Thomas Spight, a grandee of North Carolina. We found the good man upon
his crutches, being crippled with the gout in both his knees. Here we flat-
tered ourselves we should by this time meet with good tidings of the survey-
ors, but had reckoned, alas ! without our host : on the contrary, we were told
the Dismal was at least thirty miles wide in that place. However, as nobody
could say this on his own knowledge, we ordered guns to be fired and a drum
to be beaten, but received no answer, unless it was from that prating nymph
Echo, who, like a loquacious wife, will always have the last word, and some-
times return three for one. It was indeed no wonder our signal was not
heard at that time, by the people in the Dismal, because, in truth, they had
not then penetrated one third of their way. They had that morning fallen
to work with great vigour; and, finding the ground better than ordinary,
drove on the line two miles and thij-ty-eight poles. This was reckoned an
Herculean day's work, and yet they would not have stopped there, had not
an impenetrable cedar thicket checked their industry. Our landlord had
seated himself on the borders of this Dismal, for the advantage of the green

THE DIVIDING LINE. 23

food his cattle find there all winter, and for the rooting that supports his hogs.
This, I own, is some convenience to his purse, for which his whole family pay-
dear in their persons, for they are devoured by mosquitoes all the summer,
and have agues every spring and fall, which corrupt all the juices of their
bodies, give them a cadaverous complexion, and besides a lazy, creeping habit,
which they never get rid of

We ordered several men to patrol on the edge of the Dismal, both towards
the north and towards the south, and to fire guns at proper distances. This
they performed very punctually, but could hear nothing in return, Hor gain
any sort of intelligence. In the mean time whole flocks of women and child-
ren flew hither to stare at us, with as much curiosity as if we had lately
landed from Bantam or Morocco. Some borderers, too, had a great mind
to know where the line would come out, being for the most part apprehensive
lest their lands should be taken into Virginia. In that case they must have
submitted to some sort of order and government ; whereas, in North Carolina,
every one does what seems best in his own eyes. There were some good
women that brought their children to be baptized, but brought no capons
along with them to make the solemnity cheerful. In the mean time it was
strange that none came to be married in such a multitude, if it had only been
for the novelty of having their hands joined by one in holy orders. Yet so
it was, that though our chaplain christened above a hundred, he did not
marry so much as one couple during the whole expedition. But marriage is
reckoned a lay contract in Carolina, as I said before, and a country justice
can tie the fatal knot there, as fast as an archbishop. None of our visiters
could, however, tell us any news of the surveyors, nor indeed was it possible
any of them should at that time, they being still laboring in the midst of the
Dismal. It seems they were able to carry the link this day no further than
one mile and sixty-one poles, and that whole distance was through a miry
cedar bog, where the gi'ound trembled under their feet most frightfully. In
many places too their passage was retarded by a great number of fallen trees,
that lay horsing upon one another. Though many circumstances concurred
to make this an unwholesome situation, yet the poor men had no time to be
sick, nor can one conceive a more calamitous case than it would have been
to be laid up in that uncomfortable quagmire. Never were patients more
tractable, or willing to take physic, than these honest fellows; but it was from
a dread of laying Uieir bones in a bog that would soon spew them up again.
That consideration also put tliem upon more caution about their lodging.
They first covered the ground with square pieces of cypress bark, which
now, in the spring, they'could easily slip off the tree for that purpose. On
this they spread their bedding ; but unhappily the weight and warmth of their
bodies made the water rise up l^etwixt the joints of the bark, to their great
inconvenience. Thus they lay not only moist, but also exceedingly cold, be-
cause their fires were continually going out. For no sooner was the trash
upon the surface burnt away, but immediately the fire was extinguished by
the moisture of the soil, insomuch that it was great part of the sentinel's busi-
ness to rekindle it again in a fresh place, every quarter of an hour. Nor
could they indeed do their duty hotter, because cold was the only enemy they
had to guard against in a miserable morass, where nothing can inhabit.

20th. We could get no tidings yet of our brave adventurers, notwithstand-
ing we despatched men to the likeliest stations to in(Hiire after them. They
were still scuffling in the mire, and could not i>()ssil)ly f(»rward the line this
whole day more than one mile and sixty-four chains, l-'.very step of this day's
work was through a cedar bog, where tlic trees were somewhat smaller and
grew more into a thicket. It was now a great misfortune to lli(> men to lind
their provisions grow less as their labour grew greater: they were all lurctd

24 THE HISTORY OF

to come to short allowance, and consequently to work hard without filling
their bellies. Tiiough this was very severe upon English stomachs, yet the
people were so far from being discomfited at it, that they stUl kept up their
good humour, and merrily told a young fellow in the company, who looked
very plump and wholesome, that he must expect to go first to pot, if matters
should come to extremity. This was only said by way of jest, yet it made
him thoughtful in earnest. However, for the present he returned them a very
civil answer, letting them know that, dead or alive, he should be glad to be
useful to such worthy good friends. But, after all, this humorous saying had
one very good effect, for that younker, who l^efore was a little inclined by his
constitution to be lazy, grew on a sudden extremelj'^ industrious, that so there
might be less occasion to carbonade him for the good of his fellow travellers.
While our friends were thus embarrassed in the Dismal, the commissioners
began to lie under great uneasiness for them. They knew very well their
provisions must by this time begin to fall short, nor could they conceive any
- likely means of a supply. At this time of the year both the cattle and hogs
had forsaken the skirts of the Dismal, invited by the springing grass on the
firm land. All our hopes were that Providence would cause some wild game
to fall in their way, or else direct them to a wholesome vegetable for their
l^bsistence. In short they were haunted with so many frights on this occa-
sion, that they were in truth more uneasy than the persons whose case they
lamented. We had several visiters from Edenton, in the afternoon, that came
with Mr. Gale, who had prudently left us at Coratuck, to scuffle through that
dirty country by ourselves. These gentlemen, having good noses, had smelled
out, at thirty miles' distance, the precious liquor with which the liberality of
our good friend Mr. Mead had just before supplied us. That generous per-
son had judged very right, that we were now got out of the latitude of drink
proper for men in affliction, and therefore was so good as to send his cart
loaded with all sorts of refreshments, for which the commissioners returned
him their thanks, and the chaplain his blessing.

21st. The surveyors and their attendants began now in good earnest to be
alarmed with apprehensions of famine, nor could they forbear looking with
some sort of appetite upon a dog v/hich had been the faithful companion of
their travels. Their provisions were now near exhausted. They had this
morning made the last distribution, that so each might husband his small pit-
tance as he pleased. Now it was that the fresh coloured young man began
to tremble every joint of him, having dreamed, the night before, that the In-
dians were about to barbacue him over live coals. The prospect of famine
determined ti.e people, at last, with one consent, to abandon the line for the
present, which advanced but slowl)-, and make the best of their way to firm
land. Accordingly they set off very early, and, by the help of the compass
which they carried along with them, steered a direct westwardly course.
They marched from morning till night, and computed their journey to amount
to about four miles, Avhich was a great way, considering the difiiculties of the
ground. It was all along a cedar swamp, so diity and perplexed, that if they
had not travelled for their lives, they could not have reached so far. On their
way they espied a turkey buzzard, that flew prodigiously high to get above
the noisome exhalations that ascend from that filthy place. This they were
willing to undenstand as a good omen, according to the superstition of the
ancients, w^ho had great faith in the flight of vultures. However, after all this
tedious journey, they could yet discover no end of their toil, which made
them very pensive, especially after they had eaten the last morsel of their
provisions. But to their unspeakable comfort, when all was hushed in the
evening, they heard tlie cattle low, and the dogs bark, very distinctly, which,
to men in that distress, was more delightful music than Faustina or FarineUi

THE DIVIDING LINE. 25

could have made. In the mean time the commissioners could get no news of
them from any of their visiters, who assembled from every point of the compass.
But the good landlord had visiters of another kind while we were there, that
is to say, some industrious masters of sliips, that lay in Nansemond river.
These worthy commanders came to bespeak tobacco from these parts to
make up their loadings, in contempt of tlie Virginia law, which positively for-
bade their taking in any made in North Carolina. Nor was this restraint at
all unreasonable ; because they have no law in Carolina, either to mend the '
quality or lessen the quantity of tobacco, or so much as to prevent the turn-
ing out of seconds, all which cases have been provided against by the laws
of Virginia. Wherefore, there can be no reason why tlie inliabitants of that
province should have the same advantage of shipping their tobacco in our
parts, when they will by no means submit to the same restrictions that we do.
22d. Our patrol happened not to go far enough to the northward this
morning, if they had, the people in the Dismal might have heard the report of
their guns. For this reason they returned without any tidings, which threw
us into a great though unnecessary perplexity. This was now the ninth day
since they entered into that inhospitable swamp, and consequently we had
reason to believe their provisions were quite spent. We knew they worked
hard, and therefore would eat heartily, so long as they had wherewithal to
recruit their spirits, not imagining the swamp so wide as they found it. Had
we been able to guess where the line would come out, we would hav'e sent
men to meet them with a fresh supply ;* but as we could know nothing of
that, and as we had neither compass nor surveyor to guide a messenger on
such an errand, we were unwilling to expose him to no purpose ; therefore,
all we were able to do for them, in so great an extremity, was to recommend
them to a merciful Providence. However long we might think the time, yet
we were cautious of showing our uneasiness, for fear of mortifying our land-
lord. He had done his best for us, and therefore we were unwilling he should
think us dissatisfied with our entertainment. In the midst of our concern, we
were most agreeably surprised, just after dinner, with the news that the Dis--
malites were all safe. These blessed tidings were brought to us by Mr. Swan,,
the Carolina surveyor, who came to us in a very tattered condition. After
very short salutations, we got about him as if he had been a Hottentot,, and;
began to inquii'e into his adventures. He gave us a detail of their uncom-
fortable voyage through the Dismal, and told us, particularly, they had pur-
sued their journey early that morning, encouraged by the good omen of seeing-
the crows fly over their heads ; that, after an hour's march over very rotten,
ground, they, on a sudden, began to find themselves among tall i>iues, that
grew in the water, which in many places was knee deep. This pine swamp,,
into which that of Coropeak drained itself, extended near a mile in breadth ^
and though it was exceedingly wet, yet it was much harder at bottom than^
the rest of the swamp ; that about ten in the morning they recovered firm
land, which they embraced with as much pleasure as shipwrecked wretches
do the shore. After these honest adventurers had congratulated each other's,
deliverance, their first inquiry was for a good hou.se, where they might satisfy
the importunity of their stomachs. Their good genius directed them to Mr.
Brinkley's, who dwells a little to the southward of the line. This man began
immediately to be very incpiisitivc, but they declared they had no spirits to-
answer questions, till alter diimer. •' But pray, gentlt>men," said he, " answer
me one question at least: what shall we get for your dinner!" To which
they replied, " No matter what, so it be but enough." He kindly supplied
their wants as .soon as possible, and by the strength of that refreshment they
made a «hift to come to us in tlie evening, to tell their own story. They all

26 THE HISTORY OF

looked very thin, and as ragged as the Gibeonite ambassadors did in the
days of yore.

Our surveyors told us they had measured ten miles in the Dismal, and
computed the distance they had marched since to amount to about five more,
so tliey made the whole breadth to be fifteen miles in all.

23d. It was very reasonable that the surve)'ors, and the men who had been
sharers in their fatigue, should now have a little rest. They were all, except
one, in good health and good heart, blessed be God ! notwithstanding the
dreadful hardships they had gone through. It was really a pleasure to see
the cheerfulness wherewith they received tlie order to prepare to re-enter the
Dismal on the Monday following, in order to continue the line from the place
where they had left off measurmg, that so we might have the exact breadth
of that dirty place. There were no more than two of them that could be
persuaded to be relieved on this occasion, or suffer the other men to share the
credit of that bold undertaking, neither would these have suffered it had not
one of them been very lame, and the other much indisposed. By the de-
scription the surveyors gave of the Dismal, we were convince 1 that nothing
but the exceeding dry season we had been blessed with could have made the
passing of it practicable. It is the source of no less than five .several rivers
which discharge themselves southward into All^emarle sound, and of two that
run northerly into Virginia. From thence it is easy to imagine that the soil
must be thoroughly soaked with water, or else there must be plentiful stores
of it under ground ; to supply so many rivers ; especially since there is no
lake, or any considerable body of that element to be seen on the surface.
The rivei-s that head in it from Virginia are the south branch of Nansemond,
and the west branch of Elizabeth; and those from Carolina are North-west
river. North river, Pasquotank, Little river, and Pequimons.

There is one remarkable part of the Dismal, lying to the south of the line,
that has few or no trees growing on it, but contains a large tract of tall reeds.
These being green all the year round, and wavering with every wind, have
procured it the name of the Green sea. We are not yet acquainted with the
precise extent of the Dismal, the whole having never been surveyed ; but it
may be computed at a medium to be about thirty miles long and ten miles
broad, though where the line crossed it, it was completely fifteen miles wide.
But it seems to grow narrower towards the north, or at least does so in many
places. The exhalations that continually rise from this vast body of mire and
nastiness infect the air for many miles round, and render it very unwhole-
some for the bordering inhabitants. It makes them liable to agues, pleurisies,
and many other distempers, that kill abundance of people, and make the rest
look no better than ghosts. It would require a great sum of money to drain
it, but the public treasure could not be better bestowed, than to preserve the
lives of his majesty's liege people, and at the same time render so great a
tract of swamp very profitable, besides the advantage of making a channel
to transport by water carriage goods from Albemarle sound into Nansemond
and Elizabeth rivers, in Virginia.

24th. This beuig Sunday, we had a numerous congregation, which flocked
to our quarters from all the adjacent country. The news that our surveyors
were come out of the Dismal, increased the number very much, because it
would give them an opportunity of guessing, at least, whereabouts the line
would cut, whereby they might form some judgment whether they belonged
to Virginia or Carolina. Those who had taken up land within the disputed
bounds were in great pain lest it should be found to lie in Virginia ; because
this being done contrary to an express order of that government, the patentees
had great reason to fear they should in that case have lost their land. But

THE DIVIDING LINE. 27'

their apprehensions were now at an end, when they understood that all the
territory which had been controverted was like to be left in Carolina. In the
afternoon, those who were to re-enter the Dismal were furnished with the ne-
cessary provisions, and ordered to repair the over-night to their landlord, Pe-
ter Brinkley's, that they might be ready to begin their business early on
Monday morning. Mr. Irvin was excused from the fatigue, in compliment to
•his lungs ; but Mr. Mayo and Mr. Swan were robust enough to return upon
that painful service, and, to do them justice, they went with great alacrity.
The truth was, they now knew the worst of it ; and could guess pretty near
at the time when they might hope to return to land again.

25th. The air was chilled this morning with a smart north-west wind,
which favoured the DismaJites in their dirty march. They returned by the
path they had made in coming out, and with great industry arrived in the
evening at the spot where the line had been discontinued. After so long and
laborious a journey, they were glad to repose themselves on their couches of
cypress-bark, where their sleep was as sweet as it would have been on a bed
of Finland down. In the mean time, we who stayed behind had nothing to
do, but to make the best observations we could upon that part of the country.
The soil of our landlord's plantation, though none of the best, seemed more
fertile than any thereabouts, where the ground is near as sandy as the deserts
of Africa, arid consequently barren. The road leading from thence to Eden-
ton, being in distance about twenty-seven miles, lies upon a ridge called
Sandy ridge, which is so wretchedly poor that it will not bring potatoes. The
pines in this part of the country are of a different species from those that
grow in Virginia: their bearded leaves are much longer and their cones much
larger. Each cell contains a seed of the size and figure of a black-eye pea,
which, shedding in November, is very good mast for hogs, and fattens them
in a short time. The smallest of these pines are full of cones, which are
eight or nine inches long, and each affords commonly sixty or seventy seeds.
This kind of mast has the advantage of all other, by being more constant,
and less liable to ])e nipped by the frost, or eaten by the caterpillars. The
trees also abound more with turpentine, and consequently yield more tar,
than either the yellow or the white pine; and for the same reason make
more durable timber for building. The inhabitants hereabouts pick up knots
of lightwood in abundance, which they burn into tar, and then carry it to
Norfolk or Nansemond for a market. The tar made in this method is the less
valuable, because it is said to burn the cordage, though it is full as good for
all other uses, as that made in Sweden and Muscovy. Surely there is no
place in the world where the inhabitants live with less labour than in North
Carolina. It approaches nearer to the description of Lubberland than any
other, by tlie great felicity of the climate, the easiness of raising provisions,
and the slothfulness of the people. Indian corn is of so great increase, that
a little pains will subsist a very large fiimily with bread, and then they may
have meat without any pains at all, by the help of the low grounds, and the great
variety of mast that grows on tlic high land. The men, for their parts, just
like the Indians, impose all the work upon the poor women. They make their
wives rise out of their beds early in the morning, at the same time that tiiey
lie and snore, till the sun has risen one third of his course, and dispersed all
the unwholesome damps. Then, after stretching and yawning fov half an
hour, they light their pipes, and, under the protection of a cloud of smoke,
venture out into the open air; though, if it happens to be never so little cold,
they quickly return shivering into th(> chimney corner. When the weather is
mild, they stand leaning with both their arms \ipon the corn-field fence, and
gravely consider whether they had b(\st go and take a small heat at the hoe :
but generally find reasons to put it ofV till another time. Thus they loiter

28 THE HISTORY OF

away their lives, like Solomon's sluggard, with their arms across, and at the
winding up of the year scarcely have bread to eat. To speak the truth, it is
a thorough aversion to labor that makes people file off to North Carolina,
where plenty and a warm sun confirm them in their disposition to laziness for
their whole lives.

26th. Since we were like to be confined to this place, till the people re-
turned out of the Dismal, it was agreed that our chaplain might safely take
a turn to Edenton, to preach the Gospel to the infidels there, and christen
their children. He was accompanied thither by Mr. Little, one of the Caro-
lina commissioners, who, to show his regard for the church, offered to treat
him on the road with a fricassee of rum. They fried half a dozen rashers of
very fat bacon in a pint of rum, both which being dished up together, served
the company at once both for meat and drink. Most of the rum they get in
this country comes from New England, and is so bad and unwholesome, that
it is not improperly called " kill-devil." It is distilled there from foreign
molasses, which, if skilfully managed, yields near gallon for gallon. Their
molasses comes from the same country, and has the name of " long sugar"
in Carolina, I suppose from the ropiness of it, and serves all the purposes of
sugar, both in their eating and drinking. When they entertain their friends
bountifully, they fail not to set before them a capacious bowl of Bombo, so
called from the admiral of that name. This is a compound of rum and wa-
ter in equal parts, made palatable with the said long sugar. As good humour
begins to flow, and the bowl to ebb, they take care to replenish it with sheer
rum, of which there always is a reserve under the table. But such generous
doings happen only when that balsam of life is plenty; for they have often
such melancholy times, that neither landgraves nor cassiques can procure one
drop for their wives, when they lie in, or are troubled with the colic or
vapours. Very few in this country have the industry to plant orchards,
which, in a dearth of rum, might supply them with much better liquor. The
truth is, there is one inconvenience that easily discourages lazy people from
making this improvement : very often, in autumn, when the apples begin to
ripen, they are visited with numerous flights of paroquets, that bite all the
fruit to pieces in a moment, for the sake of the kernels. The havoc they
make is sometimes so great, that whole orchards are laid waste in spite of all
the noises that can be made, or mawkins that can be dressed up, to fright
them away. These ravenous birds visit North Carolina only during the
warm season, and so soon as the cold begins to come on, retire back towards
the sun. They rarely venture so far north as Virginia, except in a very hot
summer, when they visit the most southern parts of it. They are very beau-
tiful ; but like some other pretty creatures, are apt to be loud and mischievous.

27th, Betwixt this and Edenton there are many whortleberry slashes,
which afford a convenient harbour for wolves and foxes. The first of these
wild Ijeasts is not so lai'ge and fierce as they are in other counti'ies more
northerly. He will not attack a man in the keenest of his hunger, but run
away from him, as from an animal more mischievous than himself The
foxes are much bolder, and will sometimes not only make a stand, but like-
wise assault any one that would balk them of their prey. The inhabitants
hereabouts take the trouble to dig abundance of wolf-pits, so deep and per-
pendicular, that when a wolf is once tempted into them, he can no more
scramble out again, than a husband who has taken the leap can scram-
ble out of matrimony. Most of the houses in this part of the country are
log-houses, covered with pine or cypress shingles, three feet long, and one
broad. They are hung upon laths with pegs, and their doors too turn upon
wooden hinges, and have wooden locks to secure them, ao that the building
is finished without nails or other iron work. They also set up their pale*

THE DIVIDING LINE. 29

witliout any nails at all, and indeed more securely than those that are nailed.
There are three rails mortised into the posts, the lowest of which serves as
a sill with a groove in the middle, big enough to receive the end of the pales :
the middle part of the pale rests against the inside of the next rail, and the
top of it is brought forward to the outside of the uppermost. Such wreath-
ing of the pales in and out makes them stand firm, and much harder to unfix
than when nailed in the ordinary way.

Within three or four miles of Edenton, the soil appears to be a little more
fertile, though it is much cut with slashes, which seem all to have a tendency
towards the Dismal. This town is situated on the north side of Albemarle
sound, which is there about five miles over. A dirty slash runs all along the
back of it, which in the summer is a foul annoyance, and furnishes abundance
of that Carolina plague, mosquitoes. There may be forty or fifty houses,
most of them small, and built without expense. A citizen here is counted
extravagant, if he has ambition enough to aspire to a brick chimney. Justice
herself is but indifferently lodged, the court-house having much the air of a
common tobacco-house. 1 betieve this is the only metropolis in the Christian
or Mahometan world, where there is neither church, chai^el, mosque, syna-
gogue, or any other place of public worship of any sect or religion whatsc-
ever. What little devotion there may happen to be is much more private
than their vices. The people seem easy without a minister, as long as they
are exempted from paying him. Sometimes the Society for propagating the
Gospel has had the charity to send over missionaries to this country ; but
unfortunately the priest has been too lewd for the people, or, which oftener
happens, they too lewd for the priest. For these reasons these reverend
gentlemen have always left their flocks as arrant heathen as they found
them. Thus much however may be said for the inhabitants of Edenton, that
not a soul has the least taint of hyprocrisy, or superstition, acting very frank-
ly and above-board in all their excesses.

Provisions here are extremely cheap, and extremely good, so that people
may live plentifully at a trifling expense. Nothing is dear but law, physic,
and strong drink, which are alF bad in their kind, and the last they get with
sj much difficulty, that they are never guilty of the sin of suffering it to sour
upon their hands. Tlieir vanity generally lies not so much in having a hand-
some dining-room, as a handsome house of office: in this kind of structure
they are really extravagant They are rarely guilty of flattering or making
any court to their governors, but treat them witii all the excesses of freedom
and familiarity. They are of opinion their rulers would be apt to grow inso-
lent, if they grew rich, and for that reason take care to keep them poorer,
and' more dependent, if possible, than the saints in New England used to
do their governors. They have very little corn, so they are forced to carry
on their home traffic with paper money. This is the only cash that will tariy
in the country, and for tliat reason the discount goes on increasing between
that and real money, and will do so to the end of the chapter.

28th. Our time passed heavily in our quarters, where we were quite cloyed
with the Carolina felicity of having nothing to do. It was really more insup-
portable than the greatest fatigue, and made us even envy tlie drudgery of
our friends in the Dismal. JJesides, though the men we had with us were
kept in exact discipline, and behaved without reproach, yet our landlord
began to be tired of them, fearing they would broeil a famine in his lamily.
Indeed, so many keen stomachs made gn^at havoc anuuigst the l)eef and
bacon which he had laid in for his .sununer provision, nor could he easily
purchase more, at that time of the year, witli tlie money we paid him, l)e-
cause people having no certain market seldom provide any more of these
commodities than will barely supi)ly their own occasions. iiesidos the

5

30 THE HiSTOnY OF

weather was now grown too warm to lay In a fresh stock so late in the spring.
These considerations abated somewhat of that cheerfulness with whicli he bade
ns welcome in the beginning, and made him think tlie time quite as long as we
did until the surveyors returned. While we were thus all hands uneasy, we
were comforted with the news that this afternoon the line was finished
through the Dismal. The messenger told us it had been the hard work of
three days to measure the length of only live miles, and mark the trees as
they passed along, and by the most exact survey they found the breadth of the
Dismal in this place to be completely fifteen miles. How wide it may be in
other parts, we can give no account, but believe it grows narrower towards
the north ; possibly towards Albemarle sound it may be something broader,
where so many rivers issue out of it. All we know for certain is, that from
the place where the line entered the Dismal, to whei'e it came out, we found
fhe road round that portion of it which belonged to Virginia to be about
sixty-five miles. How great the distance may be from each of those points,
round that part that falls within the bounds of Carolina, we had no certain
information : though it is conjectured it cannot be so little as thirty miles.
At which rate the whole circuit must be aboiit a hundred. What a mass of
mud and dirt is treasured up within this filthy circumference, and what a
quantity of water must perpetually drain into it from the rising ground that
surrounds it on every side 1 Without taking the exact level of the Dismal,
we may be sure that it declines towards the places where the several rivers
take their rise, in order to carrying off the constant supplies of water. Were
it not for such discharges, the whole swamp would long since have been
converted into a lake. «Dn the other side this declension must be very gentle,
else it would be laid perfectly dry by so many continual drains ; whereas, on the
contrary, the ground seems every where to be thoroughly drenched even in
the driest season of the year. The surveyors concluded this day's work
with running twenty-five chains up into the firm land, where they waited
further orders from the commissioners.

29th. This day the surveyors proceeded with the line no more than one
mile and fifteen chains, being interrupted by a mill swamp, through which
they made no difficulty of wading, in order to make their work more exact.
Thus, like Norway mice, these worthy gentlemen went right forward, with-
out suffering themselves to be turned out of the way by any obstacle whatever.
We are told by some travellers, that those mice march in mighty armies,
destroying all the fruits of the earth as they go along. But something
peculiar to those obstinate little animals is, that nothing stops them in their
career, and if a house happen to stand in their way, disdaining to go an inch
about, they crawl up one side of it, and down the other : or if "they meet
with any river, or other body of water, they are so determined, that they
swim directly over it, without -\-arying one point from their course for the
sake of any safety or convenience. The surveyors were also hindered
some time by setting up posts in the great road, -to show the bounds between
the two colonies..

Our chaplain returned to us in the evening from Edenton, in company
with the Carolina commissioners. He had preached there in the court-house,
for want of a consecrated place, and made no less than nineteen of father
Hennepin's Christians.

By the permission of the Carolina commissioners, Mr. Swan was allowed
to go home, as soon as the survey of the Dismal was finished ; he met with
this indulgence for a reason that might very wtcII have excused his com.ing
at all ; namely, that he was lately married. What remained of the drudgeiy
for this season was left to Mr. Mosel.y, who had hitlicrto acted only in the
eapadty of a commissioner. They offered to employ Mi-. Joseph Mayo as

THE DIVIDING LU'E. 3|

their surveyor in Mr. Swan's stead, but he thought it not proper to accept of
it, because lie had liitherto acted as a volunteer in behalf of Vij'ginia, and
did not care to change sides, though it might have been to his advantage.

30th. The line was advanced this day six miles and thirty-five chains, the
woods being pretty clear, and interrupted with no swamp, or other wet ground.
The land hereabout had all the marks of poverty, being for the most part sandy
and full of pines'. This kind of ground, though unfit for ordinary tillage, will
however bring cotton and pototoes in plenty, and consequently food and
raiment to such as are easily contented, and, like the wild Irish, find more
pleasure in laziness than luxury. It also makes a shift to produce Indian corn,
rather by the felicity of the climate than by the fertility of the soil. They
who aremore industrious than their neighbours may make what quantity ot
tar they please, though indeed they are not always sure of a market for it.
The method of burning tar in Sweden and Muscovy succeeds not well in
this warmer part of the world. It seems they kill the pine trees, by barking
them quite round at a certain height, which in those cold countries brings
down the turpentine into the stump in a year's time. But experience has
taught us that in warm climates the turpentine will not so easil}^ descend,
but is either fixed in the upper parts of the tree, or fried out by the intense
heat of the sun.

Care was taken to erect a post in every road that our line ran through,
with Virginia carved on the north side of it, and Carolina on the south, that
the bounds might every where appear. In the evening the surveyors took
up their quarters at the house of one Mr. Parker, who, by the advantage of a
better spot of land than ordinary, and a more industrious wife, lives com-
fortably, and has a very neat plantation.

31st. It rained a little this morning, but this, happening again upon a
Sunday, did not interrupt our business. However the surveyors made no
scruple of protracting and plotting olf their work u[)on that good day, be-
cause it was rather an anuisemcnt than a drudgery. Here the men feasted
on the fat of the land, and Ijelieving the dirtiest part of their work was over,
had a more than ordinary gaiety of heart. We christened two of oui- landlord's
children, which might have i-emained infidels all their lives, had not we car-
ried Christianity home to his own door. The truth of it is, oui- neighbours of
North Carolina are not so zealous as to go nuich out of their way to procure
this benefit for their children : otherwise, being so near Virginia, they might,
without exceeding much trouble, make a journey to the next clergyman,
upon so good an errand. And indeed should the neighbouring ministers,
once in two or three years, vouchsafe to take a turn among these gentiles,
to baptize them and their children, it would look a little apostolical, and they
might hope to be recjuited for at hereafter, if that be not thought too long to
tarry l()r their reward.

April 1st. The surveyors getting now upon better ground, quite disengaged
from underwoods, pushed on the line almost twelve miles. They left Som-
merton chapel near two miles to the nortiiwards; so that there was now no
place of pul)lic worship left in the whole province of Korth Carolina.

Tlu; high land f)f North Carolina was l)arren, and covered with a deep
sand; and the low grounds were wet and boggy, iiisonuu-h that several of
our horses were mired, and gave us frequent opportunities t(> show our
hor.semanshi|).

The line cut William Si)iglit's phuitation in two, leaving \\{i]c niorelhtn
his dwelling house and orchard in Virginia. Sundry other plantations were
split in the saiM(> unlucky manner, which made the owners accountable to
both govcnnnents. \\ In revcr we passcil \\e constantly found the bordt^fra
laid it to heart if their lauil was taken into Virginia : they chose much rather

S2

THE HISTORY OF

to belong to Carolina, where they pay no tribute, either to God or to Caesar.
Another ^-eason was, that the government there is so loose, and the laws are
so feebly executed, that, like those in the neighbourhood of Sidon formerly,
every one does just what seems good in his own eyes. If the governor's
hands have been weak in that province, under the authority of the lords pro-
prietors, much weaker then were the hands of the magistrate, who, though
he might have had virtue enough to endeavour to punish offenders, which
very rarely happened, yet that virtue had been quite impotent, for want of
ability to put it in execution. Besides, there might have been some danger,
perhaps, in venturing to be so rigorous, for fear of undergoing the fate of an
honest justice in Coratuck precinct. This bold magistrate, it seems, taking
upon him to order a fellow to the stocks, for being disorderly in his drink,
was, for his intemperate zeal, carried thither himself, and narrowly escaped
being whipped by the rabble into the bargain.

This easy day's work carried the line to the banks of Somerton creek,
that runs out of Chowan river, a little below the mouth of Nottoway.

2d. In less than a mile from Somerton creek the line was carried to Black-
water, which is the name of the upper part of Chowan, running some miles
above the mouth of Nottoway. It must be observed that Chowan, after
taking a compass round the most beautiful part of North Carolina, empties itself
into Albemarle sound, a few mDes above Edenton. The tide flows seven or
eight miles higher than where the river changes its name, and is navigable
thus h^igh for a^y small vessel. Our line intersected it exactly half a mile to
the northward of Nottoway. However, in obedience to his majesty's com-
mand, we directed the surveyors to come down the river as far as the mouth
of Nottoway, in order to continue our true west line from thence. Thus we
found the mouth of Nottoway to lie no more than half a minute farther to the
northward than Mr. Lawson had formerly done. That gentleman's observa-
tion, it seems, placed it in 36' 30', and our working made it out to be 36°
30^' — a very inconsiderable variance.

The surveyors crossed the river over against the middle of the mouth of
Nottoway, where it was about eighty yards wide. From thence they ran the
line about half a mile through a dirty pocoson, as far as an Indian field.
Here we took up our lodging in a moist situation, having the pocoson above
mentioned on one side of us, and a swamp on the other.

In this camp three of the Meherrin Indians made us a visit. They told us
that the small remains of their nation had deserted their ancient town, situated
near the mouth of the Meherrin river, for fear of the Catawbas, who had killed
fourteen of their people the year before ; and the few that survived that cala-
mity, had -taken refuge amongst the English, on the east side of Chowan.
Though, if the complaint of these Indians were true, they are hardly used by
our Carohna- friends. But they are the less to be pitied, because they have
ever been reputed the most false and treacherous to the English of all the
Indians in the neighbourhood.

Not far from the place where we lay, I observed a large oak which had
been blown up by the roots, the body of which was shivered into perfect
strings, and was, in truth, the most violent effects of lightning I ever saw.

But the most curious instance of that dreadful meteor happened at York,
where a man was killed near a pine tree in which the lightning made a hole
before it struck the man, and left an exact figure of the tree upon his breast,
with all its branches, to the wonder of all that beheld it, in which I shall be
more particular hereafter.

We made another trial of the variation in this place, and found it some
minutes less than we had done at Coratuck inlet ; but so small a difference
might easily happen through some defect in one or other of the obgervations,
and, therefore, we altered not our compass for the matter.

THE DIVIDING LINE. 33

3d. By the advantage of clear woods, the Ihie was extended twelve miles
and three quarters, as far as the banks of Meherrin. Though the mouth of
this river lies fifteen miles below the mouth of Nottoway, yet it winds so much
to the northward, that we came upon it, after running this small distance.

During the first seven miles, we observed the soil to be poor and sandy ;
but as we approached Meherrin it grew better, though there it was cut to
pieces by sundry miry branches, which discharge themselves into that river.
Several of our horses plunged up to the saddle skirts, and were not dis-
engaged without difficulty.

The latter part of our day's work was pretty laborious, because of the
unevenness of the way, and because the low ground of the river was full of
cypress snags, as sharp and dangerous to our horses as so many chevaux-de-
frise. We found the whole distance from the mouth of Nottoway to Meherrin
river, where our line intersected it, thirteen miles and a quarter.

It was hardly possible to find a level large enough on the banks of the
river whereupon to pitch our tent. But though the situation was, on that
account, not very convenient for us, yet it was fur our poor horses, by
reason of the plenty of small reeds on which they fed voraciously. These
reeds are green here all the year round, and will keep cattle in tolerable
good plight during the winter. But whenever the hogs come where they
are, they destroy them in a short time, by ploughing up their roots, of which,
unluckily, they are very fond.

The river was in this place about as wide as the river Jordan, that is,
forty yards, and would be navigable very high for flat bottom boats and
canoes, if it were not choked up with large trees, brought down by every
fresh. Though the banks were full twenty feet high from the surface of the
water, yet we saw certain marks of their having been overflowed.

These narrow rivers that run high up into the country are subject to fre-
quent inundations, when the waters are i'olled down with such violence as to
carry all before them. The logs that are then floated, are very fatal to the
bridges built over these rivers, which can hardly be contrived strong enough to
stand against so much weight and violence joined together.

The Isle of Wight county begins about three miles to the east of Meherrin
river, being divided from that of Nansemond only by a line of marked trees.

4th. The river was here hardly fordable, though the season had been very
dry. The banks too were so steep that our horses were forced to climb like
mules to get up them. Nevertheless we had the luck to recover the opposite
shore without damage.

We halted for half an hour at Charles Anderson's, who lives on the western
bank of the river, in order to christen one of his children. In the mean time,
the surveyors extended the line two miles and thirty-nine chains, in which
small distance Meherrin river was so serpentine, that they crossed it three
times. Then we went on to Mr. Kinchin's, a man of figure and authority in
North Carolina, who lives about a mile to the southward of the place where
the surveyors left off. By the benefit of a little pains, and gooil management,
this worthy magistrate lives in much afiluence. Amongst other in.stances of
his industry, he had planted a good orchard, which is not connnon in that
indolent climate; nor is it at all strange, that such improvident people, who
take no thought for the morrow, should .save themselves the trouble to make
improvements that will not pay them for several years to come. Though, if
they could trust fiiturity for any thing, they certainly would for cider, which
they arc so fond of, that they generally drink it before it has done working,
lest the fermentation might unluckily turn it sour.

It is an observation, which rarely fails of being true, both in Virginia and
Carolina, that those who take care to plant good orchards are, in their ge-

34

THE HISTORY OF

neral characters, industrious people. Tliis held good in our landlord, who
had many houses built on his plantation, and every one kept in decent repair.
His wife, too, was tidy, his furniture clean, his pewter bright, and nothuig
seemed to be wanting to make his home comfortable.

Mr. Kinchin made us the compliment of his house, but because we were
willing to be as little troublesome as possible, we ordered the tent to be
pitched in his orchard, where the blossoms of the apple trees contributed not
a little to the sweetness of our lodging.

5th. Because the spring was now pretty forward, and the rattlesnakes began
to crawl out of their winter quarters, and might grow dangerous, both to the
men and their horses, it was determined to proceed no farther with the line
till the fall. Besides, the uncommon fatigue the people had undergone for
near six weeks together, and the inclination they all had to visit their respective
families, made a recess highly reasonable.

The surveyors were employed great part of the day, in forming a correct
and elegant map of the line, from Coratuck inlet to the place where they left
off. On casting up the account in the most accurate manner, they found the
whole distance" we had run to amount to seventy three miles and thirteen
chains. Of the map they made two fair copies, which agreeing exactly, were
subscribed by the commissioners of both colonies, and one of them was deli-
vered to those on tlie part of Virginia, and the other to those on the part of
North Carolina.

6th. Thus we finished our spring campaign, and having taken leave of our
Carolina friends, and agreed to meet them again the tenth of September
following, at the same Mr. Kinchin's, in order to continue the line, we crossed
Meherrin river near a quarter of a mile from the house. About ten miles
from that we halted at Mr. Kindred's plantation, where we christened two
children.

It happened that some of Isle of Wight militia were exercising in the
adjoining pasture, and there were females enough attending that martial
appearance to form a more invincible corps. Ten miles farther we passed
Nottoway river at Bolton's ferry, and took up our lodgings about three miles
from thence, at the house of Richard Parker, an honest planter, whose labours
were rewarded with plenty, which, in this country, is the constant portion of
the industrious.

7th. The next day being Sunday, we ordered notice to be sent to -all the
neighbourhood that there would be a sermon at this place, and an opportunity
of christening their children. But the likelihood of rain got the better of
their devotion, and what, perhaps, might still be a stronger motive of their
curiosity. In the morning we despatched a runner to the Nottoway town, to
let the Indians know we "intended them a visit that evening, and our honest
landlord was so kind as to be our pilot thither, being about four miles from his
house. Accordingly in the afternoon we marched in good order to the town,
where the female scouts, stationed on an eminence for that purpose, had no
sooner spied us, but they gave notice of our approach to their fellow citizens
by continual whoops and cries, which could not possibly have been more dis-
mal at the sight of their most implacable enemies. This signal assembled
all their great men, who received us in a body, and conducted us into the
fort. This fort was a square piece of ground, inclosed with substantial pun-
cheons, or strong palisades, about ten feet high, and leaning a little outwards,
to make a scalade more difficult. Each side of the square might be about a
hundred yards long, with loop-holes at proper distances, through which they
may fire upon the enemy. Within this inclosure we found bark cabins sufficient
to lodge all their people, in case they should be obliged to retire thither.
These "cabins are no other but close arbours made of saplings, arched at the

THE DIVIDING LINE. 35

top, and covered so well with bark as to be proof against all weather. The
fire is made in tlie middle, according to the Hibernian fashion, the smoke
whereof finds no other vent but at the door, and so keeps the whole family
warm, at the expense both of their eyes and complexion. The Indians have
rfo standing furniture in their cabins but hurdles to repose tlieir persons
upon, which they cover with mats and deer-skins. We were conducted to
the best apartments in the fort, which just before had been made ready for
our reception, and adorned with new mats, that were very sweet and clean;
The young men had painted themselves in a hideous manner, not so much
for ornament as terror. In that frightful equipage they entertained us with
sundry war dances, wherein they endeavoured to look as formidable as possi-
ble. The instrument they danced to was an Indian drum, that is, a large
gourd with a skin braced tight over the mouth of it. The dancers all sang to
the music, keeping exact time with their feet, while their heads and arms
were screwed into a thousand menacing postures. Upon this occasion the
ladies had arrayed themselves in all their finery. They were wrapped in
their red and blue match coats, thrown so negligently about them, that their
mahogany skins appeared in several parts, like the Lacedaemonian damsels of
old. Their hair was braided with white and blue peak, and hung gracefully
in a large roll upon their shoulders.

This peak consists of small cylinders cut out of a conch shell, drilled
through and strung like beads. It serves them both for money and jewels,
the blue being of much greater value than the white, for the same reason
that Ethiopian mistresses in France are dearer than French, because they
are more scarce. The women wear necklaces and bracelets of these pre-
cious materials, when they have a mind to appear lovely. Though their
complexions be a little sad-colouied, yet tlieir shapes are very strait and well
proportioned. Their faces are seldom handsome, yet they have an air of
innocence and bashfulness, that with a little less dirt would not fail to make
them desirable. Such charms might have had their full effect upon men who
had been so long deprived of female conversation, but that the whole winter's
soil was so crusted on the skins of those dark angels, that it required a very
strong appetite to approach them. The bear's oil, with which they anoint
their persons all over, makes their skins soft, and at the same time protects
them from every species q( vermin that use to be troublesome to other un-
cleanly people. We were unluckily so many, that they could not well make
us the compliment of bed-fellows, according to the Indian rules of hospitality,
though a grave matron whispered one of the commissioners very civilly in
the ear, that if her dauglitcr had been but one year older, she should have
been at his devotion.

It is by no means a loss of reputation among the Indians, for damsels
that are single to have intrigues with the men ; on the contrary, they account
it an argument of superior merit to be liked by a great number of gallants.
However, like the ladies that game, they are a little mercenary in their
amours, and seldom bestow their favours out of stark love and kimlness. But
after these women have once ap|iropriated their charms by niarriage, they
are from thenceforth fiithful to their vows, and will hardly ever be tempted
by an agreeable gallant, or be provoked by a brutal or even by a careless
husband to go astray. The little work that is <lon(> among the Indians is
done by the poor women, while the men arc quite idle, or at most employed
only in the gentlemanly diversions of hunting and fishing. In this, as well
a.s in thc'w wars, they use nothing but fire-arms, which they purchase of the
English for skins. Hows and arrows are grown into disuse, except only
amongst their boys. Nor i.s it ill policy, but on the contrary very prudent,
thus to furuiHh thu Indians* with fue-arms, because it makes them tleitend

36

THE HISTORY OF

entirely upon the English, not only for their trade, but even for their subsist-
ence. Besides, they were really able to do more mischief, while they made
use of arrows, of which they would let silently fly several -in a minute with
wonderful dexterity, whereas now they hardly ever discharge their fire-locks
more than once, which they insidiously do from behind a tree, and theft
retire as ninibly as the Dutch horse used to do now and tljen formerly in
Flanders. We put the Indians to no expense, but only of a little corn for
our horses, for which in gratitude we cheered their hearts with what rum we
had left, which they love better than they do their wives and children. Though
these Indians dwell among the English, and see in what plenty a little indus-
try enables them to live, yet tlsey choose to continue in their stupid idleness,
and to suffer all the inconveniences of dirt, cold and want, rather than to dis-
turb their heads with care, or defile their hands with labour.

The whole number of people belonging to the Nottoway town, if you in-
clude women and children, amount to about two hundred. These are the
only Indians of any consequence now remaining within the limits of Virgi-
nia. The rest are either removed, or dwindled to a very inconsiderable num-
ber, either by destroying one another, or else by the small-pox and other dis-
eases. Though nothing has been so fatal to them as their ungovernable
passion for rum, with which, I am sorry to say it, they have been but too
liberally supplied by the English that live near them. And here I must la-
ment the bad success Mr. Boyle's charity has hitherto had towards convert-
ing any of these poor heathens to Christianity. Many children of our neigh-
bouring Indians have been brought up in the college of William and Mary.
They have been taught to read and write, and have been carefully instructed in
the principles of the Christian religion, till they came to be men. Yet after they
returned home, instead of civilizing and converting the rest, they have imme-
diately relapsed into infidelity and barljarism themselves.

And some of them too have made the worst use of the knowledge they
acquired among the English, by employing it against their benefactors.
Besides, as they unhappily forget all the good they learn, and remember the
ill, they are apt to be more vicious and disorderly than the rest of their coun-
trymen. I ought not to quit this subject without doing justice to the great
prudence of colonel Spotswood in this affair. That gentleman was lieutenant
governor of Virginia when Carolina was engaged in a bloody war with the
Indians. At that critical time it was thought expedient to keep a watchful eye
upon our tributary savages, who we knew had nothing to keep them to their
duty but their fears. Then it was that he demanded of each nation a compe-
tent number of their great men's children to be sent to the college, where they
served as so many hostages for the good behaviour of the rest, and at the same
time were themselves principled in the Christian religion. He also placed a school
master among the Saponi Indians, at the salary of fifty pounds per annum, to
instruct their children. The person that undertook that charitable work was
Mr. Charles Griffin, a man of a good family, who, by the innocence of his
life, and the sweetness of his temper, was perfectly well qualified for that pious
undertaking. Besides, he had so much the secret of mixing pleasure with
instruction, that he had not a scholar who did not love him affectionately.
Such talents must needs have been blest with a proportionable success, had
he not been unluckily removed to the college, by which he left the good work
he had begun unfinished. In short, all the pains he had taken among the infi-
dels had no other effect but to make them something cleanlier than other
Indians are. The care colonel Spotswood took to tincture the Indian children
with Christianity produced the following epigram, which was not published
during his administration, for fear it might then have looked like flattery.

lore, ^

THE DIVIDING LINK. 37

Long has the furious priest assayed in rain,

With sword and faggot, infidels to gain,
But now the milder soldier wisely tries
By gentler methods to unveil their eyes.
Wonders apart, he knew 'twere vain t'engage
The fix'd preventions of misguided age.
With fairer hopes he forms the Indian youth
To early manners, probity and truth.
The lion's whelp thus, on the Lybian shon
Is tamed and gentled by the artful Moor,
Not the grim sire, inured to blood before.

I am sorry I cannot give a better account of the state of the poor Indians
with respect to Christianity, although a great deal of pains has been and still
continues to be taken with them. For my part, I must be of opinion, as I
hinted before, that there is but one way of converting these poor infidels,
and reclaiming them from barbarity, and that is, charitably to intermarry
with them, according to the modern policy of the most Christian king in
Canada and Louisiana. Had the English done this at the first settlement of
the colony, the infidelity of the Indians had been worn out at this day, with
their dark complexions, and the country had swarmed with people more than
it does with insects. It was certainly an unreasonable nicety, that prevented
their entering into so good-natured an alliance. All nations of men have
the same natural dignity, and we all know that very bright talents may be
lodged under a very dark skin. The principal difierence between one people
and another proceeds only from the different opportunities of improvement.
The Indians by no means want understanding, and are in their figure tall
and well-proportioned. Even their copper-coloured complexion would admit
of blanching, if not in the first, at the farthest in the second generation. I
may safely venture to say, the Indian women would have made altogether
as honest wives for the first planters, as tlie damsels they used to purchase
from aboard the ships. It is strange, therefore, that any good Christian
should have refused a wholesome, straight bed-fellow, when he might have
had so fair a portion with her, as the merit of saving her soul.

8th. We rested on our clean mats very comfortably, though alone, and the
next morning went to the toilet of some of the Indian ladies, where, what
with the charms of their persons and the smoke of their apartments, we
were almost blinded. They oflered to give us silk-grass baskets of their
own making, which we modestly refused, knowing that an Indian present,
like that of a nun, is a liberality put out to interest, and a bribe placed to the
greatest advantage. Our chaplain observed with concern, that the ruffles of
some of our fellow travellers were a little discoloured with pochoon, where-
with the good man had been told those ladies used to improve their invisible

charms.

About 10 o'clock we marched out of town in good order, and the war
captains saluted us with a volley of small arms. From thence we proceeded
over Black-water bridge to colonel Henry Harrison's, where we congratulated
each other upon our return into Christendom.

Thus ended our progress for this season, which we may justly say was
attended with all the success that could be expected. F.esides the punctual
performance of what was committed to us, we had the i)lcasure to bring
back every one of our company in perfect health. And this we mast ac-
knowledge to be a singular blessing, considering the difficulties and dangers
to which they had been exposed. We had reason to fear the many waters
and sunken grounds, through which wo wen- ohligf^l to wade, might have

F

38 THE HISTORY OF

thrown the men into sundry acute distempers; especially the Dismal, where
the soil was so full of water, and the air so full of damps, that nothing but a
Dutchman could live in them. Indeed the foundation of all our success was
the exceeding dry season. It rained during the whole journey but rarely,
and then, as when Herod built his temple, only in the night or upon the sab-
bath, when it was no hinderance at all to our progress.

September. The teath of September being thought a little too soon for the
commissioners to meet, in order to proceed on the line, on account of snakes,
it was agreed to put it off to the twentieth of the same month, of which due
notice was sent to the Carohna commissioners.

Sept. 19. We, on the part of Virginia, that we might be sare to be punctual,
arrived at Mr. Kinchin's, the place appointed, on the nineteenth, after a jour-
ney of three days, in which nothing remarkable happened. We found three
of the Carolina commissioners had taken possession of the house, having
come thitlier by water from Edenton. By the great quantity of provisions
the?e gentlemen brought, and the few men they had to eat them, we were
afraid they intended to carry the line to the South sea. They had five hun-
dred pounds of bacon and dried beef, and five hundred pounds of biscuit,
and not above three or four men. The misfortune was, they forgot to
provide horses to carry their good things, or else trusted to the uncertainty
of hiring them here, which, considering the place, was leaving too much
to that jilt, hazard. On our part we had taken better care, being completely
furnished with every thing necessary for transporting our baggage and
protj^isions. Indeed we brought no other provisions out with us but a thou-
sand pounds of bread, and had faith enough to depend on Providence for
our meat, being desirous to husband the public money as much as possible.
We had no less than tv/enty men, besides the chaplain, the surveyors and
all the servants, to be subsisted upon this bread. However, that it might
hold out th» better, our men had been ordered to provide themselves at
home with provision for ten days, in which time we judged we should get
beyond the inhabitants, where forest game of all sorts was like to be plenty
at that time of the year.

20th. This being the day appointed for our rendezvous, great part of it
was spent in the careful fixing our baggage and assembling our men, who
were ordered to meet us here. We took care to examine their arms, and
made proof of the powder provided for the expedition. Our provision-horses
had been hindered by the rain from coming up exactly at the day ; but this
delay was the less disappointment, by reason of the ten days' subsistence the
men had been directed to provide for themselves. Mr. Moseley did not join
us till the afternoon, nor Mr. Swan till several days after.

Mr. Kinchin had unadvisedly sold the men a little brandy of his own
making, whieh produced much disorder, causing some to be too choleric, and
others too loving ; insomuch that a damsel, who assisted in the kitclien, had
certainly suffered what the nuns call martyrdom, had she not capitulated a
little too soon. This outrage would have called for some severe discipline,
had she not bashfully withdrawn herself early in the morning, and so carried
off the evidence.

21st. We despatched away the surveyors without loss of time, who, with
all their diligence, could carry the line no farther than three miles and a
hundred and seventy-six poles, by reason the low ground was one entire
thicket. In that distance they crossed Meherrin river the fourth time. In
the mean while the Virginia commissioners thought proper to conduct their
baggage a farther way about, for the convenience of a clearer road.

The Carolina gentlemen did at length, more by fortune than forecast, hire
a clumsy vehicle, something like a cart, to transport their effects as far as

THE DIVIDING LINE. 39

Roanoke. This wretched machine, at first setting out, met with a very rude
choque, that broke a case-bottle of cherry brandy in so unlucky a manner
that not one precious drop was saved. This melancholy beginning foreboded
an unprosperous journey, and too quick a return, to the persons most imme-
diately concerned.

In our way we crossed Fountain creek, which runs into Meherrin river,
so called from the disaster of an unfortunate Indian trader v/ho had formerly
been drowned in it, and, like Icarus, lej^ his name to that fatal stream. We
took up our quarters on the plantation of John Hill, where we pitched our
tent, with design to tarry till such time as the surveyors could work their
way to us.

22d. This being Sunday, we had an opportunity of resting from our la-
bours. The expectation of such a novelty as a sermon in these parts
brought together a numerous congregation. When the sermon was over,
our chaplain did his part towards making eleven of them Christians.

Several of our men had intermitting fevers, but were soon restored to
their health again by proper remedies. Our chief medicine was dogwood
bai-k, which we used, instead of that of Peru, with good success. Indeed, it
was given in larger quantity, but then, to make the patients amends, they
swallowed much fewer doses.

In the afternoon our provision horses arrived safe in the camp. They had
met with very heavy rains, but, thank God, not a single biscuit received tl.e
least damage thereby. We were furnished by the neighbours with very
lean cheese and very fat mutton, upon which occasion it will not be improper
to draw one conclusion, from the evidence of North Carolina, that shceji
would thrive much better in the woods than in pasture land, provided a care-
ful shepherd were employed to keep them from straying, and, by the help of
dogs, to protect them also from the wolves.

23d. The surveyors came to us at night, though they had not brought the
line so far as our camp, for which reason we thought it needless to go for-
ward till they came up with us. Tiicy could run no more than four miles and
five poles, because the ground was every where grown up with thick bushes.
The soil here appeared to be very good, though much broken betwixt Foun-
tain creek and Roanoke river. The line crossed Meherrhi river the fifth and
last time, nor were our people sorry to part with a stream the meanders of
which had given them so much trouble.

Our hunters brought us four wild turkeys, which at that season began to
be fat and very delicious, especially the hens. These birds seem to be of the
bustard kind, and fly heavily. Some of them are exceedingly large, and weigh
upwards of forty pounds ; nay, some bold historians venture to say, upwards
of fifty pounds. They run very fast, stretching forth their wings all the time,
like the ostrich, by way of sails to quicken their speed. They roost commonly
upon very high trees, standing near some river or creek, and are so stupified
at the sight of fire, that if you make a blaze in the night near the place
Avhere they roost, you may fire upon them several times successively, before
they will dare to fly away. Their spurs are so sharp and strong, that the
Indians used formerly to point their arrows with them, though now they
point them with a sharp white stone. In the spring the turkey-cocks begin
to gobble, wliich is the language wherein they make love.

It rained vciy hard in the night, with a violent storm of thunder and light-
ning, which obliged us to trench in our tent all round, to carry olf the water
that fell upon it.

24th. So soon as the men could dry their blankets, we sent out the survey-
ors, who now meeting with more favourable grounds, advanced the line seven
miles and eighty-two poles. However, the commissioners did not think proper
to decamp that day, believing they might easily overtake the surveyors the

40 THE HISTORY OF

next. In the mean time they sent out some of their most expert gunners,
who brought in four more wild turkeys.

This part of the country being very proper for raising cattle and hogs, we
observed the inhabitants lived in great plenty without killing themselves with
labour. I found near our camp some plants of that kind of rattle-snake root,
called star-grass. The leaves shoot out circularly, and grow horizontally
and near the ground. The root is in shape not unlike the rattle of that ser-
pent, and is a strong antidote against the bite of it. It is very bitter, and
wiiere it meets with any poison, works by violent sweats, but where it meets
with none, has no sensible operation but that of putting the spirits into a
great hurry, and so of promoting perspiration. The rattle-snake has an utter
antipathy to this plant, insomuch that if you smear your hands with the juice
of it, you ma;^ handle the viper safely. Thus much I can say on my own
experience, that once in July, when these snakes are in their greatest vigour,
I besmeared a dog's nose with the powder of this root, and made him tram-
ple on a large snake several times, which, however, was so far from biting
him, that it perfectly sickened at the dog's approach, and turned its head
from him with the utmost aversion.

Our chaplain, to show his zeal, made an excursion of six mUes to christen
two children, but without the least regard to the good cheer at these so-
lemnities.

25th. The surveyors, taking the advantage of clear woods, pushed on the
line seven miles and forty poles. In the mean time the commissioners marched
with the baggage about twelve miles, and took up their quarters near the
banks of the Beaver pond, (which is one branch of Fountain creek,) just by
the place where the surveyors were to finish their day's work. In our march
one of the men killed a small rattle-snake, which had no more than two rat-
tles. Those vipers remain in vigour generally till towards the end of Sep-
tember, or sometimes later, if the weather continue a little warm. On this
consideration we had provided three several sorts of rattle-snake root, made
up into proper doses, and ready for immediate use, in case any one of the
men or their horses had been bitten. We crossed Fountain creek once more
in our journey this day, and found the grounds very rich, notwithstanding
they were broken and stony. iN'ear the place where we encamped the
county of Brunswick is divided from the Isle of Wight. These counties run
quite on the back of Surry and Prince George, and are laid out in very ir-
regular figures. As a proof the land mended hereabouts, we found the plan-
tations began to grow thicker by much than we had found them lower down.

26th. We hurried away the .surveyors without loss of time, who extended the
line ten miles and a hundred and sixty poles, the grounds proving dry and free
from under- woods. By the way the chain-carriers killed two more rattle-snakes,
which I own was a Uttle ungrateful, because two or three of the men had
strided over them without receiving any hurt ; though one of these vipers
had made bold to strike at one of the baggage horses, as he went along, but
by good luck his teeth only grazed on the hoof, without doing him any
damage. However, these accidents were, I think, so many arguments that
we had very good reason to defer our coming out till the 20th of September.
We observed abundance of St. Andrew's cross in all the woods we passed
through, which is the common remedy used by the Indian traders to cure
their horses when they are bitten by rattle-snakes. It grows on a straight
stem, about eighteen inches high, and bears a yellow flower on the top, that
has an eye of black in the middle, with several pairs of narrow leaves shoot-
ing out at right angles from the stock over against one another. This anti-
dote grows providentially all over the woods, and upon all sorts of soil, that
it may be every where at hand in case a disaster should happen, and may be
had all the hot months while the snakes are dangerous.

THE DIVIDING LINE. 4 1

About four o'clock in the afternoon we took up our quarters upon Caban
branch, which also discharges itself into Fountain creek. On our way we
observed several meadows clothed with very rank grass, and branches full of
tall reeds, in which cattle keep themselves fat good part of the winter. But
hogs are as injurious to both as goats are said to be to vines, and for that rea-
son it was not lawful to sacrifice them to Bacchus. We halted by the way
to christen two children at a spring, where their mothers waylaid us for
that good purpose.

27th. It was ten o'clock before the surveyors got to work, because some of
the horses had straggled a great distance from the camp. Nevertheless,
meeting with practicable woods, they advanced the line nine miles and a hun-
dred and four poles. We crossed over Pea creek about four miles from our
quarters, and, three miles farther, Lizard creek, both which empty their wa-
ters into Roanoke river. Between these two creeks a poor man waited for
us with five children to be baptized, and we halted till the ceremony was
ended. The land seemed to be very good, by the largeness of the trees,
though very stony. We proceeded as far as Pigeon-roost creek, which also
runs into Roanoke, and there quartered. We had not the pleasure of the
company of any of the Carolina commissioners in this day's march, except
Mr. Moseley's, the rest tarrying behind to wait the coming up of their baggage
cart, which they had now not seen nor heard (though the wheels made a dis-
mal noise) for several days past. Indeed it was a very difficult undertaking to
conduct a cart through such pathless and perplexed woods, and no wonder
if its motion was a little planetary. We would have paid them the compli-
ment of waiting for them, could we have done it at any other expense but
that of the public.

In the stony grounds we rode over we found great quantity of the true ipo-
coacanna, which in this part of the world is called Indian physic. This lias se-
veral stalks growing up from the same root about a foot high, bearing a leaf
resembling that of a strawberry. It is not so strong as that from Brazil, but
has the same happy effects, if taken in somewhat a larger dose. It is an ex-
cellent vomit, and generally cures intermitting fevers and bloody fluxes at
once or twice taking. There is abundunce of it in the upper part of the
country, where it delights most in a stony soil intermixed with black mould.
28th. Our surveyors got early to work, yet could forward the line but six
miles and a hundred and twenty-one poles, because of the uneven grounds
in the neighbourhood of Roanoke, which they crossed in this day's work.
In that place the river is forty-nine poles wide, and rolls down a crystal
stream of very sweet v.ater, insomuch that when there comes to be a
great monarch in this part of the world, he will cause all the water for his
own table to be brought from Roanoke, as the great kings of Persia did
theirs from the Nile, and Choaspis, because the waters of those rivers were
light, and not apt to corrupt.*

The great falls of Roanoke lie about twenty miles lower, to which a sloop
of moderate burthen may come up. There are, besides those, many smaller
falls above, though none that entirely intercept the passage of the river, as
the great ones do, by a chain of rocks for eight miles together. The river
forks about thirty-six miles higher, and both branches are pretty equal in
breadth where they divide, though the .southern, now called the Dan, runs up
the farthest. That to the north runs away near north-west, and is called the
Staunton, and heads not far from the source of Appomattox river, while the

• The sanu' humour ])revails at (his day in tho kiiifjs of Denmark, who oider all the
East India ships of that nation to call at tlif cape of Cood Hopr-. and take in a but ol wa-
ter fiom a .spring on the Table Hill, and brin^' it to Coponliaj;'n, lor their majcsMcs' own
drinking.

42 THE HISTORY OF

Dan stretches away pretty near west, and runs clear through the great
mountains.

AVe did not follow the surveyors till towards noon, being detained in our
camp to christen several more children. We were conducted a nearer way,
by a famous woodsman, called Epaphroditus Bamton. This forester spends
all his time in ranging the woods, and is said to make great havoc among the
deer, and other inhabitants of the forest, not much wilder than himself

We proceeded to the canoe landing on Roanoke, where we passed the
river with the baggage. But the horses were directed to a ford about a mile
higher, called by the Indians Moni-seep, which signifies, in their jargon, shal-
low water. This is the ford where the Indian traders used to cross with their
horses, in their way to the Catawba nation. There are many rocks in the
river thereabouts, on which grov.-s a kind of water grass, which the wOd
geese are fond of, and resort to it in great numbers. We landed on the south
^side of Roanoke, at a plantation of Col. Alumford's, where, by that gentle-
man's special directions, we met with sundry refreshments. Here we pitched
our tent, for the benefit of the prospect, upon an eminence that overlooked
a broad piece of low ground, very rich, though liable to be overflowed. By
the way, one of our men killed another rattle-snake, with eleven rattles, hav-
ing a large gray squirrel in his maw, the head of which was already digested,
while the body remained still entire. The way these snakes catch their prey
is thus : They ogle the poor little animal, till by force of the charm he falls
down stupified and senseless on the ground. In that condition the snake ap-
proaches, and moistens first one ear and then the other with his spawl, and
after that the other parts of the head, to make all slippery. When that is
done, he draws this member into his mouth, and after it, by slow degrees, all
the rest of the body.

29th. This being Sunday, we had divine service and a sermon, at which
several of the borderers assisted, and we concluded the duties of the day by
christening five children. Our devotion being performed in the open field,
like that of Mr. Whitfield's flocks, an unfortunate shower of rain had almost
dispersed our congregation. About four in the afternoon the Carolina com-
missioners made a shift to come up with us, whom we had left at Pigeon-roost
creek the Friday before, waiting for their provisions. When their cart came
up they prudently discharged it, and rather chose to hire two men to carry
some part of theii" baggage. The rest they had been obliged to leave behind,
in the crotch of an old tree, for want of proper conveniences to transport it
any farther.

We found in the low ground several plants of the fern root, which is said
to be much the strongest antidote yet discovered against the poison of the
rattle-snake. The leaves of it resemble those of fern, from whence it obtained
its name. Several stalks shoot from the same root, about six inches long, that
lie mostly on the ground. It grows in a very rich soil, under the protection
of some tall tree, that shades it from the meridian beams of the sun. The
root has a faint spicy taste, and is preferred by the southern Indians to all
other counter-poisons in tiiis country. But there is another sort preferred by
the northern Indians, that they call Seneca rattle-snake root, to which wonder-
ful virtues are ascribed in the cure of pleurisies, fevers, rheumatisms, and
dropsies ; besides it being a powerful antidote against the venom of the rattle-
snake.

In the evening the messenger we had sent to Christiana returned with five
Saponi Indians." ^\'e could not entirely rely on the dexterity of our own
men, which induced us to send for some of the Indians. We agreed with
two of the most expert of them, upon reasonable terms, to hunt for us the
remaining part of our expedition. But one of them falling sick soon after.

THE DIVIDIIVG LINE- 43

-are were content to take only the other, whose hunting name was Bear-skin.
This Indian, either by his skill -or good Inck, supplied us ptentifully all the
way with meat, seldom discharging his piece in vain. By his assistance,
therefore, we were able to keep our men to their business, without suffering
them to straggle about the woods, on pretence of furnishing us with neces-
■ary food.

30th. It had rained all night, and made every thing so wet, that our survey-
ors could not get to their work before noon. They could therefore measure no
more than four miles and two hundred and twenty poles, which, according to the
best infi^rmation we could get, was near as high as the uppermost inhabitant
at that time. We crossed the Indian trading path above-mentioned about a mile
from our camp, and a mile beyond that forded Haw-tree creek. The woods
we passed through had all the tokens of sterility, except a small poisoned
field, on which grew no tree bigger than a slender sapling. The larger trees
had been destroyed, either by fire or caterpillars, which is often the case in
the upland woods, and the places where such desolation happens are called
poisoned fields. We took up our quarters upon a branch of Great creek,
where there was tolerable good grass for the poor horses. These poor ani-
mals having now got beyond the latitude of corn, were obliged to shift as
well as they could for themselves.

On oar way the men roused a bear, which being the first we had seen
since we came out, the poor beast had many pursuers. Several persons con-
tended for the credit of killing him : though he was so poor he was not
worth the powder. This was some disappointment to our woodsmen, who
commonly prefer the flesh of bears to every kind of venison. There is some-
thing indeed peculiar to this animal, namely, tltat its fat is very firm, and may
be eaten plentifully without rising in the stomach. 1 he paw (which, when
stripped of the hair, looks like a human foot,) is accounted a delicious morsel
by all who are not shocked at the ungracious resemblance it bears to a
human foot.

October 1st. There was a white frost this morning on the ground, occa-
sioned by a north-west wind, which stood our friend in dispersing all aguish
damps, and making the air wholesome at the same time that it made it cold.
Encouraged therefore by the weather, our surveyors got to work early, and
by the benefit of clear woods, and level ground, drove the line twelve miles
and twelve poles.

At a small distance from our camp we crossed Great creek, and about
seven miles further Nut-bush creek, so called from the many hazel-trees grow-
ing upon it. By good luck many branches of these creeks were full of reeds,
to the great comfort of our horses. iVear five miles from thence we encamp-
ed on a branch that runs into Nut-bush creek, where those reeds flourished
more than ordinary. The land we marched over was for the most part
broken and stony, and in some places covered over with thickets almost im-
penetrable. At night the surveyors, taking advantage of a clear sky, made
a third trial of the variation, and found it still something less than throe de-
jjrees, so that it <!id not diminish by advancing towards the west, or by
approaching the n -inntains, nor yet by increasing our distance from the sea ;
but remained mucli the same we had found it at Coratuck inlet. One of our
Indians killed a large fawn, which was very welcome, though, like Hudibras'
horse, it had hardly flesh enoueh to cover its bones. In the low grounds the
Carolina c<*ntlemen showed us another plant, which they said was used in
their country to cure the bite of the rattle-snake. It put forth several leaves
in figure like 3 heart, and was clouded so like the common Assa-rabacca, that
I conceived it to be of that family.

5d. So loon as the horses could be found, we hurried away the surveyor*,

44 THE HISTORY OF

who advanced the line nine miles and two hundred and fifty-four poles. About
three miles from the camp they crossed a large creek, which the Indians called
Massamoni, signifying, in their language. Paint creek, because of the great
quantity of red ochre found in its banks. This in every fresh tinges the water
just as the same mineral did formerly, and to this day continues to tinge, the
famous river Adonis, in Phoenicia, by which there hangs a celebrated fable.
Three miles beyond that we passed another water with difficulty, called Ya-
patsco, or Beaver creek. Those industrious animals had dammed up the wa-
ter so high, that we had much ado to get over. It is hardly credible how
much work of this kind they will do in the space of one night. They bite
young saplings into proper lengths with their fore-teeth, which are exceeding
strong and sharp, and afterwards drag them to the place where they mtend
to stop the water. Then they know how to join timber and earth together
with so much skill, that their work is able to resist the most violent flood that
can happen. In this they are qualified to instruct their betters, it being cer-
tain their dams will stand firm when the strongest that are made by men will
be carried down the stream. We observed very broad low grounds upon
this creek, with a growth of large trees, and all the other signs of fertility,
but seemed subject to be every where overflowed in a fresh. The certain
way to catch these sagacious animals is this : Squeeze all the juice out of the
large pride of the beaver, and six drops out of the small pride. Powder the
inward bark of sassafras, and mix it with this juice, then bait therewith a
steel trap, and they will eagerly come to it, and be taken.

About three miles and a half further we came to the banks of another creek,
called, in the Saponi language, Ohimpa-moni, signifying Jumping creek, from
the frequent jumping of fish during the spring season.

Here we encamped, and by the time the horses were hobbled, our hunters
brought us no less than a brace and a half of deer, which made great plenty,
and consequently great content in our quarters. Some of our people had
shot a great wild cat, which was that fatal moment making a comfortable
meal upon a fox-squirrel, and an ambitious sportsman of our company
claimed the merit of killing this monster aft;er it was dead. The wild cat is
as big again as any household cat, and much the fiercest inhabitant of the
woods. WheKever it is disabled, it will tear its own flesh for madness.
Although a panther will run away from a man, a wild cat will only make a
surly retreat, and now and then facing about, if he be too closely pursued;
and will even pursue in his turn, if he observe the least sign of fear or even
of caution in those that pretend to follow him. The flesh of this beast, as well
as of the panther, is as white as veal, and altogether as sweet and delicious,

3d. We got to work early this morning, and carried the line eight miles and
a hundred and sixty poles. We forded several runs of excellent water, and
afterwards traversed a large level of high land full of lofty walnut, poplar, and
white oak trees, which are certain proofs of a fruitful soil. This level was near
two miles in length, and of an unknown breadth, quite out of danger of
being overflowed, which Is a misfortune most of the low grounds are liable
to in those parts. As we marched along we saw many buffalo tracks, and
abundance of their dung very fresh, but could not have the pleasure of see-
ing them. They either smelt us out, having that sense very quick, or else
were alarmed at the noise that so many people must necessarily make in
marching along. At the sight of a man they will snort and grunt, cock up
their ridiculous short tails, and tear up the ground with a sort of timorous
fury. These wild cattle hardly ever range alone, but herd together like those
that are tame. They are seldom seen so far north as forty degrees of latitude,
delighting much in canes and reeds, which grow generally more southerly.

We quartered on the banks of a creek that the inhabitants call Tewaho-

THE DIVIDING LINE.

45

niiny, or Tuskarooda creek, because one of that nation had been killed there-
abouts, and his body thrown into the creek.

Oui" people had the fortune to kill a brace of does, one of which we pre-
sented to the Carolina gentlemen, who were glad to partake of the bounty of
Providence, at the same tin:ie that they sneered at us for depending upon it.

4th. We hurried away the surveyors about nine this morning, who extend-
ed the line seven miles and a hundred and sixty poles, notwithstanding the
ground was exceedingly uneven. At the distance of five miles we forded a
stream to which we gave the name of Bluewing creek, because of the great
number of those fowls that then frequented it. About two and a half miles
beyond that, we came upon Sugar-tree creek, so called from the many trees
of that kind that grow upon it. By tapping this tree, in the first warm wea-
ther in February, one may get from twenty to forty gallons of liquor, very
sweet to the taste and agreeable to the stomach. This may bo boiled into
molasses first, and afterwards into very good sugar, allowing about ten gal-
lons of the liquor to make a pound. There is no doubt, too, that a very fine
spirit may be distilled from the molasses, at least as good as rum. The sugar
tree delights only in rich ground, where it grows very tall, and by the soft-
ness and sponginess of the wood should be a quick grower. Near this creek
we discovered likewise several spice trees, the leaves of which are fragrant,
and the berries they bear are black when dry, and of a hot taste, not much
unlike pepper. The low grounds upon the creek are very wide, sometimes
on one side, sometimes on the other ; though most commonly upon the oppo-
site shore the high land advances close to the bank, only on the north side of
the line it spreads itself into a great breadth of rich low ground on both sides
the creek for four miles together, as far as this stream runs into Hico river,
whereof I shall presently make mention. One of our men spied three buffa-
loes, but his piece being loaded only with goose-shot, he was able to make no
effectual impression on their thick hides ; however, this disappointment was
made up by a brace of bucks, and as many wild turkeys, killed by the rest
of the company. Thus Providence was very bountiful to our endeavours,
never disappointing those that faithfully rely upon it, and j^ray heartily for
their daily bread.

5th. This day we met with such uneven grounds, and thick underwoods,
that with all our industry we were able to advance the line but four miles and
three hundred and twelve poles. In this small distance it intersected a large
stream four times, which our Indian at first mistook for the south branch of
Roanoke river ; but, discovering his error soon after, he assured us it was a
river called Ilicootomony, or Turkey-buzzard river, from the great number
of those unsavoury birds that roost on the tall trees growing near its banks.

Early in the afternoon, to our very great surprise, the commissioners of
Carolina acquainted us with their resolution to return home. This declara-
tion of theirs seemed the more abrupt, because they had not been so kind as
to prepare us, by the least hint, of their intention to desert us. We therefore
let them understand they appeared to us to abandon the business they came
about with too nuu-h precipitation, this being but the fifteenth day since we
came out the last time. But, although we were to be so unhappy as to lose
the a.ssistancc of their great abilities, yet we, who were concerned for Vir-
ginia, determined, by the grace of God, not to do our work by halves, but, all
deserted as we were like to be, should think it our duty to push the line (iui((>
to the mountains ; and if their government should refuse to be bound by so
much of the line as M-as run without their connuis.sionors, 3'et at least it
wPtild bind Virginia, and stand as a direction how far his maji^sly's lands ex-
tend to the southward. In short, these gentlemen weie positiv*", and the most
wc could agree upon was to suliscrlbe plots of our work a.^ liir as wc hud

G

46 THE HISTORY OF

acted together ; though at the same time we insisted these plots should be gotten
ready by Monday noon at farthest, when we on the part of Virginia intend-
ed, if we were alive, to move forward without farther loss of time, the season
being then too far advanced to admit of any unnecessary or complaisant
de]a3''s. ,

6th. We lay still this day, being Sunday, on the bank of Hico river, and
had only prayers, our chaplain not having spirits enough to preach. The
gentlemen of Carolina assisted not at our public devotions, because they were
taken up all the morning in making a formidable protest against our proceed-
ing on the line without them. When the divine service was over, the surveyors
set about making the plots of so much of the line as we had run this last
campaign. Our pious friends of Carolina assisted in this work with some
seeming scruple, pretending it was a violation of the sabbath, which we were
the more surprised at, because it happened to be the first qualm of conscience
they had ever been troubled with during the whole journey. They had made
no bones of staying from prayers to hammer out an unnecessary protest,
though divine service was no sooner over, but an unusual fit of godliness
made them fancy that finishing the plots, which was now matter of necessity,
was a profanation of the day. However, the expediency of losing no time,
for us who thought it our duty to finish what we had undertaken, made such
a labour pardonable.

In the afternoon, Mr. Fitzwilliam, one of the commissioners for Virginia,
acquainted his colleagues it was his opinion, that by his majesty's order they
could not proceed farther on the line, but in conjunction with the commission-
ers of Carolina ; for which reason he intended to retire, the next morning,
with those gentlemen. This looked a little odd in our brother commissioner ;
though, in justice to him, as well as to our Carolina friends, they stuck by us as
long as our good liquor lasted, and were so kind to us as to drink our good
journey to the mountains in the last bottle we had left.

7th. The duplicates of the plots could not be drawn fair this day before
noon, when they were countersigned by the commissioners of each govern-
ment. Then those of Carolina delivered their protest, which was by this
time licked into form, and signed by them all. And we have been so just to
them as to set it down at full length in the Appendix, that their reasons for
leaving us may appear in their fall strength. After having thus adjusted all
our affairs with the Carolina commissioners, and kindly supplied them with
bread to carry them back, which they hardly deserved at our hands, we took
leave both of them and our colleague, Mr. Fitzwilliam. This gentleman had
still a stronger reason for hurrying him back to Williamsburg, which was,
that neither the general court might lose an able judge, nor himself a double
salary, not despairing in the least but he should have the whole pay of com-
missioner into the bargain, though he did not half the work. This, to be sure,
was relying more on the interest of his friends than on the justice of his
cause ; in which, however, he had the misfortune to miscarry, when it came
to be fairly considered,

It was two o'clock in the afternoon before these arduous affairs could be
despatched, and then, all forsaken as we were, we held on our course towards
the west. But it was our misfortune to meet with so many thickets in this
afternoon's work, that we could advance no further than two miles and two
hundred and sixty poles. In this small distance we crossed the Hico the fifth
time, and quartered near Buffalo creek, so named from the frequent tokens
we discovered of that American behemoth. Here the bushes were so intole-
rably thick, that we were obhged to cover the bread bags with our deer smtis,
otherwise the joke of one of the Indians must have happened to us in good
earnest, that in a few days we must cut up our house to make bags for our

THE DIVIDING LINE. 47

bread, and so be forced to expose our backs in compliment to our bellies. We
computed we had then biscuit enough left to last us, with good management,
seven weeks longer ; and this being our chief dependence, it imported us to
be very careful bioth in the carriage and the distribution of it.

We had now no other drink but what Adam drank in Paradise, though to
our comfort we found the water excellent, by the help of which we perceived
our appetites to mend, our slumbers to sweeten, the stream of life to run cool
and peaceably in our veins, and if ever we dreamed of women, they wei'e
kind. Our men killed a very fat buck and several turkeys. These two kinds of
meat boiled together, with the addition of a little rice or French barley, made
excellent soup, and, what happens rarely in other good things, it never cloyed,
no more than an engaging wife woul^ do, by being a constant dish. Our In-
dian was very superstitious in this matter, and told us, with a face Ml of con-
cern, that if we continued to boil venison and turkey together, we should for
the future kill nothing, because the spirit that presided over the woods would
drive all the game out of our sight. But we had the happiness to find this an
idle superstition, and though his argument could not convince us, yet our repeat-
ed experience at last, with much ado, convinced him. We observed abundance
of colt's foot and maiden-hair in many places, and no where a larger quantity
than here. They are both excellent pectoral plants, and seem to have greater
virtues much in this part of the world than in more northern climates ; and I
believe it may pass for a rule in botanies, that where any vegetable is planted
by the hand of nature, it has more virtue than in places whereto it is trans-
planted by the curiosity of man.

8th. Notwithstanding we hurried away the surveyors very early, yet the
underwoods embarrassed them so much that they could with difficulty ad-
vance the line four miles and twenty poles. Our clothes suffered extremely
by the bushes, and it was really as much as both our hands could do to pre-
serve our eyes in our hedds. Our poor hor.ses, too, could hardly drag their
loads throOgh the saplings, which stood so close together that it was necessary
for them todraw and carry at the same time. We quartered near a spring
of very fine water, as soft as oil and as cold as ice, to make us amends for the
want of wine. And our Indian knocked down a very fat doe, just time
enough to hinder us from going supperless to bed. The heavy baggage
could not come up with us, because of the excessive badness of the ways.
This gave us no small uneasiness, but it went worse with the poor men that
guarded it. They had nothing in the world with them but dry bread, nor
durst they eat any of that, for fear of inflaming their thirst, in a place where
they could find no water to quench it. This was, however, the better to be
endured, because it was the first fast any one had kept during the whole jour-
ney, and then, thanks to the gracious Guardian of the woods ! there was no
more than a single meal lost to a few of the company. We were entertained
this night with the yell of a whole family of wolves, in which we could dis-
tinguish the treble, tenor and bass, very clearly. These beasts of prey kept
pretty much upon our track, being tempted by the garbage of tlie creatures
we killed every day ; for which we were serenaded witii their shrill pipes almost
every night. This bea.st is not so untameable as the panther, but the Indians
know how to gentle their wlielps, and use them about their cabins instead of
dogs.

9th. The thickets were hereabouts so impenetrable, that we were obliged,
at first setting off this morning, to order four pioneers to clear the way be-
fore the surveyors. But, after about two miles of these rough woods, we
had the pleasure to meet witii open grounds and not very uneven, by the
help of which we were enabled to push the lino about six miles. The baggage
that lay short of our camp last night came up about noon, and the men made

48

THE HISTORY OF

heavy complaints, that they had been lialf starved, like Tantalus, in the midst
of plenty, for the reason above mentioned.

The soil we past over this day was generally very good, being clothed
with large trees, of poplarj,hiqkory and oak. But another certain token of
its fertility was, that wild angelica grew plentifully upon it. The root of
this plant, being verj'- warm and aromatic, is coveted by woodsmen extreme-
ly as a dry dram, that is, when rum, that cordial for all distresses, is wanting.
Several deer came into our view as we marched along, but none into the pot,
which made it necessaiy for us to sup on the fragments we had been so
provident as to carry along with us. This being but a temperate repast,
made some of our hungi-y fellows call the place we lodged at that night.
Bread and Water Camp.

A great flock of cranes flew over our quarters, that were exceeding clamo-
rous in their flight. They seem to steer their course towards the south (be-
ing birds of passage) in quest of warmer weather. They only took this
country in their way, being as rarely met with, in this part of the world, as a
highwayman or a beggar. These birds travel generally in flocks, and when
they roost they place sentinels upon some of the highest trees, which con-
stantly stand upon one leg to keep themselves waking.*

Our Indian killed nothing all day but a mountain partridge, which a little
resembled the common partridge in the plumage, but was near as large as a
dunghill hen. These are very frequent towards the mountains, though we
had the fortune to meet with very few. They are apt to be shy, and conse-
quently the noise of so great a number of people might easily scare them
away from our sight. We found what we conceived to be good limestone
in several places, and a great quantity of blue slate.

10th. The day began very fortunately by killing a fat doe, and two brace
of wild turkeys ; so the plenty of the morning made amends for the short
commons over night. One of the new men we brought out with us the last
time was unfortunately heard to wish himself at home, and for that .show of
impatience was publicly reprimanded at the head of the men, who were all
drawn up to witness his disgrace. He was asked how he came so soon to
be tired of the company of so many brave fellows, and whether it was the
danger or the fatigue of the journey that disheartened him] This public re-
proof from thenceforward put an effectual stop to all complaints, and not a
man amongst us after that pretended so much as to wish himself in Paradise.
A small distance from our camp v,-e crossed a pleasant stream of water
called Cocquade creek, and something more than a mile from thence our line
intersected the south branch of Roanoke river the first time, which we called
the Dan. It was about two hundred yards wide where we forded it, and
when we came over to the west side, we found the banks lined with a forest
of tall canes, that grew more than a furlong in depth. So that it cost us
abundance of time and labour to cut a passage through them wide enough
for our baggage. In the mean time we had leisure to take a full view of this
charming river. The stream, which was perfectly clear, ran down about

* Nor are these birds IFie only animals that appoint scouts to keep the main body from
being surprised. For the baboons, wh<»never they go upon any mischievous expedition,
such as robbing an orchard, place sentinels to look out towards every point of the
compass, and give notice of any danger. Then ranking themselves in one file, that reaches
from the mountain where they harbour, to the orchard they intend to rob, some of them
toss .the fruits from the trees to those that stand nearest, these throw them to the next,
and so from one to the other, till the fruit is all secured in a few minutes out of harm's
way. In the mean time, if any of the scouts should be careless at their posts, and suffer
any surprise, they are torn to pieces without mercy. In case of danger these sentinels
set up a fearful cry, upon which the rest take the alarm, and scour away to the moun-
tains as fast as they can.

THE DIVIDING LINE. 49

two knots, or two miles, an hour, when the water was at the lowest. The
bottom was covered with a coarse gravel, spangled very thick with a
shining substance, that almost dazzled the eye, and the sand upon either shore
sparkled with the same splendid particles. At first sight, the sunbeams
giving a yellow cast to these spangles made us fancy them to be gold dust,
and consequently that all our fortunes were made. Such hopes as these
were the less extravagant, because several rivers lying mudi about the same
latitude with this have formerly abounded with fragments of that tempting-
metal. Witness the Tagus in Portugal, the Heber in Thrace, and the Pactolus
in Lesser Asia ; not to mention the rivers on the Gold Coast in Africa, which
lie in a more southern climate. But we soon found ourselves mistaken, and
our gold dust dwindled into small flakes of isinglass. However, though
this did not make the river so rich as we could wish, yet it made it exceed-
ingly beautiful. We marched about two miles and a half beyond this river,
as far as Cane creek, so called from a prodigious quantity of tall canes that
fringed the banks of it. On the west side of this creek we marked out our
quarters, and were glad to find our horses fond of the canes, though they
scoured them smartly at first, and discoloured their dung. This beautiful ve-
getable grows commonly from twelve to sixteen feet high, and some of them
as thick as a man's wrist. Though these appeared large to us, yel they are
no more than spires of grass, if compared to those which some curious tra-
vellers tell us grow in the East Indies, one joint of which will make a brace
of canoes, if sawed in two in the middle. Ours continue green through all
the seasons during the space of six years, and the seventh shed their seed,
wither away and die. The spring following they begin to shoot again, and
reach their former stature the second or third year after. They grow so thick,
and their roots lace together so firmly, that they are the best guard that can
be of the river bank, which would otherwise be washed away by the frequent
inundations that happen in this part of the world. They would also serve
excellently well to plant on the borders of fish-ponds and canals, to secure
their sides from falling in; though I fear tliey would not grow kindly in
a cold countr}', being seldom seen here so northerly as thirty-eight degrees of
latitude.

11th. At the distance of four miles and sixty poles from the place where we
encamped, we came upon the river Dan a second time ; though it was not so
wide in this place as where we crossed it first, being not above a iumdred and
fifty yards over. The west shore continued to be covered with the canes
above mentioned, but not to so great a breadth as before, and it is remarkable
that these canes are much more frequent on the west side of the river than on
the east, where they grow generally very scattering. It was still a beautiful
stream, rolling down its limpid and murmuring waters among the rocks,
which lay scattered here and there, to make up the variety of the prospect.
It was about two miles from this river to the end of our day's work, which
led us mostly over broken grounds and troublesome underwoods. Hereabout,
from one of tlie highest hills, we made the first discovery of the mountains, on
the north-west of our course. They seemed to lie off at a vast distance, and
looked like ranges of blue clouds rising one above another. We encamped
about two miles beyond the river, where we made good cheer upon a very
fat buck, that luckily fell in our way. The Indian likewise shot a wild
turkey, but confessed he would not bring it us, lost we should continue to
provoke the guardian of the forest, by cooking the beasts of the field and the
birds of the air together in one vessel. This inslance of Indian superstition,
I confess, is countenanced in some measure by tiie Levitical law, which for-
bade the mixing things of a dilferent nature together in the same field, or in
the same garment, and why not then in the same kettle 1 But, after all, if the

50 THE HISTORY OF

jumbling of two sorts of flesh together be a sin, how intolerable an offence
must it be to make a Spanish olla, that is, a hotchpotch of every kind of thing
that is eatable ! And tiie good people of England would have a great deal to
answer for, for beating up so many different ingredients into a pudding.

r2th. We were so cruelly entangled with bushes and grape-vines all day,
that we could advance the line no farther than five miles and twenty-eight
poles. The vines grow very thick in these woods, twining lovingly round
the trees almost every where, especially to the saplings. This makes it evi-
dent how natural both the soil and climate of this country are to vines,
though I believe most to our own vines. The grapes we commonly met with
were black, though there be two or three kinds of white grapes that grow
wild. The black are very sweet, but small, because the strength of the vine
spends itself in wood ; though without question a proper culture would make
the same grapes bath larger and sweeter. But, with all these disadvantages,
I have drunk to\n-able good wine pressed from them, though made without
skill. There is then good reason to believe it might admit of great improve-
ment, if riglitly managed. Our Indian killed a bear, two years old, that was
feasting on these grapes. He was very fat, as they generally are in that sea-
son of the year. In the fall, the flesh of this animal has a high relish, differ-
ent from that of other creatures, though inclining nearest to that of pork, or
rather of wild boar. A true woodsman prefers this sort of meat to that of
the fattest venison, not only for the haul gout, but also because the fat of it is
well tasted, and never rises in the stomach. Another proof of the goodness
of this meat is, that it is less apt to corrupt than any other with which we are
acquainted. As agreeable as such rich diet was to the men, yet we who
were not accustomed to it, tasted it at first with some sort of squeamishness,
that animal being of the dog kind ; though a little use soon reconciled us to
this American venison. And that its being of the dog kind might give us the
less disgust, we had the example of that ancient and polite people, the Chi-
nese, who reckon dog's flesh too good for any under the quality of a manda-
rin. This beast is in truth a very clean feeder, living, while the season lasts,
upon acorns, chestnuts and chinquapins, wild honey and wild grapes. They
are naturally not carnivorous, unless hunger constrain them to it, after the
mast is all gone, and the product of the woods quite exhausted. They are
not provident enough to lay up any hoard, like the squirrels, nor can they,
after all, live very long upon licking their paws, as sir John Mandevil and
some other travellers tell us, but are forced in the winter months to quit the
mountains, and visit the inhabitants. Their errand is then to surprise a poor
hog at a pinch to keep them from starving. And to show that they are not
flesh-eaters by trade, they devour their prey very awkwardly. They do not
kill it right out, and feast upon its blood and entrails, like other ravenous
beasts, but having, after a fair pursuit, seized it with their paws, they begin
first upon the rump, and so devour one collop after another, till they come to
the vitals, the poor animal crying all the while, for several minutes together.
However, in so doing, Bruin acts a little imprudently, because the dismal out-
cry of the hog alarms the neighbourhood, and it is odds but he pays the for-
feit with his life, before he can secure his retreat. But bears soon grow weary
of this unnatural diet, and about January, when there is nothing to be gotten
in the woods, they retire into some cave or hollow tree, where they sleep
away two or three months very comfortably. But then they quit their holes
in March, when the fish begin to run up the rivers, on which they are forced
to keep Lent, till some fruit or berry comes in season. But bears are fondest
of chestnuts, which grow plentifully towards the mountains, upon very large
trees, where the soil happens to be rich. We were curious to know how it
happened that many of the outward branches of those trees came to be broken

TIIK DIVIDING LINE

51

off" in that solitary place, and were informed that the bears are so discreet as
not to trust their unwieldy bodies on the smaller limbs of the tree, that would
not bear their weight ; but after venturing as far as is safe, which they can
judge to an inch, they bite off the end of the branch, which falling down,
they are content to finish their repast upon the ground. In the same cautious
manner they secure the acorns that grow on the weaker limbs of the oak.
And it must be allowed that, in these "instances, a bear carries instinct a great
way, and acts more reasonably than many of his betters, who indiscreetly
venture upon frail projects that will not bear them.

loth. This being Sunday, we rested from our fatigue, and had leisure to re-
flect on the signal mercies of Providence.

The great plenty of meat wherewith Bearskin furnished us in these lonely
woods made us once more shorten the men's allowance of bread, from five to
four pounds of biscuit a week. This was the moie necessary, because we
knew not yet how long our business might require us to be out.

In the afternoon our hunters went forth, and returned triumphantly with
three brace of wild turkeys. They told us they could see the mountains dis-
tinctly from every eminence, though the atmosphere was so thick with smoke
that they appeared at a greater distance than they really were.

In the evening we examined our friend Bearskin, concerning the religion of
his country, and he explained it to us, without any of tjiat reserve towhich
his nation is subject. He told us he believed there was one supreme God,
who had several subaltern deities under him. And that this master God made
the world a long time ago. That he told the sun, the moon, and stars, their
business in the beginning, which they, with good looking after, have faithfully
performed ever since. That the same Power that made all things at first has
taken care to keep them in the same method and motion ever since. He be-
lieved that God had formed many worlds before he formed this, but that those
worlds either grew old and ruinous, or were destroyed for the dishonesty of
the inhabitants. That God is very just and very good — ever well pleased with
those men who possess those god-like qualities. That he takes good people
into his safe protection, makes them very rich, fills their loellics plentifully,
preserves them from sickness, and from being surprised or overcome by their
enemies. But all such as tell lies, and cheat those they have dealings with,
he never fails to punisii with sickness, poverty and hunger, and, after "all that,
suffers them to be knocked on the head and scalped by those that fight against
them. He believed that after death both good and bad people areconclucted
by a strong guard into a great road, in which departed souls travel together
for some time, till at a certain distance this road forks into two paths, the one
extremely level, and the other stony and mountainous. Here the irood are
parted from the bad by a flash of lightning, the first being hurried away to
the right, the other to the left. The right hand road leads to a charming
warm country, where the spring is everlasting, and every month is May ; and
as the year is always in its youth, .so are the people, and particularly the wo-
men are bright as stars, and never scold. That in this hapi^y climate there
are deer, turkeys, elks, and buffiiloes innumerable, perpetually fit and gentle,
while the trees are loaded with delicious fruit quite Ihrougliout the four sea-
sons. That the soil brings forth corn spontaneously, without the curse of la-
bour, and .so very wholesome, that none who have the happiness to eat of it
are ever sick, grow old, or die. Near the entrance into this blessed land sits
a venerable old man on a mat richly woven, who examines strictly all that
are brought befijre him, and if they have behaved well, the guards are order-
ed to ojion the crystal gate, and let them enter into the land of delight. The
left hand path is very rugged and uneven, leading to a dark and barren coun-
try, where it is always winter. The ground is the whole year round covered

52 THE HISTORY OF

with snow, and nothing is to be seen upon the trees but icicles. All the peo-
ple are hungry, yet have not a morsel of any thing to eat, except a bitter kind
of potato, that gives them the dry gripes, and fills their whole body with
loathsome ulcers, that stink, and are insupportably painful. Here all the wo-
men are old and ugly, having claws like a panther, with which they fly upon
the men that .slight their passion. For it seems these haggard old furies are
intolerably fond, and expect a vast deal 'of cherishing. They talk much, and
exceedingly shrill, giving exquisite pain to the drum of the ear, which in that
place of torment is so tender, that every sharp note wounds it to the quick.
At the end of this path sits a dreadful old woman on a monstrous toad-stool,
whose head is covered with rattle-snakes instead of tresses, with glaring
white eyes, that strike a terror unspeakable into all that behold her. This
hag pronounces sentence of woe upon all the miserable wretches that hold
up their hands at her tribunal. After this they are delivered over to huge
turkey-buzzards, like harpies, that fly away with them to the place above
mentioned. Here, after they have been tormented a certain number of years,
according to their several degrees of guilt, they are again driven back into
this world, to try if they will mend their manners, and merit a place the next
time in the regions of bliss. This was the substance of Bearskin's religion,
and was as much to the purpose as could be expected from a mere state of
nature, without one glimpse of revelation or philosophy. It contained, however,
the three great articles of natural religion : the belief of a God ; the moral
distinction betwixt good and evil; and the expectation of rewards and
punishments in another world. Indeed, the Indian notion of a future happi-
ness is a little gross and sensual, like Mahomet's paradise. But how can it
be otherwise, in a people that are contented with Nature as they find her, and
have no other lights but what they receive from purblind tradition 1

14th. There having been great signs of rain yesterday evening, we had
taken our precautions in securing the bread, and trenching in our tent. The
men had also stretched their blankets upon poles, pent-house fashion, against ,
the weather, so that nobody was taken unprepared. It began to fall heavily
about three o'clock in the morning, and held not up till near noon. Every
thing was so thoroughly soaked, that we laid aside all thoughts of decamping
that day. This gave leisure to the most expert of our gunners to go and try
their fortunes, and they succeeded so well, that they returned about noon
with three fat deer, and four wild turkeys. Thus Providence took care of us,
and however short the men might be in their bread, it is certain they had
meat at full allowance. The cookery went on merrily all night long, to keep
the damps from entering our pores ; and in truth the impressions of the air
are much more powerful upon empty stomachs. In such a glut of provisions,
a true woodsman, when he has nothing else to do, like our honest country-
men the Indians, keeps eating on, to avoid the imputation of idleness ; though,
in a scarcity, the Indian will fast with a much better grace than they. They
can subsist several days upon a little rockahominy, which is parched Indian
corn reduced to powder. This they moisten in the hollow of their hands
with a little water, and it is hardly credible how small a quantity of it will
support them. It is true they grow a little lank upon it, but to make them-
selves feel full, they gird up their loins very tight with a belt, taking up a hole
every day. With this slender subsistence they are able to travel very long
journeys ; but then, to make themselves amends, when they do meet with
better cheer, they eat without ceasing, till they have ravened themselves into
another famine.

This was the first time we had ever been detained a whole day in our
camp by the rain, and therefore had reason to bear it with the more patience.

THE DIVIDING LINE. 53

The few good husbands amongst us took some thought of their backs as
well as their bellies, and made use of this opportunity to put their habiliments
in repair, which had suffered wofuliy by the bushes. The horses got some
rest, by reason of the bad weather, but very little food, the chief of their
forage being a little wild rosemary, which resembles the garden rosemary
pretty much in figure, but not at all in taste or smell. This plant grows in
small tufts here and there on the barren land in these upper parts, and the
horses liked it well, but the misfortune was, they could not get enough of it"
to fill their bellies.

15th. After the clouds broke away in the morning, the people dried their
blankets with all diligence. Nevertheless, it was noon before we were in con-
dition to move forward, and then were so puzzled with passing the river
twice in a small distance, that we could advance the line in all no further than
one single mile and three hundred poles. The first time we passed the Dan
this day was two hundred and forty poles from the place where we lay, and
the second time was one mile and seven poles beyond that. This was now
the fourth time we forded that fine river, which still tended westerly, with
many short and returning reaches.

The surveyors had much difficulty in getting over the river, finding it
deeper than formerly. The breadth of it here did not exceed fifty yards.
The banks were about twenty feet high from the water, and beautifully beset
with canes. Our baggage horses crossed not the river here at all, but, fetch-
ing a compass, went round the bend of it. On our way we forded Sable
creek, so called from the dark colour of the water, which happened, I sup-
pose, by its being shaded on b6th sides with canes.

In the evening we quartered in a charming situation near the angle of the
river, from whence our eyes were carried down both reaches, which kept a
straight course for a great way together. This prospect was so beautiful,
that we were perpetually climbing up to a neighbouring eminence, that we
might enjoy it in more perfection.

Now the weather grew cool, the wild geese began to direct their flight this
way from Hudson's bay, and the lakes that lay north- west of us. Tliey are
very lean at their first coming, but fatten soon upon a sort of grass that
grows on the shores and rocks of this river. The Indians call this fowl
cohunks, from the hoarse note it has, and begin the year from the coming of
the cohunkg, which happens in the beginning of October, These wild geese
are guarded from cold by a down, that is exquisitelj'- soft and fine, which
makes them much more valuable for their feathers than for their flesh, which
is dark and coarse.

The men chased a bear into the river that got safe over, notwithstanding
the continual fire from the shore upon him. He seemed to swim but heavily,
considering it was for his life. Where the water is shallow, it is no uncom-
mon thing to see a bear sitting, in the summer time, en a heap of gravel in
the middle of the river, not only to cool liiuiself, but likewise for the advan-
tage of fishing, pirticularly for a sni;'!.! .^iicU-ilsh, that is brought down with the
stream. In the upper part of James river I have observed tins several times,
and wondered very much, at first, how so many heaps of small stones came to
be piled up in the water, til' at last we spied a bear siftin;^ upon one of tliem,
looking with great attontion on the stream, and raking up something with his
paw, which I take to be the shc!I-fii>h above nirntinr.od.

16th. It was ten o'clock this morning before tl"- horses could bo found,
having hidden themselves among the canes, whereof there was great plenty
just at hand. Not far from our camp we went over 0 brook, whose banks
were edged on Ijoth sides with thcpe canes. But three iiiiics fuitiioi" we

i[

54

THE HISTORY OF

forded a larger stream, which we called Lowland creek, by reason of the
great breadth of low grounds inclosed between that and the river.

The high land we travelled over was very good, and the low grounds pro-
mised the greatest fertility of any I had ever seen. At the end of four miles
and three hundred and eleven poles from where we lay, the line intersected
the Dan the fifth time. We had day enough to carry it farther, but the sur-
veyors could find no safe ford ov^er the river. This obliged us to ride two
miles up the river in quest of a ford, and by the way w^e traversed several
small Indian fields, where we conjectured the Sawroes had been used to plant
corn, the town where they had lived lying seven or eight miles more south-
erly, upon the eastern side of the river. These Indian fields produced a
sweet kind of grass, almost knee-high, which was excellent forage for the
horses. It must be observed, by the way, that Indian towns, like religious
houses, are remarkable for a fruitful situation ; for being by nature not very
industrious, they choose such a situation as will subsist them with the least
labour. The trees grew surprisingly large in this low ground, and amongst
the rest we observed a tall kind of hickory, peculiar to the upper parts of the
country. It is covered with a very rough bark, and produces a nut with a
thick shell that is easily broken. The kernel is not so rank as that of the
common hickory, but altogether as oily. And now I am upon the subject of
these nuts, it may not be improper to remark, that a very great benefit might
be made of nut-oil in this colony. The walnuts, the hickory-nuts, and pig-
nuts, contain a vast deal of oil, that might be pressed out in great abundance
with proper machines. The trees grow very kindly, and may be easily
propagated. They bear plenty of nuts every year, that are now of no other
use in the world but to feed hogs. It is certain there is a large consumption
of this oil in several of our manufactures, and in some parts of France, as
well as in other countries, it is eaten instead of oil-olive, being tolerably sweet
and wholesome. The Indian killed a fat buck, and the men brought in four
bears and a brace of wild turkeys, so that this was truly a land of plenty,
both for man and beast.

17th. We detached a party of men this morning early in search of a
ford, who after all could find none that was safe ; though, dangerous as it was,
we determined to make use of it, to avoid all further delay. Accordingly
we rode over a narrow ledge of rocks, some of which lay below the surface
of the water, and some above it. Those that lay under the water were as
slippery as ice ; and the current glided over them so swifty, that though it
was only water, it made us perfectly drunk. Yet we were all so fortunate
as to get safe over to the west shore, with no other damage than the sopping
some of our bread by the flouncing of the horses. The tedious time spent
in finding out this ford, and in getting all the horses over it, prevented our
carrying the line more than two miles and two hundred and fifty poles.
This was the last time we crossed the Dan with our line, which now began
to run away more southerly, with a very flush and plentiful stream, the de-
scription whereof must be left to future discoveries, though we are well
assured by the Indians that it runs through the mountains. We conducted
the baggage a roundabout way for the benefit of evener grounds, and this
carried us over a broad level of exceeding I'ich land, full of large trees, with
vines married to them, if I may be allowed to speak so poetically. We
untreed a young cub in our march, that made a brave stand against one of
the best of our dogs. This and a fawn were all the game that came in our
way. In this day's journey, as in many others before, we saw beautiful
marble of several colours, and particularly that of the purple kind with white
streaks, and in some places we came across large pieces of pure alabaster.

THE DIVIDING LINE. 55

We marked out our quarters on the banks of a purling stream, which we
called Cascade creek, by reason of the multitude of water-falls that are in it.
But, different from all other falls that ever I met with, the rocks over which
the water rolled were soft, and would split easily into broad flakes, very pro-
per for pavement ; and some fragments of it seemed soft enough for hones,
and the grain fine enough. Nea^r oiu- camp we found a prickly shrub, rising
about a foot from the ground, something like that which bears the barberry,
though much smaller. The leaves had a fresh, agreeable smell, and I am
persuaded the ladies would be apt to fancy a tea made of them, provided they
were told how far it came, and at the same time were obliged to buy it very
dear. About a mile to the south-west of our camp rose a regular mount, that
commanded a full prospect of the mountains, and an extensive view of the
flat country. But being, with respect to the high mountains, no more than a
pimple, we called it by that name. Presently after sunset we discovered a
great liffht towards the west, too bright for a fire, and more resembling the
aurora ""borealis. This, all our woodsmen told us, was a common appear-
ance in the high lands, and generally foreboded bad weather. Their explana-
tion happened to be exactly true, for in the night we had a violent gale of wind,
accompanied with smart hail, that rattled frightfully amongst the trees, though
it was not large enough to do us any harm.

We crossed Cascade creek over a ledge of smooth rocks, and then scuffled
through a mighty thicket, at least three miles long. The whole was one
continued tract of rich high land, the woods whereof had been burnt not long
before. It was then overgrown with saplings of oak, hickory and locust,
interlaced with grape vines. In this fine land, however, we met with no water,
till at the end of three miles we luckily came upon a crystal stream, which,
like some lovers of conversation, discovered every thing committed to its faith-
less bosom. Then we came upon a piece of rich low ground, covered with large
trees, of the extent of half a mile, which made us fancy ourselves not far
from the river ; though after that we ascended gently to higher land, with no
other trees growing upon it except butter-wood, which is one species of white
maple. This being a dead level, without the least declivity to carry off the
water, was moist ha many places, and produced abundance of grass. All
our woodsmen call these flat grounds high land ponds, and in their trading
journeys are glad to halt at such places for several days together, to recruit
their jaded horses, especially in the winter months, when there is little or no
grass to be found in other places. This high land pond extended above two
miles, our palfries snatching greedily at the tufts of grass, as they went along.
After we got over this level, we descended some stony hills for about half a
mile, and then came upon a large branch of the river, which we christened
the Irvin, in honour of our learned professor. This river we forded with much
difficully and some danger, by reason of the hollow spaces betwixt the
rocks, into which our horses plunged almost every step. The Irvin runs into
the Dan about four miles to the southward of the line, and seemed to roll
down its waters from the N. N. W. in a very full and limpid stream, and the
murmur it made, in tumbling over the rocks, caused the situation to appear very
romantic, and had almost made some of the company poetical, though they drank
nothing but water. We encamped on a pleasant hill, overlooking the river,
which seemed to be deep every where except just where we forded. In tiie
mean time, neither that chain of rocks, nor any other that we could observe
in this stream, was so uninterrupted, but tliat there wore several breaks where
a canoe, or even a moderate flat-bottomed boat, might shear clear. Nor
have we reason to believe there are any other falls (except the great ones,
thirty miles below Moniseep ford) that reacii quite acros.s, so as to interrupt
the navigation for small «raft. And I have been informed tliat, even ut those

56

THE HISTORY OF

great falls, the blowing up a few rocks would open a passage at least for
canoes, which certainly would be an unspeakable convenience to the inhabit-
ants of all that beautiful part of the country. The Indian killed a very fat
dee, and came across a bear, which had been put to death and was half devour-
ed by a pr-nther. The last of these brutes reigns absolute monarch of the
woods, and m the keenness of his hunger will venture to attack a bear ;
though V.itii it is ever by surprise, as all beasts of the cat kind use to come
upon their prey. Their play is to take the poor bears napping, they being very
drowsy animals, and though they be exceedingly strong, yet their strength is
heavy, while the panthers are too nimble and cunning to trust themselves
within their hug. As formidable as this beast is to his fellow brutes, he never
has the confidence to venture upon a man, but retires from him with great
respect, if there be a way open for his escape. However, it must be confest,
his voice is a little contemptible for a monarch of the forest, being not a great
deal louder nor more awful than the mewing of a household cat."*'

In South Carolina they call this beast a tiger, though improperly, and so
they do in some parts of the Spanish West Indies. Some of their authors, a
little more properly, compliment it with the name of a leopard. But none of
these are the growth of America, that we know of.

The whole distance the surveyors advanced the line this day amounted
to six miles and thirty poles, which was no small journey, considering the
grounds we had traversed were exceedingly rough and uneven, and in many
places intolerably entangled with bushes. All the hills we ascended w'ere
encumbered with stones, many of which seemed to contain a metallic sub-
stance, and the valleys we crossed were interrupted with miry branches.
From the top of every hill we could discern distinctly, at a great distance
to the northward, three or four ledges of mountains, rising one above
another; and on the highest of all rose a single mountain, very much resem-
bling a woman's breast.

19th. About four miles beyond the river Irvin, we forded Matrimony creek,
called so by an unfortunate married man, because it was exceedingly noisy
and impetuous. However, though the stream was clamorous, yet, like those
women who make themselves plainest heard, it w^as likewise perfectly clear
and unsullied. Still half a mile further we saw a small mountain, about
five miles to the north-west of us, which we called the Wart, because it ap-
peared no bigger than a wart, in comparison of the great mountains which
hid their haughty heads in the clouds. We were not able to extend the line
farther than five miles and one hundred and thirty five poles, notwithstanding
we began our march early in the morning, and did not encamp till it was almost
dark. We made it the later by endeavouring to quarter in some convenient
situation, either for grass or canes. But night sui-prising us, we were obliged
to lodge at last upon high and uneven ground, which was so overgrown
with shrubs and saplings, that we could hardly see ten yards around us. The
most melancholy part of the story was, that our horses had short commons.
The poor creatures were now grown so weak that they staggered when we
mounted them. Nor would our own fare have been at all more plentiful,
had we not been so provident as to carry a load of meat along with us.
Indeed, the woods were too thick to show us any sort of game but one wild
turkey, which helped to enrich our soup. To make us amends, we found

* Some authors, who have given an account of the southern continent of America,
would make the world believe there are lions ; but in all likelihood they were mistaken,
imagining these panthers to be lions. What makes this probable is, that the northern
and southern parts of America being joined by the Isthmus of Darien, if there were
lions in either they would find their way into the other, the latitudes of each being
equally proper for that generous animal.

THE DIVIDING LINE. 57

abundance of very sweet grapes, which, with the help of bread, might have
furnished out a good Italian repast, in the absence of more savoury food.
The men's mouth's watered at the sight of a prodigious flight of wild pigeons,
which flew high over our heads to the southward. The flocks of these birds
of passage are so amazingly great, sometimes, that they darken the sky ;
nor is it uncommon for them to light in such numbers in the larger limbs of
mulberry trees and oaks as to break them down. In their travels they make
vast havoc amongst the acorns and berries of all sorts, that they waste whole
forests in a short time, and leave a famine behind them for most other crea-
tures ; and under some trees where they light, it is no strange thing to find the
ground covered three inches thick with their dung. These wild pigeons
commonly breed in the uninhabited parts of Canada, and as the cold ap-
proaches assemble their armies and bend their course southerly, shifting their
quarters, like many of the winged kind, according to the season. But the
most remarkable thing in their flight, as we are told, is that they never have
been observed to return to the northern countries the same way they came
from thence, but take quite another route, I suppose for their better subsist-
ence. In these long flights they are very lean, and their flesh is far from being
white or tender, thougji good enough upon a march, when hunger is the
sauce, and makes it go down better than truffles and morels would do.

20th. It was now Sunday, which we had like to have spent in fasting as
well as prayer; for our men, taking no care for the morrow, like good Chris-
tians, but bad travellers, had improvidently devoured all their meat for sup-
per. They were ordered in the morning to drive up their horses, lest they
should stray too far from the camp and be lost, in case they w^ere let alone
all day. At their return they had the very great comfort to behold a
monstrous fat bear, which the Indian had killed very seasonably for their
breakfast. We thought it still necessary to make another reduction of our
bread, from four to three pounds a week to every man, computing that we
had still enough in that proportion to last us three weeks longer. The at-
mosphere was so smoky all round us, that the mountains were again grown
invisible. This happened not from the haziness of the sky, but from the
firing of the woods by the Indians, for we were now near the route the
the northern savages take when they go out to war against the Catawbas
and other southern nations. On their way the fires they make in
their camps are left burning, which, catching the dry leaves that lie near,
soon put the adjacent woods into a flame. Some of our men in search
of their horses discovered one of those Indian camps, where not long
before they had been a furring and dressing their skins. And now I mention
the northern Indians, it may not be improper to take notice of their implaca-
ble hatred to those of the south. Their wars are everlasting, without any
peace, enmity being the only inheritance among them that descends from
father to son, and either party will march a thousand miles to take their
revenge upon such hereditary enemies. These long expeditions are com-
monly carried on in the following manner ; some Indian, remarkable for his
prowess, that has raised himself to the reputation of a war captain, declares
his intention of paying a visit to some southern nation ; hereupon as many
of the young fellows as have either a strong thirst of blood or glory, list
themselves under his command. With these volunteers he goes from one
confederate town to another, listing all the rabble he can, till he has gathered
together a competent number for mischief. Their army are a gun and toma-
hawk, and all the provisions they carry from home is a pouch of rocka-
hominy. Thus provided and accoutred, they march towards their enemy's
country, not in a body, or by a crrtn'm path, but straggling in small numbers,
for the greater convenience of Iinntiiig and [Kissing along undiscovered.

58

THE HISTORY OF

So soon as they approach the grounds on which the enemy is used to hunt,
they never kindle any fire themselves, for fear of being found out by the
smoke, nor will they shoot at any kind of game, though they should be half
famished, lest they might alarm their foes, and put them upon their guard.
Sometimes indeed, while they are still at some distance, they roast either
venison or bear, till it is very dry, and then having strung it on their belts,
wear it round their middle, eating very sparingly of it, because they know
not when they shall meet with a fresh supply. But coming nearer, they begin
to look all round the hemisphere, to watch if any smoke ascends, and listen
continually for the report of guns, in order to make some happy discovery
for their own advantage. It is amazing to see their sagacity in discerning
the track of a human foot, even amongst dry leaves, which to our shorter
sight is quite undiscoverable. If by one or more of those signs they be
able to find out the camp of any southern Indians, they squat down in some
thicket, and keep themselves hush and snug till it is dark; then creeping up
softly, they approach near enough to observe all the motions of the enemy.
And about two o'clock in the morning, when they conceive them to be in a
profound sleep, for they never keep watch and ward, pour in a volley upon
them, each singling out his man. The moment they have discharged their
pieces, they rush in with their tomahawks, and make sure work of all that
are disabled. Sometimes, when they find the enemy asleep round their little
fire, they first pelt them with little stones to wake them, and when they get
up, fire in upon them, being in that posture a better mark than when prostrate
on the ground. Those that are killed of the enemy, or disabled, they scalp,
that is, they cut the skin all round the head just below the hair, and then
clapping their feet to the poor mortals' shoulders, pull the scalp off clean, and
carry it home in triumph, being as proud of those trophies, as the Jews used
to be of the foreskins of the Philistines. This way of scalping was practised
by the ancient Scythians, who used these haiiy scalps as towels at home, and
trappings for their horses when they went abroad. They also made cups
of their enemies' skulls, in which they drank prosperity to their country, and
confusion to all their foes. The prisoners they happen to take alive in these
expeditions generally pass their time very scurvily. They put them to all
the tortures that ingenious malice and cruelty can invent. And (what shows
the baseness of the Indian temper in perfection) they never fail to treat those
with greatest inhumanity that have distinguished themselves most by their
bravery ; and, if he be a war captain, they do him the honour to roast him
alive, and distribute a coUop to all that had a share in stealing the victory.*

They are veiy cunning in finding out new ways to torment their unhappy
captives, though, like those of hell, their usual method is by fire. Sometimes they
barbacue them over live coals, taking them off every now and then, to pro-
long their misery ; at other times they will stick sharp pieces of lightwood
all over their bodies, and setting them on fire, let them burn down into the
flesh to the very bone. And when they take a stout fellow, that they believe
able to endure a great deal, they will tear all the flesh off his bones with red
hot pincers. While these and such like barbarities are practising, the victors
are so far from being touched with tenderness and compassion, that they

* Though who can reproach the poor Indians for this, when Homer makes his celebrated
hero, Achilles, drag the body of Hector at the tail of his chariot, for having fought
gallantly in defence of his country. Nor was Alexander the Great, with all his famed
generosity, less inhuman to the brave Tyrlans, two thousand of whom he ordered to be cru-
cified in cold blood, for no other fault but for having defended their city most courageously
against him, during a siege of seven months. And what was still more brutal, he dragged

alive at the tail of his chariot, through all the streets, for defending the town with so

much vigour.

TMK DlVIDlNf^ Ll.\K. 59

dance and sing round these wretched mortals, showing all the marks of
pleasure and jollity. And if such cruelties happen to be executed in their
towns, they employ their children in tormenting the prisoners, in order to
extinguish in them betimes all sentiments of humanity. In the mean time,
while these poor wretches are under the anguish of all this Inhuman treat-
ment, they disdain so much as to groan, sigh, or show the least sign of dismay
or concern, so much as in their looks ; on the contrary', they make it a point
of honour all the time to, soften their features, and look as pleased as if they
were in the actual enjoyment of some delight ; and if they never sang before
in their lives, they will be sure to be melodious on this sad and dismal occa-
sion. So prodigious a degree of passive valour in the Indians is the more to
be wondered at, because in all articles of danger they are apt to behave like
cowards. And what is still more surprising, the very women discover, on
such occasions, as great fortitude and contempt, both of pain and death, as
the gallantest of their men can do.

21st. The apprehensions we had of losing the horses in these copse woods
were too well founded, nor were the precautions we used yesterday of
driving them up sufficient to prevent their straying away afterwards, not-
withstanding they were securely hobbled. We therefore ordered the men
out early this morning to look diligently for them, but it was late before any
could be found. It seems they had straggled in quest of forage, and, besides
all that, the bushes grew thick enough to conceal them from being seen at
the smallest distance. One of the people was so bewildered in search of his
horse, that he lost himself, being no great forester. However, because we
were willing to save time, we left two of our most expert woodsmen behind
to beat all the adjacent woods in quest of him.

In the mean while the surveyors proceeded vigorously on their business,
but were so perplexed with thickets at their first setting off, that their pro-
gress was much retarded. They were no sooner over that difficulty, but
they were obliged to encounter another. The rest of their day's woik lay
over very sharp hills, where the dry leaves were so slippery that there was
hardly any hold for their feet. Such rubs as these prevented them from
measuring more than four miles and two hundred and seventy poles. Upon
the sides of these hills the soil was rich, though full of stones, and the trees
reasonably large.

The smoke continued still to veil the mountains from our sight, which
made us long for rain, or a brisk gale of wind, to disperse it. Nor was the
loss of this wild prospect all our concern, but we were apprehensive lest the
woods should be burnt in the course of our line before us, or happen to take
fire behind us, either of which would effectually have starved the horses, and
made us all foot soldiers. But we were so happy, thank God ! as to escape
this misfortune in every part of our progress. We were exceedingly uneasy
about our lost man, knowing he had taken no provision of any kind, nor was
it much advantage towards his support, that he had taken his gun along with
him, because he had rarely been guilty of putting any thing to death. He
had unluckily wandered from the camp several miles, and after steering
sundry unsuccessful courses, in order to return, either to us or to the line,
was at length so tired he could go no farther. In this distress he sat himself
down under a tree, to recruit his jaded spirit, and at the same time indulge a
few melancholy reflections. Famine was the lirst phantom that appeared to
him, and was the more frightful, because he fiincied himself not quite bear
enough to subsist long upon licking his paws. In the mean time the two
persons we had sent after him hunted diligently great part of the day with-
out coming upon his track. They fired their pieces towards every point ol
the compass, but could perceive no firing in return. However, advancing a

60 'i'HE HISTORY OF

little farther, at last they made a lucky shot, that our straggler had the good
fortune to hear, and he returning the salute, they soon found each other Vith
no small satisfaction. But though they lighted on the man, they could by no
means light on his horse, and therefore he was obliged to be a foot soldier
all the rest of the journey. Our Indian shot a bear so prodigiously fat, that
there was no way to kill him but by firing in at his ear. The fore part of the
skull of that animal being guarded by a double bone, is hardly penetrable,
and when it is very fat, a bullet aimed at his body is apt to lose its force, be-
fore it reaches the vitals. This animal is of the dog kind, and our Indians, as
well as woodsmen, are as fond of its flesh as the Chinese can be of that of
the common hound.

22d. Early in the morning we sent back two men to make further search
for the horse that was strayed away. We were unwilling the poor man
should sustain such a damage as would eat out a large part of his pay, or
that the public should be at the expense of reimbursing him for it. These
foresters hunted all over the neighbouring woods, and took as much pains as
if the horse had been their own property, but all their diligence was to no
purpose. The surveyors, in the mean time, being fearful of leaving these
men too far behind, advanced the line no farther than one mile and two hun-
dred and thirty poles. As we rode along we found no less than tliree bears
and a fat doe, that our Indian, who went out before us, had thrown in our
course, and we w'ere very glad to pick them up. About a mile from the
camp we crossed Miry creek, so called because several of the horses were
mired in its branches. About two hundred and thirty poles beyond that, the
line intersected another river, that seemed to be a branch of the Irvin, to
which we gave the name of the Mayo, in complement to the other of our
surveyors. It was about fifty yards wide where we forded it, being just
below a ledge of rocks, which reached across the river, and made a natural
cascade. Our horses could hardly keep their feet over these slippery rocks,
which gave some of their riders no small palpitation. This river forks about
a quarter of a mile below the ford, and has some scattering canes growing
near the mouth of it. We pitched our tent on the western banks of the
Mayo, for the pleasure of being lulled to sleep by the cascade. Here our
hunters had leisure to go out and try their fortunes, and returned loaded
with spoil. They brought in no less than six bears, exceedingly fat, so that
the frying pan had no rest all night. We had now the opportunity of trying
the speed of this lumpish animal by a fair course it had with the nimblest
of our surveyors. A cub of a year old will run very fast, because, being
upon his growth, he is never encumbered with too much fat ; but the old
ones are more sluggish and unwieldy, especially when mast is plenty. Then
their nimblest gait is only a heavy gallop, and their motion is still slower
down hill, where they are obliged to sidle along very awkwardly, to keep
their lights from rising up into their throat. These beasts always endeavour to
avoid a man, except they are wounded, or happen to be engaged in the pro-
tection of their cubs. By the force of these instincts and that of self preserv-
ation, they will now and then throw oft' all reverence for their Maker's
image. For that reason, excess of hunger will provoke them to the same
desperate attack, for the support of their being. A memorable instance of
the last case is said to have happened not long ago in New England, where a
bear assaulted a man just by his own door, and rearing himself upon his
haunches, offered to take him lovingly into his hug. But the man's wife ob-
serving the danger her husband was in, had the courage to run behind the
bear, and thrust her two thumbs into his eyes. This made Bruin quit the
man, and turn short upon the woman to take his revenge, but she had the
presence of mind to spring back with more than female agility, and so both
their lives were jueserved.

THE DIVIDING LIISE. 6 1

23d. At the distance of sixty-two poles from where we lay, we crossed
the south branch of what we took for the Irvin, nor was it without difficulty
we got over, though it happened to be without damage. Great part of the
way after that was mountainous, so that we were no sooner got down one
hill, but we were obliged to climb up another. Only for the last mile of our
stage, we encountered a locust thicket that was level, but interlaced terribly
with briers and grape vines. We forded a large creek, no less than five
times, the banks of which were so steep that we were forced to cut them
down with a hoe. We gave it the name of Crooked creek, because of its
meanders. The sides of Tt were planted with shrub-canes, extremely inviting
to the horses, which were now quite jaded with clambering up so many pre-
cipices, and tugging through so many dismal thickets, notwithstanding which
we pushed the line this day four miles sixty-nine poles. The men were so
unthrifty this morning as to bring but a small portion of their abundance
along with them. This was the more unlucky, because we could discover
no sort of game the whole livelong day. Woodsmen are certainly good
Christians in one respect, at least, that they always leave the morrow to care
for itself; though for that very reason they ought to pray more fervently for
their daily bread than most of them remember to do.

The mountains were still concealed from our eyes by a cloud of smoke.
As we went along we were alarmed at the sight of a great fire, which showed
itself to the northward. This made our small corps march in closer order
than we used to do, lest perchance we might be waylaid by Indians. It
made us look out sharp to see if we could discover any track or other token
of these insidious foresters, but found none. In the m.ean time we came
often upon the track of bears, which cannot without some skill be distin-
guished from that of human creatures, made with naked feet. And indeed a
young woodsman would be puzzled to find out the difference, wiiich consists
principally in a bear's paws being something smaller than a man's foot, and
in its leaving sometimes the mark of its claws in the impression made upon
the ground.

The soil, where the locust thicket grew, was exceedingly rich, as it con-
stantly is, where that kind of tree is naturally and largely produced. But
the desolation made there lately, either by fire or caterpillars, had been so
general, that we could not see a tree of any bigness standing within our pros-
pect. And the reason why a fire makes such a havoc in these lonely parts is
this. The woods are not there burnt every year, as they generally are amongst
the inhabitants. But the dead leaves and trash of many years are heaped
up together, which being at length kindled by the Indians that happen to pass
that way, furnish fuel for a conflagration that carries all before it. Tlicre
is a beautiful range of hills, as le\-cl as a terrace-walk, that overlooks the
valley through which Crooked creek conveys its spiral stream. This terrace
runs pretty near east and west, about two miles south of the line, and is
almost parallel with it. The horses had been too nuich harassed to permit
us to ride at all out of our way, for the pleasure of any prospect, or the
gratification of any curiosity. This confined us to the narrow sphere of our
business, and is at the same time a just excuse for not animating our story
with greater variety.

24th. The surveyors went out the sooner this morning, by reason the men
lost very little time in cooking their breakfast. They had made but a spare
meal over night, leaving nothing but the hide of a bear for the morrow.
Some of the keenest of them got up at midnight to cook that nice morsel after
the Indian manner. They fust singed the liair clean off, that none of it might
stick in their throats ; then they boiled the pelt into soup, which had a stratum

I

grt THE HISTORY OF

of grease swimming upon it full half an inch thick. However, they commend-
ed this dish extremely ; though I believe the praises they gave it were more
owing to their good stomach than to their good taste. The line was extended
six miles and three hundred poles, and in that distance crossed Crooked creek
at least eight times more. We were forced to scuffle through a thicket about
two miles in breadth, planted with locusts and hickory saplings, as close as
they could stand together. Amongst these there was hardly a tree of tolera-
ble growth within view. It was a dead plane of several miles extent, and
very fertile soil. Beyond that the woods were open for about three miles, but
mountainous. All the rest of our day's journey was pestered with bushes
and grape vines, in the thickest of which Ave were obliged to take up our
quarters, near one of the branches of Crooked creek. This night it was the
men's good fortune to fare very sumptuously. The Indian had killed two
large bears, the fattest of which he had taken napping. One of the people
too shot a rackoon, which is also of the dog kind, and as big as a small fox,
though its legs are shorter, and when fat has a much higher relish than either
mutton or kid. It is naturally not carnivorous, but very fond of Indian corn
and persimmons. The fat of this animal is reckoned very good to assuage
swellings and inflammations. Some old maids are at the trouble of breeding
them up tame, for the pleasure of seeing them play over as many humorous
tricks as a monkey. It climbs up small trees, like a bear, by embracing the
bodies of them. Till this night we had accustomed ourselves to go to bed
in our night-gowns, believing we should thereby be better secured from the
cold : but upon trial found we lay much warmer by stripping to our shirts,
and spreading our gowns over us. A true woodsman, if he have no more
than a single blanket, constantly pulls all off, and, lying on one part of it,
draws the other over him, believing it much more refreshing to lie so, than in
his clothes ; and if he find himself not warm enough, shifts his lodging to
leeward of the fire, in which situation the smoke will drive over him, and
effectually correct the cold dews, that would otherwise descend upon his
person, perhaps to his great damage.

25th. The air clearing up this morning, we were again agreeably sur-
prised with a full prospect of the mountains. They discovered themselves
both to the north and south of us, on either side, not distant above ten miles,
according to our best computation. We could now see those to the north
rise in four distinct ledges, one above another, but those to the south formed
only a single ledge, and that broken and interrupted in many places ; or ra-
ther they were only single mountains detached from each other. One of the
southern mountains was so vastly high, it seemed to hide its head in the
clouds, and the west end of it terminated in a horrible precipice, that we
called the Despairing Lover's Leap. The next to it, towards the east, was
lower, except at one end, where it heaved itself up in the form of a vast
stack of chimneys. The course of the northern mountains seemed to tend
west-south-west, and those to the southward very near west. We could
descry other mountains ahead of us, exactly in the course of the line, though
at a much greater distance. In this point of view, the ledges on the right
and left both seemed to close, and form a natural amphitheatre. Thus it
was our fortune to be wedged in betwixt these two ranges of mountains, in-
somuch that if our line had run ten miles on either side, it had butted before
this day either upon one or the other, both of them now stretching away
plainly to the eastward of us. It had rained a little in the night, which dis-
persed the smoke and opened this romantic scene to us all at once, though it
was again hid from our eyes as we moved forwards, by the rough woods we
had the misfortune to be engaged with. The bushes were so thick for near
four miles together, that they tore the deer' skins to pieces that guarded the

THE DIVIDING LINE. 63

bread bags. Though, as rough as the woods were, the soil was extremely-
good all the way, being washed down from the neighbouring hills into the
plain country. Notwithstanding all these difficulties,, the surveyors drove
on the line four miles and two hundred and five poles.

In the mean time we were so unlucky as to meet with no sort of game
the v/hole day, so that the men were obliged to make a frugal distribution of
what little they left in the morning. We encamped upon a small rill, where
the horses came off" as temperately as their masters. They were by this
time grown so thin, by hard travel and spare feeding, that henceforth, in pure
compassion, we chose to perform the greater part of the journey on foot.
And as our baggage was by this time grown much lighter, we divided it,
after the best manner, so that every horse's load might be proportioned to the
strength he had left. Though, after all the prudent measures we could take,
we perceived the hills began to rise upon us so fast in our front, that it would
be impossible for us to proceed much farther.

We saw very few squirrels in the upper parts, because the wild cats de-
vour them unmercifully. Of these there are four kinds : the fox squirrel, the
gray, the flying, and the ground squirrel. These last resemble a rat in every
thing but the tail, and the black and russet streaks that run down the length
of their little bodies.

26th. We found our way grow still more mountainous, after extending
the line three hundred poles farther. We came then to a rivulet that ran
with a swift current towards the south. This we fancied to be another
branch of the Irvin, though some of the men, who had been Indian traders,
judged it rather to be the head of Deep river, that discharges its stream into
that of Pee Dee ; but this seemed a wild conjecture. The hills beyond that
river were exceedingly lofty, and not to be attempted by our jaded palfreys,
which could now hardly drag their legs after them upon level ground. Be-
sides, the bread began to grow scanty, and the winter season to advance
apace upon us. We had likewise reason to apprehend the consequences of
being intercepted by deep snows, and the swelling of the many waters
between us and home. The first of these misfortunes would starve all our
horses, and the other ourselves, by cutting off our retreat, and obliging us to
winter in those desolate woods. These considerations determined us to stop
short here, and push our adventures no farther. The last tree we marked
was a red oak, growing on the bank of the river ; and to make the place
more remarkable, we blazed all the trees around it.

We found the whole distance, from Coratuck inlet to the rivulet where we
left off, to be, in a straight line, two hundred and forty-one miles and two
hundred and thirty poles. And from the place where the Carolina commis-
sioners deserted us, seventy-two miles and three hundred and two poles.
This last part of the journey was generally very hilly, or else grown up with
troublesome thickets and underwoods, all which our Carolina friends had the
discretion to avoid. We encamped in a dirty valley near the rivulet above-
mentioned, for the advantage of the canes, and so sacrificed our own conve-
nience to that of our horses. There was a small mountain half a mile to
the northward of us, which we had the curiosity to climb up in the afternoon,
in order to enlarge our prospect. From thence we were able to discover
where the two ledges of mountains closed, as near as we could guess, about
thirty miles to the west of us, and lamented that our present circumstances
would not permit us to advance tlie line to that place, which the hand of Na-
ture had made so very remarkable.

Not far from our quarters one of the men picked up a pair of elk's horns,
not very large, and discovered the track of the oik that had shed thcni. It
was rare to funl any tokens of those animals so lar to the south, because

64

THE HISTORY OF

they keep commonly to the northward of thirty-seven degrees, as the buffa-
loes, for the most part, confine themselves to the southward of that latitude.
The elk is full as big as a horse, and of the deer kind. The stags only have
horns, and those exceedingly large and spreading. Their colour is some-
thing lighter than that of the red deer, and their flesh tougher. Their swift-
est speed is a large trot, and in that motion they turn their horns back upon
their necks, and cock their noses aloft in the air. Nature has taught them
this attitude to save their antlers from being entangled in the thickets, which
they always retire to. They are very shy, and have the sense of smelling so
exquisite that they wind a man at a great distance. For this reason they are
seldom seen but when the air is moist, in which case their smell is not so
nice. They commonly herd together, and the Indians say, if one of the
drove happen by some wound to be disabled from making his escape, the
rest will forsake- their fears to defend their friend, which they will do with
great obstinacy, till they are killed upon the spot. Though, otherwise, they
are so alarmed at the sight of a man, that to avoid him they will sometimes
throw themselves down very high precipices into the river.

A misadventure happened here, which gave us no small perplexity. One
of the commissioners was so unlucky as to bruise his foot against a stump,
which brought on a formal fit of the gout. It must be owned there could
not be a more unseasonable time, nor a more improper situation, for any one
to. be attacked by that cruel distemper. The joint was so inflamed that he
could neither draw shoe nor boot upon it ; and to ride without either would
have exposed him to so many rude knocks and bruises, in those rough woods,
as to be intolerable even to a stoic. It was happy, indeed, that we were to
rest here the next day, being Sunday, that there might be leisure for trying
some speedy remedy. Accordingly he was persuaded to bathe his foot in
cold water, in order to repel the humour and assuage the inflammation. This
made it less painful, and gave us hopes, too, of reducing the swelling in a
short time.

Our men had the fortune to kill a brace of bears, a fat buck, and a wild
turkey, all which paid them with interest for yesterday's abstinence. This
constant and seasonable supply of our daily wants made us reflect thankfully
on the bounty of Providence. And that we might not be unmindful of being
all along fed by Heaven in this great and solitary wilderness, we agreed to
wear in our hats the maosti, which is, in Indian, the beard of a wild turkey-
cock, and on our breasts the figure of that fowl with its wings extended, and
holding in its claws a scroll, with this motto, " Vice coturmcum," meaning that
we had been supported by them in the wilderness in the room of quails.

27th. This being Sunday we were not wanting in our thanks to Heaven
for the constant support and protection we had been favoured with. Nor
did our chaplain fail to put us in mind of our duty by a sermon proper for
the occasion. We ordered a strict inquiiy to be made into the quantity of
bread we had left, and found no more than would subsist us a fortnight at
short allowance. We made a fair distribution of our whole stock, and at
the same time recommended to the men to manage this, their last stake, to the
best advantage, not knowing how long they would be obliged to live upon it.
We likewise directed them to keep a watchful eye upon their horses, that
none of them might be missing the next morning, to hinder our return.
There fell some rain before noon, which made our camp more a bog than it
was tefore. This moist situation began to infect some of the men with fevers,
and some with fluxes, which however we soon removed with Peruvian bark
and ipocoacanah. In the afternoon we marched up again to the top of
the hill to entertain our eyes a second time with the view of the mountains,
but a perverse fog arose that hid them from our sight. In the evening we

THE DIVIDING LINE 65

deliberated which way it might be most proper to return. We had at first
intended to cross over at the foot of the mountains to the head of James
river, that we might be able to describe that natural boundary so far. But,
on second thonglrts, \vc found many good reasons against that laudable de-
sign, such as the weakness of our horses, the scantiness of our bread, and the
near approach of winter. We had cause to believe the way might be full
of hills, and the farther we went towards the north, the more danger there
would be of snow. Such considerations as these determined us at last to
make the best of our way back upon the line, which was the straightest, and
consequently the shortest way to the inhabitants. We knew the worst of
our course, and were sure of a beaten path all the way, while we were totally
ignorant what difficulties and dangers the other course might be attended
with. So prudence got the better for once of curiosity, and the itch for
new discoveries gave place to self-preservation. Our inclination was the
stronger to cross over according to the course of the mountains, that we
might find out whether James river and Appomattox river head there, or
run quite through them. It is certain that Potomac passes in a large stream
through the main ledge, and then divides itself into two considerable rivers.
That which stretches away to the northward is called Cohungaroota,* and
that which flows to the south-west, hath the name of Sharantow. The course
of this last stream is near parrallel to the Blue Ridge of mountains, at the dis-
tance only of about three or four miles. Though how far it may continue
that course has not yet been sufficiently discovered, but some woodsmen pre-
tend to say it runs as far as the source of Roanoke ; nay, they are so very
particular as to tell us that Roanoke, Sharantow, and another wide branch of
Mississippi, all head in one and the same mountain. What dependence there
may be upon this conjectural geography, I will not pretend to say, though it is
certain that Sharantow keeps close to the mountains, as far as we are
acquainted with its tendency. We are likewise assured that the south branch
of James river, within less than twenty miles east of the main ledge, makes
an elbow, and runs due south-west, which is parallel with the mountains on
this side. But how far it stretches that way, before it returns, is not yet cer-
tainly known, no more than where it takes its rise.

In the mean time it is strange that our woodsmen have not had curiosity
enough to inform themselves more exactly of these particulars, and it is
stranger still that the government has never thought it worth the expense of
making an accurate survey of the mountains, that we might be masters of
that natural fortification before the French, who in some places have settle-
ments not very distant from it. It therefore concerns his majesty's service
very nearly, and the safety of his subjects in this part of the world, to take
possession of so important a barrier in time, lest our good friends, the French,
and the Indians, through their means, prove a perpetual annoyance to these
colonies. Another reason to invite us to secure this great ledge of mountains
is, the probability that very valuable mines may be discovered there. Nor
would it be at all extravagant to hope for silver mines, among the rest, be-
cause part of these moyntains lie exactly in the same parallel, as well as
upon the same continent with New Mexico, and the mines of St. Barb.

28th. We had given orders for the horses to be brought up early, but the
likelihood of more rain prevented our being over-hasty in decamping. Nor
were we out in our conjectures, for about ten o'clock it began to fall very
plentifully. Our commissioner's pain began now to abate, as the swelling
increased. He made an excellent figure for a mountaineer, with one boot of

* Which by a late survey has been found to extend above two hundred miles before it
reaches its source, in a mountain, from whence Allegany, one of the branchei of Misfit-
■ippi, takes its rise, and runs touth-west, as this river does south-east.

QQ THE HISTORY OF

leather and the other of flannel. Thus accoutred, he intended to mount, if
the rain had not happened opportunely to prevent him. Though, in truth, it
was hardly possible for him to ride with so slender a defence, without expos-
ing his foot to be bruised and tormented by the saplings, that stood thick on
either side of the path. It was therefore a most seasonable rain for him, as
it gave more time for his distemper to abate. Though it may be very dif-
ficult to find a certain cure for the gout, yet it is not improbable but some
things may ease the pain, and shorten the fits of it. And those medicines
are most likely to do this, that supple the parts, and clear the passage through
the narrow vessels, that are the seat of this cruel disease. Nothing will do
this more suddenly than rattle-snake's oil, which will even penetrate the pores
of glass when warmed in the sun. It was unfortunate, therefore, that we had
not taken out the fat of those snakes we had killed some time before, for the
benefit of so usefiil an experiment, as well as for the relief of our fellow-tra-
veller. But lately the Seneca rattle-snake root has been discovered in this
country, which being infused in wine, and drunk morning and evening, has
in several instances had a very happy effect upon the gout, and enabled crip-
ples to throw away their crutches and walk several miles, and, what is
stranger still, it takes away the pain in half an hour. Nor was the gout the
only disease amongst us that v.-as hard to cure. We had a man in our
company who had too voracious a stomach for a woodsman. He ate as
much as any other two, but all he swallowed stuck by him till it was carried
off" by a strong purge. Without this assistance, often repeated, his belly and
bowels would swell to so enormous a bulk that he could hardly breathe, es-
pecially when he lay down, just as if he had had an asthma ; though, notwith-
standing this oddness of constitution, he was a very strong, lively fellow, and
used abundance of violent exercise, by which it was wonderful the peristal-
tic motion was not more vigorously promoted. We gave this poor man
several purges, which only eased him for the present, and the next day he
would grow as burly as ever. At last we gave him a moderate dose of ipo-
coacanah, in broth made very salt, which turned all its operation downwards.
This had so happy an effect that, from that day forward to the end of our
journey, all his complaints ceased, and the passages continued unobstructed.

The rain continued most of the day and some part of the night, which in-
commoded us much in our dirty camp, and made the men think of nothing
but eating, even at the time when nobody could stir out to make provision
for it.

29th. Though we were flattered in the morning with the usual tokens of
a fair day, yet they all blew over, and it rained hard before we could make
ready for our departure. This was still in favour of our podagrous friend,
whose lameness was now grown better, and the inflammation fallen. Nor did
it seem to need above one day more to reduce it to its natural proportion, and
make it fit for the boot ; and effectually the rain procured this benefit for
him, and gave him particular reason to believe his stars propitious. Notwith-
standing the falling weather, our hunters sallied out in the afternoon, and
drove the woods in a ring, which was thus performed. From the circumfer-
ence of a large circle they all marched inwards and' drove the game towards
the centre. By this means they shot a brace of fat bears, which came very
seasonably, because we had made clean work in the morning and were in
danger of dining with St. Anthony, or his grace Duke Humphry, But in
this expedition the unhappy man who had lost himself once before, straggled
again so far in pursuit of a deer, that he was hurried a second time quite out of
his knowledge ; and night coming on before he could recover the camp, he was
obliged to lie down, without any of the comforts of fire, food or covering;
nor would his fears suffer him to sleep very sound, because, to his great dis-

THE DIVIDINIJ LIJNF,. 67

turbance, the wolves howled all that night, and the panthers screamed most
frightfully. In the evening a brisk north-wester swept all the clouds from
the sky, and exposed the mountains as well as the stars to our prospect.
That which was the most lofty to the southward, and which we called the
Lover's Leap, some of our Indian traders fondly fancied was the Kiawan
mountain, which they had formerly seen from the country of the Cherokees.
They were the more positive by reason of the prodigious precipice that re-
markably distinguished the west end of it. We seemed however not to be .
far enough south for that, though it is not improbable but a few miles farther
the course of our line might carry us to the most northerly towns of the
Cherokees. What makes this the more credible, is the north-west course,
that our traders take from the Catawbas for some hundred miles together,
when they carry goods that round-about way to the Cherokees. It was a
great pity that the want of bread, and the weakness of our horses, hindered us
from making the discovery. Though the great service such an excursion might
have been to the country would certainly have made the attempt not only
pardonable, but much to be commended. Our traders are now at the vast
charge and fatigue of travelling above five hundred miles for the benefit of
that traffic which hardly quits cost. Would it not then be worth the as-
sembly's while to be at some charge to find a shorter cut to carry on so pro-
fitable a trade, with more advantage, and less hazard and trouble, than they
do at present T For I am persuaded it will not then be half the distance that
our traders make it now, nor half so far as Georgia lies from the northern
clans of that nation. Such a discovery would certainly prove an unspeak-
able advantage to this colony, by facilitating a trade with so considerable a
nation of Indians, which have sixty-two towns, and more than four thousand
fighting men. Our traders at that rate would be able to undersell those sent
from the other colonies so much, that the Indians must have reason to deal
with them preferable to all others. Of late the new colony of Georgia has
made an act obliging us to go four hundred miles to take out a license to
traffic with these Cherokees, though many of their towns lie out of their
bounds, and we had carried on this trade eighty years before that colony was
thought of

30th. In the morning early the man who had gone astray the day before
found his way to the camp, by the sound of the bells that were upon the
horses' necks. At nine o'clock we began our march back towards the rising
sun ; for though we had finished the line, yet we had not yet near finished
our fatigue. We had after all two hundred good miles at least to our several
habitations, and the horses were brought so low, that we were obliged to
travel on foot great part of the way, and that in our boots, too, to save our
legs from being torn to pieces by the bushes and briers. Had we not done
this, we must have left all our horses behind, wlv'^h could now hardly drag
their legs after them, and with all the favour we could show the poor animals,
we were forced to set seven of them free, not far from the foot of the moun-
tains. Four men were despatched early to clear the road, that our lame
commissioner's leg might be in less danger of being bruised, and that the
baggage horses might travel with less difficulty and morecxpetlition. As we
passed along, by favour of a serene sky, we had still, from every eminence, a
perfect view of the mountains, as well to the north as to the south. We
could not forbear now and then facing about to survey them, as if unwilling
to part with a prospect, which at the same time, like some rake's, was very
wild and very agreeable. We encouraged the horses to exert the little
strength they had, and being light, they made a shift to jog on about eleven
miles. We encamped on (/"rooked creek, near a thicket of canes. In the
front of our camp rose a very beautiful hill, that tuninded (mu- view at about a

68 THE HISTORY 01'

mile's distance, and all the intermediate space was covered with green canes.
Though, to our sorrow, fire-wood was scarce, which was now the harder
upon us, because a north-wester blew very cold froiB the mountains.

The Indian killed a stately, fat buck, and we picked his bones as clean as a
score of turkey-buzzards could have done. By the advantage of a clear
night, we made trial once more of the variation, and found it much the same
as formerly. This being his majesty's birthday, we drank aU the loyal healths
in excellent water, not for the sake of the drink, (like many of our fellow sub-
jects,) but purely for the sake ut the toast. And because all public mirth
should be a little noisy, we fii-ed several volleys of canes, instead of guns,
which gave a loud report. We threw them into the lire, where the air en-
closed betwixt the joints of the canes, being expanded by the violent heat,
burst its narrow bounds with a considerable explosion :

In the evening one of the men knocked down an opossum, which is a
harmless little beast, that will seldom go out of your way, and if you take
hold of it, will only grin, and hardly ever bite. The flesh was well tasted
and tender, approaching nearest to pig, which it also resembles in bigness.
The colour of its fur was a goose gray, with a swine's snout, and a tail like
a rat's, but at least a foot long. By twisting this tail about the arm of a tree,
it will hang with all its weight, and swing to any thing it wants to take hold
of. It has five claws on the fore feet of equal length, but the hinder feet have
only four claws, and a sort of thumb standing off at a proper distance.
Their feet being thus formed, qualify them for climbing up trees to catch little
birds, which they are very fond of But the greatest particularity of this
creature, and which distinguishes it from most others that we are acquainted
with, is the false belly of the female, into which her young retreat in time of
danger. She can draw the slit, which is the inlet into this pouch, so close,
that you must look narrowly to find it, especially if she happen to be a virgin.
Within the false belly may be seen seven or eight teats, on which the young
ones grow from their first formation till they are big enough to fall off, like
ripe fruit from a tree. This is so odd a method of generation, that I should
not have believed it without the testimony of mine own eye.s. Besides a
knowing and credible person has assured me he has more than once observed
the embryo opossums growing to the teat before they were completely shaped,
and afterwards watched their daily growth till they were big enough for
birth. And all this he could tlie more easily pry into, because the dam was
so perfectly gentle and harmless, that he could handle her just as he pleased.
I could hardly persuade myself to publish a thing so contrary to the course
that nature takes in the production of other animals, unless it were a matter
commonly believed in all countries where that creature is produced, and has
been often observed by persons of undoubted credit and understanding.
They say that the leather-winged bats produce their young in the same un-
common manner. And that young sharks at sea, and young vipers ashore,
run down the throats of their dams when they are closely pursued.

The frequent crossing of Crooked creek, and mounting the steep banks of
it, gave the finishing stroke to the foundering our horses : and no less than
two of them made a full stop here, and would not advance a foot farther, either
by fair means or foul. We had a dreamer of dreams amongst us, who
warned me in the morning to take care of myself, or I should infallibly fall
into the creek ; I thanked him kindly, and used what caution I could, but was
not able it seems to avoid my destiny, for my horse made a false step and
laid me down at my full length in the water. This was enough to bring
dreaming into credit, and I think it much for the honour of our expedition,
that it was graced not only with a priest but also with a prophet. We were
so perplexed with this serpentine creek, as well as in passing the branches of

THE DIVIDING LINE. gg

the Irvin, (which were swelled since we saw them before,) that we could reach
but five miles this whole day. In the evening we pitched our tent near Miry
creek, (though an uncomfortable place to lodge in) purely for the advantage
of the canes. Our hunters killed a large doe and two bears, which made all
other misfortunes easy. Certainly no Tartar ever loved horse-flesh, nor
Hottentot guts and garbage, better than woodsmen do bear. The truth of it
is, it may be proper food perhaps for such as work or ride it off, but, with our
chaplain's leave, who loved it much, I think it not a very proper diet
for saints, who do not mortify the flesh by toil. And now, for the good
of mankind, and for the better peopling an infant colony, which has no
want but that of inhabitants, I will venture to publish a secret of importance,
which our Indian disclosed to me. I asked him the reason why few or none
of his countrywomen were barren ! To which curious question he answered,
with a broad grin upon his face, they had an infallible secret for that. Upon
my being importunate to know what the secret might be, he informed me
that, if any Indian woman did not prove with child at a decent time after
marriage, the husband, to save his reputation with the women, forthwith en-
tered into a bear-diet for six weeks, which in that time produces such healthy
effect, that it is great odds but his wife becomes a mother in nine months.
And thus much I am able to say, besides, for the reputation of the bear
diet, that all the married men of our company were joyful fathers within
forty weeks after they got home, and most of the single men had children
sworn to them within the same time, our chaplain always excepted, who,
with much ado, made a shift to cast out that importunate kind of devil, by
dint of fasting and prayer.

November 1st. By the negligence of one of the men in not hobbling his
horse, he straggled so far that he could not be found. This stopped us all
the morning long ; yet, because our time should not be entirely lost, we en-
deavoured to observe the latitude at twelve o'clock. Though our observa-
tion was not perfect, by reason the wind blew a little too fresh, however, by
such a one as we could make, we found ourselves in thirty-six degrees twenty
minutes only. Notwithstanding our being thus delayed, and the uneveness
of the ground, over which we were obliged to walk, (for most of us
served now in the infantry,) we travelled no less than six miles, though as
merciful as we were to our poor beasts, another of them tired by the way,
and was left behind for the wolves and panthers to feast upon.

As we marched along, we had the fortune to kill a brace of bucks, as many
bears, and one wild turkey. But this was carrying our sport to wanton-
ness, because we butchered more than we were able to transport. "We
ordered the deer to be quartered and divided among the horses for the lighter
carriage, and recommended the bears to our daily attendants, the turkey-
buzzards. We always chose to carry venison along witii us ratlier than
bear, not only because it was less cumbersome, but likewise because the peo-
ple could eat it without bread, which was now almost spent. Whereas the
other, being richer food, lay too heavy upon the stomarh, unless it were light-
ened by something farinaceous. This is what I tiiought proper to remark,
for the service of all those whose business or diversion shall ol)iige them to
live any time in the woods. And because I am persuaded that Very useful
matters may be found out by searching this great wilderness, especially the
upper parts of it, about the mountains, I conceive it will help to engage able
men in that good work, if I recommend a wholesome kind of food, of very
small weight and very great nourishment, that will secure them from starving,
in case they should be so unhu-ky as to meet with no game. The chief dis-
couragement at present from penetrating far into the woods is the trouble of
carrying a load of provisions. I must own famitit- is a frightful monster, and

K

70

THE HISTORY OP

for that reason to be guarded against as well as we can. But the common
precautions against it, are so burthensome, that people cannot tarry long out,
and go far enough from home, to make any effectual discovery. The porta-
ble provisions I would furnish our foresters withal are glue-broth and
rockahominy: one contains the essence of bread, the other of meat. The
l)est way of making the glue-broth is after the following method : Take a
leg of beef, veal, venison, or any other young meat, because old meat will not
so easily jelly. Pare off all the fat, in which there is no nutriment, and of the
lean make a very strong broth, after the usual manner, by boiling the meat
to rags till all the goodness be out. After skimming off what fat remains,
pour the broth into a wide stew-pan, well tinned, and let it simm.er over a
gentle even fire, till it come to a thick jelly. Then take it off and set it over
boiling water, which is an evener heat, and not so apt to burn the broth to
the vessel. Over that let it evaporate, stirring it very often till it be reduced,
when cold, into a solid substance like glue. Then cut it into small pieces, laying
them single in the cold, that they may dry the sooner. When the pieces are
perfectly" dry, put them into a canister, and they will be good, if kept
dry, a whole East India voyage. This glue is so strong, that two or three
drachms, dissolved in boiling water with a little salt, will make half a pint of
good broth, and if you should be faint with fasting or fatigue, let a small piece
of this glue melt in your mouth, and you will find yourself surprisingly re-
freshed. One pound of this cookery would keep a man in good heart above
a month, and is not only nourishing, but likewise very wholesome. Particu-
larly it is good against fluxes, which woodsmen are very liable to, by lying-
too near the moist ground, and guzzling too much cold water. But as it will
be only used now and then, in times of scarcity, when game is wanting, two
pounds of it will be enough for a journey of six months. But this broth will
be still more heartening, if you thicken every mess with half a spoonful of
rockahominy, which is nothing but Indian corn parched without burning, and
reduced to powder. The fire drives out all the watery parts of the corn,
leaving the strength of it behind, and this being very dry, becomes much
lighter^ for carriage and less liable to be spoiled by the moist air. Thus half a
dozen pounds of this sprightful bread will sustain a man for as many months,
provided he husband it well, and always spare it when he meets with venison,
which, as I said before, may be very safely eaten without any bread at all.
By what I have said, a man need not encumber himself with more than
eight or ten pounds of provisions, though he continue half a year in the
woods. These and his gun will support him very well during that time, with-
out the least danger of keeping one single fast. And though some of his
days may be what the French call jours maigres, yet there will happen no
more of those than will be necessary for his health, and to carry oif the
excesses of the days of plenty, when our travellers will be apt to indulge
their lawless appetites too much.

2d. The heavens frowned this morning, and threatened abundance of
rain, but our zeal for returning made us defy the weather, and decamp a little
before noon. Yet we had not advanced two miles, before a soaking shower
made us glad to pitch our tent as fast as we could. We chose for that pur-
pose a rising ground, half a mile to the east of Matrimony creek. This was
the first and only time we were caught in the rain, during the v/hole expe-
dition. It used before to be so civil as to fall in the night, after we were safe
in our quarters, and had trenched ourselves in; or else it came upon us on
Sundays, when it was no interruption to our progress, nor any inconvenience
to our persons. We had, however, been so lucky in this particular before,
that we had abundant reason to take our present soaking patiently, and the
misfortune was the less, because we had taken precaution to keep all our

THE DIVIDING LINE. ,j «

baggage and bedding perfectly dry. This rain was enlivened with very loud
thunder, which was echoed back by the hills in the neighbourhood in a fright-
ful manner. There is something in the woods that niakes the sound of this
meteor more awful, and the violence of the lightning more visible. The
trees are frequently shivered quite down to the root, and sometimes perfectly
twisled. But of all the effects of lightning that ever I heard of, the most
amazing happened in this country, in the year 17S6. In the siunmei- of that
year a surgeon of a ship, whose name was Davis, cam.e ashore at York to
visit a patient. He was no sooner got iiito the house, but it began to rain
with many terrible claps of thunder. When it was almost dark There came
a dreadful flash of lightning, which struck the surgeon dead as he was walk-
ing about the room, but hurt no other person, though several were rear him.
At the same time it made a large hole in the trunk of a pine tree, which grew
about ten feet from the window. But what was most surprising in this^ dis-
aster was, that on the breast of the unfortunate man that was killed was
the figure of a pine tree, as exactly delineated as any limner in the world
could draw it, nay, the resemblance went so far as to represent the colour
of the pine, as well as the figure. The lightning must probably have passed
through the tree first before it struck the man, and by that means have printed
the icon of it on his breast. But whatever may have been the cause, the eflfect
was certain, and can be attested by a cloud of witnesses who had the curi-
osity to go and see this wonderful phenomenon. The worst of it was, we
were forced to encamp in a barren place, where there was hardly a blade
of grass to be seen, even the wild rosemary filled us here, which gave rs
but too just apprehensions that we should not "only be obli<ied to trudrre all
the way home on foot, but also to lug our baggage at our ba^cks into the" bar-
gain. Thus we learned by our own experience, that horses are very impro-
per animals to use in a long ramble into the woods, and the better they have
been used to be fed, they are still the worse. Such will fall away a crcat
deal faster, and fail much sooner, than those which are wont to be at "their
own keeping. Besides, horses that have been accustom.ed to a plain and
champaign country will founder presentl3% when they come to c'amber up
hills, and batter their hoofs against continual rocks. We need Wchh runts,
and Highland Galloways to climb our mountains withal ; they are used to
precipices, and will bite as close as Bansfead Down sheep. But I should much
rather recommend mules, if we had them, for these long and painful expe-
ditions; though, till they can be bred, certainly asses are the fittest beasts of
burthen for the mountains. They are surefooted, patient under the heaviest
fatigue, and will subsist upon moss, or browsing on shrubs all the winter
One of them will carry the necessary luggage of four men, without any dif-
ficulty, and upon a pinch will take a quarter of bear or venison upon their
backs into the bargain. Thus, when the men are light and disengaged from
every thing but their guns, they may go the whole journey on foot with
pleasure. And though my dear countrymen have so great a passion for
nding, that they will often walk two miles to catch a horse, in order to ride
one, yet, if they will please to take my word for it, when they cro into tht;
woods upon discovery, 1 would advise them by all means to march a-foot
for they will then be delivered from the great care and concern for their
horses, which takes up too large a portion of their time. Over ni^ht we are
now at the trouble of hobbling them out, and often of leading them a mile or
two to a convenient place for forage, and then in the morninij we arc some
hours in finding them again, because they arc apt to stray a great way from
the place where they were turned out. Now and then, too, they are lost for
a whole day together, and are frequently so weak and jaded, that the com-
pany must lie still several days, near some meadow, or highland pond, to

72 THE HISTORY OF

recruit them. All these delays retard their progress intolerably; whereas, if
they had only a few asses, they would abide close to the camp, and find suf-
ficient food every where, and in all seasons of the year. Men would then
be able to travel safely over hills and dales, nor would the steepest mountains
obstruct their progress. They might also search more narrowly for mines and
other productions of nature, without being confined to level grounds, in com-
pliment to the jades they ride on. And one may foretell, without the spirit
of divination, that so long as woodsmen continue to range on horse-back,
we shall be strangers to our own country, and few or no valuable discoveries
will ever be made. The French couriers de bois, who have run from one
end of the continent to the other, have performed it all on foot, or else in all
probability must have continued full as ignorant as we are. Our country
has now been inhabited more than one hundred and thirty years by the
English, and still we hai-dly know any thing of the Appallachian mountains,
that are no where above two hundred and fifty miles from the sea. Where-
as the French, who are later comers, have ranged from Gluebec southward
as far as the mouth of Mississippi, in the bay of Mexico, and to the west al-
most as far as California, which is either way above two thousand miles.

3d. A north-west wind having cleared the sky, we were now tempted to
travel on a Sunday, for the first time, for want of more plentiful forage,
though some of the more scrupulous amongst us were unwilling to do evil,
that good might come of it, and make our cattle work a good part of the'
day in order to fill their bellies at night. However, the chaplain put on his
casuistical face, and offered to take the sin upon himself We therefore con-
sented to move a Sabbath day's journey of three or four miles, it appearing
to be a matter of some necessity. On the way our unmerciful Indian killed
no less than two brace of deer and a large bear. W^e only primed the deer,
being unwilling to be encumbered with their whole carcasses. The rest we
consigned to the wolves, which in return serenaded us great part of the
night. They are very clamorous in their banquets, which we know is the
way some other brutes have, in the extravagance of their jollity and spright-
liness, of expressing their thanks to Providence.

We came to our old camp, in sight of the river Irvin, whose stream was
swelled now near four feet with the rain that fell the day before. This made
it impracticable for us to ford it, nor could we guess when the water would fall
enough to let us go over. This put our mathematical professor, who should
have set a better example, into the vapours, fearing he should be obliged to
take up his winter quarters in that doleful wilderness. But the rest were not
infected with his want of faith, but preserved a firmness of mind superior to
such little adverse accidents. They trusted that the same good Providence
which had most remarkably prospered them hitherto, would continue his
goodness and conduct them safe to the end of their journey. However, we
found plainly that travelling on the Sunday, contrary to our constant rule,
had not thriven with us in the least. We were not gainers of any distance
by it, because the river made us pay two days for violating one. Neverthe-
less, by making this reflection, I would not be thought so rigid an observer
of the sabbath as to allow of no work at all to be done, or journeys to be
taken upon it. I should not care to lie still and be knocked on the head, as the
Jews were heretofore by Antiochus, because I believed it unlawful to stand upon
my defence on this good day. Nor would I care, like a certain New England
magistrate, to order a man to the whipping post, for daring to ride for a mid-
wife on the Lord's day. On the contrary, I am for doing all acts of necessi-
ty, charity, and self preservation, upon a Sunday as well as other days of the
week. But, as I think our present march could not strictly be justified by
any of these rules, it was but just we should suffer a little for it. I never

THE DIVIDING LINE

73

could learn that the Indians set apart any day of the week or the year for
the service of God. They pray, as philosophers eat, only when they have a
stomach, without having any_set time for it. Indeed these idle people have
very little occasion for a sabMth to refresh themselves after hard labour, be-
cause very few of them ever labour at all. Like the wild Irish, they would
rather want than work, and are all men of pleasure, to whom every day is
a day of rest. Indeed, in their hunting, they will take a little pains ; but this
being only a diversion, their spirits are rather raised than depressed by it,
and therefore need at most but a night's sleep to recruit them.

4th. By some stakes we had driven into the river yesterday, we perceived
the water began to fall, but fell so slowly that we found we must have pa-
tience a day or two longer. And because we were unwilling to lie altoge-
ther idle, we sent back some of the men to bring up the two horses that tired
the Saturday before. They were found near the place where we had left
them, but seemed too sensible of their liberty to come to us. They were
found standing indeed, but as motionless as the equestrian statue at Charing-
Cross, We had great reason to apprehend more rain by the clouds that
drove over our heads. The boldest amongst us were not without some
pangs of uneasiness at so very sullen a prospect. However, God be praised !
it all blew over in a few hours. If much rain had fallen, we resolved to
rnake a raft and bind it together with grape vines, to ferry ourselves and
b'aggage over the river. Though, in that case, we expected the swiftness of
the stream would have carried down our raft a long way before we could
have tugged it to the opposite shore.

One of the young fellows we had sent to bring up the tired horses enter-
tained us in the evening with a remarkable adventure he had met with that
day. He had straggled, it seems, from his company in a mist, and made a
cub of a year old betake itself to a tree. While he was new-priming his
piece, with intent to fetch it down, the old gentlewoman appeared, and per-
ceiving her heir apparent in distress, advanced open-mouthed to his relief.
The man was so intent upon his game, that she had approached very near
him before he perceived her. But finding his danger, he faced about upon
the enemy, which immediately reared upon her posteriors, and put herself in
battle array. The man, admiring at the bear's assurance, endeavoured to fire
upon her, but by the dampness of the priming, his gun did not go off. He
cocked it a second time, and had the same misfortune. After missing fire
twice, he had the folly to punch the beast with the muzzle of his piece'l but
mother Bruin, being upon her guard, seized the weapon with her paws, and
by main strength wrenched it out of the fellow's hands. The man being
thus fairly disarmed, thought himself no longer a match for the enemy, and
therefore retreated as fast as his legs could carry him. The brute naturally
grew bolder upon the flight of her adversary, and pursued him with all her
heavy speed. For some time it was doubtful whether fear made one run
faster, or fury the other. But after an even course of about fifty yards, the
man had the mishap to stumble over a stump, and fell down at his full length.
He now wouldhave sold his life a penny-worth ; but the bear, apprehending-
there might be some trick in the fall, instantly hailed, and looked with much
attention on her prostrate foe. In the mean while, the man had with great
presence of mind resolved to make the bear believe he was dead, by lying
breathless on the ground, in hopes that the beast would be too generous to
kill him over again. To carry on the farce, he acted the corpse for some
time without daring to raise his head, to see how near the monster was to
him. But in about two minutes, to his unspeakable comfort, he was raised
from the dead by the barking of a dog, belonging to one of his companions,
who came seasonably to his rescue, and drove the bear from pursuing the

74

THK HISTORY OF

man to take care of her cub, which she feared might now fall into a second
distress.

5th. We juilged the waters were assuaged this morning to make the river
fordable. Therefore about ten we tried the ej^eriment, and every body got
over safe, except one man, whose horse slipped fr||m a rock as he forded over,
and threw him into the river. But being able to swim, he was not carried
down the stream very far before he recovered the north shore. At the dis-
tance of about six miles we passed Cascade creek, and three miles farther we
came upon the banks of the Dan, which w-e crossed with much difficulty, by
reason the water was risen much higher than when we forded it before.
Here the same unlucky person happened to be ducked a second time, and
was a second time saved by swimming. My own horse too plunged in such
a manner that his head was more than once under water, but with much
ado recovered his feet, though he made so low an obeisance, that the water
ran fairly over my saddle.

We continued our march as far as Lowland creek, where we took up our
lodging, for the benefit of the canes and winter grass that grew upon the rich
grounds thereabouts. On our way thither we had the misfortune to drop
another horse, though he carried nothing the whole day but his saddle. We
showed the same favour to most of our horses,. for fear, if we did not do it,
we should in a little time be turned into beasts of burthen ourselves. Custom
had now made travelling on foot so familiar, that we were able to walk ten
miles with pleasure. This we could do in our boots, notwithstanding our
way lay over rough woods and uneven grounds. Our learning to walk in
heavy boots was the same advantage to us that learning to dance high
dances in wooden shoes is to the French, it made us most exceedingly nimble
without them. The Indians, who have no way of travelling but on the hoof,
make nothing of going twenty-five miles a day, and carrying their little ne-
cessaries at their backs, and sometimes a stout pack of skins into the bargain.
And very often they laugh at the English, who cannot stir to a next neigh-
bour without a horse, and say that two legs are too much for such lazy
people, who cannot visit their next neighbour without six. For their parts,
they were utter strangers to all our beasts of burthen or carriage, before the
slothful Europeans came amongst them. They had on no part of the
American continent,* or in any of the islands, either horses or asses, camels,
dromedaries or elephants, to ease the legs of the original inhabitants, or to
lighten their labour. Indeed, in South America, and particularly in Chili, they
have a useful animal called " paco." This creature resembles a sheep pretty
much ; only in the length of the neck, and figure of the head, it is more like a
camel. It is very near as high as the ass, and the Indians there make use
of it for carrying moderate burthens. The fleece that grows upon it is very
valuable for the fineness, length and glossiness of the wool. It has one re-
markable singularity, that the hoofs of its fore-feet have three clefts, and those
behind no more than one. The flesh of this animal is something drier than
our mutton, but altogether as well tasted. When it is angry, it has no way
of resenting its wrongs, but by spitting in the face of those that provol.e it:
and if the spawl happen to light on the bare skin of any person, it first creates
an itching, and afterwards a scab, if no remedy be applied. The way to
manage these pacos, and make them tractable, is, to bore a hole in their ears,
through which they put a rope, and then guide tliem just as they please.
In Chili, they wear a beautiful kind of stuff, with thread made of this crea-
ture's wool, which has a gloss superior to any camlet, and is sold very dear
in that country.

6th. The difficulty of finding the horses among the tall canes made it late
before we decamped. We traversed very hilly grounds, but to make ameiKis

THE DIVIDING LINK. 75

it was pretty clear of underwood. We avoided crossing the Dan twice by
taking a compass round the bend of it. There was no passing by the angle
of the river without halting a moment to entertain our eyes again with that
charming prospect. When that pleasure was over we proceeded to Sable
creek, and encamped a little to the east of it. The river thereabouts had a
charming effect, its banks being adorned with green canes, sixteen feet high,
which make a spring all the year, as well as plenty of forage all the winter.
One of the men wounded an old buck, that was gray with years, and seemed,
by the reverend marks he bore upon him, to confirm the current opinion of
that animal's longevity. The smart of his wounds made hina not only turn
upon the dogs, but likewise pursue them to some distance with great fury.
However he got away at last, though by the blood that issued from his wound
he could not run far before he fell, and without doubt made a comfortable
repast for the wolves. However the Indian had better fortune, and supplied
us with a fat doe, and a young bear two years old. At that age they are in
their prime, and, if they be fat withal, they are a morsel for a cardinal.

All the land we travelled over this day, and the day before, that is to say
from the river Irvin to Sable creek, is exceedingly rich, both on the Virginia
side of the line, and that of Carolina. Besides whole forests of canes, that
adorn the banks of the river and creeks threabouts, the fertility of the soil
throws out such a quantity of winter grass, that horses and cattle might
keep themselves in heart all the cold season without the help of any fodder.
Nor have the low grounds only this advantage, but likewise the higher land,
and particularly that which we call the Highland Pond, which is two miles
broad, and of a length unknown.

I question not but there are thirty thousand acres at least, lying altogether,
as fertile as the lands were said to be about Babylon, which yielded, if
Herodotus tells us right, an increase of no less than two or three hundred for
one. But this hath the advantage of being a higher, and consequently a
much healthier, situation than that. So that a colony of one thousand families
might, with the help of moderate industry, pass their time very happily there.
Besides grazing and tillage, which would abundantly compensate their labour,
they might plant vineyards upon the hills, in which situation the richest wines
are always produced. They might also propagate white mulberry trees,
which thrive exceedingly in this climate, in order to the feeding of silk-worms,
and making of raw silk. They might too produce hemp, flax and cotton,
in what quantity they pleased, not only for their own use, but likewise for sale.
Then they might raise very plentiful orchards, of both peaches and apples,
which contribute as much as any fruit to the luxury of life. There is no soil
or climate will yield better rice than this, which is a grain of prodigious in-
crease, and of very wiiolcsome nourishment. In short every thing will grow
plentifully here to supply either the wants or wantonness of man. Nor can
I so much as wish that the more tender vegetables might grow iicre, such as
orange, lemon, and olive trees, because! then we should lose the much greater
benefit of the brisk north-west winds, which purge the air, and sweep away
all the malignant fevers, which hover over countries that arc always warm.
The soil would also want the advantages of frost, and snow, which by their
nitrous partirles contribute not a little to its fertility. Besides the inhabitants
would be deprived of the variety and sweet vicissitude of the season, which
is much more delightful than one dull and constant succession of warm
weather, diversified only by rain and sunshine. There is also another con-
venience, that happens to tliis country by cold weather — it destroys a great
number of snakes, and otiier venomous reptiles, and troublesome insects, or
at least lays them to sleep for several months, which otherwise would annoy
us the whole year round, and multiply beyond nil enduring. Though oranges

7Q THE HISTORY OF

and lemons are desirable fruits, and useful enough in many cases, yet, when
the want of them is supplied by others more useful, we have no cause to com-
plain. There is no climate that produces every thing, since the deluge
wrenched the poles of the world out of their place, nor is it fit it should be so,
because it is the mutual supply one country receives from another, which
creates a mutual traffic and intercourse amongst men. And in truth, were
it not for the correspondence, in order to make up each other's wants, the
wars betwixt bordering nations, like those of the Indians and other barba-
rous people, would be perpetual and irreconcileable. As to olive trees, I
know by experience they will never stand the sharpness of our winters,
but their place may be supplied by the plant called sessamun, which yields an
infinite quantity of large seed, from whence a sweet oil is pressed, that is very
wholesome and in use amongst the people of Lesser Asia. Likewise it is used
in Egypt, preferably to oil olive, being not so apt to make those that eat it
constantly break out into scabs, as they do in many parts of Italy. This would
grow very kindly here, and has already been planted with good success in
North Carolina, by way of experiment.

7th. After crossing the Dan, we made a march of eight miles, over hills
and dales as far as the next ford of that river. And now we were by prac-
tice become such very able footmen, that we easily outwalked our horses,
and could have marched much farther, had it not been in pity to their weak-
ness. Besides here was plenty of canes, which was reason enough to make
us shorten our journey. Our gunners did great execution as they went
along, killing no less than two brace of deer, and as many wild turkeys.
Though practice will soon make a man of tolerable vigour an able footman,
yet, as a help to bear fatigue I used to chew a root of ginseng as I walked
along. This kept up my spirits, and made me trip away as nimbly in my half
jack-boots as younger men could do in their shoes. This plant is in high es-
teem in China, where it sells for its weight in silver. Indeed it does not grow
there, but in the mountains of Tartary, to which place the emperor of China
sends ten thousand men every year on purpose to gather it. But it grows so
scattering there, that even so many hands can bring home no great quantity.
Indeed it is a vegetable of so many virtues, that Providence has planted it very
thin in every country that has the happiness to produce it. Nor indeed is man-
kind worthy of so great a blessing, since health and long life are commonly
abused to ill purposes. This noble plant grows likewise at the cape of Good
Hope, where it is called kanna, and is in wonderful esteem among the Hotten-
tots. It grows also on the northern continent of America, near the mountains,
but as sparingly as truth and public spirit. It answers exactly both to the figure
and virtues of that which grows in Tartary, so that there can be no doubt of its
being the same. Its virtues are, that it gives an uncommon warmth and
vigour to the blood, and frisks the spirits, beyond any other cordial. It cheers
the heart even of a man that has a bad wife, and makes him look down with
great composure on the crosses of the world. It promotes insensible per-
spiration, dissolves all phlegmatic and viscous humours, that are apt to obstruct
the narrow channels of the nerves. It helps the memory, and would quick-
en even Helvetian dulness. It is friendly to the lungs, much more than scold-
ing itself It comforts the stomach, and strengthens the bowels, preventing
all colics and fluxes. In one word, it will make a man live a great while,
and very well while he does live. And what is more, it will even make old
age amiable, by rendering it lively, cheerful, and good-humoured. However
it is of little use in the feats of love, as a great prince once found, who hear-
ing of its invigorating quality, sent as far as China for some of it, though his
ladies could not boast of any advantage thereby.

We gave the Indian the skins of all the deer that he shot himself, and the

THE DIVIDING LINE.

77

men the skins of what they killed. And every evening after the tires were
made, they stretched them very tight upon sticks, and dried them. This, by
a nocturnal fire, appeared at first a very odd spectacle, every thing being
dark and gloomy rouad about. After they are dried in this manner they
may be folded up without damage, till they come to be dressed according to
art. The Indians dress them with deer's brains, and so do the English here by
their example. For expedition's sake they often stretch their skins over
smoke in order to dry them, which makes them smell so disagreeably that a
rat must have a good stomach to gnaw them in that condition ; nay, it is said,
while that perfume continues in a pair of leather breeches, the person that
wears them will be in no danger of that villanous little insect the French call
morpion. And now I am upon the subject of insects, it may not be improper
to mention some few remedies against those that are most vexatious in this
climate. There are two sorts without doors, that are great nuisances, the
ticks, and the horse flies. The ticks are either deer-ticks, or those that annoy
the cattle. The first kind are long, and take a very strong gripe, being most
in remote woods, above the inhabitants. The other are round, and more
gently insinuate themselves into the flesh, being in all places where cattle are
frequent. Both these sorts are apt to be troublesome during the warm season,
but have such an aversion to pennyroyal, that they will attack no part that
is rubbed with the juice of that fragrant vegetable. And a strong decoction
of this is likewise the most effectual remedy against seed-ticks, which bury
themselves in your legs, when they are so small you can hardly discern them
without a microscope.

The horse flies are not only a great grievance to horses, but h"kewise to
those that ride them. These little vixens confine themselves chiefly to the
woods, and are most in moist places. Though this insect be no bigger than
an ordinary fly, it bites very smartly, darting its little proboscis into the skin
the instant it lights upon it. These are offensive only in the hot months, and
in the day time, when they are a great nuisance to travellers ; insomuch that
it is no wonder they were formerly employed for one of the plagues of Egypt.
But dittany, which is to be had in the woods all the while" those insects
remain in vigor, is a sure defence against them. For this purpose, if you
stick a bunch of it on the head-stall of your bridle, they will be sure to keep
a respectful distance. Thus, in what part of the woods soever any thing
mischievous or troublesome is found, kind Providence is sure to provide a
remedy. And it is probably one great reason why God was pleased to create
these, and many other vexatious animals, that men should exercise their
wits and industry, to guard themselves against them. Bears' oil is used by
the Indians as a general defence against every species of vermin. Among
the rest, they say it keeps both bugs and mosquitoes from assaulting their
persons, which would otherwise devour such uncleanly people. Yet bears'
grease has no strong smell, as that plant had which the Egyptians formerly
used against mosquitoes, resembling our palma Christi, the juice of which
smelled so disagreeably, that the remedy was worse than tlie disease.
Against mosquitoes, in Blgypt, the richer sort used to build lofty towers, with
bed-chambers in the tops of them, that they might rest undisturbed. It is
certain that these insects are no high flirrs, because their wings are weak
and their bodies so light, that if they mount never so little, the wind blows
them quite away from their course, and they become an easy prey to the
martins, East India bats, and other birds that fly about in continual quest of
them.

8th. As we had twice more to (Toks thf Pan over two fords, that lay no
more than seven miles from each other, wp judged the distance would not be
much greater to go round the bend of it. Arrordingly wf sent the Indian

73 TH£ HISTORY OF

and two white men that way, who came up with us in the evening, after
fetching a compass of about twelve miles. They told us that, about a mile
from our last camp, they passed a creek fortified with steep cliffs, which there-
fore gained the name of Cliff creek. Near three miles beyond that they
forded a second creek, on the margin of which grew abundance of tall cane.s
and this was called Hix's creek, from one of the discoverers. Between these
two creeks lies a level of exceeding rich land, full of large trees, and covered
with black mould, as fruitful, if we believe them, as that which is yearly over-
flowed by the Nile. We who marched the nearest way upon the line found the
ground rising and falling between the two fords of the Dan, which almost
broke our own wind, and the hearts of our jaded palfreys. When we had
passed the last ford, it was a sensible joy to find ourselves safe over all the
waters that might cut off our retreat. And we had the greater reasen to be
thankful, because so late in the year it was very unusual to find the rivers
so fordable. We caught a large terrapin in the river, which is one kind of turtle.
The flesh of it is wholesome, and good for consumptive people. It lays a
great number of eggs, not larger but rounder than those of pigeons. These
are soft, but withal so tough that it is difficult to break them, yet are veiy
sweet and invigorating, so that some wives recommend them earnestly'to
their husbands. One of the men, by an overstrain, had unhappily got a
running of the reins, for which I gave him every morning a little sweet gum
dissolved in water, with good success. This gum distils from a large tree,
called the sweet-gum tree, very common in Virginia, and is as healing in its
virtue as balm of Gilead, or the balsams of Tolu and of Peru. It is likewise
a most agreeable perfume, very Uttle inferior to ambergris. And now I
have mentioned ambergris, I hope it wUl not be thought an unprofitable di-
gression, to give a faithful account how it is produced, in order to reconcile
the various opinions concerning it. It is now certainly found to be the dung
of the spermaceti whale, which is at first very black and unsavoury. But after
having been washed for some months in the sea, and blanched in the sun,
it comes at length to be of a gray colour, and from a most offensive smell,
contracts the finest fragrancy in the world. Besides the fragrancy of this
animal substance, it is a very rich and innocent cordial, which raises the
spirits without stupifying them afterwards, like opium, or intoxicating them
like wine. The animal spirits are amazingly refreshed by this cordial, with-
out the danger of any ill consequence, and if husbands were now and then
to dissolve a little of it in their broth, their consorts might be the better for
it, as well as themselves. In the Bahama islands (where a great quantity is
found, by reason the spermaceti whales resort thither continually,) it is
used as an antidote against the venomous fish which abound therea-
bouts, wherewitli the people are apt to poison themselves. We are not only
obliged to that whale for this rich perfume, but also for the spermaceti itself,
which is the fat of that fish's head boiled and purged from all its impurities.
What remains is of a balsamic and detersive quality, very friendly to the
lungs, and useful in many other cases.

The Indian had killed a fat doe in the compass he took round the elbow of
the river, but was content to prime it only, by reason it was too far off to lug
the whole carcass upon his back. This, and a brace of wild turkeys which
our men had shot, made up all our bill of fare this evening, but could only
afford a philosophical meal to so many craving stomachs. The horses were
now so lean that any thing would gall those that carried the least burthen ;
no wonder then if several of them had sore backs, especially now the pads of
the saddles and packs were pressed flat with long and constant use. This
would have been another misfortune, had we not laeen proxided with an easy
remedy for it. One of the commissioners, believing that such accidents might

THE DIVIDING LINE. 79

happen in a far journey, had furnished himself with plasters. of strong glue
spread pretty thick. We laid on these, after making them running hot,
which, sticking fast, never fell off till the sore was perfectly healed. In the
mean time it defended the part so well, that the saddle might bear upon it
without danger of further injury.

9th. We reckoned ourselves now pretty well out of the latitude of bears, to
the great grief of most of the company. There was still mast enough left in the
woods to keep the bears from drawing so near to the inhabitants. They like not.
the neighbourhood of merciless man, till famine compels them to it. They are
all black in this part of the world, and so is their dung, but it will make linen
white, being tolerably good soap, without any preparation but only drying.
These bears are of a moderate size, whereas within the polar circles they are
white, and much larger. Those of the southern parts of Muscovy are of a
russet colour, but among the Samoeids, as well as in Greenland and Nova-
Zembla, they are as white as the snow they converse with, and by some
accounts are as large as a moderate ox. The excessive cold of that climate
sets their appetites so sharp, that they will attack a man without ceremony,
and even climb up a ship's side to come at him. They range about and are
very mischievous all the time the sun is above the horizon, which is something
more than five months ; but after the sun is set for the rest of the year, they
retire into holes, or bury themselves under the snow, and sleep away the
dark season without any sustenance at all. It js pity our beggars and pick-
pockets could not do the same.

Our journey this day was above twelve miles, and more than half the way
terribly hampered with bushes. We tired another horse, which we were
obliged to leave two miles short of where we encamped, and indeed several
others were upon the careen almost every step. Now we wanted one of
those celebrated musicians of antiquity, who, they tell us, among many other
wonders of their art, could play an air which, by its animating briskness,
would make a jaded horse caper and curvet much better than any whip, spur,
or even than swearing. Though I fear our poor beasts were so harassed that
it would have been beyond the skill of Orpheus himself so nmch as to make
them prick up their ears. For proof of the marvellous power of music
among the ancients, some historians say, that one of those skilful masters
took upon him to make the great Alexander start up from his seat, and handle
his javelin, whether he would or not, by the force of a sprightly tune, which
he knew how to play to hijn. The king ordered the man to bring his instru-
ment, and then fixing himself firmly in his chair, and determining not to stir,
he bade him strike upas soon as he pleased. The musician obeyed, and pre-
sently roused the hero's spirits with such warlike notes, that he was constrain-
ed, in spite of all his resolution, to spring up and fly to his javelin with great
martial fury. We can the easier credit these profane stories by what we
find recorded in the oracles of truth, where we are told the wonders David
performed by sweetly touching his harp. He made nothing of driving the
evil spirit out of Saul, though a certain rabbi assures us he could not do so
much by his wife, Michal, when she happened to be in her airs. The great-
est instance we have of the power of modern music is that which cures
those who in Italy are bitten by the little spider called the tarantula. The
whole method of which is pcrlbrmed in the following manner. In Apulia
it is a common misfortune for ix?ople to be bitten i)y the tarantula, and most
about Taranto and Gallipoli. This is a gray spider, not very large, with a
narrow streak of white along the back. It is no wonder there are many of
these villanous insects, because, by n ridiculous superstition it is accountoii
great inhumanity to kill them. They believe, it seems, that if the spider come
to a violent death, all those who had been bitlen by it will certainly have a

gQ THE HISTORY OF

return ot their frenzy ever)' year as long as they live. But if it die a natural
death, the patient will have a chance to recover in two or three years. The
bite of the tarantula gives no more pain than the bite of a mosquito, and
makes little or no inflammation on the part, especially when the disaster hap-
pens in April or May ; but, its venom increasing with the heat of the season,
has more fatal consequences in July and August. The persons who are so
unhappy as to be bitten in those warm months, fall down on the place in a few
minutes, and lie senseless for a considerable time, and when they come to
themselves feel horrible pains, are very sick at their stomachs, and in a short
time break out into- foul sores ; but those who are bitten in the milder months
have much gentler symptoms. They are longer before the distemper shows
itself, and then they have a small disorder in their senses, are a little sick, and
perhaps have some moderate breakings-out. However, in both cases, the
patient keeps upon the bed, not caring to stir, till he is roused by a tune,
proper for his particular case. Therefore, as soon as the symptoms disco-
ver themselves, a tarantula doctor is sent for, who, after viewing carefully
the condition of the person, first tries one tune and then another, until he is
so fortunate as to hit the phrenetic turn of the patient. No sooner does this
happen but he begins to wag a finger, then a hand, and afterwards a foot, till
at last he springs up and dances round the room, with a surprising agility,
rolling his eyes and looking wild the whole time. This dancing-fit lasts com-
monly about twenty-five minutes, by which time he will be all in a lather.
Then he sits down, falls a laughing, and returns to his senses. So plentiful a
perspiration discharges so much of the venom as will keep off the return of
the distemper for a whole year. Then it will visit him again, and must be
removed in the same merry mannei*. But three dancing bouts will do the
business, unless, peradventure, the spider, according to the vulgar notion, has
been put to a violent death. The tunes played to expel this whimsical dis-
order, ai-e of the jig kind, and exceed not fifteen in number. The Apulians
are frequently dancing off the effects of this poison, and no remedy is more
commonly applied to any other distemper elsewhere, than those sprightly
tunes are to the bite of the tarantula in that part of Italy. It is remarkable
that these spiders have a greater spite to the natives of the place than they
have to strangers, and women are oftener bitten than men. Though there may
be a reason for the last, because women are more confined to the house,
where these spiders keep, and their coats make them hable to attacks un-
seen, whereas the men can more easily discover, and brush them off their
legs. Nevertheless, both sexes are cured the same way, and thereby show
the wonderful effects of music.

Considering how far we had walked, and consequently how hungry we
were, we found but short commons when we came to our quarters. One
brace of turkeys was all the game we could meet with, which almost needed
a miracle to enable them to suflSce so many voracious appetites. However,
they just made a shift to keep famine, and consequently mutiny, out of the
camp. At night we lodged upon the banks of Buffalo creek, where none of
us could complain of loss of rest, for having eaten too heavy and luxurious
a supper.

10th. In a dearth of provisions our chaplain pronounced it lawful to make
bold with the sabbath, and send a party out a-hunting. They fired the dry
leaves in a ring of five miles' circumference, which, burning inwards, drove
all the game to the centre, where they were easily killed. It is really a pitiful
sight to see the extreme distress the poor deer are in, when they find them-
selves surrounded with this circle of fire ; they weep and groan like a human
creature, yet cannot move the compassion of those hard-hearted people,
who are about to murder them. This unmerciful sport is called fire hunting.

THE DIVIDING LINE. 31

and is much practised by the Indians and frontier inhabitants, who some-
times, in the eagerness of their diversion, are punished for their cruelty, and
are hurt by one another when they shoot across at the deer which are in the
middle. What the Indians do now by a circle of fire, the ancient Persians
performed formerly by a circle of men : and the same is practised at this
day in Germany upon extraordinary occasions, when any of the princes of
the empire have a mind to make a general hunt, as they call it. At such
times they order a vast number of people to surround a whole territory,
Then marching inwards in close order, they at last force all the wild beasts
into a narrow compass, that the prince and his company may have the di-
version of slaughtering as many as they please with their own hands. Our
hunters massacred two brace of deer after this unfair way, of which they
brought us one brace wiiole, and only the primings of the rest.

So many were absent on this occasion, that we who remained excused
the chaplain from the trouble of spending his spirits by preaching to so thin
a congregation. One of the men, who had been an old Indian trader, brought
me a stem of silk grass, which was about as big as my little finger. But,
being so late in the year that the leaf was fallen off, I am not able to describe
the plant. The Indians use it in all their little manufactures, twisting a
thread of it that is prodigiously strong. Of this they make their baskets
and the aprons which their women wear about their middles, for decency's
sake. These are long enough to wrap quite round them and reach down to
their knees, with a fi'inge on the under part by way of ornament. They put
on this modest covering with so much art, that the most impertinent curiosity
cannot in the negligentest of their motions or postures make the least dis-
covery. As this species of silk grass is much stronger than hemp, I make
no doubt but sail cloth and cordage might be made of it with considerable
improvement.

11th. We had all been so refreshed by our day of rest, that we decamped
earlier than ordinary, and passed the several fords of Hico river. The
woods were thick great part of this day's journey, so that we were forced to
scuffle hard to advance seven miles, being equal in fatigue to double that
distance of clear and open grounds. We took up our quarters upon Sugar-
tree creek, in the same camp we had lain in when we came up, and happened
to be entertained at supper with a rarity we had never had the fortune to
meet with before, during the whole expedition. A little wide of this creek,
one of the men had the luck to meet with a young buffalo of two years old.
It was a bull, which, notwithstanding he was no older, was as big as an ordi-
nary ox. His legs were very thick and very short, and his hoofs exceeding
broad. His back rose into a kind of bunch a little above the shoulders,
which I believe contributes not a little to that creature's enormous strength.
His body is vastly deep from the shoulders to the brisket, sometimes six feet
in those that are full grown. The portly figure of this animal is disgraced
by a shabby little tail, not above twelve inches long. This he cocks up on
end whenever he is in a passion, and, instead of lowing or bellowing, grunts
with no better grace than a hog. The hair growing on his head and neck is
long and shagged, and so soft that it will spin into thread not unlike mohair,
which might be wove into a sort of camlet. Some people have stockings
knit of it, that would have served an Israelite during his forty years' march
through the wilderness. Its horns are short and strong, of which the Indians
make large spoons, which they say will split and fall to pieces whenever poi-
son is put into them. Its colour is a dirty brown, and its hide so thick that
it is scarce penetrable. However, it makes very spongy sole leather by the
ordinary method of tanning, though this fault might by good contrivance be
mended. As thick as this poor beast's hide wa.s, a bullet made shift to enter

g2 THE HISTORY OF

it and fetch him down. It was found all alone, though buffaloes seldom are.
They usually range about in herds, like other cattle, and, though they differ
something in figure, are certainly of the same species. There are two rea-
sons for this opinion : the flesh of both has exactly the same taste, and the
mixed breed betwixt both, they say, will generate. All the difference I could
perceive between the flesh of buffalo and common beef was, that the flesh of
the first was much yellower than that of the other, and the lean something
tougher. The men were so delighted with this new diet, that the gridiron
and frying-pan had no more rest all night, than a poor husband subject to
curtain lectures. Buffaloes may be easily tamed when they are taken young.
The best way to catch them is to carry a milch mare into the woods, and
when you find a cow and calf, to kill the cow, and then having caught the
calf, to suckle it upon the mare. After once or twice sucking her, it will fol-
low her home, and become as gentle as another calf If we could get into a
breed of them, they might be made very useful, not only for the dairy, by
giving an ocean of milk, but also for drawing vast and cumbersome weights
by their prodigious strength. These, with the other advantages I mentioned
before, would make this sort of cattle more profitable to the owner, than any
other we are acquainted with, though they would need a world of provender.

12th. Before we marched this morning, every man took care to pack up
some buffalo steaks in his wallet, besides what he crammed into his belly.
When provisions were plenty, we always found it difficult to get out early,
being too much embarrassed with a long-winded breakfast. However, by
the strength of our beef, we made a shift to walk about twelve miles, cross-
ing Blue-wing and Tewaw-homini creeks. And because this last stream re-
ceived its appellation from the disaster of a Tuscarora Indian, it will not be
straggling much out of the way to say something of that particular nation.

These Indians were heretofore very numerous and powerful, making,
within time of memory, at least a thousand fighting men. Their habitation,
before the war with Carolina, was on the north branch of Neuse river, com-
monly called Connecta creek, in a pleasant and fruitful country. But now the
few that are left of that nation live on the north side of Moratuck, which is all
that part of Roanoke below the great falls, towards Albemarle sound. Formerly
there were seven towns of these savages, lying not far from each other, but
now their number is greatly reduced. The trade they have had the misfor-
tune to drive with the English has furnished them constantly with rum,
which they have used so immoderately, that, what with the distempers, and
what with the quarrels it begat amongst them, it has proved a double de-
struction. But the greatest consumption of these savages happened by the
w^ar about twenty-five years ago, on account of some injustice the inhabitants
of that province had done them about their lands. It was on that provocation
they resented their wrongs a little too severely upon Mr. Lawson, who, under
colour of being surveyor general, had encroached too much upon their territo-
ries, at which they were so enraged, that they waylaid him, and cut his throat
from ear to ear, but at the same time released the baron de Graffenried, whom
they had seized for company, because it appeared plainly he had done them
no wrong. This blow was followed by some other bloody actions on the part
of the Indians, which brought on the war, wherein many of them were cut
off, and many were obliged to flee for refuge to the Seneeas, so that now
there remain so few, that they are in danger of being quite exterminated by
the Catawbas, their mortal enemies. These Indians have a very odd tradition
amongst them, that many years ago, their nation was grown so dishonest,
that no man could keep any of his goods, or so much as his loving wife to
himself That, however, their God, being unwilling to root them out for their
crimes, did them the honour to send a messenger from heaven to instruct

THE DIVIDING LINE

83

them, and set them a perfect example of integrity and kind behavior towards
one another. But tins holy person, with all his eloquence and sanctity of life,
was able to make very little reformation amongst them. Some few old
men did listen a little to his wholesome advice, but" all the young fellows were
quite incorrigible. They not only neglected his precepts, but derided and
evil entreated his person. At last, taking upon him to reprove some young
rakes of the Conechta clan very sharply for their impiety, they were so pro-
voked at the freedom of his I'ebukes, that they tied him to a tree, and shot
him with arrows through the heart. But their God took instant vengeance
on all who had a hand in that monstrous act, by lightning from heaven, and
has ever since visited their nation with a continued train of calamities, nor
will he ever leave off punishing, and wasting their people, till he shall have
blotted every living soul of them out of the world.

Our hunters shot nothing this whole day but a straggling bear, which hap-
pened to fall by the hand of the very person who had been lately disarmed and
put to flight, for which he declared war against the whole species.

13th. We pursued our journey with all diligence, and forded Ohimpamony
creek about noon, and from thence proceeded to Yapatsco, which we could
not cross without difliculty. The beavers had dammed up the water much
higher than we found it at our going up, so that we were obliged to lay a
bridge over a part that was shallower than the rest, to facilitate our passage.
Beavers have more of instinct, that half-brother of reason, than any other
animal, especially in matters of self-preservation. In their houses they al-
ways contrive a sally-port, both towards the land and towards the water, that
so they may escape by one, if their retreat should happen to be cut off" at the
other. They perform all their works in the dead of night, to avoid discovery,
and are kept dihgently to it by the master beaver, which by his age or
strength has gained to himself an authority over the rest. If any of the'gang
happen to be lazy, or will not exert himself to the utmost in felling of trees,
or dragging them to the place where they are made use of, this superintend-
ent will not fail to chastise him with the flat of the tail, wherewith he is able
to give unmerciful strokes. They lie snug in their houses all day, unless some
unneighbourly miller chance to disturb their repose, by demolishing their
dams for supplying his mill with water. It is rare to see one of them, and
the Indians for that reason have hardly any way to take them, but by laying
snares near the place where they dam up the water. But the English lumtcrs
have found out a more eflfectual method, by using the following receipt. Take
the large pride of the beaver, squeeze all the juice out of it, then take the
smaU pride, and squeeze out about five or six drops. Take the inside of sas-
safras bark, powder it, and mix it with the !i(]uor, and place this bait conve-
niently for your steel trapu The story of their biting oflf their testicles to
compound for their lives, when they are pursued, is a story taken upon trust
by Pliny, like many others. Nor is it the beavers' testicles that carry the per-
fume, but they have a pair of glands just within the fundament, as sweet as
musk, that perfume their dung, and communicate a strong scent to their testi-
cles, by being placed near them. It is true several creatures have strange in-
stincts for their preservation, as the Egyptian frog, we are told by Elian, will
carry a whole joint of a reed across its mouth, that it may not be swallowed
by the ibis. And this long-necked fowl will give itself a clyster with its beak,
whenever it finds itself too costive or feverish. The docs of that country lap the
water of the Nile in a full trot, that they may not be snapped by the crocodiles.
Both beavers and wolves, we know, when one ol" their legs is cauirht in a
steel trap, will bite it ofl; (hat they may escape with the rest. The'llesh r.|
the beavers is tough and dry, all but the tail, which, like the parrot's (niiguo,
was one ol tlie lur-fctchcd rarities with wliicli llcliogabalus used to funiisli

34 THE HISTORY OF

his luxurious table. The fur of these creatures Is very valuable, especially in
the more northern countries, where it is longer and finer. This the Dutch
have lately contrived to mix with their wool, and weave into a sort of drug-
get, tliat is not only warm, but wonderfuiry light and soft. They also make
gloves and stockings of it, that keep out the cold almost as well as the fur it-
self, and do not look quite so savage.

There is a deal of rich low ground on Yapatsco creek, but I believe liable
to be overflowed in a fresh. However, it might be proper enough for rice,
which receives but little injury from water. We encamped on the banks of
Massamony creek, after a journey of more than eleven miles. By the way
we shot a fat doe and a wild turkey, which fed us all plentifully. And we
have reason to say, by our own happy experience, that no man need to
despair of his daily bread in the woods, whose faith is but half so large as
his stomach.

14th. Being at length happily arrived within twenty miles of the upper-
most inhabitants, we despatched two men who had the ablest horses to go
before, and get a beef killed and some bread baked to refresh their fellow
travellers, upon their arrival. They had likewise orders to hire an express
to carry a letter to the governor, giving an account that we were all return-
ed in safety. This was the more necessary, because we had been so long
absent that many now began to fear we were, by this time, scalped and bar-
bacued by the Indians. We decamped with the rest of the people about ten
o'clock, and marched near twelve miles. In our way we crossed Nutbush
creek, and four miles farther we came upon a beautiful branch of Great
creek, where we took up our quarters. The tent was pitched upon an emi-
nence, which overlooked a wide piece of low grounds, covered with reeds
and watered by a crystal stream, gliding through the middle of it. On the
other side of this delightful vaJley, which was about half a mile wide, rose a
hill that terminated the view, and in the figure of a semicircle closed in upon
the opposite side of the valley. This had a most agreeable effect upon the
eye, and wanted nothing but cattle grazing in the meadow, and sheep and
goats feeding on the hill, to make it a complete rural landscape.

The Indian killed a fawn, which, being upon its growth, was not fat, but
made some amends by being tender. He also shot an otter, but our people
were now better fed than to eat such coarse food. The truth of it is, the
flesh of this creature has a rank fishy taste, and for that reason might be a
proper regale for the Samoeids, who drink the czar of Muscovy's health and
toast their mistresses in a bumper of train oil. The Carthusians, to save
their vow of eating no flesh, pronounce this amphibious animal to be a fish,
and feed upon it as such, without wounding their consciences. The skin of
the otter is very soft, and the Swedes make caps and socks of it, not only for
warmth, but also because they fancy it strengthens the nerves, and is good
against all distempers of the brain. The otter is a great devourer of fish,
which are its natural food, and whenever it betakes itself to a vegetable diet,
it is as some high-spirited wives obey their husbands, by pure necessity.
They dive after their prey, though they cannot continue long under water,
but thrust their noses up to the surface now and then for breath. They are
great enemies to weirs set up in the rivers to catch fish, devouring or biting
to pieces all they find there. Nor is it either easy to firight them from this kind of
robbery, or to destroy them. The best way I could ever find was to float
an old wheel just by the weir, and so soon as the otter has taken a large fish,
he wiU get upon the wheel to eat it more at his ease, which may give you an
opportunity of firing upon him from the shore. One of our people shot a
large gray squirrel with a very bushy tail, a singular use of which our merry
Indian discovered to us. He said whenever this little animal has occasion to

THE DIVIDING LINE. g5

cross a run of water, he launches a chip or piece of bark into the water, on
which he embarks, and, holding up his tail to the wind, sails over very safely.
If this be true, it is probable men learned at first the use of sails from these
ingenious little animals, as the Hottentots learned the physical use of most of
their plants from the baboons.

15th. About three miles from our camp we passed Great creek, and then,
after traversing very barren grounds for five miles together, we crossed the
Trading Path, and soon after had the pleasure of reaching the uppermost inr
habitant. This was a plantation belonging to colonel Mumford, where our
men almost burst themselves with potatoes and milk. Yet as great a curio-
sity as a house was to us foresters, still we chose to lie in the tent, as being
much the cleanlier and sweeter lodging.

The Trading Path above-mentioned receives its name from being the route
the traders take with their caravans, when they go to traffic with the Cataw-
bas and other southern Indians. The Catawbas live about two hundred and
fifty miles beyond Roanoke river, and yet our traders find their account in
transporting goods from Virginia to trade with them at their own town.
The common method of carrying on this Indian commerce is as follows;
Gentlemen send for goods proper for such a trade from England, and then
either venture them out at their own risk to the Indian towns, or else credit
some traders with them of substance and reputation, to be paid in skins at a
certain price agreed betwixt them. The goods for the Indian trade consist
chiefly in guns, powder, shot, hatchets, (which the Indians call tomahawks,)
kettles, red and blue planes, Duffields, Stroudwater blankets, and some cutle-
ry wares, brass rings and other trinkets. These wares are made up into
packs and carried upon horses, each load being from one hundred and fifty
to two hundred pounds, with which they are able to travel about twenty
miles a day, if forage happen to be plentiful. Formerly a hundred horses
have been employed in one of these Indian caravans, under the conduct of
fifteen or sixteen persons only, but now the trade is much impaired, inso-
much that they seldom go with half that number. The course from Roanoke
to the Catawbas is laid down nearest south-west, and lies through a fine
country, that is watered by several beautiful rivers. Those of the greatest
note are, first, Tar river, which is the upper part of Pamptico, Flat river,
Little river and Eno river, all three branches of Neuse. Between Eno and
Saxapahaw rivers are the Haw old fields, which have the reputation of con-
taining the most fertile high land in this part of the world, lying in a body of
about fifty thousand acres. This Saxapahaw is the upper part of Cape Fair
river, the falls of which lie many miles below the Trading Path. Some moun-
tains overlook this rich spot of land, from whence all the soil washes down
into the plain, and is the cause of its exceeding fertility. Not far from thence
the path crosses Aramanchy river, a branch of Saxapahaw, and about forty
miles beyond that, Deep river, which is the nortli branch of IVedee. Then
forty miles beyond that, the path intersects the Yadkin, which is there half a
mile over, and is supposed to be the south branch of the same l*cedoe. The
soil is exceedingly rich on both sides the Yadkin, abounding in rank grass
and prodigiously large trees ; and for plenty of fish, fowl and venison, is infe-
rior to no part of the northern continent. There the traders commonly lie
still for .some days, to recruit their horses' flesh as well as to recover their
own spirits. Six miles further is Crane creek, so named fiom its being the
rendezvous of great armies of cranes, which wage a more cruel war at thl.<?
day, with the frogs and the fish, than they used to do with the pigmies in the
days of Homer. About Ihrce-score miles nioir bring you to the first town
of the ( 'atawba.s railed l\auvnsa, situated on the bank.^: of Santce river.
f?esidc,s this town ijirrr arc five olhcr.s hrlonping to the same nation, lying

M

gg THE HISTORY OF

all on the same stream, within the distance of twenty miles. These Indiana
were all called formerly by the general name of the Usherees, and were a
very numerous and powerful people. But the frequent slaughters made upon
them by the northern Indians, and, what has been still more destructive by
far, the intemperance and foul distempers introduced amongst them by the
Carolina traders, have now reduced their numbers to little more than four
hundred fighting men, besides women and children. It is a charming place
where they live, the air very wholesome, the soil fertile, and the vv^inters ever
mild and serene.

In Santee river, as in several others of Carolina, a^mall kind of alligator
is frequently seen, which perfumes the water with a musky smell. They sel-
dom exceed eight feet in length in these parts, whereas, near the equinoctial,
they come up to twelve or fourteen. And the heat of the climate does not
only make them bigger, but more fierce and voracious. They watch the
cattle there when they come to drink and cool themselves in the river ; and
because they are not able to drag them into the deep water, they make up
by stratagem what they want in force. They swallow great stones, the
weight of which being added to their strength, enables them to tug a mode-
rate cow under water, and as soon as they have drowned her, they discharge
the stones out of their maw and then feast upon the carcass. However, as fierce
and as strong as these monsters are, the Indians will surprise them napping
as they float upon the surface, get astride upon their necks, then whip a short
piece of wood like a truncheon into their jaws, and holding the ends with
their two hands, hinder them from diving by keeping their mouths open, and
when they are almost spent, they will make to the shore, where their riders
knock them on the head and eat them. This amphibious animal is a smaller
kind of crocodile, having the same shape exactly, only the crocodile of the
Nile is twice as long, being when full grown from twenty to thirty feet.
This enormous length is the more to be wondered at, because the crocodile
is hatched from an egg very little larger than that of a goose. It has a long
head, which it can open very wide, with very sharp and strong teeth. Their
eyes are small, their legs short, with claws upon their feet. Their tail makes
half the length of their body, and the whole is guarded with hard impenetra-
ble scales, except the belly, which is much softer and smoother. They keep
much upon the land in the day time, but towards the evening retire into the
water to avoid the cold dews of the night. They run pretty fast right for-
ward, but are very awkward and slow in turning, by reason of their un-
wieldy length. It is an error that they have no tongue, without which they
could hardly swallow their food ; but in eating they move the upper jaw only,
contrary to all other animals. The way of catching them in Egypt is, with
a strong hook fixed to the end of a chain and baited with a joint of pork,
which they are very fond of But a live hog is generally tied near, the cry
of which allures them to the hook. This account of the crocodile will agree
in most particulars with the alligator, only the bigness of the last cannot enti-
tle it to the name of "leviathan," which Job gave formerly to the crocodile,
and not to the whale, as some interpreters would make us believe..

So soon as the Catawba Indians are informed of the appi'oach of the Vir-
ginia caravans, they send a detachment of their warriors to bid them wel-
come, and escort them safe to their town, where they are received with great
marks of distinction. And their courtesies to the Virginia traders, I dare
say, are very sincere, because they sell them better goods and better penny-
worths than the traders of Carolina. They commonly reside among the
Indians tOl they have bartered their goods away for skins, with which they
load their horses and come back by the same path they went. There are
generally some Carolina traders that constantly live among the Catawbas.

THE DIVIDING LINE. §7

and pretend to exercise a dictatorial authority over them. These petty rulers
do not only teach the honester savages all sorts of debauchery, but are unfair
in their dealings, and use them with all kinds of oppression. Nor has their
behaviour been at all better to the rest of the Indian nations, among whom
they reside, by abusing their women and evil-entreating their men ; and, by
the way, this was the tru^ reason of the fatal war which the nations round-
about made upon Carolina in the year 1713. Then it was that all the neigh-
bouring Indians, grown weary of the tyranny and injustice with which they
had been abused for many years, resolved to endure their bondage no longer,
but entered into a general confederacy against their oppressors of Carolina.
The Indians opened the war by knocking most of those little tyrants on the
head that dwelt amongst them, under pretence of regulating their commerce,
and from thence carried their resentment so far as to endanger both North
and South Carolina.

16th. We gave orders that the horses should pass Roanoke river at Moni-
sep ford, while most of the baggage was transported in a canoe. We landed
at the plantation of Cornelius Keith, where I beheld the wretchedest scene of
poverty I had ever met with in this happy part of the world. The man, his
wife and six small children, lived in a pen, hke so many cattle, without any
roof over their heads but that of heaven. And this was their airy residence in
the day time, but then there was a fodder stack not far from this inclosure,
in which the whole family sheltered themselves at night and in bad weather.
However, it was almost worth while to be as poor as this man was, to be as
perfectly contented. All his wants proceeded from indolence, and not from
misfortune. He had good land, as well as good health and good limbs to
work it, and, besides, had a trade very useful to all the inhabitants round
about. He could make and set up quern stones very well, and had proper
materials for that purpose just at hand, if he could have taken the pains to
fetch them. There Is no other kind of mills in those remote parts, and, there-
fore, if the man would have worked at his trade, he might have lived very
comfortably. The poor woman had a little more industry, and spun cotton
enough to make a thin covering for her own and her children's nakedness.
I am sorry to say it, but idleness is the general character of the men in the
southern parts of this colony as well as in North Carolina. The air is so
mild, and the soil so fruitful, that very little labour is required to fill their bel-
lies, especially where the woods afford such plenty of game. These advan-
tages discharge the men from the necessity of killing themselves with work,
and then for the other article of raiment, a very little of that will suffice in
so temperate a climate. But so much as is absolutely necessary falls to the
good women's share to provide. They all spin, weave and knit, whereby
they make a good shift to clothe the whole family ; and to their credit be it
recorded, many of them do it very completely, and thereby reproach their
husbands' laziness in the most inoffensive way, that is to say, by discovering
a better spirit of industry in themselves.

From hence we moved forward to colonel Mumford's other plantation,
under the care of Miles Riley, where, by that gentleman's directions, we
were again supplied with many good things. Here it was we discharged
our worthy friend and fellow traveller, Mr. Bearskin, who had so plentifully sup-
plied us with provisions during our long expedition. We rewarded him to
his heart's content, so that he returned to his town loaded with riches and
the reputation of having been a great discoverer.

17th. This being Sunday, we were seasonably put in mind how much we
were obliged to be thankful for our happy rottu'ii to the inliabitants. Indeed,
we had great reason to rellert with gratitude on the signal mercies we had
received. First, that we had, day by day, been fed by the bountiful hand of

88

THE HISTORY OF

Providence in the desolate wilderness, insomuch that if any ul' our people
wanted one single meal during the whole expedition, it was entirely owing
to their own imprudent management. Secondly, that not one man of
our whole company had any violent distemper or bad accident befall him,
from one end of the line to the other. The very worst that happened was,
that one of them gave himself a smart cut on tjie pan of his knee with a
tomahawk, which we had the good fortune to cure in a short time, without
the help of a surgeon. As for the misadventures of sticking in the mire and
falling into rivers and creeks, they were rather subjects of mirth than
complaint, and served only to diversify our travels with a little farcical varie-
ty. And, lastly, that many uncommon incidents have concurred to prosper
our undertaking. We had not only a dry spring before we went out, but
the preceding winter, and even a year or two before, had been much drier
than ordinary. This made not only the Dismal, but likewise most of the
sunken grounds near the sea-side, just hard enough to bear us, which other-
wise had been quite impassable. And the whole time we were upon the bu-
siness, which was in all about sixteen weeks, we were never caught in the
rain except once, nor was our progress interrupted by bad weather above
three or four days at most. Besides all this, we were surprised by no Indian
enemy, but all of us brought our scalps back safe upon our heads. This
cruel method of scalping of enemies is practised by all the savages in Ameri-
ca, and perhaps is not the least proof of their original from the northern in-
habitants of Asia. Among the ancient Scythians it Avas constantly used,
who carried about these hairy scalps as trophies of victory. They served
them too as towels at home, and trappings for their horses abroad. But
these were not content with the skin of their enemies' heads, but also made
use of their sculls for cups to drink out of upon high festival days, and made
greater ostentation of them than if they had been made of gold or the purest
crystal.

Besides the duties of the day, we christened one of our men who had been
bred a quaker. The man desired this of his own mere motion, without be-
ing tampered with by the parson, who was willing every one should go to
heaven his own way. But whether he did it by the conviction of his own
reason, or to get rid of some troublesome forms and restraints, to which the
saints of that persuasion are subject, I cannot positively say.

18th. We proceeded over a level road twelve miles, as far as George
Hixe's plantation, on the south side of Meherrin river, our course being for
the most part north-east. By the way we hired a cart to transport our bag-
gage, that we might the better befriend our jaded horses. Within two miles
of our journey's end this day, we met the express we had sent the Saturday
before to give notice of our arrival. He had been almost as expeditious as a
carrier pigeon, riding in two days no less than two hundred miles.

All the grandees of the Sapponi nation did us the honour to repair hither
to meet us, and our worthy friend and fellow traveller, Bearskin, appeared
among the gravest of them in his robes of ceremony. Four young ladies of
the first quality came with them, who had more the air of cleanliness than
any coppei'-coloured beauties I had ever seen ; yet we resisted all their
charms, notwithstanding the long fast we had kept from the sex, and the bear
diet we had been so long engaged in. Nor can I say the price they set upon
their charms was at all exorbitant. A princess for a pair of red stockings
cannot, surely, be thought buying repentance much too dear. The men had
something great and venerable in their countenances, beyond the common
mien of savages; and indeed they ever had the reputation of being the ho-
nestest, as well as the bravest Indians we have ever been acquainted with.
This people is now made up of the remnants of several other nations, of

THE DIVlDIN(i LINE. gy

w!iich tlie most considerable are the Sapponies, the Occaiieches, and Stouken-
hocks, who not finding themselves separately numerous enough for their de-
fence, Jiave agreed to unite into one body, and all of them now go under the
name of the Sapponies. Each of these was formerly a distinct nation, or
rather a several clan or canton of the same nation, speaking the same lan-
guage, and using the same customs. But their perpetual wars against all
other Indians, in time, reduced them so low as to make it necessary to join
their forces together. They dwelt formerly not far below the mountains, up-
on Yadkin river, about two hundred miles west and by south from the falls of
Roanoke. But about twenty-five years ago they took refuge in Virginia,
being no longer in condition to make head not only against the northern In-
dians, who are their implacable enemies, but also against most of those to
the south. All the nations round about, bearing in mind the havoc these
Indians used formerly to make among their ancestors in the insolence of
their power, did at length avenge it home upon them, and made them glad to
apply to this government for protection. Colonel Spotswood, our then lieu-
tenant governor, having a good opinion of their fidelity and courage, settled
them at Christanna, ten miles north of Roanoke, upon the belief Ithat they
would be a good barrier, on that side of the country, against the incursion of
all foreign Indians. And in earnest they would have served well enough for
that purpose, if the white people in the neighbourhood had not debauched
their morals, and ruined their health with rum, which was the cause of many
disorders, and ended at last in a barbarous murder committed by one of
these Indians when he was drunk, for which the poor wretch was executed
when he was sober. It was matter of great concern to them, however, that
one of their grandees should be put to so ignominious a death. All Indians
have as great an aversion to hanging as the Muscovites, though perhaps not
for the same cleanly reason : these last believing that the soul of one that
dies in this manner, being forced to sally out of the body at the postern, must
needs be defiled. The Sapponies took this execution so much to heart, that
they soon after quitted their settlement and removed in a body to the Ca-
tawbas. The daughter of the Tetero king went away with the Sapponies,
but being the last of her nation, and fearing she should not be treated ac-
cording to her rank, poisoned herself, like an old Roman, with the root of
the trumpet plant. Her father died two years before, who was the most
intrepid Indian we have been acquainted with. He had made himself terri-
ble to all other Indians by his exploits, and had escaped so many dangers
that he was esteemed invulnerable. But at last he died of a pleurisy, the
last man of his race and nation, leaving only that unhappy daughter behind
him, who would not long survive him.

The most uncommon circumstance in this Indian visit was, that they all
came on horse-back, which was certainly intended for a piece of state, be-
cause the distance was but three miles, and it is likely they had walked on
foot twice as far to catch their horses. The men rode more awkwardly than
any Dutch sailor, and the ladies bestrode their palfreys a la mode dc France,
but were so bashful about it, that there was no persuading them to nunmt till
they were quite out of our sight. The French women used to ride a-strad-
dle, not so much to make them sit firmer in the saddle, as from the hopes the
same thing might peradventure befall them that once happened to the nun of
Orleans, who, escaping out of a nunnery, took post en cavalier, and in ten
miles' hard riding had the good f;)rtune to have all the tokens of a man break
out upon her. This piece of history ought to be the more credible, because
it leans u|ion much the same degree of proof as the tale of bishop Burnet's
two Italian nuns, who, according to his lordship's account, underwent the
same happy metamorphosis, probably by some other violent exercis(\

90 THE HISTORY OF

19th. From hence we despatched the cart with our baggage under a
guard, and crossed Meherrin river, which was not thirty yards wide at that
place. By the help of fresh horses, that had been sent us, we now began to
mend our pace, which was also quickened by the strong inclinations we had
to get home. In the distance of five miles we forded Meherrin creek, which
w^as very near as broad as the river. About eight miles farther we came to
Sturgeon creek, so called from the dexterity an Occanechy Indian showed
there in catching one of those royal fish, which was performed after the fol-
lowing manner. In the summer time it is no unusual thing for sturgeons to
sleep on the surface of the water, and one of them having wandered up into
this creek In the spring, was floating in that drowsy condition. The Indian,
above-mentioned, ran up to the neck into the creek a little below the place
where he discovered the fish, expecting the stream would soon bring his
game down to him. He judged the matter right, and as soon as it came
within his reach, he whipped a running noose over his jole. This waked the
sturgeon, which being strong in its own element darted immediately under
water and dragged the Indian after him. The man made it a point of honour
to keep his hold, which he did to the apparent danger of being drowned.
Sometimes both the Indian and the fish disappeared for a quarter of a mi-
nute, and then rose at some distance from where they dived. At this rate
they continued flouncing about, sometimes above and sometimes under wa-
ter, for a considerable time, till at last the hero suffocated his adversary, and
hauled his body ashore in triumph.

About six miles beyond that, we passed over Wicco-quoi creek, named so
from the multitude of rocks over which the water tumbles, in a fresh, with a
bellowing noise. Not far from where we went over, is a rock much higher
than the rest, that strikes the eye with agreeable horror, and near it a very
talkative echo, that, Uke a fluent help-mate, will return her good man seven
words for one, and after all be sure to have the last. It speaks not only the
language of men, but also of birds and beasts, and often a single wild goose
is cheated into the belief that some of his company are not far off", by hear-
ing his own cry multiplied ; and it is pleasant to see in what a flutter the poor
bird is, when he finds himself disappointed. On the banks of this creek are
very broad low-grounds in many places, and abundance of good high-land,
thoucrh a little subject to floods.

We had but two miles more to captain Embry's, where we found the
housekeeping much better than the house. Our bountiful landlady had set
her oven and all her spits, pots, gridirons and saucepans to work, to diversify
our entertainment, though after all it proved but a Mahometan feast, there
being nothmg to drink but water. The worst of it was, we had unluckily
outrode the baggage, and for that reason were obliged to lodge very socia-
bly in the same apartment with the family, where, reckoning women and
children, we mustered in all no less than nine persons, who all pigged loving-
ly together.

20th. In the morning colonel Boiling, who had been surveying in the
neighbourhood, and Mr. Walker, who dwelt not far off", came to visit us ; and
the last of these worthy gentlemen, fearing that our drinking so much water
might incline us to pleurisies, brought us a kind supply both of wine and
cider. It was noon before we could disengage ourselves from the courtesies
of this place, and then the two gentlemen above-mentioned were so good as
to accompany us that day's journey, though they could by no means approve
of our Lithuanian fashion of dismounting now and then, in order to walk
part of the way on foot. We crossed Nottoway river not far from our land-
lord's house, where it seemed to be about twenty-five yards over. This
river divides the county of Prince George from that of Brunswick. We had

THE DIVIDING IJNE gj

not gone eight miles farther before our eyes were blessed with the sight of
Sapponi chapel, which was the first house of prayer we had seen for more
than two calendar months. About three miles beyond that, we passed over
Stony creek, where one of those that guarded the baggage killed a polecat,
upon which he made a comfortable repast. Those of his company were so
squeamish they could not be persuaded at first to taste, as they said, of so un-
savoury an animal; but seeing the man smack his lips with more pleasure
than usual, they ventured at last to be of his mess, and instead of finding the.
flesh rank and high-tasted, they owned it to be the sweetest morsel they had
ever eaten in their lives. The ill savour of this little beast lies altogether in
its urine, which nature has made so detestably ill-scented on purpose to fur-
nish a helpless creature with something to defend itself For as some brutes
have horns and hoofs, and others are armed with claws, teeth and tusks for
their defence ; and as some spit a sort of poison at their adversaries, like the
paco ; and others dart quills at their pursuers, like the porcupine ; and as
some have no weapons to help themselves but their tongues, and others none
but their tails ; so the poor polecat's safety lies altogether in the irresistible
stench of its water ; insomuch that when it finds itself in danger from an
enemy, it moistens its bushy tail plentifully with this liquid ammunition, and
then, with great fury, sprinkles it like a shower of rain full into the eyes of
its assailant, by which it gains time to make its escape. Nor is the polecat
the only animal that defends itself by a stink. At the cape of Good Hope is
a little beast, called a stinker, as big as a fox, and shaped like a ferret, which
being pursued has no way to save itself but by ejecting its wind and excre-
ments, and then such a stench ensues that none of its pursuers can possibly
stand it.

At the end of thirty good miles, we arrived in the evening at colonel Boi-
ling's, where first, from a primitive course of life, we began to relapse into
luxury. This gentleman lives within hearing of the falls of Appomattox
river, which are very noisy whenever a flood happens to roll a greater
stream than ordinary over the rocks. The river is navigable for small craft
as high as the falls, and at some distance from thence fetches a compass, and
runs nearly parallel with James river almost as high as the mountains. While
the commissioners fared sumptuously here, the poor chaplain and two sur-
veyors, having stopped ten miles short at a poor planter's house, in pity to
their horses, made a St. Anthony's meal, that is, they supped upon the
pickings of what stuck in their teeth ever since breakfast. But to make
them amends, the good man laid them in his own bed, where they all three
nestled together in one cotton sheet and one of brown oznaburgs, made still
something browner by two months' copious perspiration. But those worthy
gentlemen were so alert in the morning after their light supper, that they
came up with us before breakfast, and honestly paid their stomachs all they
owed them.

21st. We made no more than a Sabbath day's journey from this to the
next hospitable house, namely, that of our great benefactor, colonel Mumford.
We had already been much befriended by this gentleman, who, besides send-
ing orders to his overseers at Roanoke to let us want for nothing, had, in the
beginning of our business, been so kind as to reconnnend most of the men
to us who were the faithful^ partners of our fatigue. Although in most otiier
achievements those who command are apt take all the honour to themselves
of what perhaps was more owing to the vigour of those who were under
them, yet I must be more just, and allow these brave fellows their full share
of credit for the service we performed, and must declare, that it was in a
great measure owing to their spirit and indelatigable industry that wc over-

y2 THE HISTORY OF

came many obstacles in the course of our line, which till then had been
esteemed insurmountable. Nor must I at the same time omit to do justice to
the surveyors, and particularly to Mr. Mayo, who, besides an eminent degree
of skill, encountered the same hardships and underwent the same fatigue that
the forwardest of the men did, and that with as much cheerfulness as if pain
had been his pleasure, and difficulty his real diversion. Here we discharged
the few men we had left, who were all as ragged as the Gibeonite ambassa-
dors, though, at the same time, their rags were very honourable, by the ser-
vice they had so vigorously performed in making them so.

22d. A little before noon we all took leave and dispersed to our several habita-
tions, where we were so happy as to find all our families well. This crowned
all our other blessings, and made our journey as prosperous as it had been
painful. Thus ended our second expedition, in which we extended the line
within the shadow of the Chariky mountains, where we were obliged to set
up our pillars, like Hercules, and return home. We had now, upon the
whole, been out about sixteen weeks, including going and returning, and had
travelled at least six hundred miles, and no small part of that distance on foot.
Below, towards the seaside, our course leiy through marshes, swamps, and
great waters ; and above, over steep hills, craggy rocks, and thickets, hardly
penetrable. Notwithstanding this variety of hardships, we may say, without
vanity, that we faithfully obeyed the king's orders, and performed the busi-
ness effectually, in which we had the honour to be employed. Nor can we by
any means reproach ourselves of having put the crown to any exorbitant ex-
pense in this difficult affair, the whole charge, from beginning to end, amount-
ing to no more that one thousand pounds. But let no one concerned in this
painful expedition complain of the scantiness of his pay, so long as his majesty
has been graciously pleased to add to our reward the honour of his royal appro-
bation, and to declare, notwithstanding the desertion of the Carolina commis-
sioners, that the line by us run shall hereafter stand as the true boundary be-
twixt the governments of Virginia and North Carolina.

The Names of the Commissioners to direct the ruiining of the Line between
Virginia and Xorth Carolina.

William Bykd, ^

Richard Fitz-william, > Esquires, Commissioners for Virginia.

William Damjridge, j

Christopher Gale, ^

. oHN o\ E ic , I ggg^ujjjjjg Commissioners for Carolina.

Edward Moseley, i

William Little, J

Alexander Irvin, ? c< ,- c \t- ■ •

William Mayo, \ Purveyors for Vngmia.

Edward Moseley, } Surveyors for N. Carolina.

k>AMLEL Swan, ^ ■'

The Reverend Peter Fountain, Chaplain,

THE DIVIDING LINE.

93

Names of the Men employed on the part of Virginia to run thg Line between
that Colony and North Carolina.

ON THE FIRST EXPEDITION,

1 . Peter Jones,

2. Thomas Jones,

3. Thomas Short,

4. Robert Hix,

5. John Evans,

6. Stephen Evans,

7. John Ellis,

8. John Ellis, Jr.

9. Thomas Wilson,

10. George Tilman,

11. Charles Kimbal,
12.. George Hamilton,

13. Robert Allen,

1 4. Thomas Jones, Jr.

15. James Petillo,

16. Richard Smith,

17. John Rice.

ON THE SECOND EXPEDITION.

Peter Jones,
Thomas Jones,
Thomas Short,
Robert Hix,
John Evans,
Stephen Evans,
John Ellis,
John Ellis, Jr.
Thomas Wilson,
George Tilman,
Charles Kimbal,
George Hamilton,
Thomas Jones, Jr.
James Petillo,
Richard Smith,
Abraham Jones,
Edward Powell,
William Pool,
William Calvert,
James Whitlock,
Thomas Page.

Account of the Expense of running the Line between Virginia and North

Carolina.

To the men's wages in current money

To sundry disbursements for provisions, &c.

To paid the men for seven horses lost

The sum of £495 1 1 6 current money reduced at 15 per cent.

sterling amounts to

To paid to colonel Byrd

To paid to colonel Uandridge

To paid Mr. Fitz-william

To paid to the chaplain, Mr. Fountain

To paid to Mr. William Mayo

To paid to Mr. Alexander Irvin

To paid for a tent and marquis

This sum was dischuiged by a warrant out of his majesty's quitrcnts from
the land-s in Virginia.

N

£277

10

0

174

01

6

44

0

0

£495

11

6

£430

8

10

142

5

7

142

5

7

94

0

0

20

0

0

75

0

0

75

0

0

20

0

0

£1000

0

0

94

THE HISTORY OF

APPENDIX

To the foregoing journal, containing the second charter to the proprietors of
Carolina, confirming and enlarging the first, and also several other acts
to which it refers. These are placed by themselves at the end of the book,
that they may not interrupt the thread of the story, and the reader will be
more at liberty whether he will please to read them or not, being something
dry and unpleasant.

The second Charter granted by King Charles II. to the Proprietors of

Carolina.*

Charles, by the grace of God, &c. : Whereas, by our letters patent, bear-
ing date the four and twentieth day of March, in the fifteenth year of our
reign, we were graciously pleased to grant unto our right trusty and right
well beloved cousin and counsellor, Edward, earl of Clarendon, our high
chancellor of England, our right trusty and right entirely beloved cousin
and counsellor, George, duke of Albemarle, master of our horse, our right
trusty and well beloved William, now earl of Craven, our right trusty and
well beloyed counsellor, Anthony, lord Ashley, chancellor of our exchequer,
our right trusty and well beloved counsellor, sir George Carterett, knight
and baronet, vice chamberlain of our household, our right trusty and well
beloved, sir John Colleton, knight and baronet, and sir William Berkley,
knight, all that province, territory, or tract of ground, called Carolina, situate,
lying and being within our dominions of America, extending from the north
end of the island called Luke island, which lies in the southern Virginia seas,
"and within six and thirty degrees of the northern latitude ; and to the west
as far as the South seas ; and so respectively as far as the river of Mathias,
which bordereth upon the coast of Florida, and within one and thirty de-
grees of the northern latitude, and so west in a direct line as far as the South
seas aforesaid. Now know ye, that, at the humble request of the said
grantees in the aforesaid letters patent named, and as a further mark of our
especial favour towards them, we are graciously pleased to enlarge our said
grant unto them according to the bounds and limits hereafter specified, and
in favour to the pious and noble purpose of the said Edward, earl of Claren-
don, Geoi'ge, duke of Albemarle, William, earl of Craven, John, lord Berkley,
Anthony, lord Ashley, sir George Carterett, sir John Colleton and sir William
Berkley, we do give and grant to them, their heirs and assigns, all that pro-
vince, territory, or tract of ground, situate, lying and being within our do-
minions of America aforesaid, extending north and eastward as far as the
north end of Coratuck river or inlet, upon a straight westerly line to Wya-
noke creek, which lies within or about the degrees of thirty-six and thirty
minutes northern latitude, and so west in a direct line as far as the South
seas ; and south and westward as far as the degrees of twenty-nine inclu-
sive northern latitude, and so west in a direct line as far as the South seas ;
together with all and singular ports, harbours, bays, rivers and inlets belong-
ing ugto the province or territory aforesaid. And also, all the soil, lands,
fields, woods, mountains, ferms, lakes, rivers, bays and inlets, situate, or be-

* As this charter is very long, and but a small portion of it lias any relation to the sub-
ject of dispute between the two colonies, no more will be inserted here than so much as
precedes and embraces the matttr in controversy.— Editok.

THE DIVIDING LINE. ; 95

ing within the bounds or hmits last before mentioned : with the fishing of all
sorts of fish, whales, sturgeons, and all other royal fishes in the sea, bays, in-
lets, and rivers, within the premises, and the fish therein taken ; together
with the royalty of the sea, upon the coast within the limits aforesaid. And
moreover, all veins, mines and quarries, as well discovered as not discovered,
of gold, silver, gems and precious stones, and all other whatsoever ; be it
of stones, metals or any other thing found or to be found within the province,
territory, inlets and limits aforesaid. * * * *

At the Court of St. James, the 1st day of March, 17 10.— Present, the Queen's
most excellent majesty in Council.

Upon reading this day at the board a representation from the right ho-
nourable the lords commissioners for trade and plantations, in the words
following: In pursuance of your majesty's pleasure, commissioners have
been appointed on the part of your majesty's colony of Virginia, as likewise
on the part of the province of Carolina, for the settling the bounds between
those governments; and they have met several times for that purpose, but have
not agreed upon any one point thereof, by reason of the trifling delays of the
Carolina commissioners, and of the many difficulties by them raised in rela-
tion to the proper observations and survey they were to make. However,
the commissioners for Virginia have delivered to your majesty's lieutenant
governor of that colony an account of their proceedings, which account
has been under the consideration of your majesty's council of Virginia, and
they have made a report thereon to the said lieutenant governor, who having
lately transmitted unto us a copy of that report, we take leave humbly to lay
the substance thereof before your majesty, which is as follows :

That the commissioners of Carolina are both of them persons engaged in
interest to obstruct the settling the boundaries between that province and
the colony of Virginia ; for one of tiiem has for several years been surveyor
general of Carolina, has acquired to himself great profit by surveying lands
within the controverted bounds, and has taken up several tracts of land in
his own name, and sold the same to others, for which he stands still obliged
to obtain patents from the government of Carolina. The other of them is at
thig time surveyor general, and hath the same prospect of advantage by
making future surveys within the said bounds. That the behavior of the
Carolina commissioners has tended visibly to no other end than to protract
and defeat the settling this affair : and particularly Mr. Moseley has used
so many shifts and excuses to disappoint all conferences with the commis-
sioners of Virginia, as plainly show his aversion to proceed in a business that
tends so manifestly to his disadvantage. His prevaricating on this occasion
has been so indiscreet and so unguarded, as to be discovered in the presence
of the lieutenant governor of Virginia. He started so many objections
to the powers granted to the commissioners of that colony, with design to
render their conferences ineffectual, that his joint commissioner could hardly
find an excuse for him. And when the lieutenant governor had with much
ado prevailed with the said Mr. Moseley to appoint a time for meeting the
commissioners of Virginia, and for bringing the necessary instruments to
take the latitude of the bounds in dispute, which instruments he owned were
ready in Carolina, he not only failed to comply with his own appointment,
but after the commissioners of Virginia had made a journey to his house, and
had attended him to the places proper for observing the latitude, he would
not take the trouble of carrying his own instrument, but contented himself

96 THE HISTORY OF

to find fault with the quadrant produced by the Virginia commissioners,
though that instrument had been approved by the best mathematicians.and
is of universal use. From all which it is evident how little hopes there are
of settling the boundaries above-mentioned, in concert with the present com-
missioners for Carolina. That though the boimds of the Carolina charter
are in express words limited to Weyanoke creek, lying in or about 3G° 30'
of northern latitude, yet the commissioners for Carolina have not by any of
their evidences pretended to prove any such place as Weyanoke creek, the
amount of their evidence reaching no furthei'-than to prove which is Weya-
noke river, and even that is contradicted by affidavit taken on the part of
Virginia; by which affidavits it appears that, before the date of the Carolina
charter to this day, the place they pretend to be Weyanoke river was, and
is still, called Nottoway river. But supposing the same had been called
Weyanoke river, it can be nothing to their purpose, theie being a great dif
ference between a river and a creek: Besides, in that country theie are
divers rivers and creeks of the same name, as Potomac river, and Potomac
creek, Rappahannock river, and Rappahannock creek, and several others,
though there are many miles' distance between the mouths of these rivers
and the mouths of these creeks. It is also observable, that the witnesses on
the part of Carolina are all very ignorant persons, and most of them of ill
fame and reputation, on which account they had been forced to remove from
Virginia to Carolina. Further, there appeared to be many contradictions in
their testimonies, whereas, on the other hand, the witnesses to prove that the
right to those lands is in the government of Virginia are persons of good
credit, their knowledge of the lands in question is more ancient than any of
the witnesses for Carolina, and their evidence fully corroborated by the con-
current testimony of the tributary Indians. And that right is farther con-
firmed by the observations lately taken of the latitude in those parts, by
which it is plain, that the creek proved to be Weyanoke creek by the Vir-
ginia evidences, and sometimes called Wicocon, answers best to the latitude
described in the Carolina charter, for it lies in thirty-six degrees, forty
minutes, which is ten minutes to the northward of the limits described in
the Carolina grant, whereas Nottoway river, lies exactly in the latitude of
thirty -seven degrees, and can by no construction be supposed to be the boun-
dary described in their charter ; so that upon the whole matter, if the com-
missioners of Carolina had no other view than to clear the just right of the
proprietors, such undeniable demonstrations would be sufficient to°convioce
them ; but the said commissioners give too much cause to suspect that they
mix their own private interest with the claim of the proprietors, and for that
reason endeavour to gain time in order to obtain grants for the land already
taken up, and also to secure the rest on this occasion, we take notice, that
they proceed to survey the land in dispute, notwithstanding the assurance
given by the government of Carolina to the contrary by their letter of the
17th of June, 1707, to the government of Virginia, by which letter they pro-
mised that no lands should be taken up within the controverted bounds till
the same were settled.

Whereupon we humbly propose, that the lords proprietors be acquainted
with the foregoing complaint of the trifling delays of their commissioners,
which delays it is reasonable to believe have proceeded from the self-interest
of those commissioners, and that therefore your majesty's pleasure be signi-
fied to the said lords proprietors, that by the first opportunity they send
orders to their governor or commander in chief of Carolina for the time
being, to issue forth a new commission, to the purport of that lately issued,
thereby constituting two other persons, not having any personal interest in,
or claim to, any of the land lying within the boundary, in the room of Rd-

THE DIVlDINfi LINK. 97

ward Moseley and John Lawson. The Carolina commissioners to be appoint-
ed being strictly required to finish their survey, and to make a return
thereof in conjunction with the Virginia commissioners, within six months,
to be computed from the time, that due notice shall be given by your majes-
ty's lieutenant governor of Virginia to the governor or commander in cliief
of Carolina, of the time and place, which your majesty's said lieutenant
governor shall appoint for the first meeting of tlie commissioners on one
part and the other. In order whereunto we humbly offer, that directions be
sent to the said lieutenant governor, to give such notice accordingly ; and
if after notice so given, the Carolina commissioners shall refuse or neglect
to join with those on the part of Virginia, in making such survey, as likewise
a return thereof within the time before mentioned ; that then and in such
case the conmiissioners on the part of Virginia be directed to draw up an
account of the proper observations and survey which they shall have made
for ascertaining the bounds between Virginia and Carolina, and to deliver
the same in writing under their hands and seals to the lieutenant governor
and council of Virginia, to the end the same may be laid before your majesty,
for your majesty's final determination therein, within, with regard to the
settling of those boundaries; the lords proprietors having, by an instrument
under their hands, submitted the same to your majesty's royal determination,
which instrument, dated in March, 1708, is lying in this office.

And lastly, we humbly propose, that your majesty's further pleasure be
signified to the said lords proprietors, and in like manner to the lieutenant
governor of Virginia, that no grants be passed by either of those govern-
ments of any of the lands lying within the controverted bounds, until such
bounds shall be ascertained and settled as aforesaid, whereby it may appear
whether those lands do of right belong to your majesty, or to the lords pro-
prietors of Carolina.

Her majesty in council, approving of the said representation, is pleased to
order, as it is hereby ordered, that the right honourable the lords commis-
sioners for trade and plantations do signify her majesty's pleasure herein to
her majesty's lieutenant governor or commander in chief of Virginia for
the time being, and to all persons to whom it may belong, as is proposed
by their lordships in the said representation, and the right honourable the
lords proprietors of Carolina are to do what on their part does appertain.

EuwARo Southwell. •

Proposals for determining the Controversy reluting to the bounds between the
governments of Virginia and North Carolina, most humbly ojf end for his
Majesty's royal approbation, and for the consent of the right honourable the
Lords Proprietors of Carolina.

Forasmuch as the dispute between the said two governments about their
true limits continues still, notwithstanding the several meetings of the com-
missioners, and all the proceedings of many years past, in order to adjust
that affair, and seeing no speedy determination is likely to ensue, unless
some medium be found out, in which both parties may incline to acquiesce,
wherefore both the underwritten governors having met, and considered the
prejudice both to the king and the lords proprietors' interest, by the con-
tinuance of this contest, and truly endeavouring a decision, which they
judge comes nearest the intention of royal charter granted to the lords
proprietors, do, with the advice and consent ol their resiicctive councils, pro-
pose as follows.

98 THE HISTORY OF

That from the mouth of Coratuck river or inlet, and setting the compass
on the north shore, thereof a due west line be run and fairly marked, and
if it happen to cut Chowan river, between the mouths of Nottoway river
and Wicocon creek, then shall the same direct course be continued towards
the mountains, and be ever deemed the sole dividing line between Virginia
and Carolina.

That if the said west line cuts Chowan river to the southward of Wicocon
creek, then from point of intersection the bounds shall be allowed to continue
up the middle of the said Chowan river to the middle of the entrance into
the said Wicocon creek, and from thence a due west line shall divide the
said two governments.

That if a due west line shall be found to pass through islands or to cut out
small slips of land, which might much jnore conveniently be included in one
province or the other by natural water bounds, in such cases the persons
appointed for running the line shall have power to settle natural iDounds,
provided the commissioners of both sides agree thereto, and that all such
variations from the west line, be particularly noted in the maps or plats,
which they shall return, to be put upon the records of both governments,
all which is humbly submitted by

Charles Eden.
A. Spotswood.

Order of the King and Council upon the foregoing proposals, at the' Court of
St. James, the 26th day of March, 1729. Present, the King's most excel-
lent majesty in Council.

Whereas it has been represented to his majesty at the board, that for ad-
justing the disputes, which have subsisted for many years past, between the
colonies of Virginia and North Carohna, concerning their true boundaries,
the late governors of the said colonies did some time since agree upon cer-
tain proposals for regulating the said boundaries for the future, to which pro-
posals the lords proprietors of Carolina have given their assent ; and where-
as the said proposals were this day presented to his majesty as proper for his
royal approbation.

His majesty is thereupon pleased, with the advice of his privy council, to
approve of the said proposals, a copy whereof is hereunto annexed, and to
order, as it is hereby ordered, that the governor or commander in chief of the
colony of Virginia, do settle the said boundaries, in conjunction with the
governor of North Carolina, agreeably to the said proposals.

Edward Southwell.

The Lieutenant Governor of llrginia's Commission in obedience to his Majesty's

Order.

George the Second, by the grace of God, of Great Britain, France and
Ireland king, defender of the faith, to our trusty and well beloved William
Byrd, Richard Fitz-william, and William Dandridge, Esqrs., members of our
council of the colony and dominion of Virginia, greeting: Whereas our
late royal father of blessed memory was graciously pleased, by order in his
privy council, bearing date the 28th day of March 1727, to approve of cer-
tain proposals agreed upon by Alexander Spotswood, Esq. late lieutenant
governor of Virginia, on the one part, and Charles Eden, Esq. late governor

THE DiVllUNG LINE 99

of the province of North Carolina, for determining the controversy relating
to the bounds between the said two governments, and was farther pleased to
direct and order, that the said boundaries should be laid out and settled
agreeably to the said proposals. .Know ye, therefore, that reposing special
trust and confidence in your ability and provident circumspection, have as-
signed, constituted and appointed, and by these presents do assign, constitute
and appoint you and every of you jointly and severally, our commission-
ers for and on behalf of our colony and dominion of Virginia, to meet the
commissioners appointed or to be appointed on the part of the province of
North Carolina, and in conjunction with them to cause a line or lines of
division to be run and marked, to divide the said two governments according
to the proposals above-mentioned, and the order of our late royal father,
copies of both which you will herewith receive. And we do further give and
grant unto you, and in case of the death or absence of any of you, such of
you as shall be present, full power and authority to treat and agree with the
said commissioners of the province of North Carolina on such rules and
methods as you shall judge most expedient for the adjusting and finally de-
termining all disputes or controversies which may arise, touching any islands
or other small slips of land which may happen to be intersected or cut off by
the dividing line aforesaid, and which may with more conveniency be in-
cluded in the one province or the other by natural water bounds, agreeably
to the proposals aforementioned, and generally to do and perform all matters
and things requisite for the final determination and settlement of the said
boundaries, according to the said proposals. And to the end our service
herein may not be disappointed through the refusal or delay of the commis-
sioners for the province of North Carolina, to act in conjunction with you in
settling the boundaries aforesaid, we do hereby give and grant unto you, or
such of you as shall be present at the time and place appointed for running
the dividing line "foresaid, full power and authority to cause the said line
to be run and marked out, conformable to the said proposals, having due re-
gard to the doing equal justice to us, and to the lords proprietors of Carolina,
any refusal, disagreement, or opposition of the said commissioners of North
Carolina notwithstanding. And in that case we do hereby require you to
make a true report of your proceedings to our lieutenant governor, or com-
mander in chief of Virginia, in order to be laid before us for our approbation,
and final determination herein. And in case any person or persons what-
soever shall presume to disturb, molest or resist you, or any of the officers
or persons by your direction, in running the said line, and executing the
powers herein given you, we do by these presents give and grant unto you,
or such of you as shall be attending the service aforesaid, full power and
authority by warrant under your or any of your hands and seals, to order
and command all and every the militia officers in our counties of Princess
Anne, Norfolk, Nansemond, and Isle of Wight, or other the adjacent
counties, together with the sheriff of each of the said counties, or
either of them, to raise the militia and posse of the said several counties,
for the removing all force and opposition, which shall or may be made to you
in the due execution of this our commission, and we do hereby will and re-
quire, as well the officers of the militia, as all other our officers and loving
subjects within the said counties, and all others whom it may concern, to be
obedient, aiding and assisting unto you in all and singular the premises.
And we do in like manner conmiand and require you, to cause fair maps and
descriptions of the said dividing line, and the remarkable places through
which it shall pass, to be made and returned to our lieutenant governor or
commander in chief of our saiil colony for the time ix'ing, in onler to be en-
tered on record in the proper otfiecs within our said colony. Provided that

100 I♦^^• HISTORY OF

you do not, by colour ot this our commission, take upon you or determine
any private man's property, in or to the lands which shall ijy tlie said
dividing line be included within the limits of Virginia, nor of any other mat-
ter or thing that doth not relate immediately to the adjusting, settling, and
final determination of the boundary aforesaid, conformable to'the proposals
hereinbefore mentioned, and not otherwise. In witness whereof we have
caused these presents to be made. Witness our trusty and well beloved
William Gooch, Esq. our lieutenant governor and commander in chief of our
colony and dominion of \'irginia, under the seal of our said colony, at
Williamsburg, the 14th day of December, 1727, in the first year of our
leign. WiLLuvM Goocn.

The Goctrnor of North Carolina's Commission in obedience to his Majesty's

Order.

Sir Richard Everard, baronet, governor, captain general, admiral, and
commander in chief of tlie said province: To Christopher Gale, Esq. chief
justice, John Lovick, Esq., secretary, Edward Moseley, Esq., surveyor general
and AVilliam Little, Esq., attorney general, greeting : Whereas many disputes
and differences have formerly been between tlie inhabitants of this province
and those of his majesty's colony of Virginia, concerning the boundaries and
limits between the said two governments, which having been duly considered
by Charles Eden, Esq., late governor of this province, and Alexander Spots-
wood, Esq., late governor of Virginia, they agreed to certain proposals for de-
termining the said controversy, and humbly offered the same for his majesty's
royal approbation, and the consent of the true and absolute lords pro-
prietors of Carolina. And his majesty having been pleased to signify his
royal approbation of those proposals (consented unto by the true and abso-
lute lords proprietors of Carolina) and given directions for adjusting and
settling the boundaries as near as may be to the said proposals :

I, therefore, reposing especial trust and confidence in you, the said Christo-
pher Gale, John Lovick, Edward Moseley and William Little, to be commis-
sioners, on the part of the true and absolute lords proprietors, and that you
in conjunction with such commissioners as shall be nominated for Virginia,
use your utmost endeavours, and take all necessary care in adjusting and
settling the said boundaries, by drawing such a distinct line or lines of divi-
sion between the said two provinces, as near as reasonable you can to the
proposals made by the two former governors, and the instructions herewith
given you. Given at the council chamber in Edenton, under my hand, and
the seal of the colony, the 21st day of February, anno Domini 1727, and in
the first year of the reign of our sovereign lord, king George the Second.

Richard Everard.

The Protest of the Carolina Commissioners, against our proceeding on the

Line without them.

We the underwritten commissioners for the government of North Caro-
lina, in conjunction with the commissioners on the part of Virginia, having
run the line for the division of the two colonies from Coratuck inlet, to the
south branch of Roanoke river ; being in the whole about one hundred and
seventy miles, and near fifty miles without the inhabitants, being of opinion
we had run the line as far as would be requisite for a long time, judged the

THE DIVIDING LINE. IQJ

carrying it farther would be a needless charge and trouble. And the grand
debate which had so long subsisted between the two governments, about
Weyanoke river or creek, being settled at our former meeting in the spring,
when we were ready on our parts to have gone with the line to the utmost
inhabitants, which if it had been done, the line at any time after might have
been continued at an easy expense by a surveyor on each side ; and if at
any time hereafter there should be occasion to carry the line on further than
we have now run it, which we think will not be in an age or tv/o, it may be,
done in the same easy manner, without the great expense that now attends
it. And on a conference of all the commissioners, we have communicated
our sentiments thereon, and declared our opinion, that we had gone as far as
the service required, and thought proper to proceed no farther ; to which it
was answered by the commissioners for Virginia, that they should not I'egard
what we did, but if we desisted, they would proceed without us. But we,
conceiving by his majesty's order in council they were directed to act in
conjunction with the commissioners appointed for Carolina, and having ac-
cordingly run the line jointly so far, and exchanged plans, thought they could
not carry on the bounds singly ; but that their proceedings without us would
be irregular and invalid, and that it would be no boundary, and thought
proper to enter our dissent thereto. Wherefore, for the reasons aforesaid, in
the name of his excellency the lord palatine, and the rest of the true and
absolute lords proprietors of Carolina, we do hereby dissent and disallow of
any farther proceeding with the bounds without our concurrence, and pur-
suant to our instructions do give this our dissent in writing.

Edward Moselbt.

William Little.

C. Gale.
October 7th, 1728. J. Lovick.

The Ansiver of the Virginia Commissioners to the foregoing Protest.

Whereas, on the 7th of October last, a paper was delivered to us by the
commissioners of North Carolina, in the style of a protest, against our carry-
ing any farther, without them, the dividing line between the two governments,
we, the underwritten commissioners on the part of Virginia, having maturely
considered the reasons offered in the said protest, why those gentlemen re-
tired so soon from that service, beg leave to return the following answer :

They are pleased in the first place to allege, by way of reason, that hav-
ing run the line near fifty miles beyond the inhabitants, it was sufficient for
a long time, in their opinion for an age or two. To this we answer that, by
breaking off so soon, they did but imperfectly obey his majesty's order, as-
sented to by the lords proprietors. The plain meaning of that order was,
to ascertain the bounds betwixt the two governments as far towards the
mountains as we could, that neither the king's grants may hereafter encroach
on the lords proprietors', nor theirs on the rights of his majesty. And
though the distance towards the great mountains be not precisely determin-
ed, yet surely the west line should be carried as near tiiem as may be, that
both the king's lands and those of their lordships, may be taken up tlie
faster, and that iiis majesty's subjects may as soon as possible extend tliem-
selves to that natural barrier. This they will certainly do in a few years,
when they know distinctly in which government they may enter for the
land, as they have already done in the more northern parts of Virginia. So
that it is strange the Carolina cnmniissionprs should affirm, that the distance
only of fifty miles above the inhabitants would he sufficient to carry the
O

102 THE DIVIDING LINE.

line for an age or two, especially considering tliat, two or three days before
the date of their protest, Mr. Mayo had entered with them for two thousand
acres of land, within five miles of the place where they left off. Besides, if
we reflect on the richness of the soil in those parts, and the convenience for
stock, we may foretell, without the spirit of divination, that there will be
many settlements higher than those gentlemen went, in less than ten years,
and perhaps in half that time.

Another reason mentioned in the protest for their retiring so soon from the
service is, that their going farther would be a needless charge and trouble.
And they allege that the rest may be done by one surveyor on a side, in an
easy manner, whenever it shall be thought necessary.

To this we answer, that frugality for the public is a rare virtue, but when
the public service must suffer by it, it degenerates into a vice. And this will
ever be the case when gentlemen execute the orders of their superiors by
halves. But had the Carolina commissioners been sincerely frugal for their
government, why did they carry out provisions sufficient to support them
and their men for ten weeks, when they mtended not to tarry half that
time 1 This they must own to be true, since they brought one thousand
pounds of provisions along with them. Now, after so great an expense in
their preparations, it had been no mighty addition to their charge, had they
endured the fatigue five or six weeks longer. It would at most have been
no more than they must be at, whenever they finish their work, even though
they should fancy it proper to trust a matter of that consequence to the
management of one surveyor. Such a one must have a number of men
along with him, both for his assistance and defence, and those men must
have provisions to support them.

These are all the reasons these gentlemen think fit to mention in their
protest, though they had in truth a more powerful argument for retiring so
abruptly, which, because they forgot, it will be neighbourly to help them out.
The provisions they intended to bring along with them, for want of horses
to carry them, were partly dropped by the way, and what they could bring
was husbanded so ill, that after eighteen days, (which was the whole time
we had them in our company,) they had no more left, by their own confes-
sion, than two pounds of biscuit for each man, to carry them home. How-
ever, though this was an unanswerable reason for gentlemen for leaving the
business unfinished, it was none at all for us, who had at that time bread
sufficient for seven weeks longer. Therefore, lest their want of manage-
ment might put a stop to his majesty's service, and frustrate his royal inten-
tions, we judged it our duty to proceed without them, and have extended
the dividing line so far west as to leave the great mountains on each hand
to the eastward of us. And this we have done with the same fidelity and
exactness as if the gentlemen had continued with us. Our surveyors
(whose integrity I am persuaded they will not call in question) continued to
act under the same oath, which they had done from the beginning. Yet, not-
withstanding all this, if the government of North Carolina should not hold
itself bound by that part of the line which we made without the assistance
of its commissioners, yet we shall have this benefit in it at least, that his ma-
jesty will know how far his lands reach towards the south, and consequently
where his subjects may take it up, and how far they may be granted without
injustice to the loi'ds proprietors. To this we may also add, that having
the authority of our commission, to act without the commissioners of
Carolina, in case of their disagreement or refusal, we thought ourselves bound
upon their retreat to finish the line without them, lest his majesty's service
might suffer by any honour or neglect on their part.

William Dandridgjs.
William Byro.

A

JOURNEY

THE LAND OF EDEN:

IN THE YEAR 1733.

September 11th. Having recommended my family to the protection of the
Almighty, I crossed the river with two servants and four horses, and rode to
Col. Mumford's. There I met my friend, Mr. Banister, who was to be the
kind companion of my travels. I stayed dinner with the good colonel, while
Mr. Banister made the best of his way home, to get his equipage ready, in
order to join me the next day. After dining plentifully, and wishing all that
was good to the household, I proceeded to major Mumford's, who had also
appointed to go along with me. I was the more obliged to him, because he
made me the compliment to leave the arms of a pretty wife, to lie on the cold
ground for my sake. She seemed to chide me with her eyes, for coming to
take her bedfellow from her, now the cold weather came on, and to make
my peace, I was forced to promise to take an abundance of care of him, in
order to restore him safe and sound to her embraces.

12th. After the major had cleared his pipes, in calling with much authority
about him, he made a shift to truss up his baggage about nine o'clock. Near
the same hour my old friend and fellow traveller, Peter Jones, came to us
completely accoutred. Then we fortified ourselves with a beef-steak, kissed
our landlady for good luck, and mounted about ten. The major took one
Robin Boiling with him, as squire of his body, as well as conductor of his
baggage. Tom Short had promised to attend me, but had married a wife
and could not come. We crossed Hatcher's run, Gravelly run. Stony creek,
and in the distance of about twenty miles reached Sapponi chapel, where
Mr. Banister joined us. Thus agreeably reinforced we proceeded ten miles
further, to major Em.bry's, on the south side of Nottoway river. The major
was ill of a purging and vomiting, attended with a fever which had brought
him low ; but I prescribed him a gallon or two of chicken broth, which washed
him as clean as a gun, and quenched his fever. Here major Mayo met us, well
equipped for a march into the woods, bringing a surveyor's tent, tliat would
shelter a small troop. Young Tom Jones also repaired hither to make his ex-
cuse ; but old Tom Jones, by the privilege of iiis age, neither came nor sent, so
that we were not so strong as we intended, being disappointed of three of our
ablest foresters. The entertainment we met with was the less sumptuous by
reason of our landlord's indisposition. On thisorrasinn we were as little trou-
blesome as possible, by sending part of our company to Richard Birch's, who
lives just by the bridge over the river. We sent for an old Indian called
Shacco-Will, living about seven mile.s ofT. who reckoned himself .seventy-
eight years old. This fi*llo\v pit^ffinlcd ho could conduct us to a silver mine,

104

A JOURNEY TO

that lies eitlier upon Eno river, or a creek of it, not far from where the Tus-
caroras once lived. But by some circumstances in his story, it seems to
be rather a lead than a silver mine. However, such as it is, he promised to
go and show it to me whenever I pleased. To comfort his heart, I gave him
a bottle of rum, with which he made himself very happy, and all the family
very miserable by the horrible noise he made all night.

1 3th. Our landlord had great relief from my remedy, and found himself
easy this morning. On this account we took our departure with more satis-
faction, about nine, and having picked up our friends at Mr. Birch's, pursued
our journey over Q,uoique creek, and Sturgeon run, as far as Brunswick
court house, about twelve miles beyond Nottoway. By the way, I sent a
runner half a mile out of the road to Col. Drury Stith's, who was so good as
to come to us. We cheered our hearts with three bottles of pretty good
Madeira, which made Drury talk very hopefully of his copper mine. We
easily prevailed with him to let us have his company, upon condition we
would take the mine in our way. From thence we proceeded to Meherrin
river, which lies eight miles beyond the court house, and in our way forded
Great creek. For fear of being belated, we called not at my quarter, where
Don Pedro is overseer, and lives in good repute amongst his neighbours.
In compliment to the little major we went out of our way, to lie at a settle-
ment of his upon Cock's creek, four miles short of Roanoke. Our fare here
was pretty coarse, but Mr. Banister and I took possession of the bed, while
the rest of the company lay in bulk upon the floor. This night the little
major made the first discovery of an impatient and peevish temper, equally
unfit both for a traveller and a husband.

1 4th. In the morning my friend Tom Wilson made me a visit, and gave
me his parole that he would meet us at Blue Stone Castle. We took horse
about nine, and in the distance of ten miles reached a quarter of Col. Stith's,
under the management of John Tomasin. This plantation lies on the west
side of Stith's creek, which was so full of water, by reason of a fresh in the
river, that we could not ford it, but we and our baggage were paddled over
in a canoe, and our horses swam by our sides. After staying here an hour,
with some of Diana's maids of honour, we crossed Miles' creek a small
distance off, and at the end of eight miles were met by a tall, meager figure,
which I took at first for an apparition, but it proved to be Col. Stith's miner.
I concluded that the unwholesome vapours arising from the copper mine had
made this operator such a skeleton, but upon inquiry understood it was
sheer famine had brought liim so low. He told us his stomach had not been
blessed with one morsel of meat for more than three weeks, and that too he
had been obliged to short allowance of bread, by reason corn was scarce and
to be fetched from Tomasin's, which was ten long miles fi-om the mine
where he -lived. However, in spite of this spare diet, the man was cheerful,
and uttered no complaint. Being conducted by him, we reached the mines
about five o'clock, and pitched our tents, for the first time, there being yet no
building erected but a log-house, to shelter the miner and his two negroes.
We examined the mine and found it dipped from cast to west, and showed
but a slender vein, embodied in a hard rock of white spar. The shaft they
had opened was about twelve feet deep, and six over. I saw no more than
one peck of good ore above ground, and that promised to be very rich.
The engineer seemed very sanguine, and had not the least doubt but his em-
ployer's fortune was made. He made us the compliment of three blasts, and
we filled his belly with good beef in return, which in his hungry circum-
stances was the most agreeable present we could make him.

15th. It rained in the morning, which made us decamp later than we in-
tended, but the clouds clearing away about ten, we wished good luck to

THE LAND OF EDEN. ]05

the mine and departed. We left Col, Stith there to keep fast with his miner,
and directed ourcom'se through the woods to Boucher's creek, which hath its
name from an honest fellow that lives upon it. This place is about six miles
from Col. Stith's works, and can also boast of a very fair show of copper ore.
It is dug out of the side of a hill, that rises gradually from the creek to the
house. The good man was from home himself; but his wife, who was as old
as one of the Sibyls, refreshed us with an ocean of milk. By the strength
of that entertainment, we proceeded to Mr. Mumford's quarter, about five
miles off, where Joseph Colson is overseer. Here our thirsty companions
raised their drooping spirits with a cheerful dram, and having wet both eyes,
we rode on seven miles farther to Blue Stone Castle, five whereof were
through my own land, that is to say, all above Sandy creek. My land there
in all extends ten miles upon the river ; and three charming islands, namely,
Sapponi, Occaneeche, and Totero, run along the whole length of it. The
lowest of these islands is three miles long, the next four, and the uppermost
three, divided from each other by only a narrow strait. The soil is rich in
all of them, the timber large, and a kind of pea, very grateful to cattle and
horses, holds green all the winter. Roanoke river is divided by these islands ;
that part which runs on the north side is about eighty yards, and that on
the south more than one hundred. A large fresh will overflow the lower
part of these islands, but never covers all, so that the cattle may always re-
cover a place of security. The middlemost island, called Occaneeche island,
has several fields in it where Occaneeche Indians formerly lived, and there
are still some remains of the peach trees they planted. Here grow likewise
excellent wild hops without any cultivation. My overseer, Flarry Morris, did
his utmost to entertain me and my company ; the worst of it was, we were
obliged all to be littered down in one room, in company with my landlady
and four children, one of which was very sick, and consequently very fretful.

16th. This being Sunday, and the place where we were quite out of
Christendom, very little devotion went forward. I thought it no harm to
take a Sabbath day's journey, and rode with my overseer to a new entry I
had made upon Blue Stone creek, about three miles from the castle, and found
the land very fertile and convenient. It consists of low grounds and mea-
dows on both sides the creek. After taking a view of this, we rode two
miles farther to a stony place, where there were some tokens of a copper
mine, but not hopeful enough to lay me under any temptation. Then we
returned to the company, and found Tom Wilson was come according
to his promise, in order to proceed into the woods along with us.
Jo. Colson likewise entered into pay, having cautiously made his bargain
for a pistole. There were three Tuskeruda Indians, (which I understood
had been kept on my plantation to hunt for Harry Morris,) that with much
ado were also persuaded to be of the party. My landlady could not forbear
discovering some broad signs of the fury, by breaking out into insolent and
passionate expressions against the poor negroes. And if my presence could
not awe her, I concluded she could be very outrageous when I was a hun-
dred miles off. This inference I came afterwards to understand was but
too true, for, between the husband and the wife, the negroes had a hard time
of it.

17th. We set off about nine from Blue Stone Castle, and rode up the
river six miles, (one half of which distance was on my own land,) as far as
major Mumford's quarter, where master Hogen was tenant upon halves.
Here were no great marks of industry, the weeds being near as high as the
corn. My islands run up within a little way of this place, which will ex{iose
them to the inroad of the major's creatures. That called Totero island lies
too convenient not to receive damage that way; but we must guard against

10(6 A JOURNEY TO

it as well as we can. After the major had convinced himself of the idleness
of his tenant, he returned back to Blue Stone, and Harry Morris and I went
in quest of a fine copper mine, which he had secured for me in the fork.
For which purpose, about a quarter of a mile higher than Hogen's, we crossed
a narrow branch of the river into a small island, not yet taken up, and after
traversing that, forded a much wider branch into the fork of Roanoke river.
Where we landed was near three miles higher up than the point of the fork.
We first directed our course easterly towards that point, which was very
sharp, and each branch of the river where it divided first seemed not to ex-
ceed eighty yards in breadth. The land was broken and barren off from
the riv^er, till we came within half a mile of the point where the low-grounds
began. The same sort of low ground ran up each branch of the river.
That on the Staunton (being the northern branch) was but narrow, but that
on the south, which is called the Dan, seemed to carry a width of at least
half a mile. After discovering this place, for which I intended to enter, we
rode up the mid-land five miles to view the mine, which in my opinion hardly
answered the trouble of riding so far out of our way. We returned down-
wards again about four miles, and a mile from the point found a good
ford over the north branch, into the upper end of Totero island. We
crossed the river there, and near the head of the island saw a large quantity
of wild hops growing, that smelt fragrantly, and seemed to be in great per-
fection. At our first landing we were so hampered with brambles, vines and
poke bushes, that our horses could hardly force their way through them.
However, this difficulty held only about twenty-five yards at each end of the
island, all the rest being very level and free from underwood. We met with
old fields where the Indians had formerly lived, and the grass grew as high
as a horse and his rider. In one of these fields were large duck ponds, very
firm at the bottom, to which wild fowl resort in the winter. In the woody
part of the island grows a vetch, that is green all the winter, and a great
support for horses and cattle, though it is to be feared the hogs will root it
all up. There is a cave in this island, in which the last Totero king, with
only two of his men, defended himself against a great host of northern In-
dians, and at last obliged them to retire. We forded the strait out of this
into Occaneeche island, which was full of large trees, and rich land, and the
south part of it is too high for any flood less than Noah's to drown, we rode
about two miles down this island, .(being half the length of it,) where finding
ourselves opposite to Blue Stone Castle, we passed the river in a canoe,
which had been ordered thither for that purpn=;p, and joined our friends, very
much tired, not so much with the length of the journey, as wuth the heat of
the weather.

1 8th. We lay by till the return of the messenger that we sent for the am-
munition, and other things left at the court house. Nor had the Indians yet
joined us according to their promise, which made us begin to doubt of their
veracity. I took a solitary walk to the first ford of Blue Stone creek, about
a quarter of a mile from the house. This creek had its name from the colour
of the stones, which paved the bottorn of it, and are so smooth that it is pro-
bable they will burn into lime. I took care to return to my company by
dinner time, that I might not trespass upon their stomachs. In the afternoon
I was paddled by the overseer and one of my servants up the creek, but
could proceed little farther than a mile because of the shoal water. All the
way we perceived the bottom of the creek full of the blue stones above men-
tioned, sufficient in quantity to build a large castle. At our return we went
into the middle of the river, and stood upon a large blue rock to angle, but
without any success. We broke off a fragment of the rock, and found it
as heavy as so much lead. Discouraged by our ill luck, we repaired to the

THE LAND OF EDEN. 107

company, who had procured some pieces of copper ore from Cargll's mine,
which seemed full of metal. This mine lies about twelve miles higher than
major Mumford's plantation, and has a better show than any yet discovered.
There are so many appearances of copper in these parts, that the inhabitants
seem to be all mine-mad, and neglect making of corn for their present neces-
sities, in hopes of growing very rich hereafter.

19th. The heavens lowered a little upon us in the morning, but, like a
damsel ruffled by too bold an address, it soon cleared up again. Because I.
detested idleness, I caused my overseer to paddle me up the river as far as
the strait that divides Occaneeche from Totero island, which is about
twenty yards wide. There runs a swift stream continually out of the south
part of the river into the north, and is in some places very deep. We crossed
the south part to the opposite shore, to view another entry I had made, be-
ginning at Buffalo creek and running up the river to guard my islands, and
keep off bad neighbours on that side. The land seems good enough for corn
along the river, but a quarter of a mile back it is broken, and full of stones.
After satisfying my curiosity, I returned the way that I came, and shot the
same strait back again, and paddled down the river to the company.
When we got home, we laid the foundation of two large cities. One at
Shacco's, to be called Richmond, and the other at the point of Appomattox
river, to be named Petersburg. These major Mayo offered to lay out into
lots without fee or reward. The truth of it is, these two places being the
uppermost landing of James and Appomattox rivers, are naturally intended
for marts, where the traffic of the outer inhabitants must centre. Thus we did
not build castles only, but also cities in the air. In the evening our ammunition
arrived safe, and the Indians came to us, resolved to make part of our com-
pany, upon condition of their being supplied with powder and shot, and
having the skins of all the deer they killed to their own proper use.

20th. Every thing being ready for a march, we lefl Blue Stone Castle
about ten. My company consisted of four gentlemen (namely, major Mayo,
major Mumford, Mr. Banister and Mr. Jones,) and five woodsmen, Thomas
Wilson, Henry Morris, Joseph Colson, Robert Boiling and Thomas Hooper,
four negroes and three Tuscaruda Indians. With this small troop we pro-
ceeded up the river as far as Hogen's, above which, about a quarter of a
mile, we forded into the little island, and from thence into the fork of the
river. The water was risen so high, that it ran into the top of my boots,
but without giving me any cold, although I rode in my wet stockings. We
landed three miles above the point of the fork, and, after marching three miles
farther, reached the tenement of Peter Mitchell, the highest inhabitant on
Roanoke river. Two miles above that we forded a water, whicli we named
Birche's creek, not far from the mouth, where it discharges itself into the
Dan. From thence we rode through charming low-groumls, for six miles
together, to a larger stream, which we agreed to call Banister river. We
were puzzled to find a ford by reason the water was verj' high, but at last
got sale over, about one and a half miles from the banks of the l>an. In our
way we killed two very large rattle-snakes, one of fifteen and the other of
twelve rattles. They were both fat, but nobody would be persuaded to car-
ry them to our quarters, although they would have added nuich to the
luxury of our supper. We pitched our tents upon Banister river, where we
feasted on a young buck which had the ill luck to cross our way. It rained
great part of the night, with very loud tiiunder, which rumbled frightfully
amongst the tall trees that surrounded us in that low ground, but, thank God 1
without any damage. Our Indians killed three deer, but were so lazy tiicy
brought them not to the camp, pretending for their e.xcuse that they were
too lean.

108 A JOURNEY TO

21st. The necessity of Jrying our baggage prevented us from marching
tilJ eleven o'clock. Then we proceeded through low-grounds whicli were
tolerably wide for three miles together, as far as a small creek, named by us
Morris' creek. This tract of land I persuaded Mr. Banister to enter for,
that he might not be a loser by the expedition. The low grounds held good
a mile beyond the creek, and then the highland came quite to the river, and
made our travelling more difficult. All the way we went we perceived there
had been tall canes lately growing on the bank of the river, but were uni-
versally killed ; and inquiring into the reason of this destructton, we were
told that the nature of those canes was, to shed their seed but once in seven
years, and the succeeding winter to die, and make room for young ones to
grow up in their places. Thus much was certain, that four years before we
saw canes grow and flourish in several places, where they now lay dead and
dry upon the ground. The whole distance we travelled in this day by com-
putation was fifteen miles, and then the appearance of a black cloud, which
threatened a gust, obliged us to take up our quarters. We had no sooner
got our tents over our heads, but it began to rain and thunder furiously, and
one clap succeeded the lightning the same instant, and inade all tremble be-
fore it. But, blessed be God ! it spent its fury upon a tall oak just by our
camp. Our Indians were so fearful of falling into the hands of the Catawbas,
that they durst not lose sight of us all day; so they killed nothing, and we
were forced to make a temperate supper upon bread and cheese. It was
strange we met with no wild turkeys, this being the season in which great
numbers of them used to be seen towards the mountains. They commonly
perched on the high trees near the rivers and creeks. But this voyage, to
our great misfortune, there were none to be found. So that we could not
commit that abomination, in the sight of all Indians, of mixing the flesh of
deer and turkeys in our broth.

22d. We were again obliged to dry our baggage, which had been thoroughly
soaked with the heavy rain that fell in the ni'ght. While we stayed for that,
our hunters knocked down a brace of bucks, wherewith we made ourselves
amends for our scanty supper the aforegoing night. All these matters being
duly performed made it near noon before we sounded to horse. We march-
ed about two miles over fine low-grounds to a most pleasant stream, which
we named the Medway, and by the way discovered a rich neck of highland
that lay on the south side of the Dan, and looked very tempting. Two miles
beyond the Medway, we forded another creek, which we called Maosty
creek. The whole distance between these two streams lay exceeding rich
lands, and the same continued two miles higher. This body of low-grounds
tempted me to enter for it, to serve as a stage between my land at the fork,
and the Land of Eden. The heavens looked so menacing that we resolved
to take up our quartei's two miles above Maosty creek, where we intrenched
ourselves on a rising ground. We had no sooner taken these precautions,
but it began to rain unmercifully, and to put out our fire as fast as we could
kindle it; nor was it only a hasty shower, but continued with great impe-
tuosity most part of the night. We preferred a dry fast to a wet feast, be-
ing unwilling to expose the people to the weather, to gratify an unreasonable
appetite. However it was some comfort, in the midst of our abstinence, to
dream of the delicious breakfast we intended to make next morning, upon a
fat doe and two-year-old bear our hunters had killed the evening before.
Notwithstanding all the care we could take, several of the men were dripping
wet, and, among the rest, Harry Morris dabbled so long in the rain, that he
was seized with a violent fit of an ague that shook him almost out of all his
patience.

23d. It was no loss of time to rest in our camp according to the duty of

THE LAND OF EDEN 109

the day, because our batrgage was so wet it needed a whole day to dry it.
For this purpose we kindled four several tires, in the absence of the sun,
which vouchsafed us not one kind look the wliole day. My servant had drop-
ped his ereat-coat yesterday, and two of the men were so good-natured as
to ride blick and look for it to-day, and were so lucky as to find it. Our In-
dians having no notion of the sabbath, went out to hunt for something fo.
dinner, and brought a young doe back along witli them. They laughed at the
En-lish for losing one day in seven ; though the joke may be turned upon
them for losing the whole seven, if idleness and doing nothing to toe pur-
pose may be called loss of time. I looked out narrowly for ginseng, this
being the season when it wears its scarlet fruit, but neither now nor any
other time during the whole journey could I find one single plant of it This
made me conclude that it delighted not in quite so southerly a climate ; and
in truth I never heard of its growing on this side oi thirty-eight degrees of
latitude But to make amends we saw abundance of sugar trees in all these
low--rounds, which the whole summer long the woodpeckers tap, for ttie
swee't juice that flows out of them. Towards the evening a strong north-
wester was so kind as to sweep all the clouds away, that had blackened our
sky and moistened our skins, for some time past.

94th The rest the sabbath had given us made every body alert this morn-
in«r^ so 'that we mounted before nine o'clock. This diligence happened to be
the'more necessary, by reason the woods we encountered this day were ex-
ceedinc-ly bushy and uneven. At the distance of four miles we forded both
branclfes of Forked creek, which lay within one thousand paces from each
other My horse fell twice under me, but, thank God ! without any damage
either to himself or his rider; and major Mayo's baggage horse rolled down
a steep hill, and ground all his biscuit to rocahominy. My greatest disaster
was that, in mounting one of the precipices, my steed made a short turn and
gave my knee an unmerciful bang against a tree, and I felt the effects of it
several days after. However, this was no interruption of our journey, out
we went merrily on, and two miles farther crossed Peter's creek, and two miles
after that Jones' creek. Between these creeks was a good breadth of low-
grounds with which Mr. Jones was tempted, though he shook his head at
the distance A little above Jones' creek, we met with a pleasant situation,
where the herbage appeared more inviting than usual. The horses were so
fond of it that we determined to camp there, although the sun had not near
finished his course. This gave some of our company leisure to go out and
search for the place where our line first crossed the Dan, and by good luck
thev found it within half a mile of the camp. But the place was so altered
bv the desolation which had happened to the canes, (which had f^^)rmerly
frincred the banks of the river a full fiirlong deep,) that we hardly knew it
agatn Pleased with this discovery, I forgot the pain in my knee, and the
whole company ate their venison without any other sauce than keen appetite.

25th The weather now befriending us, we despatched our little allairs in
good time and marched in a body to the line, it was already grown very
dim by reason many of the marked trees were burnt or blown down.
However we made shifr, after riding little more than half a mile, to find it, and
havin*^ once found it, stuck as clo.se to it as we could. After a maivh ol two
miles "we got upon Cane creek, where we saw the same havoc amongst the
old canes that we had observed in other places, and a m hole forest of young
ones springing up in their stead. We pursued our journey over hills and
dales till we arrived at the second ford of the Dan, which we pa.sscd with no
other damage than sopping a little of our bread, and shipping -some water at
the tops of our boots. The late rains having been a little unmoderate. iiad
rai.?ed the water and made a cinrcnt in Ihe river. We drove on four miles
1'

no A JOURNEY TO

farther to a plentiful run of very clear water, and quartered on a rising
ground a bow-shot from it. We had no sooner pitched the tents, but one of
our woodsmen alarmed us with the news that he had followed the tracli of
a great body of Indians to the place where they had lately encamped. That
there he had found no less than ten huts, the poles whereof had green leaves
still fresh upon them. That each of these huts had sheltered at least ten
Indians, who, by some infallible marks, must have been northern Indians.
That they must needs have taken their departure from thence no longer ago
than the day before, having erected those huts to protect themselves from the
late heavy rains. These tidings I could perceive were a little shocking to
some of the company, and particularly the little major, whose tongue had
never Iain still, was taken speechless for sixteen hours. I put as good a
countenance upon the matter as I could, assuring my fellow travellers, that
the northern Indians were at peace with us, and although one or two of them
may now and then commit a robbery or a murder, (as other rogues do,) yet
nationally and avowedly they would not venture to hurt us. And in case
they were Catawbas, the danger would be as little from tliem, because they
are too fond of our trade to lose it for the pleasure of shedding a little Eng-
lish blood. But supposing the worst, that they might break through all the
rules of self-interest, and attack us, yet we ought to stand bravely on our
defence, and sell our lives as dear as we could. That we should have no
more fear on this occasion, than just to make us more watchful and better
provided to receive the enemy, if they had the spirit to venture upon us.
This reasoning of mine, though it could not remove the panic, yet it abated
something of the palpitation, and made us double our guard. However, I
found it took off the edge of most of our appetites, for every thing but the
rum bottle, which was more in favor than ever, because of its cordial quality.
I hurt my other knee this afternoon, but not enough to spoil either my
dancing or my stomach.

26th. We liked the place so little that we were glad to leave it this morn-
ing as soon as we could. For that reason we were all on horseback before
nine, and after riding four miles arrived at the mouth of Sable creek. On
the eastern bank of that creek, six paces from the mouth, and just at the
brink of the river Dan, stands a sugar tree, which is the beginning of my
fine tract of land in Carolina, called the Land of Eden. I caused the initial
letters of my name to be cut on a large poplar and beech near my coi'ner,
for the more easy finding it another time. We then made a beginning of
my survey, directing our course due south from the sugar tree above-
mentioned. In a little way we perceived the creek forked, and the western
branch was wide enough to merit the name of a river. That to the east
was much less, which we intersected with this course. We ran southerly a
mile, and found the land good all the way, only towards the end of it we saw
the trees' destroyed in such a manner that there were hardly any left to-
mark my bounds. Having finished this course, we encamped in a charming
peninsula, formed by the western branch of the creek. It contained about
forty acres of very rich land, gradually descending to the creek, and is a de-
lightful situation for the manor house. My servant had fed so intemperate-
ly upon bear, that it gave him a scouring, and that was followed by the piles,
which made riding worse to him than purgatory. But anointing with the
fat of the same bear, he soon grew easy again.

27th. We were stirring early from this enchanting place, and ran eight
miles of my back line, which tended south eighty-four and a half westerly.
We found the land uneven, but tolerably good, though very thin of trees,
and those that were standing fit for little but fuel and fence-rails. Some
conflagration had efiiectuaily opened the country, and made room for the air

THE LAND OF EDEN. ] J \

to circulate. We crossed both the branches of Lowland creek, and sundry
other rills of fine water. From every eminence we discovered the moun-
tains to the north-west of us, though they seemed to be a long way off.
Here the air felt very refreshing and agreeable to the lungs, having no
swamps or marshes to taint it. Nor was tliis the only good effect it had,
but it likewise made us very hungry, so that we were forced to halt and
pacify our appetites with a frugal repast out of our pockets, which we wash-
ed down with water from a purling stream just by. My knees pained me
very much, though I broke not the laws of travelling by uttering the least
complaint. Measuring and marking spent so much of our time, that we
could advance no fLuther than eight miles, and the chain carriers thought
that a great way. In the evening we took up our quarters in the low-
groundsof the river, which our scouts informed us was but two hundred
yards ahead of us. This was no small surprise, because we had flattered
ourselves that this back line would not have intersected the Dan at all ; but
we found ourselves mistaken, and plainly perceived that it ran more souther-
ly than we imagined, and in all likelihood pierces the mountains where they
form an amphitheatre. The venison here was lean ; and the misfortune was
we met no bear in so open a country, to grease the w-ay and make it slip
down. In the night our sentinel alarmed us with an idle suspicion that he
heard the Indian whistle, (which amongst them is a signal for attacking their
enemies.) This made every one stand manfully to his arms in a moment,
and I found no body more undismayed in this surprise than Mr. Banister ;
but after we had put ourselves in battle array, we discovered this whistle to
be nothing but the nocturnal note of a little harmless bird, that inhabits those
woods. We were glad to find the mistake, and commending the sentinel for
his great vigilance, composed our noble spirits again to rest till the morning.
However, some of the company dreamed of nothing but scalping all the rest
of the night.

28th. We snapped up our breakfast as fast as we could, that we might
have the more leisure to pick our way over a very bad ford across the river.
Though, bad as it was, we all got safe on the other side. We were no sooner
landed, but we found ourselves like to encounter a very rough and almost
impassable thicket. However, we scuffled through it without any dismay or
complaint. This was a copse of young saplings, consisting of oak, hickory
and sassafras, which are the growth of a fertile soil. We gained no more
than two miles in three hours in this perplexed place, and after that had the
pleasure to issue out into opener woods. The land was generally good,
though pretty bare of timber, and particularly we traversed a rich level of at
least two miles. Our whole day's journey amounted not quite to five miles,
by reason we had been so hampered at our first setting out. We were glad
to take up our quarters early in a piece of fine low-grounds, lying about a
mile north of the river. Thus we perceived the river edged away gently to-
wards the south, and never likely to come in the way of our course again.
Nevertheless, the last time we saw it, it kept much the same breadth and
depth that it had where it divided its waters from the Staunton, and in ail
likelihood holds its own quite as high as the mountains.

29th. In measuring a mile and "a half flirther we reached the lower ford
of the Irvin, which iaranches from the Dan about two miles to the south,
south-east of this place. This river was very near threescore yards over,
and in many places pretty deep. From thence, in little more than a mile, we
came to the end of this course, being in length filleon miles and eighty-eight
poles. And so far the land held reasonably good ; but when we came to
run our northern course of three miles, to the place where the country line
intersects the same Irvin higher up. we passed over nothing but stony hills,

112 A JOURNEY TO

and barren grounds, cluthed with little timber, and refreshed with less water.
All my hopes were in the riches that might lie under sround, there being
many goodly tol^ens of mines. The stones which paved the river, both by
their weight and colour, promised abundance of metal ; but whether it be
silver, lead or copper, is beyond our skill to discern. We also discovered
many shows of marble^ of a white ground, with streaks of red and purple.
So that it is possible the treasure in the bowels of the earth may make ample
amends for the poverty of its surface. We encamped on the bank of this
river, a little below the dividing line, and near the lower end of an island
half a mile long, which, for the metallic appearances, we dignified with the
name of Potosi. In our way to this place we treed a bear, of so mighty a
bulk, that when we fetched her down she almost made an earthquake. But
neither the shot nor the fall disabled her so much, but she had like to have
hugged one of our dogs to death in the violence of her embrace. We
exercised the discipline of the woods, by tossing a very careless servant in
a blanket, for losing one of our axes.

30th. This being Sunday, we were glad to rest from our labours ; and, to
help restore our vigour, several of us plunged into the river, notwithstand-
ing it was a frosty morning. One of our Indians went in along with us, and
taught us their way of swimming. They strike not out both hands together,
but alternately one after another, whereby they are able to swim both far-
ther and faster than we do. Near the camp grew several large chestnut
trees very full of chestnuts. Our men were too lazy to climb the trees for
the sake of the fruit, but, like the Indians, chose rather to cut them down, re-
gardless of those that were to come after. Nor did they esteem such kind
of work any breach of the sabbath, so long as it helped to fill their bellies.
One of the Indians sliot a bear, which he lugged about half a mile for the
good of the company. These gentiles have no distinction of days, but make
every day a sabbath, except when they go out to war or a hunting, and
then they will undergo incredible fatigues. Cf other work the inen do none,
thinking it below the dignity of their sex, but make the poor women do all
the drudgery. They have a blind tradition amongst them, that work was
first laid upon mankind by the fault of a female, and therefore it is but just
that sex should do the greatest part of it. This they plead in their excuse ;
but the true reason is, that the weakest must always go to the wall, and
superiority has from the beginning ungenei'ously imposed slavery on those
who are not able to resist it.

October 1. I plunged once more into the river Irvin this morning, for a
small cold I had caught, and was entirely cured by it. We ran the three
mile course from a white oak standing on my corner upon the western bank
of the river, and intersected the place, where we ended the back line exactly,
and fixed that corner at a hickory. We steered south from thence about a
mile, and then came upon the Dan, which thereabouts makes but narrow
low-grounds. We forded it about a mile and a half to the westward of the
place where the Irvin runs into it. Vv'hen we were over, we determined to
ride down the river on that side, and for three miles found the high-land
come close down to it, pretty barren and uneven. But then on a sudden
the scene changed, and we were surprised with an opening of large extent,
where the Sauro Indians once lived, who had been a considerable nation.
But the frequent inroads of the Senecas annoyed them incessantly, and
obliged them to remove from this fine situation about thirty years ago. They
then retired more southerly, as far as Pee Dee river, and incorporated with
the Kewawees, where a remnant of them is still surviving. It must have
been a great misfortune to them to be obliged to abandon so beautiful a
dwelling, where the air is wholesome, and the soil equal in fertility to any in

THE LAND OF EDEN, 113

the world. The river is about eighty yards wide, always confined within
its lofty banks, and rolling down its waters, as sweet as milk, and as clear as
crystal. There runs a charming level, of more than a mile square, that
will bring forth like the lands of Egypt, without being overflowed once a
year. There is scarce a shrub in view to intercept your prospect, but grass
as high as a man on horseback. Towards the woods there is a gentle ascent,
till your sight is intercepted by an eminence, that overlooks the whole land-
scape. This sweet place is bounded to the east by a fine stream, called
Sauro creek, which running out of the Dan, and tending westerly, makes the
whole a peninsula. I could not quit this pleasant situation without regret, but
often faced about to take a parting look at it ns far as I could see, and so in-
deed did all the rest of the company. But at last we left it quite out of sight,
and continued our course down the river, till where it intersects my back
line, which was about five miles below Sauro town. We took up our quar-
ters at the same camp where we had a little before been alarmed with the
Supposed Indian whistle, which we could hardly get out of our heads.
However, it did not spoil our rest ; but we dreamed all night of the deligiits
of Tempe and the Elysian fields.

2d. We awoke early from these innocent dreams, and took our way
along my back line till we came to the corner of it. From thence we slant-
ed to the country line, and kept down that as far as the next fording place of
the river, making in the whole eighteen miles. We breathed all the way in
pure air, which seemed friendly to the lungs, and circulated the blood and
spirits very briskly. Happy will he the people destined for so wholesome a
situation, where they may live to fulness of days, and which is much better
still, with much content and gaiety of heart. On every rising ground we
faced about to take our leave of the mountains, which still showed their
towering heads. The ground was uneven, rising into hills, and sinking
into valleys great part of the way, but the soil was good, abounding in most
places with a greasy black mould. We took up our quarters on the western
bank of the river, where we had forded it at our coming up. One of our
men, Joseph Colson by name, a timorous, lazy fellow, had squandered away
his bread, and grew very uneasy when his own ravening had reduced him
to short allowance. He was one of those drones who love to do little and
eat much, and are never in humour unless their bellies are full. According
to this wrong turn of constitution, when he found he could no longer revel
in plenty, he began to break the rules by complaining and threatening to
desert. This had like to have brought him to the blanket, but his submission
reprieved him. Though bread grew a little scanty with us, we had venison
in abundance, which a true woodsman can eat contentedly without any
bread at all. But bears' f^esh needs something of the farinaceous, to make
it pass easily off the stomach. In the night we heard a dog bark at some
distance, as we thought, when we saw all our own dogs lying about the fire.
This was another alarm ; but we soon discovered it to be a wolf, which will
sometimes bark very like a dog, but something shriller.

od. The fine season continuing, we made the most of it by leaving our
quarters as soon as possible. We began to measuie and mark the l)ounds
of major Mayo's land on the south of the country line. In order to do this
we marched round the bent of the river, but he being obliged to make a
traverse, we could reach no farther than four miles. In the distance of about
a mile from where we lay, we crossed Olirt' creek, which confined its stream
within such high banks that it was difficult to find a }>assage over. Wo
kept close to the river, and two miles farthiM- came to Hive's creek, where
abundance of canes lay dry and prostrate on the ground, having sullered
in the late septennial slaugliter of that vegetable. A mile after that we forded

114 A JOURNEY TO

another stream, which we called Hatcher's creek, from two Imlian traders of
that name, who used formerly to carry goods to the Sauro Indians. Near
the banks of this creek I found a large beech tree, with the following inscrip-
tion cut upon the bark of it, " J. H., H. H., B. B., lay here the 24th ofMa'y, 1673."
It was not difficult to fill up these initials with the following names, Joseph
Hatcher, Henry Hatcher and Benjamin Bullington, three Indian traders, who
had lodged near that place sixty years before, in their way to the Sauro town.
But the strangest part of the story was this, that these letters, cut in the bark,
should remain perfectly legible so long. Nay, if no accident befalls the -tree,
which appears to be ptill in a flourishing condition, I doubt not but this piece
of antiquity may be read many years hence. We may also learn from it,
that the beech is a very long-lived tree, of which there are many exceedingly
large in these woods. The major took in a pretty deal of rich low-ground
into his survey, but unhappily left a greater quantity out, which proves the
weakness of making entries by guess. We found the Dan fordable here-
abouts in most places. One of the Indians shot a wild goose, that was very
lousy, which nevertheless was good meat, and proved those contemptible
tasters to be no bad tasters. However, for those stomachs that were so un-
happy as to be squeamish, there was plenty of fat bear, we having killed two
in this day's march.

4th. I caused the men to use double diligence to assist major Mayo in fix-
ing the bounds of his land, because he had taken a great deal of pains about
mine. We therefore mounted our horses as soon as we had swallowed our
breakfast. Till that is duly performed a woodsman makes a conscience of
exposing himself to any fatigue. We proceeded then in his survey, and
made an end before night, though most of the company were of opinion
the land was hardly worth the trouble. It seemed most of it before below
the character the discovei-ers had given him of it. We fixed his eastern
corner on Cocquade creek, and then continued our march, over the hills and
far away, along the country line two miles farther. Nor had we stopped
there, unless a likelihood of rain had obliged us to encamp on an eminence
where we were in no danger of being overflowed. Peter Jones had a smart
fit of an ague, which shook him severely, though he bore it like a man ; but
the small major had a small fever, and bore it like a child. He groaned as
if he had been in labour, and thought verily it would be his fate to die like
a mutinous Israelite in the wilderness, and be buried under a heap of stones.
The rain was so kind as to give us leisure to secure ourselves against it,
but came however time enough to interrupt our cookery, so that we supped
as temperately as so many philosophers, and kept ourselves snug within
our tents. The worst part of the story was, that the sentinels could hardly
keep our fires from being extinguished by the heaviness of the shower.

oth. Our invalids found themselves in travelling condition this morning,
and began to conceive hopes of returning home and dying in, their own beds.
We pursued our journey through uneven and perplexed woods, and in the
thickest of them had the fortune to knock down a young buffalo, two
years old. Providence threw this vast animal in our way very seasonably,
just as our provisions began to fail us. And it was the more welcome too,
because it was change of diet, which of all varieties, next to that of bed-
fellows, is the most agreeable. We had lived upon venison and bear until
our stomachs loathed them almost as much as the Hebrews of old did their
quails. Our butchers were so unhandy at their business that we grew very
lank before we could get our dinner. But when it came, we found it equal
in goodness to the best beef They made it the longer because they kept
sucking the water out of the guts, in imitation of the Catawba Indians, upon
the belief that it is a great cordial, and will even make them drunk, or at

THE LAND OF EDEN 115

least very gay. We encamped upon Hico river, pretty high up, and had
much ado to get our house in order, before a heavy shower descended upon
us. I was in pain lest our sick men might suffer by the rain, but might have
spared myself the concern, because it had the effect of a cold bath upon
tliem, and drove away their distemper, or rather changed it into a canine
appetite, that devoured all before it. It rained smartly all night long, which
made our situation on the low-ground more fit for otters than men.

6th. We had abundance of drying work this morning alter the clouds
broke away and showed the sun to the happy earth. It was impossible for
us to strike the tents till the afternoon, and then we took our departure, and
made an easy march of four miles to another branch of Hico river, which
we called Jesuit's creek, because it misled us. We lugged as many of the
dainty pieces of the buffalo along with us as our poor horses could carry,
envying the wolves the pleasure of such luxurious diet. Our quarters were
taken upon a delightful eminence, that scornfully overlooked the creek, and
afforded us a dry habitation. We made our supper on the tongue and udder
of the buffalo, which were so good, that a cardinal legate might have made
a comfortable meal upon them during the carnival. Nor was this all, but
we had still a rarer morsel, the bunch rising up between the shoulders of this
animal, which is very tender and very fat. The primings of a young doe,
which one of the men brought to the camp, were slighted amidst these dain-
ties, nor would even our servants be fobbed off with cates so common. The
low-grounds of this creek are wide in many places, and rich, but seem to lie
within reach of every inundation ; and this is commonly the case with most
low-grounds, that lie either on the rivers or on the creeks that run into them.
So great an inconvenience lessens their value very much, and makes high-
land, that is just tolerable, of greater advantage to the owner. There he will
be more likely to reap the fruits of his industry every year, and not run the
risk, after all his toil, to see the sweat of his brow carried down the stream,
and perhaps many of his cattle drowned into the bargain. Perhaps in times
to come people may bank their low-grounds as they do in Europe, to confine
the water within its natural bounds to prevent these inconveniences.

7th. The scarcity of bread, joined to tiie impatience of some of our com-
pany, laid us under a kind of necessity to hasten our return home. For
that reason we thought we might be excused for making a sabbath day's
journey of about five miles, as far as our old camp upon Sugar Tree creek.
On our way we forded Buffalo creek, which also empties its waters into Hico
river. The woods we rode thi-ough were open, and the soil very promising,
great part thereof being low-grounds, full of tall and large trees. A she
bear had the ill luck to cross our way, which was large enough to afford
us several luxurious meals. I paid for violating the sabbath by losing a pair
of gold buttons. I pitched my tent on tlie very spot I had done when we
ran the dividing line between Virginia and Carolina. The beech whose
bark recorded the names of the Carolina commissioners was still standing,
and we did them the justice to add to their names a sketch of their characters.
We got our house in order time enough to walk about and make some slight
observations. There were sugar trees innumerable growing in the low-
grounds of this creek, from which it received its name. They were many of
them as tall as largo hickories, with trunks from fifteen to twenty inches
through. The woodpeckeis, for the pleasure of the sweet juice which these
trees yield, pierce the bark in many i)laces, and do great ilaraage, though the
trees live a great while under all these wounds. There grows an inliniu*
quantity of inaidenhair, which seems to delight most in rich grounds. The
sorrel tre(> is frequent there, whose leaves, brewed in beer, are good in drop-
sies, green-sickness, and cachexies. We also saw in tills place abundanct-

J ]Q A JOURNEY TO

of papaw trees, the wood whereof the Indians make very di y on purpose to
rub fire out of it. Tlieir method of dohig it is this : they liold one of these
dry sticks in eacli hand, and by rubbinsr tliem hard and quick together, rarify
the air in such a manner as to fetch fire in ten minutes. \ Whenever they
offer any sacrifice to their God, they look upon it as a profanation to make
use of fire ah*eady kindled, but produce fresh virgin fire for that purpose,
by rubbing two of these sticks together that never had been used before on
any occasion.

8th. After fortifying ourself with a bear breakfast, major Maj'o took what
help he thought necessary, and began to survey the land, with which the
commissioners of C'Errolina had presented him upon this creek. After running
the bounds, the major was a little disappointed in the goodness of the land,
but as it had cost him nothing it could be no bad pennyworth, as his upper
tract really was. While that business was carrying on, I took my old friend
and fellow traveller, Tom Wilson, and went to view the land I had entered
for upon this creek, on the north of the country line. We rode down the
stream about six miles, crossing it sundiy times, and found very wide low
grounds on both sides of it, only w^e observed, wherever the low-gi'ounds
were broad on one side the creek, they were narrow on the other. The
highlands we were obliged to pass over were very good, and in some
places descended so gradually to the edge of the low-grounds, that they
formed very agreeable prospects and pleasant situations for building. About
four miles from the line, Sugar Tree creek emptied itself into the Hico, which
with that addition swelled into a fine river. In this space we saw the most,
and most promising good land we had met with in all our travels. In our
way w^e siiot a doe, but she not falling immediately, we had lost our game had
not the ravens, by their croaking, conducted us to the thicket where she fell.
We plunged tlie carcass of the deer into the water, to secure it from these
ominous birds till we returned, but an iiour afterwards were surprised with
the sight of a wolf which had been fishing for it, and devoured one side. We
knocked down an ancient she bear that had no flesh upon her bones, so
we left it to the free-booters of the forest. In coming back to tlie camp we
discovered a solitary bull buffalo, which boldly stood his ground, contrary to
the custom of that shy animal, w^e spared his life, from a principle of never
slaughtering an innocent creature to no purpose. However, we made our-
selves some diversion, by trying if he would face our dogs. He was so far
from retreating at their approach, that he ran at them with great fierceness,
cocking up his ridiculous little tail, and grunting like a hog. The dogs in the
mean time only played about him, not venturing within reach of his horns, and
by their nimbleness came off with a whole skin. All these adventures we
related at our return to the camp, and what was more to the purpose, we
carried to them the side of venison which the wolf had vouchsafed to leave
us. After we had composed ourselves to rest, our horses ran up to our camp
as fast as their hobbles would let them. This was to some of us a certain
argument that Indians were near, whose scent the horses can no more en-
dure than they can their figures ; though it was more likely they had been
scared by a panther or some other wild beast, the glaring of whose eyes are
very terrifying to them in a dark night.

9th. Major Mayo's survey being no more than half done, we wei'e obliged
to amuse ourselves another day in this place. And that the time might not
be quite lost, we put our garments and baggage into good repair. I for my
part never spent a day so well during the whole voyage. 1 had an imperti-
nent tooth in my upper jaw, that had been loose for some time, and made me
chew with great caution. Particularly 1 could not grind a biscuit but with
much deliberation and presence of mind. Tooth-drawers we had none

THE LAND OF EDEN. WJ

amongst us, nor any of the instruments they make use of. However, inven«
tion supplied this want very happily, and I contrived to get rid of this trou-
blesome companion by cutting a caper. I caused a twine to be fastened
round the root of my tooth, about a fathom in length, and then tied the other
end to the snag of a log that lay upon the ground, in such a manner that
I could just stand upright. Having adjusted my string in this manner, I
bent my knees enough to enable me to spring vigorously off the ground, as
perpendicularly as I could. The force of the leap drew out the tooth with-
so much ease that I felt nothing of it, nor should have believed it was come
away, unless I had seen it dangling at the end of the string. An under tooth
may be fetched out by standing olT the ground and fastening your string at
due distance above you. And having so fixed your gear, jump off your
standing, and the weight of your body, added to the force of the spring, will
prize out your tooth with less pain than any operator upon earth could draw
it. This new way of tooth-drawing, being so silently and deliberately per-
formed, both surprised and delighted all that were present, who could not
guess what I was going about. I immediately found the benefit of getting rid
of this troublesome companion, by eating my supper with more comfort than-
I had done during the whole expedition.

10th. In the morning we made an end of our bread, and all the rest of
our provision, so that now we began to travel pretty light. All the company
were Avitnesses how good the land was upon Sugar Tree creek, because we
rode down it four miles, till it fell into Hico river. Then we directed our
course over the highland, thinking to shorten our way to Tom Wilson's
quarter. Nevertheless, it was our fortune to fall upon the Hico again, and
then kept within sight of it several miles together, till we came near the
mouth. Its banks were high and full of precipices on the east side, but it
afforded some low-grounds on the west. Within two miles of the mouth
are good shows of copper mines, as Harry Morris told me, but we saw no-
thing of them. It runs into the Dan just below a large fall, but the chain of
rocks does not reach quite aci'oss the river, to intercept the navigation. About
a mile below lives Aaron Pinston, at a quarter belonging to Thomas Wilson,
upon Tewahominy creek. This man is the highest inhabitant on the south
side of the Dan, and yet reckons himself perfectly safe from danger. And
if the bears, wolves, and panthers were as harmless as the Indians, his stock
might be so too. Tom Wilson offered to knock down a steer for us, but I
would by no means accept of his generosity. However, we were glad of a
few of his peas and potatoes, and some rashers of his baf on, upon which
we made good cheer. This plantation lies about a mile from the mouth of
Tewahominy, and about the same distance from the mouth of Hico river,
and contains a good piece of land. The edifice was only a log house, af-
fording a very free passage for the air through every part of it, nor was the
cleanliness of it any temptation to lie out of our tents, so we encamped once
more, for the last time, in the open field.

11th. I tipped our landlady with what I imagined a full reward for the
trouble we had given her, and then mounted our horses, which pricked up
their ears after the two meals they had eaten of corn. In the distance of
about a mile we reached the Dan, which we forded with some difficulty into
the fork. The water was pretty high in the river, and the current some-
thing rapid, nevertheless all (he company got over safe, with only a little
water in their boots. Afti^r traversing the fork, which was there at least two
good miles across, we forded the Staunton into a little island, and then the
narrow branch of the same to the main land. We took major Mumford's
tenant in our way, where we moisteni^l our throats witli a little milk, and
(hen proceeded in good order to Blue Stone Castle. My landlady received

118

A JOURNEY TO

US with a grim sort of a welcome, which I did not expect, since I brought
her husband back in good health, though perhaps that might be the reason.
It is sure something or other did tease her, and she was a female of too strong
passions to know how to dissemble. However, she was so civil as to get us
a good dinner, which I was the better pleased with because Col. Cock and
Mr. Mumford came time enough to partake of it. The colonel had been sur-
veying land in these parts, and particularly that on which Mr. Stith's copper
mine lies, as likewise a tract on which Cornelius Cargill has fine appearances.
He had but a poor opinion of Mr. Stith's mine, foretelling it would be all
labour in vain, but thought something better of Mr. Cargill's. After dinner
these gentlemen took their leaves, and at the same time I discharged two of
of my fellow travellers, Thomas Wilson and Joseph Colson, after having
made their hearts merry, and giving each of them a piece of gold to rub
their eyes with. We now returned to that evil custom of lying in a house,
and an evil one it is, when ten or a dozen people are forced to pig together
in a room, as we did, and were troubled with the squalling of peevish, dirty
children into the bargain.

12th. We ate our fill of potatoes and milk, which seems delicious fare
to those who have made a campaign in the woods. I then took my fii'st
minister, Harry Morris, up the hill, and marked out the place where Blue
Stone Castle was to stand, and overlook the adjacent country. After that I
put my friend in mind of many things he had done amiss, which he promised
faithfully to reform. I was so much an infidel to his fair speeches, (having
been many times deceived by them,) that I was forced to threaten him with
my highest displeasure, unless he mended his conduct very much. I also
let him know, that he was not only to correct his own errors, but likewise
those of his wife, since the power certainly belonged to him, in virtue of his
conjugal authority. He scratched his head at this last admonition, from
whence I inferred that the gray mare was the better horse. We gave our
heavy baggage two hours' start, and about noon followed them, and in twelve
miles reached John Butcher's, calluig by the way for master Mumford, in
order to take him along with us. Mr. Butcher received us kindly, and we
had a true Roanoke entertainment of pork upon pork, and pork again upon
that. He told us he had been one of the first seated in that remote part of
the country, and in the beginning had been forced, like the great Nebuchad-
nezzar, to live a considerable time upon grass. This honest man set a mighty
value on the mine he fancied he had in his pasture, and showed us some of
the ore, which l%e was made to believe was a gray copper, and would cer-
tainly make his fortune. But there is a bad distemper rages in those parts,
that grows very epidemical. The people are all mine mad, and neglecting
to make corn, starve their families in hopes to live in great plenty hereafter.
Mr. Stith was the first that was seized with the frenzy, and has spread the
contagion far and near. As you ride along the woods, you see all the large
stones knocked to pieces, nor can a poor marcasite rest quietly in its bed for
these curious inquu'ers. Our conversation ran altogether upon this darling
subject, until the hour came for our lying in bulk together.

13th. After breaking our fast with a sea of milk and potatoes, we took
our leave, and I crossed my landlady's hand with a piece of money. She
refused the offer at first, but, like a true woman, accepted of it when it was
put home to her. She told me the utmost she was able to do for me was a
trifle in comparison of some favour I had formerly done her ; but what that
favour was, neither I could recollect, nor did she think proper to explain.
Though it threatened rain, we proceeded on our journey, and jogged on in
the new road for twenty miles, that, is as far as it was cleared at that time,
and found it would soon come to be a very good one after it was well

THE LAND OF EDEN. 1 19

grubbed. About nine miles from John Butcher's, we crossed Allen's creek,
four miles above Mr. Stith s mine. Near the mouth of this creek is a good
body of rich land, whereof Occaneeche neck is a part. It was entered for
many years ago by Col. Hai'rison and Col. Allen, but to this day is held
without patent or improvement. And they say Mr. Boiling does the same,
with a thousand acres lying below John Butcher's. After beating the new
road for twenty miles, we struck off towards Meherrin, which we reached
in eight miles farther, and then came to the plantation of Joshua Nicholson,.
where Daniel Taylor lives for halves. There was a poor dirty house, with
hardly any thing in it but children, that wallowed about like so many pigs.
It is a common case in this part of the country, that people live worse upon
gQod land ; and the more they are befriended by the soil and the climate,
the less they will do for themselves. This man was an instance of it, for
though his plantation would make plentiful returns for a little industry, yet
he wanting that, wanted every thing. The woman did all that was done in
the family, and the few garments they had to cover their dirty hides were
owing to her industry. We could have no supplies from such neighbours as
these, but depended on our own knapsacks, in which we had some remnants
of cold fowls that we brought from Blue Stone Castle. When my house
was in order, the whole family came and admired it, as much as if it had been
the grand vizier's tent in the Turkish army.

14th. The sabbath was now come round again, and although our horses
would have been glad to take the benefit of it, yet we determined to make
a Sunday's journey to Brunswick church, which lay about eight miles off.
Though our landlord could do little for us, nevertheless, we did him all the
good we were able, by bleeding his sick negro, and giving him a dose of
Indian physic. We got to church in decent time, and Mr. Betty, the parson
of the parish, entertained us with a good honest sermon, but whether he
bought it, or borrowed it, would have been uncivil in us to inquire. Be that
as it will, he is a decent man, with a double chin that sits gracefully over his
band, and his parish, especially the female part of it, like him well. We were
not crowded at church, though it was a new thing in that remote part of the
country. What women happened to be there, were very gim and tidy in
the work of their own hands, which made them look tempting in the eyes of
us foresters. When church was done, we refreshed our teacher with a glass
of wine, and then receiving his blessing, took horse and directed our course
to major Embry's. The distance thither was reputed fifteen miles, but ap-
peared less by the company of a nymph of those woods, whom innocence,
and wholesome flesh and blood made very alluring. In our way we crossed
Sturgeon creek and Q,ueocky creek, but at our journey's end were so unlucky
as not to find either master or mistress at home. However, after two hours
of hungry expectation, the good woman luckily found her way home, and
provided very hospitably for us. As for the major, he had profited so nuich
by my prescription, as to make a journey to Williamsburg, which required
pretty good health, the distance being little short of one hundred miles.

15th. After our bounteous landlady had cherished us with roast beef and
chicken-pie, we thankfully took leave. At the same time we separated from
our good friend and fellow traveller, major Mayo, who steered directly home.
He is certainly a very useful, as well as an agreeable companion in the
woods, being ever cheerful and good-humoured, under all the little crosses,
disasters, and disappointments of that rambling life. As many of us as re-
mained jogged on together to Sapponi chapel, where I thanked major Mum-
ford and Peter Jones for the trouble that they had taken in this long journey.
That ceremony being duly performed, 1 Hied oil with my honest friend, Mr.
Banister, to hit. habitation on Hatcher's run, which lay about fburteeen miles

120 A JOURNEY TO

from the chapel above-mentioned. His good-humoured httle wife was glad
to see her runaway spouse returned in safety, and treated us kindly. It was
no small pleasure to me, that my worthy friend found his family in good
health, and his affairs hi good order. He came into this ramble so frankly,
that I should have been sorry if he had been a sufferer by it. In tiie gaiety
of our hearts we drank our bottle a little too freely, which had an unusual
effect on persons so long accustomed to simple element. We were both
of us raised out of our beds in the same manner, and near the same time,
which was a fair proof that people who breath the same air, and are engaged
in the same way of living, wUl be very apt to fall into the same indispositions.
And this may explain why distempers sometimes go round a family, without
any reason to believe they are infectious, accordmg to the superstition of tlje
vulgar.

16th, After pouring down a basin of chocolate, I wished peace to that
house, and departed. As long as Mr. Banister had been absent from his
family, he was yet so kind as to conduct me to major Mumford's, and which
was more, his wife very obligmgly consented to it. The major seemed over-
joyed at his being returned safe and sound from the perils of the woods,
though his satisfaction had some check from the change his pretty wife had
suffered in her complexion. The vermilion of her cheeks had given place a
little to the saffron, by means of a small tincture of the yellow jaundice. I
was sorry to see so fair a flower thus faded, and recommended the best re-
medy I could think of After a refreshment of about an hour, we went on to
Col. Boiling's, who was so gracious as to .send us an invitation. As much in
haste as I was to return to my family, I spent an hour or two at that place,
but could by no means be persuaded to stay dinner, nor could even madam
de Graflfenriedt's smiles on one side of her face shake my resolution. From
thence we proceeded to Col. Mumford's, who seemed to have taken a new
lease, were any dependence to be upon looks, or any indulgence allowed to
the wishes of his friends. An honester a man, a fairer trader, or a kuider
friend, this country never produced : God send any of his sons may have the
grace to take after him. We took a running repast with this good man,
and then bidding adieu both to him and Mr. Banister, I mounted once more,
and obstinately pursued my journey home, though the clouds threatened, and
the heavens looked very lowering. I had not passed the court-house before it
began to pour down like a spout upon me. Nevertheless, I pushed forward
with vigour, and got dripping wet before I could reach Merchant's Hope Point.
My boat v/as there luckily waiting for me, and wafted me safe over. And
the joy of meeting my family in health made me in a moment forget all the
fatigues of the journey, as much as if I had been husquenawed. However,
the good Providence that attended me, and my whole company, will I hope
stick fast in my memory, and make me everlastingly thankfiil.

-1 list of our Company of alt sorts.

Myself, Thomas Wilson, Lawson,

Major Mayo, Joseph Colson. Three Indians,

Major Mumford, Harry Morris. Three negroes.

Mr. Banister, Bobert BoUmg, Twenty horses.

Mr. Jones, Thomas Hooper, Four dogs.

THE LAND OF EDEN.

]21

My plat of twenty thousand aeres in North Carolina. Surveyed in Septem-
ber, 1733, by Mr, Mayo, being Jifteen miles long, three broad at the west end,
and one at the cast.

Virginia.

North Carolina.

a. Cascade creek.

Lowland creek.
Sauro creek.

c. Kishan branch.
° Sauro town.

d. Sable creek.

An account of the distances of places.

From Westover to Col. Mumford's,

From Col. Mumford's to major Mumford's, -

From thence to Sapponi chapel,

From thence to major Embry's on Nottoway,

From thence to Brunswick court-house, -

From thence to Meherrin river, ...

From thence to the ford on Roanoke,

From thence to Col. Stith's copper mine,

From thence to Butcher's creek, -

From thence to Blue Stone Castle, -

From thence to the ford into tlie fork, -

From thence to Birche's creek, . . .

From thence to Banister river, - -

From thence to Morris creek, - - - .

From thence to the* Med way,

Prom thence to Maostie creek.

From hence to Fork creek,

From hence to Peter's creek, - . . .

From hence to Jones' creek.

From lience to the first ford over the Dan,

From iicn(;e to Cane creek.

From hence to the second lord of tlie Dan,

From hence to the moulh of Sable creek.

From hence to the south-easl corner of my land,

From thence to the Dan on my back line,

From IheiKc to the Irvin on my back iuic,

10 miles.

6
20
10
15

8
12
20

6
12

7

5

6

3
14

2

6

2

2

«
I

8
G

122 A JOURNEY, &c.

From thence to my south-west corner, .... i miie.

From thence to my corner on the west of the Irvin, ... 3

From thence to tlie Dan along my upper-Hne, - - - 4^

212

From thence to the mouth of the Irvin, 1^

From thence to Sauro creek, 2^

From thence to wiiere my back-line crosses the Dan, - - 5

From thence to my south-east corner, 8

From thence to Ciiff creek, 10

From thence to Hixe's creek, 2

From thence to Hatcher's creek, 1

From thence to Cocquade creek, 5

From thence to the upper ford of Ilico river, .... 7

From thence to Jesuit's creek, 4

From thence to where the hne cuts Sugar Tree creek, - - 5

From thence to the mouth of Sugar Tree creek, - - - 4

From thence to the mouth of Hico river, 7

From thence to Wilson's quarter on Tewahominy creek, - 1

From thence to the Dan, 1

From thence across' tlie fork to the Staunton, . . . 2

From thence to Blue Stone Castle, 7

From thence to Sandy creek, 5

From thence to Mr. Mumford's plantation, - ... 2

From thence to Butcher's creek, 5

From thence to Allen's creek, 9

From thence to Joshua Nicholson's on Meherrin, - . - 18

From thence to Brunswick court-house, 8

From thence to Nottoway bridge, I4

From thence to Sapponi Chapel, 10

From thence to Mr. Banister's on Hatcher's run, - - - 12

From thence to Col. Boiling's plantation, 9

From thence to Col. Mumford's plantation, .... 5

From thence to Westover, I5

184

PROGRESS TO THE MINES,

IN THE YEAR 1732.

September 18th. For the pleasure of the good company of Mrs. Byrd,
and her little governor, my son, I went about half way to the falls in the
chariot. There we halted, not far from a purling stream, and upon the
stump of a propagate oak picked the bones of a piece of roast beef By
the spirit which that gave me, I was the better able to part with the dear
companions of my travels, and to perform the rest of my journey on horse-
back by myself I reached Shacco's before two o'clock, and crossed the
river to the mills. I had the grief to find them both stand as still, for the want
of water, as a dead woman's tongue, for want of breath. It had rained
so little for many weeks above the falls, that the Naiades had hardly water
enough left to wash their faces. However, as we ought to turn all our mis-
fortunes to the best advantage, I directed Mr. Booker, my first minister
there, to make use of the lowness of the water for blowing up the rocks at
the mouth of the canal. For that purpose I ordered iron drills to be made
about two feet long, pointed with steel, chisel fashion, in order to make
holes, into which we put our cartridges of powder, containing each about three
ounces. There wanted skill among my engineers to choose the best parts of
the stone for boring, that we might blow to the most advantage. They
made all their holes quite perpendicular, whereas they should have humoured
the grain of the stone for the more effectual execution. I ordered the points
of the drills to be made chisel way, rather than the diamond, that they might
need to be seldomer repaired, though in stone the diamond points would
make the most despatch. The water now flowed out of the river so slowly,
that the miller was obliged to pond it up in the canal, by setting open the
flood-gates at the mouth, and shutting those close at the mill. By this con-
trivance, he was able at any time to grind two or three bushels, cither for his
choice customers, or for the use of my plantations. Then I walked to the
place where they broke the flax, which is wrought witli much greater ease
than the hemp, and is much better for spinning. From thence I paid a visit
to the weaver, who needed a little of Minerva's inspiration to make the most
of a piece of cloth. Then I looked in upon my Caledonian spinster, who was
mended more in her looks than in her humour. However, she promised
much, though at the same time intended to perform little. She is too liigli-
spirited for Mr. Booker, who hates to have his sweet temper rufl^ed, and will
rather sufler matters to go a little wrong sometimes, than give his
righteous spirit any uneasiness. He is very honest, and would make an
admirable overseer where servants will do as they are bid. But eye-servants,
who want abundance of overlooking, are not so proper to be committed to
his care. I found myself out of order, and for that reason retired early; yet
with all this precaution had a gentle fever in the night, but towards morning
nature set open all her gates, and drove it out in a plentiful perspiration.

124 PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

19th. The v/orst of this fever was, that it put me to the necessity of
taking anotlier ounce of bark. I moistened every dose with a little brandy,
and filled the glass up with water, which is the least nauseous way of taking
this popish medicine, and besides hinders it from purging. After I had
swallowed a few poached eggs, we rode down to the mouth of the canal, and
from thence crossed over to the broad rock island in a canoe. Our errand
was to view some iron ore, which we dug up in two places. That on the
surface seemed very spongy and poor, which gave us no great encourage-
ment to search deeper, nor did the quantity appear to be very great. How-
ever, for my greater satisfaction, I ordered a hand to dig there for some time
this winter. We walked from one end of the island to the other, being about
half a mile in length, and found the soil very good, and too high for any flood,
less than that of Deucalion, to do the least damage. There is a very wild
prospect both upward and downward, the river being full of rocks, over
which the stream tumbled with a murmur, loud enough to drown the notes
of a scolding wife. This island would make an agreeable hermitage for any
good Christian, who had a mind to retire from the" world. Mr. Booker told
me how Dr. Ireton had cured him once of a looseness, which had been upon
him two whole years. He ordered him a dose of rhubarb, with directions to
take twenty-five drops of laudanum so soon as he had had two physical
stools. Then he rested one day, and the next he ordered him another dose
of the same quantity of laudanum to be taken, also after the second stool.
When this was done, he finished the cure by giving him twenty drops of
laudanum every night for five nights running. The doctor insisted upon the
necessity of stopping the operation of the rhubarb before it worked quite off,
that what remained behind might strengthen the bowels. I was punctual in
swallowing my bark, and that I might use exercise upon it, rode to Prince's
Folly, and my Lord's islands, where I saw very fine corn. In the mean time
Vulcan came in order to make the drills for boring the rocks, and gave
me his parole he would, by the grace of God, attend the works till they were
finished, which he performed as lamely as if he had been to labour for a
dead horse, and not for ready money. I made a North Carolina dinner upon
fresh pork, though we had a plate of green peas after it, by way of desert, for
the safety of our noses. Then my first minister and I had some serious con-
versation about my affairs, and I find nothing disturbed his peaceable spii'it
so much as the misbehavior of the spinster above-mentioned. I told him I
could not pity a man, who had it always in his power to do himself and her
justice, and would not. If she were a drunkard, a scold, a thief, or a slander-
er, we had wholesome laws, that would make her back smart for the diver-
sion of her other members, and it was his fault he had not put those whole-
some severities in execution. I retired in decent time to my own apartment,
and slept very comfortably upon my bark, forgetting all the little crosses
arising from overseers and negroes.

20th. I continued the bark, and then tossed down my poached eggs, with as
much ease as some good breeders slip children into tihe world. About nine
I left the prudentest orders I could think of with my vizier, and then crossed
the river to Shacco's. I made a running visit to three of my quarters, where,
besides finding all the people well, I had the pleasure to see better crops than
usual both of corn and tobacco. I parted there with my intendant, and pur-
sued my journey to Mr. Randolph's, at Tuckahoe, without meeting with any
adventure by the way. Here I found Mrs. Fleming, who was packing up
her baggage with design to follow her husband the next day, who was gone
to a new settlement in Goochland. Both he and she have been about seven
years persuading themselves to remove to that retired part of the country,
though they had the two strong arguments of health and interest for so doing.

PROGRESS TO THEi|MINES. 125

The widow smiled graciously upon me, and entertained me very handsomely.
Here 1 learned all the tragical story of her daughter's humble marriage with
her uncle's overseer. Besides the meanness of this mortal's aspect, the man
has not one visible qualification, except impudence, to recommend him to a
female's inclinations. But there is sometimes such a charm in that Hibernian
endowment, that frail woman cannot withstand it, though it stand alone
without any other recommendation. Had she run away with a gentleman
or a pretty fellow, there might have been some excuse for her, though he
were of inferior fortune : but to stoop to a dirty plebeian, without any kind
of merit, is the lowest prostitution. I found the family justl}'' enraged at it;
and though I had more good nature than to join in her condemnation, yet I
could devise no excuse for so senseless a prank as this young gentlewoman had
played. Here good drink was more scarce than good victuals, the family
being reduced to the last bottle of wine, which was therefore husbanded very
carefully. But the water was excellent. The . heir of the family did not
come home till late in the evening. He is a pretty young man, but had the
misfortune to become his own master too soon. This puts young fellows
upon wrong pursuits, before they have sense to judge rightly for themselves.
Though at the same time they have a .strange conceit of their own sufficiency,
when they grow near twenty years old, especially if they happen to have a
small smattering of learning. It is then they fancy themselves wiser than
all their tutors and governors, which makes them headstrong to all advice,
and above all reproof and admonition.

2 1 St. I was sorry in the morning to find myself stopped in my career by
bad weather brought upon us by a north-east wind. This drives a world
of raw unkindly vapours upon us from Newfoundland, laden with blight,
coughs, and pleurisies. However, I complained not, lest I might be sus-
pected to be tired of the good company. Though Mrs. Fleming was not
so much upon her guard, but mutinied strongly at the rain, that hindered
her from pursuing her dear husband. I said what I could to comfort a gen-
tlewoman under so sad a disappointment. I told her a husband, that stayed
so much at home as her's did, could be no such violent rarity, as for a wo-
man to venture her precious health, to go daggling through the rain after
him, or to be miserable if she happened to be prevented. That it was
prudent for married people to fast sometimes from one another, that they
might come together again with the better stomach. That the best things in
this world, if constantly used, are apt to be cloying, which a little absence
and abstinence would prevent. This was strange doctrine to a fond female,
who fancies people should love with as little reason after marriage as before.
In the afternoon monsieur Marij, the minister of the parish, came to make me
a visit. He had been a Romish priest, but found reasons, either spiritual or
temporal, to quit that gay religion. The fault of this new convert is, that he
looks for as much respect from his protestant Hock, as is paid to the popish
clergy, which our ill-bred Ilugonots do not understand. Madam Marij, had
so much curiosity as to want to com.e too ; but another horse was wanting,
and she believed it would have too vulgar an air to ride behind her husband.
This woman was of the true exchange breed, full of discourse, but void of
discretion, and married a parson, with the idle hojies he might some time or
other come to be his grace of Canterbury. The gray mare is the better
horse in that family, and the poor man submits to her wild vagaries for peace'
sake. She has just enough of the fine lady, to run in debt, and be of no
signification in her household. And the only thing that can prevent her
from undoing her loving husband will be, that nobody will trust them beyond
the sixteen tliousnnd,* which is soon run out in a CJoorhland store. The

* Sixteen lliousand pound.i oi tobacco wa;- the li'gal salary of a niinisler — En.
R

12*6 PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

way of dealing there is, for some small merchant or pedler to buy a Scots
pennyworth of goods, and clap one hundred and filty per cent, upon that.
At this rate the parson cannot be paid much more for his preaching than it
is worth. No sooner was our visiter retired, but the facetious widow was
so kind as to let me into all this secret history, but was at the same time
exceedingly sorry that the woman should be so indiscreet, and the man so
tame as to be governed by an unprofitable and fantastical wife.

22d. We had another wet day, to try both Mrs. Fleming's patience and
my good breeding. The north-east wind commonly sticks by us three or
four days, filling the atmosphere with damps, injurious both to man and
beast. The worst of it was, we had no good liquor to warm our blood, and
fortify our spirits against so strong a malignity. However, I was cheerful
under all these misfortunes, and expressed no concern but a decent fear lest
my long visit might be troublesome. Since I was like to have thus much
leisure, I endeavoured to find out what subject a dull married man could
introduce that might best bring the widow to the use of her tongue. At
length I discovered she was a notable quack, and therefore paid that regard
to her knowledge, as to put some questions to her about the bad distemper
that raged then in the country. I mean the bloody flux, that was brought
us in the negro-ship consigned to Col. Braxton. She told me she made use
of very simple remedies in that case, with very good success. She did the
business either with hartshorn drink, that had plantain leaves boiled in it,
or else with a strong decoction of St. Andrew's cross, in new milk instead
of water. I agreed with her that those remedies might be very good, but
would be more effectual after a dose or two of Indian physic. But for fear
this conversation might be too grave for a widow, I turned the discourse,
and began to talk of plays, and finding her taste lay most towards comedy,
I offered my service to read one to her, which she kindly accepted. She
produced the second part of the Beggar's Opera, which had diverted the
town for forty nights successively, and gained four thousand pounds to the
author. This was not owing altogether to the wit or humour that spark-
led in it, but to some political reflections, that seemed to hit the minis-
try. But the great advantage of the author was, that his interest was so-
licited by the dutchess of Q,ueensbury, which no man could refuse who had
but half an eye in his head, or half a guinea in his pocket. Her grace, like
death, spared nobody, but even took my lord Selkirk in for two guineas, to
repair which extravagance he lived upon Scots herrings two months after-
wards. But the best story was, she made a very smart officer in his majes-
ty's guards give her a guinea, who swearing at the same time it was all he
had in the world, she sent him fifty for it the next day, to reward his obe-
dience. After having acquainted my company with the history of the play,
I read three acts of it, and left Mrs. Fleming and Mr. Randolph to finish it,
who read as well as most actors do at a rehearsal. Thus we killed the time,
and triumphed over the bad weath<=^r.

28d. The clouds continued to drive from the north-east, and to menace us
With more rain. But as the lady resolved to venture through it, I thought it
a shame for me to venture to flinch. Therefore, after fortifying myself with
two capacious dishes of cofiee, and making my compliments to the ladies,
I mounted, and Mr. Randolph was so kind as to be my guide. At the dis-
tance of about three miles, in a path as narrow as that which leads to heaven,
but much more dirty, we reached the homely dwelling of the reverend Mr.
Marij. His land is much more barren than his wife, and needs all Mr.
Bradley's skill in agriculture to make it bring corn. Thence we proceeded
five miles farther, to a mill of Mr. Randolph's, that is apt to stand still when
there falls but little rain, and to be carried away when there falls a great
deal. Then we pursued a very blind path four miles farther, which ^puz-

PROGRESS TO THE MINES. J27

7.1ed my guide, who I suspect led me out of the way. At length we came
into a great road, where he took leave, after giving me some very confused
directions, and so left me to blunder out the rest of the journey by myself.
I lost myself more than once, but soon recovered the right w^ay again. About
three miles after quitting my guide, I passed the south branch of Pamunky
river, near fifty yards over, and full of stones. After this, I had eight miles
to Mr. Chiswell's, where I arrived about two o'clock, and saved my dinner.
I was very handsomely entertained, finding every thing very clean, and very
good. I had not seen Mrs. Chiswell in twenty-four years, which, alas ! had
made great havoc with her pretty face, and ploughed very deep furrows in
her fair skin. It was impossible to know her again, so much the flower was
faded. However, though she was grown an old woman, yet she was one
of those absolute rarities, a very good old woman. I found Mr. Chiswell a
sensible, well-bred man, and very frank in communicating his knowledge in
the mystery of making iron, wherein he has had long experience. I told
him I was come to spy the land, and inform myself of the expense of
carrying on an iron work with effect. That I sought my instruction from
him, who understood the whole mystery, having gained full experience in
every part of it ; only I was very sorry he had bought that experience so
dear. He answered that he would, with great sincerity, let me into the little
knowledge he had, and so we immediately entered upon the business. He
assured me the first step I was to take was to acquaint myself fully with
the quantity and quality of my ore. For that reason I ought to keep a good
pick-axe man at work a whole year to search if there be a sufficient quantity,
without which it would be a very rash undertaking. That I should also
have a skilful person to try the richness of the ore. Nor is it great advan-
tage to have it exceeding rich, because then it will yield brittle iron, which
is not valuable. But the way to have it tough is to mix poor ore and rich
together, wliich makes the poorer sort extremely necessary for the produc-
tion of the best iron. Then he showed me a sample of the richest ore they
have in England, which yields a full moiety of iron. It was of a pale red
colour, smooth and greasy, and not exceedingly heavy ; but it produced so
brittle a metal, that they were obliged to melt a poorer ore along with it.
He told me, after I was certain my ore was good and plentiful enough, my
next inquiry ought to be, how far it lies from a stream proper to build a
furnace upon, and again what distance that furnace will be from water car-
riage; because the charge of carting a great way is very heavy, and eats
out a great part of the profit. That this was the misfortune of the mines of
Fredericksville, where they were obliged to cart the ore a mile to the furnace,
and after it was run into iron, to carry that twenty-four miles, over an uneven
road to Rappahannock river, about a mile below Fredericksburg, to a planta-
tion the company rented of Col. Page. If I were satisfied with the situation,
I was in the next place to consider whether I had woodland enough near
the furnace to supply it with charcoal, whereof it would require a prodigious
quantity. That the properest wood for that purpose was that of oily kind,
such as pine, walnut, Jiickory, oak, and in short all that yields cones, nuts,
or acorns. That two miles square of wood, would supply a moderate fur-
nace; so that wiiat you fell first may have time to grow up again to a pro-
per bigness (which nuist be four inches over) l)y that time the rest is cut
down. He told me farther, that one hundred and twenty slaves, including wo-
men, were necessary to carry on all the business of an iron work, and the
more Virginians amongst them the better; though in that number he com-
prehended carters, colliers, and those that planted the corn. That if there
should be much carting, it wouKl require one thousand six hundred barrels
of corn yearly to support the people, and the cattle employed; nor docs even

123 PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

that quantity suffice at Fredericksville. That if all these circumstances
should happily concur, and j'^ou could procure honest colliers and firemen,
which will be difficult to do, you may easily run eight hundred tons of sow
iron a year. The whole charge of freight, custom, commission, and other
expenses in England, will not exceed thirty shiUings a ton, and it will com-
monly sell for six pounds, and then the clear profit will amount to four
pounds and ten shillings. So that allowing the ten shillings for accidents,
you may reasonably expect a clear profit of four pounds, which being multi-
plied by eight hundred, will amount to three thousand two hundred pounds a
year, to pay you for your land and negroes. But then it behooved me to be
fully informed of the whole matter myself, to prevent being imposed upon ;
and if any offered to put tricks upon me, to punish them as they deserve.
Thus ended our conversation for this day, and I retired to a very clean
lodging in another house, and took my bark, but was forced to take it in
water, by reason a light fingered damsel had ransacked my baggage, and
drunk up my brandy. This unhappy girl, it seems, is a baronet's daughter ;
but her complexion, being red-haired, inclined her so much to lewdness, that
her father sent her, under the care of the virtuous Mr. Cheep, to seek her for-
tune on this side the globe.

24th. My friend, Mr. Chiswell, made me reparation for the robbery of his
servant, by filling my bottle again with good brandy. It being Sunday, I
made a motion for going to church, to see the growth of the parish, but un-
luckily the sermon happened to he at the chapel, which was too far off. I
was unwilling to tire my friend with any farther discourse upon iron, and
therefore turned the conversation to other subjects. And talking of manage-
ment, he let me into two secrets worth remembering. He said the quickest
way in the world to stop the fermentation of any liquor was to keep a light-
ed match of brunstone under the cask for some time. This is useful in so
w^arm a country as this, where cider is apt to work itself off both of
its strength and sweetness. The other secret was to keep weevils out of
wheat and other grain. You have nothing to do, said he, but to put a bag
of pepper into every heap, or cask, which those insects have such an anti-
pathy to that they will not approach it. These receipts he gave me, not
upon report, but upon his own repeated experience. He farther told me he
had brewed as good ale of malt made of Indian corn as ever he tasted ;
all the objection was, he could neither by art, or standing, ever bring it to
be fine in the cask. The quantity of corn he employed in brewing a cask
of forty gallons was two bushels and a half, which made it very strong and
pleasant. We had a haunch of venison for dinner, as fat and well tasted as
if it had come out of Richmond park. In these upper parts of the country
the deer are in better case than below, though I believe the buck which gave
us so good a dinner had eaten out his value in peas, which will make deer ex-
ceedingly fat. In the afternoon, I walked with my friend to his mill, which
is half a mile from his house. It is built upon a rock very firmly, so that it
is more apt to suffer by too little water, (the run not being over plentiful,)
than too much. On the other side of this stream lie several of Col. Jones'
plantations. The poor negroes upon them are a kind of Adamites, very
scantily supplied with clothes and other necessaries ; nevertheless, (which is
a little incomprehensible,) they continue in perfect health, and none of them
die, except it be of age. However, they are even with their master, and
make him but indifferent crops, so that he gets nothing by his unjustice, but
the scandal of it. And here I must make one remark, which I am a little
unwilling to do for fear of encouraging of cruelty, that those negroes which
are kept^the barest of clothes and bedding are commonly the freest firom
sickness. And this happens, I suppose, by their being all face, and therefore

PROGRESS TO THE MINES. ] 29

bettei' proof against the sudden changes of weatlier, to which this climate is
unhappily subject.

25th. Aftei- sayinsr some very civil things to Mrs. Chiswell, for my hand-
some entertainment, I mounted my horse, and Mr. Chiswell his phaeton, in
order to go to the mines at Fredericksville. We could converse very little
by the way, by reason of our different voitures. The road was very straight
and level the whole journey, which was twenty-five miles, the last ten
whereof I rode in the chair, and my friend on my horse, to ease ourselves by
that variety of motion. About a mile before we got to Fredericksville, we
forded over the north branch of Pamunky, about sixty yards over. Neither
this nor the south branch run up near so high as the mountains, but many miles
below them spread out into a kind of morass, like Chickahominy. AVhen we
approached the mines, there opened to our view a large space of cleared
ground, whose wood had been cut down for coaling. We arrived here about
two o'clock, and Mr. Chiswell had been so provident as to bring a cold
venison pasty, with which we appeased our appetites, without the impatience
of waiting. W'hen our tongues were at leisure for discourse, my friend told
me there was one Mr. Harrison, in England, who is so universal a dealer in
all sorts of iron, that he could govern the market just as he pleased. That
it was by his artful management that our iron from the plantations sold
for less than that made in England, though it was generally reckoned much
better. That ours would hardly fetch six pounds a ton, when their's fetched
seven or eight, purely to serve that man's interest. Then he explained the
several charges upon our sow iron, after it was put on board the ships. That
in the first place it paid seven shillings and sixpence a ton for freight, being
just so much clear gain to the ships, which carry it as ballast, or wedge it in
among the hogsheads. When it gets home, it pays three shillings and nine-
pence custom. These articles together make no more than eleven shillings
and three pence, and yet the merchants, by their great skill in multiplying
charges, swell the account up to near thirty shillings a ton by that time it
gets out of their hands, and they are continually adding more and more, as
they serve us in our accounts of tobacco. He told me a strange thing about
steel, that the making of the best remains at this day a profound secret in
the breast of a very few, and therefore is in danger of being lost, as the art
of staining of glass, and many others, have been. He could only tell me they
used beech w^ood in the making of it in Europe, and burn it a considerable
time in powder of charcoal ; but the mystery lies in the liquor they quench
it in. After dinner we took a walk to the furnace, which is elegantly built of
brick, though the hearth be of fire-stone. There we saw the founder, Mr.
Derham, who is paid four shillings for every ton of sow iron that he runs,
which is a shilling cheaper than the last workman had. This operator looked
a little melancholy, because he had nothing to do, the furnace having been
cold ever since May, for want of corn to support the cattle. This was how-
ever no neglect of Mr. Chiswell, because all the persons he had contracted
with had basely disappointed him. But having received a small supply, they
intended to blow very soon. With that view they began to heat the furnace,
which is six weeks before it comes to that intense heat recpiired to run the
metal in perfection. Neverthless, they commonly begin to blow when the
fire has been kindled a week or ten days. Close by the furnace stood a
very spacious house full of charcoal, holding at least four hundred loads,
which will be burnt out in three month-s. The company has contracted with
Mr. Harry Willis to fall the wood, and then maul it and cut it into pieces of
four feet in length, and bring it to the pits where it is to be coaled. All this
he has undertaken to do for two shillings a cord, which must be four feet
broad, four feet high, and eight feet long. BtMng thus carried to the pits, the

130 PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

collier has contracted to coal it for five shillings a load, consisting of one hun-
dred and sixty bushels. The fire in the furnace is blown by two "mighty pairs
of bellows, that cost one hundred pounds each, and these bellows are moved
by a great wheel of twenty-six feet diameter. The wheel again is carried
round by a small stream of water, conveyed about three hundred and fifty
yards over land in a trough, from a pond made by a wooden dam. But
there is great want of water in a dry season, which makes the furnace often
blow out, to the great prejudice of the works. Having thus filled my head
with all these particulars, we returned to the house, where, after talking of
Col. Spotswood, and his stratagems to shake off his partners, and secure all
his m.nes to himself, I retired to a homely lodging, which, like a homespun
mistress, had been more tolerable, if it had been svveet.

26th. Over our tea, Mr. Chiswell told me the expense which the company
had been already at amounted to near twelve thousand pounds: but then
the land, negroes, and cattle were all included in that charge. However,
the money began now to come in, they having run twelve hundred tons of
iron, and all their heavy disbursements were over. Only they were still
forced to buy great quantities of corn, because they had not strength of
their own to make it. That they had not more than eighty negroes, and
few of those Virginia born. That they need forty negroes more to carry on
all the business with their own force. They have fifteen thousand acres of
land, though little of it rich except in iron, and of that they have a great
quantity. Mr. Fitzwilliam, took up the mine tract, and had the address to
draw in the governor, Capt. Pearse, Dr. Nicolas and Mr. Chiswell to be jointly
concerned with him, by which contrivance he first got a good price for the
land, and then, when he had been very little out of pocket, sold his share to
Mr. Nelson for five hundred pounds ; and of these gentlemen the company
at present consists. And Mr. Chiswell is the only person amongst them that
knows any thing of the matter, and has one hundred pounds a year for look-
ing after the works, and richly deserves it. After breaking our fast we took
a walk to the principal mine, about a mile from the furnace, where they had
sunk in some places about fifteen or twenty feet deep. The operator, Mr.
Gordon, raised the ore, for which he was to have by contract one and six-
pence per cart-load of twenty-six hundred weight. This man was obliged
to hire all the laborers he wanted for this work of the company, after the
rate of twenty-five shillings a month, and for all that was able to clear forty
pounds a-year for himself We saw here several large heaps of ore of two
sorts, one of rich, and the other spongy and poor, which they melted together
to make the metal more tough. The way of raising the ore was by blowing
it up, which operation I saw here from beginning to end. They first drilled
a hole in the mine, either upright or sloping, as the grain of it required.
This hole they cleansed with a rag fastened to the end of an iron with a
worm at the end of it. Then they put in a cartridge of powder containing
about three ounces, and at the same time a reed full of fuse that reached to
the powder. Then they rammed dry clay, or soft stone very hard into the
hole, and lastly they fired the fuse wath a paper that had been dipped in a
solution of saltpetre and dried, which burning slow and sure, gave leisure to
the engineer to retire to a proper distance before the explosion. This in the
miner's language is called making a blast, which will loosen several hundred
weight of ore at once ; and afterwards the laborers easily separate it with
pick-axes and carry it away in baskets up to the heap. At our return we
saw near the furnace large heaps of mine with charcoal mixed with it, a
stratum of each alternately, beginning first with a layer of charcoal at the
bottom. To this they put fire, which in a little time spreads through the
whole heap, and calcines the ore, which afterwards easily crumbles into

PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

131

small pieces fit for the furnace. There was likewise a miglity quantity of
limestone, brought from Bristol, by way of ballast, at two and sixpence a ton,
which they are at the trouble to cart hither from llappahannock river, but
contrive to do it when the carts return from carrying of iron. They put
this into the furnace with the iron ore, in the proportion of one ton of stone to
ten of ore, with design to absorb the sulphur out of the iron, which would
otherwise make it brittle. And if that be the use of it, oyster shells would
certainly do as well as limestone, being altogether as strong an alkali, if not
stronger. Nor can their being taken out of salt water be any objection, be-
cause it is pretty certain the West India limestone, which is thrown up
by the sea, is even better than that imported from Bristol. But the founders
who never tried either of these will by no means be persuaded to go out of
their way, though the reason of the thing be never so evident. 1 observed
the richer sort of mine, being of a dark colour mixed with rust, was laid in
a heap by itself, and so was the poor, which was of a liver or brick colour.
The sow iron is in the figure of a half-round, about two feet and a half-long,
weighing sixty or seventy pounds, whereof three hundred weight make a
cart-load drawn by eight oxen, which are commonly shod to save their hoofs,
in those stony ways. When the furnace blows, it runs about twenty tons of
iron a week. The founders find it very hot work to tend the furnace, es-
pecially in summer, and are obliged to spend no small part of their earnings
in strong drink to recruit their spirits. Besides the founder, t!ie collier, and
miner, who are paid in proportion to their work, the company have several
other officers upon wages, a stock-taker, who weighs and measures every
thing, a clerk, who keeps an account of all receipts and disbursements, a
smith to shoe their cattle, and keep all their iron work in repair, a wheel-
wright, cart Wright, carpenter, and several cartei-s. The wages of all these
persons amount to one hundred pounds a year ; so that including Mr. Chis-
v/ell's salary, they disburse two hundred pounds per annum in standing
wages. The provisions too are a heavy article, which their plantations do not
yet produce in a sufficient quantity, though they are at the charge of a gene-
ral overseer. But while corn is so short with them, there can" be no great
increase of stock of any kind.

27th. Having now pretty well exhausted the subject of sow iron, I asked
my friend some questions about bar-iron. He told me we had as yet no
forge erected in Virginia, though we had four furnaces. But there was a
very good one set up at the head of the bay in Maryland, that made exceed-
ing good work. He let me know that the duty in England upon bar iron
was twenty-four shillings a ton, and that it sold there from ten to sixteen
pounds a ton. This would pay the charge of forging abundantly, but he
doubted the parliament of England would soon forbid us that improvement,
lest after that we should go farther, and manufacture our bars into all sorts
of iron ware, as they already do in New England and Pennsylvania. Nay,
he questioned whether we should be suffered to cast any iron, which they
can do themselves at their furnaces. Thus ended our conversation, and I
thanked my friend for being so free in communicating every thing to me.
Then, after tipping a pistole to the clerk, to drink prosperity to tlie mines
with all the workmen, 1 accepted the kind ofl'cr of going jKirt of my journey
in the phaeton. 1 took my leave about ten, and drove over a spacious level
road ten miles, to a bridge built over the river Po, which is one of the four
branches of Matapony, aiiout forty yards wiile. Two miles beyoml that,
we passed by a plantation belonging to the company, of about five hundred
acres, where they keep a great number of oxen to relieve those that have
draggetl their loaded carts thus far. Three miles farther we came to the Gov-
manna road, where I (luittcd the chair, and continued my journey on horse-

132 PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

back. I rode eight miles together over a stony road, and iiad on either side
continual poisoned fields, with nothing but saplings growing on them. Then
I came into the main county road, that leads from Fredericksburg to Ger-
manna, which last place I reached in ten miles more. This famous town
consists of Col. Spotswood's enchanted castle on one side of the street, and
a baker's dozen of ruinous tenements on the other, where so many German
families had dwelt some years ago ; but are now removed ten miles higher,
in the fork of Rappahannock, to land of their own. There had also been a
chapel about a bow-shot from the colonel's house, at the end of an avenue
of cherry trees, but some pious people had lately burnt it down, with intent
to get another built nearer to their own homes. Here I arrived about three
o'clock, and found only Mrs. Spotsvvood at home, who received her old ac-
quaintance with many a gracious smile. I was carried into a i-oom elegantly
set off with pier glasses, the largest of which came soon after to an odd misfor-
tune. Amongst other favourite animals that cheered this lady's solitude, a
brace of tame deer ran familiarly about the house, and one of them came to
stare at me as a stranger. But unluckily spying his own figure in the glass,
he made a spring over the tea table that stood under it, and shattered the
glass to pieces, and falling back upon the tea table, made a terrible fracas
among the china. This exploit was so sudden, and accompanied with such
a noise, that it surprised me. and perfectly frightened Mrs. Spotswood. But
it was worth all the damage, to show the moderation and good humour with
which she bore this disaster. In the evening the noble colonel came home
from his mines, who saluted me very civilly, and Mrs. Spotswood's sister,
Miss Theky, who had been to meet him en cavalier, was so kind too as to
bid me welcome. We talked over a legend of old stories, supped about
nine, and then prattled with the ladies, till it was time for a traveller to retire.
In the mean time I observed my old friend to be very uxorious, and exceed-
ingly fond of his children. This was so opposite to the maxims he used to
preach up before he was married, that I could not forbear rubbing up the
memory of them. But he gave a very good-natured turn to his change of
sentiments, by alleging that whoever brings a poor gentlewoman into so soli-
tary a place, from all her friends and acquaintance, would be ungrateful not
to use her and all that belongs to her with all possil)le tenderness.

28th. We all kept snug in our several apartments till nine, except Miss
Theky, who was the housewife of the family. At that hour we met over a
))ot of coffee, which was not quite strong enough to give us the palsy.
After breakfast the colonel and I left the ladies to their domestic affairs, and
took a turn in the garden, which has nothing beautiful but three terrace
walks that fall in slopes one below another. I let him understand, that be-
sides the pleasure of paying him a visit, I came to be instructed by so great a
master in the mystery of making of iron, wherein he had led the way, and was
the Tubal Cain of Virginia. He corrected me a little there, by assuring me he
was not only the first in this country, but the first in North America, who
had erected a regular furnace. That they ran altogether upon bloomeries in
New England and Pennsylvania, till his example had made them attempt
greater works. But in this last colony, they have so few ships to carry their
iron to Great Britain, that they must be content to make it only for their own
use, and must be obliged to manufacture it when they have done. That he
hoped he had done the country very great service by setting so good an ex-
ample. That the four furnaces now at work in Virginia circulated a great
sum of money for provisions and all other necessaries in the adjacent coun-
ties. That they took off a great number of hands from planting tobacco,
and employed them in works that produced a large sum of money in England
to the persons concerned, whereby the country is so much the richer. That

PROGRESS TO THE MINES. J33

tliey are besides a considerable advantage to Great Britain, because it lessens
the quantity of bar iron imported from Spain, Holland, Sweden, {Denmark
and Muscovy, which used to be no less than twenty thousand tons yearly,
though at the same time no sow iron is imported thither from any country
but only from tiie plantations. For most of t!iis bar iron they do not only
pay silver, but our friends in the Baltic are so nice, they even expect to be
paid all in crown pieces. On the contrary, all the iron they receive from the
plantations, they pay for it in their own manufactures, and send for it in their
own shipping. Tiien I inquired after his own mines, and hoped, as he was
the first that engaged in this great undertaking, that he had brought them to
the most perfection. He told me he had iron in sevei'al parts of his great
tract of land, consisting of forty-five thousand acres. But that the mine he
was at work upon was thirteen miles below Germanna. That his ore (which
was very rich) he raised a mile from his furnace, and was obliged to cart the
iron, when it was made, fifteen miles to Massaponux, a plantation he had
upon Rappahannock river; but that the road was exceeding good, gently
declining ail the way, and had no more than one hill to go up in the whole
journey. For this reason his loaded carts went it in a day without difficulty.
He said it was true his works were of the oldest standing : but that his long
absence in England, and the wretched management of Mr. Greame, whom he
had entrusted with his affairs, had put him back very much. That what
with neglect and severity, above eighty of his slaves were lost while he was
in England, and most of his cattle starved. That his furnace stood still
great part of the time, and all his plantations ran to ruin. That indeed he
was rightly served for committing his affairs to the care of a mathematician,
whose thoughts were always among the stars. That nevertheless, since his
return, he had applied himself to rectify his steward's mistakes, and bring his
business again into order. That now he had contrived to do every thing
with his own people, except raising the mine and running the iron, by which
he had contracted his expense very much. Nay, he believed that by his
directions he could bring sensible negroes to perform those parts of the work
tolerably well. But at the same time he gave me to imderstand, that his
furnace had done no great feats lately, because he had been taken up in
building an air furnace at Massaponux, which he had now brought to per-
fection, and should be thereby able to furnish the whole country with all
sorts of cast iron, as cheap and as good as ever came from England. I told
him he must do one thing more to have a full vent for those commodities, he
must keep a shallop running into all the rivers, to carry his wares home to
people's own doors. And if he would do that I would set a good example,
and take off a whole ton of them. Our conversation on this subject con-
tinued till dinner, which was both elegant and plentiful. The afternoon was
devoted to the ladies, who showed mo one of their most beautiful walks.
They conducted me through a shady lane to the landing, and by the way
made me drink some very fine water that issued from a marble fountain, and
ran incessantly. Just behind it was a covered bench, where Miss Theky
often sat and bewailed her virginity. Then we proceeded to the river,
which is the south branch of Rappahannock, about fifty yards wide, and so
rapid that the ft^rry boat is drawn over by a chain, antl therefore called the
Rapidan. At night wo drank prosperity to all the colonel's projects in a bowl
of rack punch, and then retired to our devotions.

'29th. Having employed about two hours in retirement, I sallied out at the
first summons to breakfast, where our conversation with the ladie.s, like whip
sillabub, was very pretty, but had nothing in it. This it seems was Miss
Theky's birth day, upon which I made her my compliuients, and wished she
might live twice as long a married woman as she had lived a maid. I did

134 PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

not presume to pry into the secret of her age, nor was she forward to dis-
close it, for this humble reason, lest I should think her wisdom fell short of
her years. She contrived to make this Hay of her birth a day of mourning,
for having nothing better at present to set her affections upon, she had a dog
that was a great favourite. It happened that very morning the poor cur had
done something very uncleanly upon the colonel's bed, for which he was con-
demned to die. However, upon her entreaty, she got him a reprieve ; but
was so concerned that so much severity should be intended on her birth day,
that she was not to be comforted ; and lest such another accident might oust
the poor cur of his clergy, she protested she would board out her dog at a
neighbour's house, where she hoped he would be more kindly treated. Then
the Golonel and I took aaother turn in the garden, to discourse farther on the
subject of iron. He was very frank in communicating all his dear-bought
experience to me, and told me very civilly he would not only let me into the
whole secret, but would make a journey to James river, and give me his
faithful opinion of all my conveniences. For his part he wished there were
many more iron works in the country, provided the parties concerned would
preserve a constant harmony among themselves, and meet and consult fre-
quently, what might be for their common advantage. By this they might be
better able to manage the workmen, and reduce their wages to what was
just and reasonable. After this frank speech, he began to explain the whole
charge of an iron work. He said, there ought at least to be a hundred
negroes employed in it, and those upon goud laud would make corn, and
raise provisions enough to support themselves and the cattle, and do every
other part of the business. That the furnace might be built for seven hun-
dred pounds, and made ready to go to work, if I went the nearest way to do
it, especially since eoming after so many, I might correct their errors and
avoid their miscarriages. That if I had ore and wood enough, and a con-
venient stream of water to set the furnace upon, having neither too much
nor too little water, I might undertake the affair with a full assurance of
success. Pi'ovided the distance of carting be not too great, which is exceed-
ingly burdensome. That there must be abundance of wheel carriages, shod
with iron, and several teams of oxen, provided to transport the wood that is
to be coaled, and afterwards the coal and ore to the furnace, and last of all
the sow iron to the nearest water carriage, and carry back limestone and
other necessaries from thence to the works ; and a sloop also would be useful
to carry the iron on board the ships, the masters not being always in the
humour to fetch it. Then he enumerated the people that were to be hired,
viz. : a founder, a mine-raiser, a collier, a stock-taker, a clerk, a smith, a
carpenter, a wheelwright, and several carters. That these altogether will
be a standing charge of about five hundred pounds a year. That the
amount of freight, custom, commission and other charges in England, comes
to twenty-seven shillings a ton. But that the merchants yearly find out
means to inflame the account with new articles, as they do in those of to-
bacco. That, upon the whole matter, the expenses here and in England may
be computed modestly at two pounds a ton. And the rest that the iron sells
for will be clear gain, to pay for the land and negroes, which it is to be hoped
will be three pounds more for every ton that is sent over. As this account
agreed pretty near with that which Mr. Chiswell had given me, I set it down
(notwithstanding it may seem a repetition of the same thing) to prove that
both these gentlemen were sincere in their representations. We had a Mi-
chaelmas goose for dinner, of Miss Theky's own raising, who was now good-
natured enough to forget the jeopardy of her dog. In the afternoon we
walked in a meadow by the river side, which winds in the form of a horse-
shoe about Germanna, making it a peninsula, containing about four hundred

PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

135

acres. Rappahannock forks about fourteen miles below this place, the northern
branch being the larger, and consequently must be the river that bounds my
lord Fairfax's grant of the Northern Neck.

30th. The sun rose clear this morning, and so did I, and finished all iwy
little affairs by breakfast. It was then resolved to wait on the ladies on
horseback, since the bright sun, the fine air, and the wholesome exercise, all
invited us to it. We forded the river a little above the ferry, and rode six
miles up the neck to a fine level piece of rich land, whei*e we found about
twenty plants of ginseng, with the scarlet berries growing on the top of the
middle stalk. The root of this is of wonderful virtue in many cases, par-
ticularly to raise the spirits and promote perspiration, which makes it a spe-
cific in colds and coughs. The colons complimented me with all we found,
in return for my telling him the virtues of it. We were all pleased to find
so much of this king of plants so near the colonel's habitation, and growing
too upon his own land; but were, however, surprised to find it upon level
ground, after we had been told it grew only upon the north side of stony
mountains. I carried home this treasure, with as much joy, as if every root
had been a graft of the tree of life, and washed and dried it carefully. This
airing made us as hungry as so many hawks, so that between appetite and
a very good dinner, it was ditficult to eat like a philosopher. In the
afternoon the ladies walked me about amongst all their little animals, with
which they amuse themselves, and furnish the table ; the worst of it is, they
•^re so tender-hearted, they shed a silent tear every time any of them are
killed. At night the colonel and I quitted the threadbare subject of iron,
and changed the scene to politics. He told me the ministry had receded
from their demand upon New England, to raise a standing salary for all
succeeding governors, for fear some curious members of the house of com-
mons should inquire how the money was disposed of, that had been raised
in the other American colonies for the support of their governors. And
particularly what becomes of the four and a half per cent., paid in the sugar
colonies for that purpose. That duty produces near twenty thousand pounds
a year, but being remitted into the exchequer, not one of the West India
governors is paid out of it; but they, like falcons, are let loose upon
the people, who are complaisant enough to settle other revenues upon
them, to the great impoverishing of these colonies. In the mean time,
it is certain the money raised by the four and a half per cent, moulders away
between the minister's fingers, no body knows how, like the quitrents of
Virginia. And it is for this reason that the instructions, forbidding all govern-
ors to accept of any presents from their assemblies, are dispensed with in the
sugar islands, while it is strictly insisted upon every where else, where the as-
semblies were so wise as to keep their revenues among themselves. He said
further, that if the assembly in New England would stand bluff, lie did not
see how they could be forced to raise money against their will, for if they
should direct it to be done by act of parliament, which they have threatened
to do, (though it be against the right of Englishmen to be taxed, but by their
representatives,) yet they would find it no easy matter to put such an act
in execution. Then the colonel read me a lecture upon tar, alfirming that it
cannot be made in this warm climate, after the manner they make it m Swe-
den and Muscovy, by barking the tree two yards from the ground, whereby
the turpentine descends all into the stump in a year's time, which is then split
in pieces in order for the kiln. Hut here the sun fries out the turpontiiic in
the branches of the tree, when the leaves are dried, and hinders it from
descending. But, on the contrary, those who biu-n tar of lightwood in the
common way, and are carofiil about it, make as good as that which comes
from the ea.st country, nor will it burn the cordage more than that do««.

136

PROGRESS TO THE MINES

Then we entered upon the subject of hemp, whioh the colonel told nie he
never could raise here from foreign seed, but at last sowed the seed of wild
hemp, (which is very common in the upper parts of the country) and that
came up very thick. That he sent about five hundred pounds of it to Eng-
land, and that the commissioners of the navy, after a full trial of it, reported
to the lords of the admiralty, that it was equal in goodness to the best that
comes from Riga. I told him if our hemp were never so good, it would not
be worth the making here, even though they should continue the bounty.
And my reason was, because labour is not nioi'e than two pence a day in
the east country where they produce hemp, and here we cannot compute it
at less than ten pence, which being five times as much as their labour, and
considering besides, that our freight is three times as dear as theirs, the price
that will make them rich will ruin us, as I have found by woful experience.
Besides, if the king, who must have the refusal, buys our hemp, the navy is
so long in paying both the price and the bounty, that we who live from hand
to moutli cannot afford to wait so long for it. And then our good friends,
the merchants, load it with so many charges, that they run away with great
part of the profit themselves. Just like the bald eagle, which after the fish-
ing hawk has been at great pains to catch a fish, pounces upon and takes it
from him. Our conversation was interrupted by a summons to supper, for
the ladies, to show tlieir power, had by this time brought us tamely to go to
bed with our bellies full, though we both at first declared positively against
it. So very pliable a thing is frail man, when women have the bending of
him.

October 1st. Our ladies overslept themselves this morning, so that we did
not break our fast till ten. We drank tea made of the leaves of ginseng,
which has the virtues of the root in a weaker degree, and is not disagreeable.
So soon as w^e could force our inclinations to quit the ladies, we took a turn
on the terrace w^alk, and discoursed upon quite a new subject. The colonel
explained to me the difference betwixt the galleons and the flota, which very
few people know. The galleons, it seems, are the ships which bring the trea-
sure and other rich merchandise to Carthagena from Portobel, to which
place it is brought over land, from Panama and Peru. And the flota is the
squadron that brings the treasure, &c., from Mexico and New Spain, which
make up at La Vera Cruz. Both these squadrons rendezvous at the Ha-
vanna, from hence they shoot the gulf of Florida, in their return to Old
Spain. That this important port of the Havanna is very poorly fortified,
and worse garrisoned and provided, for which reason it may be easily taken.
Besides, both the galleons and flota, being confined to sail through the gulf,
mio'ht be intercepted by our stationing a squadron of men of war at the most
convenient of the Bahama islands. And that those islands are of vast con-
sequence for that purpose. He told me also that the azogue ships are they
that carry quicksilver to Portobello and La Vera Cruz, to refine the silver,
and that, in Spanish, azogue signifies quicksilver. Then my friend unrid-
dled to me the great mystery, wiiy we have endured all the late insolences
of the Spaniards so tamely. The asiento contract, and the liberty of send-
ino' a ship every year to the Spanish West Indies, make it very necessary
for the South Sea Company to have effects of great value in that part of the
world. Now these being always in the power of the Spaniards, make the
directors of that company very fearful of a breach, and consequently very
o-enerous in their offers to the ministry to prevent it. For fear these worthy
gentlemen should suffer, the English squadron, under Admiral Hosier, lay
idle at the Bastimentos, till the ships' bottoms were eaten out by the worm, and
the officers and men, to the number of five thousand, died like rotten sheep,
without being suffered, by the strictest orders, to strike one stroke, though

PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 137

they might have taken both the flota and galleons, and made themselves
masters of the Havanna into the bargain, if they had not been chained up
from doing it. All this moderation, our peaceable ministry showed even at
a time when the Spaniards were furiously attacking Gibraltar, and taking all
the English ships they could, both in Europe and America, to the great and
everlasting reproach of the British nation. That some of the ministry, be-
ing tired out with the clamours of the merchants, declared their opinion for
.war, and while they entertained those sentiments they pitched upon him,
Col. Spotswood, to be governor of Jamaica, that by his skill and ex'perience
in the art military, they might be the better able to execute their design of
taking the Havanna. But the courage of these worthy patriots soon cooled,
and the arguments used by the South Sea directors, persuaded them once
again into more pacific measures. Wlien the scheme was dropped, his
government of Jamaica was dropped at the same time, and then general
Hunter was judged fit enough to rule that island in time of peace. After
this the colonel endeavoured to convince me that he came fairly by his place
of postmaster-general, notwithstanding the report of some evil disposed
persons to the contrary. The case was this, Mr. Hamilton, of New Jersey,
who had formerly had that post, wrote to Col. Spotswood, in England, to
favour him with his interest to get it restored to him. But the colonel, con-
sidering wisely that charity began at home, instead of getting the place for
Hamilton, secured it for a better friend : though, as he tells the story, that
gentleman was absolutely refused, before he spoke the least good word for
himself.

2d. This being the day appointed for my departure from hence, I packed
up my effects in good time ; but the ladies, whose dear companies we were
to have to the mines, were a little tedious in their equipment. However,
we made a shift to get into the coach by ten o'clock ; but little master, who
is under no government, would by all means go on horseback. Before we
set out I gave Mr. Russel the trouble of distributing a pistole among the
servants, of which I fancy the nurse had a pretty good share, being no small
favourite. We drove over a fine road to the mines, which lie thirteen mea-
sured miles from the Germanna, each mile being marked distinctly upon the
trees. The colonel has a great deal of land in his mine tract exceedingly
barren, and the growth of trees upon it is hardly big enough for coaling.
However, the treasure under ground makes amends, and renders it worthy
to be his lady's jointure. We lighted at the mines, which are a mile nearer to
Germanna than the furnace. They raise abundance of ore there, great
part of which is very rich. We saw his engineer blow it up af^er the follow-
ing manner. He drilled a hole about eighteen inches deep, humouring the
situation of the mine. When he had dried it with a rag fastened to a worm,
he charged it with a cartridge containing four ounces of powder, including
the priming. Then he rammed the hole up with soft stone to the very mouth ;
after that he pierced through all with an iron called a primer, which is taper
and ends in a sharp point. Into the hole the primer makes the priming is
put, which is fired by a paper moistened with a solution of saltpetre. And
this burns leisurely enough, it seems, to give time for the persons concerned
to retreat out of harm's way. All the land hereabouts seems paved with
iron ore; so that there seems to be enough to feed a furnace for many ages.
From hence we proceeded to the furnace, which is built of rough stone,
having been the first of that kind erected in the country. It had not blown
for several moons, tiie colonel having taken off great part of his people to
carry on his air fiirnacc at Massaponux. Here the wheel that carried the
bellows was no more than twenty feet diameter; but was an overshot wheel
that wont with little water. This was necessary here, because water is

138 PROGRESS TO THEi MINES.

something scarce, notwithstanding it is supplied by two streams, one of
which is conveyed one thousand and nine hundred feet through wooden
pipes, and the other sixty. The name of the founder employed at present
is one G■odfre5^ of the kingdom of Ireland, whose wages is three shillings
and sixpence per ton for all the iron he runs, and his provisions. This man
told me that the best wood for coaling is red oak. He complained that the
colonel starves his works out of whimsicalness and frugality, endeavourinf^-
to do every thing with his own people, and at the same time taking them
off upon every vagary that comes into his head. Here the coal carts dis-
charge their load at folding doors, made at the bottom, which is sooner done,
and shatters the coal less. They carry no more than one hundred and ten
bushels. The colonel advised me by all means to have the coal made on the
same side the river with the furnace, not only to avoid the charge of boat-
ing and bags, but likewise to avoid breaking of the coals, and making them
less fit for use. Having picked the bones of a sirloin of beef, we took
leave of the ladies, and rode together about five miles, where the roads part-
ed. The colonel took that to Massaponux, which is fifteen miles from, his
furnace, and very level, and I that to Fredericksburg, which cannot be less
than twenty. I was a little benighted, and should not have seen my way,
if the lightning, which flashed continually in my face, had not befriended me.
I got about seven o'clock to Col. Harry Willis's, a little moistened with the
rain ; but a glass of good wine kept my pores open, and prevented all rheums
and defluxions for that time.

3d. I was obliged to rise early here, that I might not starve my landlord,
whose constitution requires him to swallow a beef-steak before the sun
blesses the world with its genial rays. However, he was so complaisant
as to bear the gnawing of his stomach, till eight o'clock for my sake. Col.
Waller, after a score of loud hems to clear his throat, broke his fast along
with us. When this necessary affair was despatched. Col. Willis walked me
about his town of Fredericksburg. It is pleasantly situated on the south
shore of Rappahannock river, about a mile below the falls. Sloops may
come up and lie close to the w^harf, within thirty yards of the public ware-
houses, which are built in the figure of a cross. Just by the wharf is a
quarry of white stone that is very soft in the ground, and hardens in the air,
appearing to be as fair and fine grained as that of Portland. Besides that,
there are several other quarries in the river bank, within the limits of the
town, sufficient to build a large city. The only edifice of stone yet built is
the prison ; the walls of which are strong enough to hold Jack Sheppard,
if he had been transported thither. Though this be a commodious and
beautiful situation for a town, with the advantages of a navigable river, and
wholesome air, yet the inhabitants are very few. Besides Col. Willis, who is
the top man of the place, there are only one merchant, a tailor, a smith and
an ordinary keeper ; though I must not forget Mrs. Levistone, who acts here
in the double capacity of a doctress and coflfee woman. And were this a
populous city, she is qualified to exercise two other callings. It is said the
court-house and the church are going to be built here, and then both religion
and justice will help to enlarge the place. Two miles from this place is a
spring strongly impregnated with alum, and so is the earth all about it.
This water does wonders for those that are afflicted with a drop.sy. And on
the other side the river, in King George county, twelve miles from hence, is
another spring of strong steel water, as good as that at Tunbridge Wells. Not
far from this last spring are England's iron mines, called so from the chief ma-
nager of them, though the land belongs to Mr. Washington. These mines are
two miles from the furnace, and Mr. Washmgton raises the ore, and carts it
thither for twenty shillings the ton of iron that it yields. The furnace is built

PROGRESS TO THE MINES. ] 39

on a run, which discharges its waters into Potomac. And when the iron
is cast, they cart it about six miles to a landing on that river. Besides Mr.
Washington and Mr. England, there are several other persons, in England,
concerned in these works. Matters are very well managed there, and no
expense is spared to make them profitable, which is not the case in the
worlds I have already mentioned. Mr. England can neither write nor read ;
but without those helps, is so well skilled in iron worlcs, that he does not only
carry on his furnace, but has likewise the chief management of the works
at Principia, at the head of the bay, where they have also erected a forge
and make very good bar iron. Col. Willis had built a flue to try all sorts
of ore in, which was contrived after the following manner. It was built of
stone four feet square with an iron grate fixed in the middle of it for the
fire to lie upon. It was open at the bottom, to give a free passage to the
air up to the grate. Above the grate was another opening that carried the
smoke into a chimney. This makes a draught upward, and the fire rarify-
ing the air below, makes another draught underneath, which causes the
fire to burn very fiercely, and melt any ore in the crucibles that are set
upon the fire. This was erected by a mason called Taylor, who told me
he built the furnace at Fredcricksville, and came in for that purpose at three
shillings and sixpence a day, to be paid him from the time he left his house
in Gloucestershire, to the time he returned thither again, unless he chose
rather to remain in Virginia after he had done his work. It happened to be
court day here, but the rain hindered all but the most quarrelsome people
from coming. The colonel brought three of his brother justices to dine with
us, namely, John Talifero, major Lightfoot, and captain Green, and in the
evening parson Kenner edified us with his company, who left this parish
for a better, without any regard to the poor souls he had half saved, of the
flock he abandoned.

4th. The sun rising very bright, invited me to leave this infant city;
accordingly, about ten, I took leave of my hospitable landlord, and persuaded
parson Kenner to be my guide to Massaponux, lying five miles oif, where I
had agreed to meet Col. Spotswood. We arrived there about twelve, and
found it a very pleasant and commodious plantation. The colonel received
us with open arms, and carried us directly to his air furnace, which is a very
ingenious and profitable contrivance. The use of it is to melt his sow iron,
in order to cast it into sundry utensils, such as backs for chimneys, andirons,
fenders, plates for hearths, pots, mortars, rollers for gardeners, skillets, boxes
for cart wheels; and many other things, which, one with another, can be
afforded at twenty shillings a ton, and delivered at people's own homes. And,
being cast from the sow iron, are much bettor than those which come from
England, which are cast immediately from the ore for the most part. Mr.
Flowry is the artist that directed the building of this ingenious structure,
which is contrived after this manner. There is an opening about a foot
square for the fresh air to pass through from without. This leads up to an
iron grate that holds about half a bushel of sea coal, and is about six feet
higher than the opening. When the fire is kindled, it rarefies the air in such
a manner as to make a very strong draught from without. About too feet
above the grate is a hole that leads into a kind of oven, the floor of which is
laid shelving towards the mouth. In the middle of this oven, on one side, is
another hole that leads into the funnel of a chimney, about forty feet high.
The smoke mounts up this way, drawing the flame after it with so much
force, that in less than an hour it melts the sows of iron that are thrust to-
wards the upper end of the oven. As the metal melts it runs towards the
mouth into a hollow place, out of which the potter lades it in iron ladles,
in order to pour it into the .several moulds just by. The mouth of the oven

140 PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

is stopped close with a moveable stone shutter, which he removes so soon
as he perceives, through the peep holes, that the iron is melted. The inside
of the oven is lined with soft bricks, made of Sturbridge or Windsor clay,
because no otlier will endure the intense heat of the fire. And over the
tioor of the oven they strew sand taken from the land, and not from the
water side. This sand will melt the second heat here, but that which they
use in England will bear the fire four or five times. The potter is also
obliged to plaster over his ladies with the same sand moistened, to save
them from noeltizig. Here are two of these air furnaces in one room, that
so in case one w^ants repair, the other may work, they being exactly of the
same structure. The chimneys and other outside work of this building are
of free-stone, raised near a mile off, on the colonel's own land. And were
built by his servant, wliose name is Kerby, a very complete workman. This
man disdains to do any thing of rough work, even where neat is not required,
lest any one might say hereafter, Kerby did it. The potter was so com-
plaisant as to show me the whole process, for which I paid him and the other
workmen my respects in the most agreeable way. There w-as a great deal
of ingenuity in the framing of the moulds, wherein they cast the several
utensils, but without breaking them to pieces, I found there was no being let
into that secret. The flakes of iron that fall at the mouth of the oven are
called geets, which are melted over again. The colonel told me, in my ear,
that Mr. Robert Cary, in England, was concerned with him, both in this and
his other iron works, not only to help support the charge, but also to make
friends to the undertaking at home. His honour has settled his cousin, Mr.
Greame, here as postmaster, with a salary of sixty pounds a year, to reward
him for having ruined his estate while he was absent. Just by the air fur-
nace stands a very substantial wharf, close to which any vessel may ride in
safety. After satisfying our eyes with all these sights, we satisfied our
stomachs with a sirloin of beef, and then the parson and I. took leave of the
colonel, and left our blessing upon all his works. We took our way from
thence to major Woodford's, seven miles off, who lives upon a high hill that
affords an extended prospect. On which account it is dignified with the
name of Windsor. There we found Rachel Cocke, who stayed with her sister
some time, that she might not lose the use of her tongue in this lonely place.
We were received graciously, and the evening was spent in talking and
toping, and then the parson and I were conducted to the same apartment,
the house being not yet finished.

5th. The parson slept very peaceably, and gave me no disturbance, so I
rose fresh in the morning, and did credit to the air by. eating a hearty break-
fast. Then major Woodford carried me to the house where he cuts tobacco.
He manufactures about sixty hogsheads yearly, for which he gets after the
rate of eleven pence a pound, and pays himself liberally for his trouble. The
tobacco he cuts is long green, which, according to its name, bears a very
long leaf, and consequently each plant is heavier than common sweet-scented
or Townsend tobacco. The worst of it is the veins of the leaf are very large,
so that it loses its weight a good deal by stemming. This kind of tobacco
is much tlie fashion in these parts, and Jonathan Forward (who has great
interest here) gives a good price for it. This sort the major cuts up, and
has a man that performs it very handily. ' The tobacco is stemmed clean in
the first place, and then laid straight in a box, and pressed down hard by a
press that goes with a nut. This box is shoved forward towards the knife
by a screw, receiving its motion from a treadle, that the engineer sets a-going
with his foot. Each motion pushes the box the exact length which the to-
bacco ought to be of, according to the saffron or oblong cut, which it seems
yields one penny in a pound more at London than the square cut, though

PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 141

at Bristol they are both of equal price. The man strikes down the knife
once at every motion of the screw, so that his hand and foot keep exact
pace with each other. After the tobacco is cut in this manner, it is sifted
first through a sand riddle, and then through a dust riddle, till it is perfectly
elean. Then it is put into a tight hogshead, and pressed under the nut, till
it weighs about a thousand net. One man performs all the work after the
tobacco is stemmed, so that the charge bears no proportion to the profit.
One considerable benefit from planting long green tobacco is, that it is much
harder, and less subject to fire than other sweet scented, though it smells not
altogether so fragrant. I surprised Mrs. Woodford in her housewifery in the
meat-house, at which she blushed as if it had been a sin. We all walked about
a mile in the woods, where I showed them several useful plants, and explained
the virtues of them. This exercise, and the fine air we breathed in, sharpened
our appetites so much that we had no mercy on a rib ofbeef that came attend-
ed with several other good things at dinner. In the afternoon, we tempted all
the family to go along with us to major Ben. Robinson's, who lives on a high hill,
called Moon's Mount, about five miles off". On the road we came to an eminence,
from whence we had a plain ViCw of the mountains, which seemed to be no
more than thirty miles from us, in a straight line, though, to go by the road, it
was near double that distance. The sun had just time to light us to our jour-
ney's end, and the major received us with his usual good humour. He has a
very industrious wife, who has kept him from sinking by the weight of gam-
ing and idleness. But he is now reformed from those ruinous qualities, and
by the help of a clerk's place, in a quarrelsome county, will soon be able to
clear his old scores. We drank exceeding good cider here, the juice of the
white apple, which made us talkative till ten o'clock, and then I was conduct-
ed to a bed-chamber, where there was neither chair nor table ; however, I
slept sound, and waked with strong tokens of health in the morning.

6th. When I got up about sunrise, I was surprised to find that a fog had cov-
ered this high hill ; but there is a marsh on the other side the river that sends
its filthy exhalation up to the clouds. On the borders of that morass lives
Mr. Lomax, a situation fit only for frogs and otters. After fortifying myself
with toast and cider, and sweetening my lips with saluting the lady, 1 look
leave, and the two majors conducted me about four miles on my way, as far
as the church. After that, Ben. Robinson ordered his East Indian to conduct
me to Col. Martin's. In about ten miles, we reached Caroline court-house,
where Col. Armstead and Col. Will. Beverley, have each of them erected an
ordinary, well supplied with wine and other polite liquors, for the worshipful
bench. Besides these, there is a rum ordinary for persons of a more vulgar
taste. Such liberal supplies of strong drink often make Justice nod, and drop
the scales out of her hands. Eight miles beyond the ordinary, I arrived at
Col. Martin's, who received me with more gravity than I expected. But,
upon inquiry, his lady was sick, which had lengthened his face and gave him
a very mournful air. I found him in his night-cap and banian, which is his
ordinary dress in that retired part of the country. Poorer land I never saw
than what he lives upon ; but the wholesomencss of the air, and the good-
ness of the roads, make some amends. In a clear day the moimtains may
be seen from hence, whicii is, in truth, the only rarity of the place. At my
first arrival, the colonel saluted me with a glass of good Canary, and soon after
filled my belly with good mutton and caulillowers. Two people were as
indili'erent company as a man and his wife, without a little inspiration from
the bottle; and then we were forced to go to the kingiloni of Ireland, to iielp
out our conversation. There, it seems, the colonel had an elder brother, a phy-
sician, who threatens him with an estate some time or another ; though pos-
sibly it might come to him sooner if the succession depended on the death of

T

142 PROGRESS TO THE MINES.

one of his patients. By eight o'clock at night we had no more to say, and I
gaped wide as a signal for retiring, whereupon I was conducted to a clean
lodging, where I would have been glad to exchange one of the beds for a
chi«ney.

7th. This morning Mrs. Martin was worse, so that there were no hopes of
seeing how much she was altered. Nor was this all, but the indisposition of
his consort made the colonel intolerably grave and thoughtful. I prudently ate
a meat breakfast, to give me spirits for a long journey, and a long fast. My
landlord was so good as to send his servant along with me, to guide me
through all the turnings of a ditEcult way. In about four miles we crossed
Mattaponi river at Norman's ford, and then slanted down to King William
county road. We kept along that for about twelve miles, as far as the new
brick church. After that I took a blind path, that carried me to several of
Col. Jones's quarters, which border upon my own. The colonel's overseers
were all abroad, which made me fearful I should find mine as idle as they.
But I was mistaken, for when I came to Gravel Hall, the first of my planta-
tions in King William, I found William Snead (that looks after three of them)
very honestly about his business. I had the pleasure to see my people all
well, and my business in good forwardness. I visited all the five quarters on
that side, which spent so much of my time, that I had no leisure to see any of
those on the other side the river ; though I discoursed Thomas Tinsley,
one of the overseers, who inform.ed me how matters went. In the evening
Tinsley conducted me to Mrs. Sym's house, where I intended to take up my
quarters. This lady, at first suspecting I was som.e lover, put on a gravity
that becomes a weed; but so soon as she learned who I was, brightened up
into an unusual cheerfulness and serenity. She was a portly, handsome dame,
of the family of Esau, and seem.ed not to pine too much for the death of her hus-
band, who was of the family of the Saracens. He left a son by her, who has all
the strong features of his sire, not softened in the least by any of hers, so that the
most malicious of her neighbours cannot bring his legitimacy in question, not
even the parson's wife, whose unruly tongue, they say, does not spare even the
reverend doctor, her husband. This widow is a person of a lively and cheer-
ful conversation, with much less reserve than most of her countrywomen.
It becomes her very well, and sets off' her other agreeable qualities to advan-
tage. We tossed off a bottle of honest Port, which we relished with a broil-
ed chicken. At nine I retired to my devotions, and then slept so sound that
fancy itself was stuplfied, else I should have dreamed of my most obliging
landlady.

8th. I moistened my clay with a quart of milk and tea, which I found alto-
gether as great a help to discourse as the juice of the grape. The courte-
ous widow invited me to rest myself there that good day, and go to church
with her, but I excused myself, by telling her she would certainly spoil my
devotion. Then she civilly entreated me to make her house my home when-
ever I visited my plantations, which made me bow low, and thank her very
kindly. From thence I crossed over to Shaccoe's, and took Thomas Tins-
ley for my guide, finding the distance about fifteen miles. I found every
body well at the Falls, blessed be God, though the bloody flux raged pret-
ty much in the neighbourhood. Mr. Booker had received a letter the day
before from Mrs. Byrd, giving an account of great desolation made in our
neighbourhood, by the death of Mr. Lightfoot, Mrs. Soan, Capt. Gerald and
Col. Henry Harrison. Finding the flux had been so fatal, I desired Mr.
Booker to make use of the following remedy, in case it should come amongst
my people. To let them blood immediately about eight ounces; the
next day to give them a dose of Indian physic, and to repeat the vomit
again the day following, unless the symptoms abated. In the mean tune,

PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 143

they should eat nothing but chicken broth, and poached eggs, and drink
nothing but a quarter of a pint of milk boiled with a quart of water, and
medicated with a little mullein root, or that of the prickly pear, to restore the
mucus of the bowels, and heal the excoriation. At the same time, I order-
ed him to communicate this method to all the poor neighbours, and especial-
ly to my overseers, with strict orders to use it on the first appearance of that
distemper, because in that, and all other sharp diseases, delays are very
dangerous. I also instructed Mr. Booker in the way I had learned of blow-
ing up the rocks, which were now drilled pretty full of holes, and he pro-
mised to put it in execution. After discoursing seriously with the father
about my affairs, I joked with the daughter in the evening, and about eight
retired to my castle, and recollected all the follies of the day, the little I
had learned, and the still less good I had done.

9th. My long absence made me long for the domestic delights of my own
family, for the smiles of an affectionate wife, and the prattle of my inno-
cent children. As soon as I sallied out of my castle, I understood that
Col. Carter's Sam was come, by his master's leave, to show my people how to
blow up the rocks in the canal. He pretended to great skill in that matter,
but performed very little, which however might be the effect of idleness
rather than ignorance. He came upon one of my horses, which he tied to a
tree at Shacco's, where the poor animal kept a fast of a night and a day.
Though this fellow worked very little at the rocks, yet my man, Argalus, stole
his trade, and performed as well as he. For this good turn, I ordered Mr.
Samuel half a pistole, all which he laid out with a New England man for
rum, and made my weaver and spinning woman, who has the happiness
to be called his wife, exceedingly drunk. To punish the varlet for all these
pranks, I ordered him to be banished from thence for ever, under the penalty
of being whipped home, from constable to constable, if he presumed to
come again. I left my memoranda with Mr. Booker, of every thing I or-
dered to be done, and mounted my horse about ten, and in little more reach-
ed Bermuda Hundred, and crossed over to Col. Carter's. He, like an indus-
trious person, was gone to oversee his overseers at North Wales, but his
lady was at home, and kept me till supper time before we went to dinner.
As soon as I had done justice to my stomach, I made my honours to the
good humoured little fairy, and made the best of my way home, where I had
the great satisfaction to find all that was dearest to me in good health, nor
had any disaster happened in the family since I went away. Some of the
neighbours had worm fevers, with all the symptoms of the bloody flux ; but,
blessed be God ! their distempers gave way to proper remedies.

CONTENTS.

Editor's Preface, iii

History of the Dividing Line, 1

Appendix, 04

A Journey to the Land of Eden, 103

A Progress to the Mines, 123

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